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worthy captain's; '80 I would rather go scarcely yet expired in the colleges of quite at liberty than under any obli. Spain; and all his moveable library congation,

sisted in a book of devotions to Our “ So scrupulous a conscience,” said Lady, deposited in one of his pockets, Don Diego, " were fitter, for a monk and balanced by a collection of the than for a soldier: but no matter; we works of Garcilaso, at that time the are already acquainted.”

great amatory poet of Spain, which he They reached Antequera that night; carried in the other :- and although love and in a few days, by forced marches, towards women was then in Spain a they arrived where the company was; kind of carnal worship, and devotion which, being now completed, was begin to the Virgin a sort of spiritual love, ning to march towards Carthagena, be. yet it does not appear that Our Lady ing billeted, together with four others, testified any of the jealousy which she in such places as lay most conveniently might naturally have felt by miracuon its route.

lously depriving him of his Garcilaso; Then Tomas had an opportunity of on the contrary, it came with him, on observing all the bustle and disorder at- his return, as entire, though not in quite tendant on the marching of troops in so good condition, as the Horas de Nuesgeneral, and in particular of Spanish tra Senora. troops at that day, the regularity of They arrived at Carthagena sooner than whose discipline at such times was any they wished; for in living on the route thing but exemplary. He remarked the they found great freedom and variety ; authoritative airs of the commissaries, and something new and agreeable was the unaccommodating temper of some of constantly occurring. There they emthe officers, the anxiety of the quarter- barked in four Neapolitan galleys; and masters, and the bustle and calculation here again Tomas Rodaja remarked the of the paymasters; the complaints of the strange life which was led in those mapeople, the insolence of the recruits, the rine tenements; in which, for the greater quarrels with the innkeepers, the solici- part of the time, the passengers were tations for more than the necessary bag- annoyed by the vermin, robbed by the gage, and finally the seemingly unavoid galley-slaves, provoked by the sailors, able necessity, on such occasions, of all pilfered by the mice, and fatigued by the those evils which he felt himself so much motion of the vessel. He was terrified inclined to deplore.

at the violent winds and storms, especiTomas had laid aside the habit of a ally in the gulf of Lyons, where they student, and dressed himself “as gay as experienced two; of which one carried a parrot,” an expression which, applied them to Corsica, and the other back to the dress of the most foppish English- to Toulon. At length, wet with brine, man of the present day, would scarcely and exhausted for want of sleep, their seem appropriate, but which is perfectly blue sunken eyes plainly shewing the applicable to the variety of brilliant co- harassing vigils they had undergone, they lours which a Spanish exquisite might reached the beautiful city of Genoa, then, and may still display in his own then independent, flourishing, and luxucountry, so different from the dingy rious; and landed on its sheltered Manuniformity of our English costumes, drace. After going to church, as was better adapted indeed to bear the action the custom, to return thanks to heaven of our variable atmosphere. Together for their escape from the dangers of the with his modest garb of a student, To- sea, the captain and all his companions mas endeavoured, with pretty good suce repaired to a tavern; where all their past cess, to disrobe himself of the bashful- dangers were soon forgotten in the preness of a collegian new to the world, sent enjoyment. and instead of

Our good Tomas beheld with admiraNot a word speaking more than there was need, tion the fair hair of the Genoese women, and

the gay and easy deportment of the men,

and the great beauty of the city, shining Riding as still and coy as doth a maid, When newly spoused, sitting at the board,

within the rocks that enclose it, like he strove to look “ as fresh as is the diamonds set in gold. The next day all month of May,” and to bear him like

the companies landed; they were destin

ed for Piedmont; but Tomas chose to A lover and a lusty bachelor.

go from Genoa by land to Rome, and He had abandoned

to Naples, intending to return by VeAristotle and his philosophy,

nice and Loretto to Milan and Piedwhose long and triumphant reign has mont, where Don Diego de Valdivia said that he would find him, unless, as station of the seven churches, confessed was rumoured, they should in the mean myself to a penitentiary, kissed his time be ordered to Flanders.

holiness's toe, and loaded myself with In two days, Tomas took leave of the beads and agnus deis,* I determined to captain, to proceed on his Italian tour, a go to Naples : and, the weather being brief account of which we shall give in then unsettled, and injurious to all who his own words, extracted from a letter at that season travelled to or from Rome which, on the completion of it, he ad- by land, I went to Naples by sea. dressed to an untravelled fellow-student “ The admiration which Rome had exat Salamanca, in fulfilment of a promise cited in me, was, I think, exceeded by which he had made in taking leave of him that which I felt at the sight of Naples, for his travels. In this letter he gave the which in my opinion, as in that of all general result of his observations, leaving who have seen it, is the finest city in the details for verbal communication. Europe, or indeed in the world. From In order to the better understanding thence I went to Sicily, and visited both of the matter and manner of this Palermo and Messina. I admired extract, the reader should bear in mind Palermo for its situation and its beauty, that the writer of the epistle was a Messina for its port, and the whole Spaniard, a catholic, and that he wrote island for its abundance, on account of in the latter part of the sixteenth century, which it is truly and properly called the at' a period not long subsequent to the granary of Italy. conquest of Mexico.

“ I returned by Naples to Rome; and “ In three days (says he) after parting from thence, went to Our Lady of with my friend the captain, I arrived at Loretto, in whose holy temple I could Florence, having first seen the small but not see the walls; for they were all pretty town of Lucca, in which Spaniards covered with crutches, shrouds, chains, are more cordially received and better fetters, manacles, wigs, waxen busts, treated than in any other part of Italy. pictures, and figures, manifesting the I was extremely pleased with Florence, numerous mercies which many had reas well for its agreeable situation as for ceived from the hands of God through its cleanliness, its sumptuous buildings, the intercession of his divine mother, who its pleasant river, and its quiet streets. this her holy image is pleased to exalt

« I stayed there four days; after which and sanction by a multitude of miracles, I departed for Rome, the queen of cities in return for the devotion of those who and mistress of the world. I visited her thus adorn the interior of her mansion. temples, adored her relics, admired her I saw the very chanıber in which was degrandeur, and, as from the detached livered the greatest and most important claws of the lion we estimate the size and of all embassies that were ever witnessed power of the animal to which they be- by all the heavens, by all the angels, and longed, so did I estimate those of Rome all that abide in the everlasting abodes. by her broken marbles and statues, her “ From thence, embarking at Ancona, ruined arches and dilapidated baths, her I went to Venice; a city which, if magnificent porticos and vast amphi. Columbus had never been born, we should theatres,—by her famous and sacred not have known its like. Thanks to river, whose banks are ever full, and ever heaven, and to the great Hernando Cortes, sanctified by the numberless remains of who conquered the great city of Mexico, martyrs there interred,- by her bridges, we have that which may in some degree which seem to gaze in wonder at one

compete with it.

These two famous another, and by her streets, whose very cities seem to float upon the water; that names seem to give them dominion over of Europe being the admiration of the those of all other cities in the world—as the old world, and that of America the wonAppian, the Flaminian, the Julian way. der of the new. Its riches appeared to I then contemplated with like admiration me immense, its government wise, its the division of her different mounts,- situation impregnable, its abundance the Celian, the Quirinal, the Vatican, and the other four, whose names make mani. Agnus Deis. These were oval or circular fest the greatness and majesty of Rome. cakes of white wax, moulded and blessed by I also remarked the dignity of the con

the Pope, with the dust of holy relics, in the

presence and with the assistance of some of his clave, the majesty of the supreme pon- cardinals and prelates,-imprinted on one side tiff, and the concourse and variety of with the figure of a Jamb and the inscription people and nations. Each of these things Agnus Dei, and on the other with the figure I attentively observed and carefully

of Christ, of Our Lady, or of some saint, with

the appropriate inscription, and the name of the noted. Then, having performed the pontif by whom they were manufactured.


great, its neighbourhood pleasant ; in most of all, perhaps, of a pawnbroker's short it seemed altogether worthy of the shop; for be it remembered, that besides great reputation which it has acquired the crutches, shrouds, fetters, wigs, busts, throughout the world, and which is &c. above specified, which hung round additionally supported by its famous the walls, the image of Our Lady was arsenal, in which are built its galleys and loaded with chains of gold, with rings other vessels without number. The and jewels, emeralds, pearls, and rubies, pleasures and pastimes of the island of and the angels of solid gold which were Calypso seemed to be realized in those placed on every side, were enriched with which I found at Venice; indeed they the most valuable diamonds; and the were such that I confess they almost holy jewellers did not escape the suspicion made me forget the original plan of my of substituting for some of these ornajourney.

ments, less costly brilliants,--for the “ However, having stayed there a disinterested purpose, no doubt, of more month, I proceeded by Ferrara, Parma, securely preserving the Virgin's regalia, and Placentia, to Milan, the workshop without at the same time diminishing of Vulcan, the hatred of France; a city “the splendour of Our Lady's brow" in magnificent in its grandeur and that of the eyes of the adoring multitude. its temple, and great in its astonishing To return, however, to our traveller ;abundance of all the necessaries and con- if he, like other votaries, made good use veniences of life. From thence I went of his Horas de Nuestra Senora at to Asti, in Piedmont, where I have Loretto, we must infer, from his own arrived the very day before Don Diego's account, that he did not altogether negregiment is to march for Flanders.”

lect his Garcilaso at Venice. How much of the catholic devotion At his return to Piedmont he was well which our friend Tomas seems to testify received by his friend the captain ; his in this epistle, was real and heartfelt, it letter to Salamanca seems to have been is not for us to determine; or whether written rather hastily in the evening of he really exulted in the consciousness the same day; and the next morning he that he was one of the numerous spiritual departed in company with Don Diego vassals of that church, whose dominion for Flanders; where he visited Antwerp, was far more firmly rooted in his native a city at that time scarcely less worthy of country than ever the temporal sway of admiration than those which he had seen in pagan Rome had been.

He might be Italy. He went to Ghent and to Brussels, then, or he might be tending to become, and saw that the whole country was one of the few who, even in those days, arming, in order to take the field the next and in the very strongholds of the dark despotism of papal Rome, made those Therefore, having now seen what he protestations in their hearts which, if had wished to see, he resolved to return whispered from their lips, or intimated to Salamanca, and finish his studies; by their pens, would have consigned them which he did without further delay; to the dungeons of the Inquisition. At though to the great sorrow of his comall events, the manner in which he speaks panion, who, at parting, requested that of the chapel of Our Lady of Loretto he would send him intelligence of his and its furniture, does not indicate any arrival, his health, and fortune. He great degree of reverence for that one of promised so to do; and then returned the numberless gross impositions of the through France to Spain, without seeing Roman church.

Paris, on account of the warlike prepaOne cannot help remarking upon the rations. At length he reached Salamanca, oddness of the internal decorations of this where he was well received by his friends; chapel. It has been observed of Henry and with the means which they afforded the Seventh's chapel, by persons of him, he prosecuted his studies until he architectural taste, that the stalls of the obtained the degree of Licentiate, or knights of the bath, reared against the Doctor of Laws. pillars and arches of the nave, forming

(Continued at page 154). screens that separate the aisles from the body of the edifice, diminish the airiness and interrupt the harmony of the plan: A gentleman “unaccustomed to public but the interior of Our Lady's chapel of speaking,” becoming embarrassed, whisLoretto, whatever architectural beauty it pered to his friend, “Quick, quick! may otherwise possess, must have pre- give me -- give me a word !” Upon sented the appearance of a very lumber- which the other replied, “ Yes, yes ; room, a repository for marine stores, or, what word do you want ?"



SKETCHES OF TURKEY. examining his goods, the bearded trader BY N. P. WILLIS.

creeps through the hole leading to his

kennel of a dormitory in the rear, washes The grand bazaar of Constantinople, and its himself and returns to his counter, where, infinite variety of wonders-silent shop: spreading his sacred carpet in the dia black-eyed stranger-ihe Bezestein-iberection of Mecca, he goes through his strong hold of orientalism-picture of a Dra. prayers and prostrations, perfectly ungoman—the kibaub-shop; a dinner without conscious of your presence, or that of the knives, forks, or chairs-cistern of the thousand and one columns.

passing crowd. No vocation interferes

with his religious duty. Five times a Bring all the shops of London together day, if he were running from the plague, around St. Paul's, remove their fronts, the Mussulman would find time for pile up all their goods on shelves facing prayers. the street, cover the whole with a roof, The Frank purchaser attracts a great and metamorphose your trim clerks into deal of curiosity. As he points to an bearded, turbaned, and solemn old Mus- embroidered handkerchief, or

a rich sulmen, smooth Jews, and calpacked and shawl, or a pair of gold-worked slippers, rosy Armenians, and you will have some- Turkish ladies of the first rank, gatherthing like the grand bazaar of Constan- ing their yashmacks securely over their tinople. You can scarcely get an idea faces, stop close to his side, not minding of it, without having been there. It is a if they push him a little to get nearer city under cover. You walk all day, and the desired article. Feeling not the day after day, from one street to another, least timidity, except for their faces, winding and turning, and trudging up these true children of Eve examine the hill and down, and never go out of doors. goods in barter, watch the stranger's The roof is as high as those of our three- countenance, and if he takes off his story houses; and the dim light so favour- glove, or pulls out his purse, take it up able to shop-keepers, comes struggling and look at it, without ever saying "by down through skylights, never cleaned your leave.” Their curiosity often exexcept by the rains of heaven.

tends to your dress, and they put out Strolling through the bazaar is an their little henna-stained fingers and endless amusement. It is slow work, pass them over the sleeve of your coat for the streets are as crowded as a with a gurgling expression of admiration church-aisle after service : and, pushed at its fineness ; or if you have rings or a aside one moment by a bevy of Turkish watch-guard, they lift your hand or pull ladies, shuffling along in their yellow out your watch with no kind of scruple. slippers, muffled to the eyes; the next by I have met with several instances of a fat slave carrying a child ; again by a this in the course of my rambles. But kervas armed to the teeth, and clearing a day or two ago I found myself rather the way for some coming dignitary, you more than usual a subject of curiosity. find your only policy is to draw in your I was alone in the street of embroidered elbows, and suffer the motley crowd to handkerchiefs (every minute article has shove you about at their pleasure. its peculiar bazaar), and wishing to look

Each shop in this world of traffic may at some of uncommon beauty, I called be two yards wide. The owner sits cross- one of the many Jews always near a legged on the broad counter below, the stranger to turn a penny by interpreting height of a chair from the ground, and for him, and was soon up to the elbows hands you all you want without stirring in goods that would tempt a female angel from his seat. One broad bench or out of Paradise. As I was selecting one counter runs the length of the street, and for a purchase, a woman plumped down the different shops are only divided by upon the seat beside me, and fixed her the slight partition of the shelves. The great, black, unwinking eyes upon my purchaser seats himself on the counter, face, while an Abyssinian slave and to be out of the way of the crowd, and another white woman, both apparently the shopman spreads out his goods on her dependents, stood respectfully at her his knees, never condescending to open back. A small torquoise ring (the his lips except to tell you the price. If favourite colour in Turkey) first athe exclaims “ bono," or " calo," (the only tracted her attention. She took up my word a real Turk ever knows of another hand, and turned it over in her soft, language), he is stared at by his neigh- fat fingers, and dropped it again with. bours as a man would be in Cornbill out saying a word. I looked at my who should break out with an Italian interpreter, but he seemed to think it bravura. Ten to one, while you are nothing extraordinary, and I went on

with my bargain. Presently my fino indifference these old cross-legs attend to eyed friend pulled me by the sleeve, and the wishes of a Christian. I was idling as I leaned toward her, rubbed her fore- round one day with an English traveller, finger very quickly over my cheek, look- whom I had known in Italy, when a ing at me intently all the while. I was Persian robe of singular beauty, hanga little disturbed with the lady's fami- ing on one of the stalls, arrested my liarity, and asked my Jew what she companion's attention. He had with wanted. I found that my rubicund him his Turkish dragoman, and, as the complexion was something uncommon old merchant was smoking away and among these dark-skinned orientals, and looking right at us, we pointed to the she wished to satisfy herself that I was dress over his head, and the interpreter not painted! I concluded my purchase, asked to see it. The Mussulman smoked and putting the parcel into my pocket, calmly on, taking no more notice of us did my prettiest at an oriental salaam, than of the white clouds curling through but to my mortification, the lady only his beard. He might have sat for gathered up her yashmack, and looked Michael Angelo's Moses. Thin, pale, surprised out of her great eyes at my calm, and of a statue-like repose of counfreedom. My Constantinople friends tenance and posture, with a large old. inform me that I am to lay no “unction fashioned turban, and a curling beard, to my soul” from her notice, such liberties half mingled with gray, his neck bare, being not at all particular. The husband and his fine bust enveloped in the flowexacts from his half-dozen wives only ing and bright-coloured drapery of the the concealment of their faces, and they east-I had never seen a more majestic have no other idea of impropriety in figure. He evidently did not wish to public.

have any thing to do with us. At last In the centre of the bazaar, is what is I took out my snuff-box, and addressing called the bezestion. You descend into him with “effendi!" the Turkish title it from four directions by massive gates, of courtesy, laid my hand on my breast, which are shut, and all persons excluded, and offered him a pinch. Tobacco in except between seven and twelve of the this unaccustomed shape is a luxury forenoon. This is the core of Constan- here, and the amber mouthpiece emerged tinople—the soul and citadel of oriental- from his moustache, and putting his ism. It is devoted to the sale of arms three fingers into my box, he said and to costly articles only. The roof is pekkhe !" the Turkish ejaculation of loftier and the light more dim than in approval. He then made room for us the outer bazaars, and the merchants on his carpet, and with a cloth measure who occupy its stalls, are old and of took the robe from its nail, and spread it established credit. Here are subjects before us. My friend bought it unfor the pencil! If you can take your hesitatingly for a dressing-gown, and we eye from those Damascus sabres, with spent an hour in looking at shawls, of their jewelled hilts and costly scabbards, prices perfectly startling, arms, chalices or from those gemmed daggers and guns for incense, spotless amber for pipes, inlaid with silver and gold, cast a glance pearls, bracelets of the time of Sultan along that dim avenue and see what a Selim, and an endless variety of “things range there is of glorious old graybeards, rich and rare.” The closing of the with their snowy turbans! These are bezestein gates interrupted our agreeable the Turks of the old regime, before employment, and our old friend gave us Sultan Mahmoud disfigured himself with the parting salaam very cordially for a a coat like a “dog of a christian," and Turk. I have been there frequently broke in upon the customs of the orient. since, and never pass without offering These are your opium-eaters, who smoke my snuff-box, and taking a whiff or two even in their sleep, and would not touch from his pipe, which I cannot refuse, wine if it were handed them by houris ! though it is not out of his mouth, except These are your fatalists, who would when offered to a friend, from sunrise scarce take the trouble to get out of the till midnight. way of a lion, and who are as certain of One of the regular “lions” of Conthe miracle of Mahomet's coffin as of the stantinople is a kibaub shop, or Turkish length of the pipe, or of the quality of restaurant. In a ramble with our consul, the tabacco of Shiraz !

the other day, in search of the newly, I have spent many an hour in the discovered cistern of a' “ thousand and bezestein, steeping my fancy in its rich one columns,” we found ourselves, at the orientalism, and sometimes trying to hungry hour of twelve, opposite a make a purchase for myself or others. famous shop near the slave-market. I It is curious to see with what perfect was rather staggered at the first glance.

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