THE LADIES' REPOSITORY. AUGUST, 1860. SOUVENIRS DE VOYAGE. BY C. G. COMEGYS, M. D. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. our former article we noticed the objects of ́interest in the nave and north and south transepts. Our stand-point was in front of the high altar, where a larger scope of the "glorious Gothic scene" is brought within the view than from any other. Now we turn eastward and pass the great screen that separates the east end of the nave, usually called the apsis, from the transept, and walking completely around the aisle or ambulatory, we pass on the right some eight or nine chapels dedicated to St. Paul, St. John the Baptist, St. Edmund, St. Nicholas, and others; while on our left, embraced within our circuit and distinctly separated from all the rest by the lofty pillars and intervening screens and tombs, is the large area of the ancient chapel and shrine of Edward the Confessor, who was buried here in 1066. When it is remembered that Westminster was for centuries a place of worship according to the rites of the Roman Catholic Church, it is easily understood why so many small chapels are found there. In them, under that service, would assemble for prayer those who sought aid from either of the dead saints to whom these several chapels had been consecrated. The names of the shrines have been preserved, but religious services are no longer held in them; they are now filled with tombs. It is a thoughtful, serious walk around that aisle which separates St. Edward's chapel from those already mentioned. The hushed stillness; the dusky light; the effigies of the dead; the work of ages; the centuries of repose; the memorials of an ancient and still living worship; the illumination of history-all combine to exclude the present and wrap us in the shadowy past. Kings, queens, princes, nobles, warriors, priests, philos VOL. XX-29 ophers, noble women and notable children are on every side. Uncover these tombs and there they still lie, in the funeral wrappings and ornaments as palpable as when ages gone by in solemn pomp and with all the grandeur of imposing ceremonies they were laid in their last resting-place. History tells us of their deeds in battles at home and abroad, under the walls of Jerusalem and Nazareth, centuries before even Columbus had sailed for our new world. While yet London was confined within her old walls; while yet an embowered avenue stretched its grateful shade along the shining river from this ancient suburb to the capital; while yet the Roman empire maintained in its Byzantine seat much of its old prestige and warlike pomp, these relics of kings and great men were here laid down in sorrow and in sighing with earnest prayers, and mournful chants, and muffled music, and waving ban ners. The first chapel on our right, as we enter, is that of St. Benedict: in it is the tomb of Archbishop Langham, who was monk, prior, and abbot of the Abbey, afterward made primate and chancellor of the realm, nuncio of the Pope, etc.; he was buried here in 1376, with a prayer "that he might be granted the joys of heaven for Christ's sake." This seems old; but just on the left is a monument to Sebert, king of East Saxons, who died in July, 606. It was he who first built a church near the site of the Abbey. Passing on from chapel to chapel, we see a crowd of tombs; but we can only notice those which are of historic interest. Here is a tomb of an old-and famous, too-Lord John Russell, buried in 1584; it is remarkable for its five epitaphs, written by his wife in Latin, Greek, and English. She was very learned, esteemed the Sappho of her age, and an excellent poet. Near this is the tomb of Mary, Countess of Stafford, wife to the unfortu nate Count who was beheaded during the reign of Charles II. Another Archbishop, de Waldeby, standard-bearer at Agincourt! The gallant warrior lies with closed eyes and hands clasped as if death found him in the attitude of prayer. You feel as if, "After life's fitful fever, he sleeps well;" while of Watt you feel a dread that he might straighten his gigantic figure from its stooping posture and lift the chapel's roof! Close at hand is the monument of a noble lady, Frances, Countess of Sussex, who by her last will founded a divinity Chair in Cambridge University. Her good work still lives. ST. EDWARD'S CHAPEL His who attended the Black Prince in his French war, was buried here in 1397; also the tomb of another old abbot, buried in 1258. In the next chapel lies Sir Humphrey Stanley, knighted by Henry VII, for his gallant conduct on Bosworth field. The next is an elegant tomb erected by the great Lord Burleigh to his wife, who says, among other things, that she was well versed in the sacred writers, chiefly the Greek." When she died she appropriated much of her wealth to founding scholarships in the universities and perpetual charities for the poor of Romford and Chesnut; so that, though dead, her good works still exist and are a blessing, though three hundred years have passed away. What a noble work! Close to this is a tall pyramid to commemorate a noble infant, overlaid by its nurse! Places must have been easily obtained in those days. Many famous ladies are entombed about this spot; among others, Katherine Valois, wife of Henry V, and Mary Beaumont, mother of the celebrated Duke of Buckingham, of James I's reign. In the chapel of St. Paul we have a colossal statue of James Watt, the inventor of the steam-engine. The inscription is written by Lord Brougham, and is worthy of being transcribed: "Not to perpetuate a name which must endure while the peaceful arts flourish, but to show that mankind have learned to honor those who best deserve their gratitude, the king, his ministers, and many of the nobles and commoners of the realm raised this monument to James Watt, who, directing the force of an original genius, early exercised in philosophic research, to the improvement of the steam-engine, enlarged the resources of his country, increased the power of man, and rose to an eminent place among the most illustrious followers of science, and the real benefactors of the world. Born at Greenock, His full-length figure is of gilt Scotland, 1736: died at Heathfield, in Staffordshire, 1819." As much as Watt deserves this brass. The chantry or little chapel of the disIt is extremely testimonial for the incalculable value of the distinguished Henry V comes next. covery, yet how inharmonious is his effigy with magnificent. As the Prince of Wales, he was the nature of the place! He is represented seat- wild and ungovernable, and has formed, with Faled on a pedestal, stooping forward, compasses in staff and others, the staple of one or two of hand, forming designs. Is there no repose in the Shakespeare's plays; but as king, he played the grave? Must our idea continue to be that of man, gained the battle of Agincourt, conquered toil? When the celebrated Fernel was once en- all the north of France, and died at the early age treated by his friends to slacken his labors and of thirty-four, in Vincennes, near Paris. With spare his life, his noble reply was, "Destiny re- great solemnity his body was brought here and interred. His saddle, helmet, and shield, said to serves for us repose enough." have been worn by him at Agincourt, are in the chantry above the tomb. As remarked formerly, these monuments of men, as in the most active toil, are a modern innovation, and are wholly incongruous with the sentiment of the Abbey and with the tombs of the medevial and later periods. What a contrast does Watt's tomb make to the old Gothic one beside it, erected over the remains of Henry V's Now let us enter the Confessor's chapel. tomb and shrine occupy the center. It was built by Henry III in 1269, and was then the glory of England, covered as it was with ornaments and precious stones and golden figures. At one time the jewels and valuables were pledged by Henry in an emergency for nearly £13,000. But it has long since been stripped of its wealthy adornments, and is no longer regarded as a holy spot. In the remote period of its erection, it was visited by multitudes from all parts of the realm, and even distant lands, who came to make their devotions at the altar of the pious and sainted king. On the south side of the shrine lies the body of his Queen Editha, who was "commended for her beauty, learning, prudent economy, gentle manners, and inimitable skill in needle work, having wrought with her own hands the king's state robes." Near this lies Matilda, wife of Henry I; died May 1, 1118. On the north side is the ancient and splendid tomb of Henry III, who rebuilt the Abbey; he was buried here in 1272. The workmanship is admirable: the panels are polished porphyry, bordered by mosaic work of gold and scarlet. The next is another Gothic tomb erected over Edward III's Queen Philippa. Her name will be forever embalmed in the hearts of the good for her success in saving from the wrath of her husband the miserable citizens of Calais, when that ans. city capitulated. She was interred in 1369. Richard II and his Queen have tombs close by. The canopy of wood is remarkable for a curious painting on which the image of the blessed Virgin and the infant Savior are still visible. The tomb of the great Edward I is also here. It is plain and rough built of five slabs of marble, and has an air of savage grandeur when compared with the more elaborate ones about it. He was buried here in 1307. His tomb was opened in 1774 at the request of the Society of AntiquariAfter the long interval of nearly five hundred years, “his body was found perfect, having on two robes, one of gold and silver tissue, the other of crimson velvet; a scepter in each hand five feet long; a crown on his head and many jewels; he measured six feet two inches." Edward III's tomb occupies the space between two pillars. It is in Gothic style and very elaborate. His full-length figure reposes on the upper slab. Standing beside the Confessor's tomb is another object of extraordinary interest, being nothing less than the Coronation chair in which every reigning sovereign has been crowned, from Edward I down to Queen Victoria, a period of almost six hundred years; he was crowned in 1273. As ancient as is this chair, it is as nothing compared with the celebrated crowning stone placed beneath its seat, on which all the kings of Scotland had been crowned from the year 330. It was captured by Edward I, at Scone, in 1296, and brought by him to London and placed in the Abbey. It is rough-looking sandstone twentysix inches long, seventeen wide, and ten thick. Its legendary antiquity is enormous; for it is said to be the stone on which Jacob laid his head in the desert; that was afterward in possession of the king of Athens, who sent it to Spain, thence it was carried to Ireland, and was transported to Scotland by Fergus, the first king of that country. However this all may be, it is certainly of great antiquity, and by carrying it off Edward inflicted the greatest outrage possible on the feelings and hopes of the Scotch; for to it they by superstitious reverence attached all their ideas of national independence. It is said formerly to have borne a Latin inscription, which, rendered in verse, said: "Except old saws do fail, And wizard wits be blind, Every effort was made by treaty and otherwise to recover it, and finally out of their despair grow a hope that a Scot must be king wherever the stone was retained; which was at last verified by James I seating himself on the old stone of Scone and being crowned king of England. One may long pause here and contemplate this the oaken chair of state-how many and how varied in character, the sovereigns who have received in that chair the ensigns of English royalty; the Edwards, the Richards, the Henrys, the masculine-minded Elizabeth, the bigoted Mary, the effeminate James, the profligate Charles, William and Mary, the Georges, and last, Victoria. There it stands and has stood for centuries, guarded, as it were, by the dead monarchs who surround it. HENRY VII'S CHAPEL. Lastly, we come to this gorgeous royal mausoleum. It is entered from the apsis by steps of gray marble under a stately portico. Henry built it for his own tomb and those who should follow him in the royal line, and nearly all the sovereigns subsequently are here interred down to George III, who built a vault for himself and successors at Windsor. It was completed about the year 1500. Its length is 104 feet, breadth 70 feet, and hight 61 feet. Like a cathedral, it has its nave and side aisles, and its high altar, at which Henry VII intended to have perpetual masses chanted for the repose of his soul. A solemn twilight fills the apsis, whence we pass through the elaborate gates of brass into what seems suddenly to become a blaze of light and decoration. Only an architect, with poetic powers of description, can convey any idea of the rapturous pleasure which at first fills a beholder, into such a mass of exquisite forms is the stony pile wrought. The very genius of the Gothic art must have possessed the soul of the great, but unknown, architect. The walls, the arches, the roof all of stone, but so elaborately chiseled, so poised in their positions, that it seems, in the words of Irving, to be like fairy tracery or cobweb work. Arch springs above arch, supporting the solid stone roof of groined arches, and pendants dropping like joiner work from above-the stone seeming to have lost its property of gravity. That ceiling of stone is a marvel; you can not believe your eyes; you resist the assertions of the guide. Solid stone! but O, what tracery, what fret-work! with such wonderful ornate minuteness and airy grace is it achieved! Though tuns in weight, you no more fear to walk beneath it than if it were an Alençon lace awning. You wonder that the light does not break through it; it surely is transparent. The picture is before me now, that vista of springing arches, gorgeouslywrought pendants, and mullioned windows. I shall never see its like again. It was truly a magnificent conception, and only a great mind could have so liberally endowed not only the art |