within 4 leagues of Paris, whose garden is excellent, the groves strangely thick, the walkes very longe, and extreamely coole in the hottest weather. There is a piece of perspective of a portall, rarely done, and water works without number: the house is little, but neat, there is a pretty garden. with a fountaine in it, out of one of the great windows which stands upon pillars. I have seen the Duke of Orleans house at St. Cloud, finely situated upon the riuer, and looking toward Paris; the grots, water works, statues, garden house, and groves, would take up too much roome to discribe. I have seen the King's house at St. Germains, about 5 lieus from Paris: the prospect, the two galleries, the three cloisters, one aboue an other, upon the side of the hill, supported with uast pillars, are most remarkable there. The president of Paris his house at Maison, the finest country house I haue seen yet, about 5 leagues from Paris; there is a multipliing glasse chamber in it, round, in the middle of which you see your self a great many times. Here is a vast rich bed, stair case, the gates all of carued steell, a long court, orange trees with out number. The last Sunday being Whitsunday here, I went to Nostre Dame, where I saw the Archbishop of Paris and all the seruis; hee had red gloues on, and upon the fore finger of his right hand a ring with the greatest Agmarine I ever saw. The Sorbonne is noble; but the Jesuists church in Rüe St. Anthoine doth not give place to this; and that of Vall de Grace, not yet finished, built by the queen mother, will goe beyond them both. The church of Nostre Dame is 10 paces broader than St. Paule's at London, and yet I dooe not reckon the chappells on each side. I have seen the ceremony of making of a nun. Two English gentlewomen took their habit a fortnight since, in the monastery of St. Augustin de Sion, a convent lately built by the now Abbesse of it. The church for the nuns Carmelites, Nostre Dame de Champs, in Faubourg St. Jacques, is the best adorned with painting, guilding and pictures of any in Paris. Sr, I have already seen some pretty rarities in apotheacary's closets, and will not loose the opportunity of seeing more. I continue to set downe in my book what I meet with remarkable every day. I long for Morillon's com ing, to bee informed in many things. I hope hee will bee here with in this week. On Whit Tuesday I went to Mount Caluarie, a hill about 2 leagues from Paris, upon the top of which live two hermits. They will not be seen or spoken to, but I went into their little chappells. This hill is made to resemble the true Mount Caluary, and here are three huge crosses where on our Sauiour and the theeues are crucified; there are litle chappells also about it, in every of which some part of our Sauiours passion is described. Here was one Sr William Meredith who, haueing a great desire to be cured of his deafnesse, a physitian ordered him to be anointed, I suppose in order to saliuation, the effect of which was, that after his head was light, and [he] talk'd wildly for some space, he died. The English here often fight; I see their wounds dress'd sometimes. I cannot goe for Orleans till the garden be past. I hope the pope's legate will not make his entrance till then neither; so as I may see Fountainbleau at that time that hee comes thither. Your obediant Sonne, Paris, [about 9th of June, 1664.] EDWARD BROWNE. From Mr. Browne's Journal it appears, that about this time he received from his father some directions as to his future proceedings which were in the highest degree unpalatable to him, and may even be imagined to have caused or aggravated a severe attack of illness, which lasted him till about the date of the next letter. Some extracts follow, which may serve to fill up the interval, not without interest. [MS. SLOAN. 1906.] June 6, Vendredy. I received a letter from my father, in which hee gave mee notice of returning, and told hee could not spare mee any longer then Michaelmas, which put mee VOL I. F into dolefull dumps and spoild all the fine chymæras and geographicall ideas that I had formed in my braine of seeing Spaine, Italy, Germany, and I cannot tell how many countreys and people; this letter quite spoil'd all the high conceits of my travailes, yet I could hardly beat out of my braines the desire of seeing Italy. I walk'd, to divert my thoughts, with a Poictovin lad into the little garden of St. Jean de Lateran, and afterwards into Fauxbourg St. Germain. I heard of Dr. Napper that Sir William Meredith was dead; hee was under cure for his deafnesse, the physitian thought fit to salivate him by anointing, which proved, it seems, his extreame unction. June 13. I received a letter from my father, in which my brother Tom drew the picture of a monstrous Tartar which was reported to bee taken by Count Serini. June 18, Mecredy. I still found my selfe ill, yet the desire I had of seeing the garden made mee get up betimes; the weather was so bad as the professor was forc'd to set under a great acacia tree and name all the plants hee did intend to teach, and to showe them afterward. I found my selfe very ill, not able to stirre downe. About six of the clock I sent for a chirurgeon and was let blood, I went to bed and continued ill. Juin 27, Vendredy. I received a letter from my father which ordered mee to goe as soon as I could to Montpelier. I received one the post before about the same. This being Friday I had an aumuliet for my dinner, which though not so good, perhaps, for one in my condition, yet with good eldre vinagre I got it downe; being somewhat weary of ptisane I sent for limons and made my selfe some limonade. Dr. Downes and Mr. Abdy came to see mee. Juillet 11, Vendredy. I was much in the same condition as the day before. I received another letter from my father, wherein he bids mee make ready and take my journy as soon as possible I could for Montpellier; hee gave mee leave also to goe into Provence to Marseilles, but alas I am so weake at present as I cannot travail downe stayres. Juillet 30, Mecredy. As I was standing in Bouillet's shop, in comes Dr. Patin: Bouillet told him whose son I was; hee saluted mee very kindly, asked mee many things concerning my father, whom hee knew onely as author of Religio Medici, discoursed with mee very lovingly, and told mee hee would write to my father. Mr. Tristan came to see mee, but I was at Roberval's lecture; afterwards Mr. Dicas, hee and I supp'd at the Chapeau Rouge, the first supper I have eat since I was ill. Aoust 6, Mecredy. Pere Macbree, a Jesuist, came to invite us to a tragedy at the Jesuist's college. I had a thesis given mee dedicated to the king of England, which was sus tained by Fitz Patrick, the Sunday following, the embassadeur of England being there present at the disporte. I now am well enough I thank [God] to dine and sup with the rest of our pension. Wee pay thirty solz a day, besides our lodgings, which are in prizes according as they are in goodnesse. Mardy, Aoust 12. I received a letter from my father, with directions how to order my selfe as to my health, to purge if need required. SIR, Mr. Edward Browne to his Father. [MS. SLOAN. 1868.] Yesterday the legate * entred Paris with a great deal of splendour, first all the religious of Paris passed by, two by two, in such order as the archbishop of Paris, Hardouin Perefix, had appointed them. After them, some part of the gard, then diuers coches, more of the gard, hors and foot, the companys with their banners before them, their gownes veluet-hats and gold hat bands; the president of Paris, as at the lord mayors show in London; more of the gard in red coats, after them were led the legats mules for carriage, forty in number, very large ones with their rich couerings and feathers; diuers noblemen's pages on horseback; twenty of the legats pages on horseback; diuers noblemen and gentlemen with very rich habits and foot cloath like our noblemen, • Cardinal Chigi, Cardinal Patron, the Pope's nephew.-Note by Sir T. B. when the king came from the tower; then the kettle drums after; under a canopy rode the legate, upon a white mule, betwixt the Prince of Condy and Duke of Anquien, in a red habit and legats hats; then followed about thirty bishops and archbishops, then more of the gard. Such a number of coaches, and a thronge of people, as I found it no easy matter to get home. Paris, Aug. 10, 1664. E. B. SIR, Mr. Edward Browne to his Father. [MS. SLOAN. 1868.] I have seen the aqueduct at Arcueil which you writ me of in one of your letters; it is a noble one, but not ancient, being built but by our queen mother's mother. Here lodgeth at our pension, at present, one Mr. Sitden. I think I have heard you speake of him. Hee hath been at Morocco, in Turkey, and in the East Indies. I saw lately Mazarine's house, which for statuas and pictures goes beyond any thing I could have expected to have seen in France. The library is a uery long one, far the best in Paris, but esteemed by the French for the brauest in the world. If I goe to morrow I shall have no English company, which considering the benefit of being forced to speak French, I count no inconuenience. I dare not uenture a ten dayes journey, though in a carosse, to Lyons, but choose rather to creep up this riuer of Seine, and so strik ouer land to some towne upon the Sosne, from whence I may passe as far as I please downe that and the Rosne. I shall desire your blessing, and with my duty rest Your obediant Sonne, Paris, [the end of Aug. 1664.] ED. BROWNE. 8 Boarding house. |