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ETTER XXXVII.--Richmond-Strawberry Hill-Horace
45 -XXXVIII.- Are the English an intelligent people--Dif
fusion of learning—Variety of writers-Tra-
Mary's College-Happiness of early life, 55 -XXXIX.-To John D.-Smithfield Reform Meeting
Hunt—the Ragged Orator-Singular politi-
66 -XL.Bathm-Smollett's satirical observationem
York Springs—Pump Room-King's Bath
73 -XLI.-Concourse at London Fashionable season
the QueenConduct of Courtiers-Threat-
80 -XLII.Gothic Structures-Westminster Abbey
George JI.'s Funeral_Tower of London-
86 -XLIII. Seduction Public women of London-The Magdalen,
98 -XLIV._Manners of Sovereigns Instances of their
enormities--Court Cringing-Immorality of
106 ces of the British Government,
LETTER XLV.-A Day in London--Street population-Shop
keepers—Dinner Parties—Evening PartyNight-Tea Gardens--Cellars-Drunkards -Robberies Suicide-Beggars,
114 -XLVI.--Periodical works-North American Review
The King and the President of the United
134 -XLVIII.--High and Low Classes Happiness of the
French Peasantry_Bartholomew Fair
Death no preventive of Crimes-London
151 --L.-Women-their Influence on Society-Paral.
lel between English and French LadiesSocietyOld Maids and Gossips—Drums and Routs Love Marriages,
159 -LI.-The Theatre-Eulogy of the Drama-Rise
and Progress of the English Stage-Fluctua-
Edina! Scotia's darling seat!
Edinburgh, November 9, 1818. On my first entering this city, I was struck with the remarkable contrast between the Old and New Town. The old part of Edinburgh appears to be “blasted with antiquity"-whereas the New Town is really elegant—the houses are all regular, and many of them magnificent; the streets are spacious and extremely well paved, and the public squares would not disparage any city in the world. When I walk in the deep valley of the North Loch, in a dark night, my imagination sometimes transports me into those gloomy forests described in the Arabian Tales, and the lofty edifices at a distance, give me the idea of those fairy enchanted palaces, which spring up before the
benighted traveller, and invite him to satisfy his hunger and curiosity.
Edinburgh is a city of palaces. The natural grandeur of her situation has excited a kindred enthusiasm in her artists; the spirit of improvement is abroad, and calls forth the productions of architecture and sculpture: the romantic edifices of the old town, and the open and airy splendour of the new, associate with the magnificent scenery of the environs, and make “ Auld Reekie” the wonder of Europe.
Previous to 1763, a lake separated the New from the Old Town of Edinburgh. In that year, the North Loch was drained, and the mud removed. At present it has the appear. ance of a valley, in which there are a few scattered buildings. A mound and a bridge communicate between the Old and New Town, and stretch over the Loch. The coup-d'ail from the bridge, in a fine starry evening is ex. tremely magnificent. The depth and darkness of the valley prevent you from seeing the houses and other objects in the Loch, and you discern nothing but the lights which glimmer in the windows. You fancy that a real lake floats before you, and that her “mirror blue" reflects the starry host with which the firmament is spangled.
The amazing height of the houses in the Old Town of Edinburgh,* attracted my observation, as soon as I commenced my walks :hrough the city. Many of them are 13 stories high, not to mention the ground floor! In à cloudy day (that is, almost every day!) the tops of the houses appear at a distance to be confounded with the firmament, and the clouds are seen rolling over their roofs. At night, the view of these elevated buildings, when the numberless windows are illuminated, is extremely beautiful.
*"The extraordinary height of the houses was marked by lights, which, glimmering irregularly along their front, ascended so high among the attics, that they seemed at length to twinkle in the middle sky." Guy Mannering.
Opposite to High street, in which these high houses are situated, and on the other side of the Loch, is Princes street, which is the emporium of fashion and elegance. The buildings are all new, constructed of a beautiful gray stone, and arranged with the utmost symmetry. The shops are not inferior to the most splendid magazines of fashion in Bond street, and the hotels are the dearest and the most elegant in Scotland. This long street presents a delightful prospect when illuminated with
gas at night. The extensive range of lighted | candles, and the brilliant effect of the gas, with
the rich and vivid colours in the druggists' windows, produce one of the most magnificent prospects that I ever beheld, and give an idea of "th' immortal lights that live along the sky.”
I had not been long in the “ Athens of the North," as Edinburgh is gratuitously termed, before I was made sensible of a certain Pres. byterian stiffness in the manners of its inhabitants. I was immediately struck with the fu