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boots, and set out with me, last Saturday
evening, for Versailles and so at eight
o'clock, passing through a road speckled with vines, and villas, and hares, and partridges, we arrive at the great avenue, flanked on either hand with a double row of trees about half a mile long, and with the palace itself to terminate the view; facing which, on each side of you, is placed a semicircle of very handsome buildings, which form the stables. These we will not enter into, because you know we are no jockies. Well! and is this the great front of Versailles? What a huge heap of littleness! it is composed, as it were, of three courts, all open to the eye at once, and gradually diminishing till you come to the royal apartments, which on this side present but half a dozen windows and a baleony. This last is all that can be called a front, for the rest is only great wings. The hue of all this mass is black, dirty red, and yellow; the first proceeding from stone changed by age; the second, from a mixture of brick; and the last, from a profusion of tarnished gilding. You cannot see a more disagreeable toutensemble; and, to finish the matter, it is all stuck over in many places with small busts of a tawny hue between every two windows.
We pass through this to go into the garden, and here the case is indeed altered; nothing can be vaster and more magnificent than the back front; before it a very spacious terrace spreads itself, adorned with two large basins; these are bordered and lined (as most of the others) with white marble, with handsome statues of bronze reclined on their edges. From hence you descend a huge flight of steps into a semi-circle formed by woods, that are cut all round into niches, which are filled with beautiful copies of all the famous antique statues in white marble. Just in the midst is the basin of Latona; she and her children are standing on the top of a rock in the middle, on the sides of which are the peasants, some half, some totally changed into frogs, all which throw out water at her in great plenty. From this place runs on the great alley, which brings you into a complete round, where is th<\ basin of Apollo, the biggest in the gardens. He is rising in his car out of the water, surrounded by nymphs and tritons, all in bronze, and finely executed; and these, as they play, raise a perfect storm about him: beyond this is the great canal, a prodigious long piece of water, that terminates the whole. All this you have sit one coup d'ceil in entering the garden, which is truly great. I cannot say as much of the general taste of the place; every thing you heboid savours too much of art; all is forced, all is constrained about you; statues and vases sowed every where without distinction; sugarloaves and minced-pies of yew; scrawlwork of box, and little squirting jetsd'eau, besides a great sameness in the walks, cannot help striking one at first sight, not to mention the silliest of labyrinths, and all .5Ssop's fables in water; since these were designed in usumDelphini only. Here then we walk by moon light, and hear the ladies and the nightingales sing. Next morning, being Whitsunday, make ready to go to the Installation of nine knights du Saint Esprit, Cambis is one:* high mass celebrated with music, great crowd, much incense, king, queen, dauphin, mesdames, cardinals, and court! knights arrayed by his majesty; reverences before the altar, not bows, but curtsies; stiff hams; much titterina among the ladies; trumpets, kettle-drums, ind fifes. My dear West, I am vastly delighted with Trianon, all of us with Chantilly; if you would know why,you must have patience, for I can bold my pen no longer, except to tell you that 1 saw Britannicus last night; all the characters, particularly Agrippina and Nero, done to perfection; to-morrow Phaedra and Hippolytus. We are making you a little bundle of petite pieces; there is nothing in them, but they are acting at present; there are two Crebillon's Letters, and Amusemens sur le langage des Betes, said to be of one Bougeant, a Jesuit; they are both esteemed, and lately come out. This day se'nuight we go to Rheims.
TO HIS MOTHER.
Rheims, June 21, N. S. 17S».
We have now been settled almost three weeks in this city, which is more considerable upon account of its size and antiquity, than from the number of its inhabitants, or any advantages of commerce. There is little in it worth a stranger's curiosity, besides the cathedral church, which is a vast Gothic building of a surprising beauty and lightness, all covered over with a profusion of little statues, and other ornaments. It is here the kings of France are crowned by the archbishop of Rheims, who is the first peer, and the primate of the kingdom. The holy vessel made use of on that occasion, which contains the oil, is kept in the church of St. Nicasius hard by, and is believed to have been brought by an angel from heaven at the coronation of Clovis, the first Christian king. The streets in general have but a melancholy aspect, the houses all old; the public walks run along the side of a great moat under the ramparts, where one hears a continual croaking of frogs; the country round about is one great plain covered with vines, which at this time of the year afford no very pleasing prospect, as being not above a foot high. What pleasures the place denies to the sight, it makes up to the palate; since you have nothing to drink but the best champaigne in the world, and all sorts of provisions equally good. As to other pleasures, there is not that freedom of conversation among the people of fashion here, that one sees in other parts of France; for though they are not very numerous in this place, and consequently musilive a good deal together, yet they never come to any great familiarity wiro one another. As my