CONTENTS.

British Shans or Ngio-The upper defile of the Meh Ping-A

moonlight scene - Entangling demons at the frontier-A

Chinese fort-Loi Pa-Yat Pa-Yai-Mapping the country-Dr

M'Gilvary's sermon-Reach Kiang Dow-Petroleum at Kiang

Dow and Muang Fang,

CHAPTER XXVII.

Kiang Dow-Invasions of Burmese Shans-Precipitous hills-

Muang Hang under the Burmese - Viang Chai― Catch a

Kamait-Entering monastic life-Inquisitive people-Reach

Muang Ngai-View up the river-A Shan play-Visit the

governor-Leave Muang Ngai-Hot springs-Loi Pa-Yat Pa-

Yai—A storm in the hills-Drainage flowing in three directions

-Underground streams-Difficult pass-Sinkage of ground-

A sacred cave-Legend of Tum Tap Tow-Visit the cave-An

unpleasant night—Large game-Threatened with beheading—

Legend of the hare-lip-Building a house-Chinese forts-

Trichinosis-Reach Muang Fang,

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Muang Fang-Deserted for 200 years-Proclamation resettling the

province Population-Settlements of Ngio ousted by Siamese

-Land yielding 250-fold-Ruined cities-320 ruined temples

-Purloining images-Mr Archer's report-Method of forming

new settlements-Separation of races in the cities-Colonies of

refugees and captives - Chinese Shans as labourers - City

sacked by the Burmese-Governor and wife drown themselves

-Cost of carriage-Dr Tiger the hunter-Bargain for a dagger

-Sworn brothers-Cambodian and Karen ceremonies-The

augury of fowl-bones-Passing merit by cotton-threads-First

hair-cutting in Siam-Lao marriage-Visit the ruined cities-

Fallen idols - Putting fugitives in chains-A deer-hunt-

Sketching the hills-Visit to Ban Meh Hang-Out of provi-

sions - Fever and dysentery-Mahout attacked by vicious

elephant-Spreading cattle-disease,

CHAPTER XXIX.

Leave Muang Fang-My comrades hunting-Those boys again:

panic-stricken fisherwomen-Water-parting between the Meh

Ping and Meh Kong-Railway from Zimmé to Muang Fang

and Kiang Hsen-A freak of nature-Tree eight feet broad-

A deer-lick-Bed without dinner-Illness of missionaries-

xxix

315

334

347

Sitting on a snake-Head or tail, query-Emigrants carrying

spinning-wheels-Cross the Meh Ngat-A beautiful plain-

Viang Pow-Visit from the governor-Ngio raids-Lolo and

Karen villages-Effect of monopolies-People deserting Muang

Fang-Officials collecting taxes for monopolists-No gambling

and opium dens-Cost of carriage-Export of rice-One son-in-

law in one house-Trade routes-Leave Viang Pow-The

defile of the Meh Ngat-Accident to aneroid—A fine view-

An aristocratic governor-Population-Wild tea-Light taxa-

tion-Free from vices-Put up with a Shan convert-Women

well treated amongst the Shans-Cutch-trees-Reach Zimmé,. 360

CHAPTER XXX.

Offering to the good influences-The spirit in sleep-The ceremony

of Tum Kwun-Spirit-worship of Ping Shans-Arrangements

for leaving-Visit Siamese prince-A Gatling gun as an orna-

ment-Railway routes-Number of fighting-men-Dismiss Loo-

galay-Pretty pagodas - Boxing and wrestling-The bridge

breaks-Presents from Chow Oo-boon-A lover's lute-Lace

prized-Dr Cushing's views on the Ping Shans-Connection

with Siam-Taxation-Corvée labour-Serfs-Slaves purchased

from Red Karens-Debt slaves in chains-Religion-Field for

missionaries,

373

CHAPTER XXXI.

-

Apathy of Siamese officials-Proposal to survey passes between

Siam and Burinah - Mr Webster's offer. Preparations for

boat-journey to Bangkok - Boats and crew - Kindness of

missionaries-Leave Zimmé-Number of villages-Shan em-

broideries-Buying petticoats-An evening bath-Shameless

women-Preparing for the rapids-More bargains-Scram-

bling for beads-Enter the defile-Magnificent scenery-Geo-

logical changes-Underground rivers-Subsidence and periods.

of unrest-An earthquake belt-Limestone cliffs-A Chinese

smuggler-Roped down the rapids - Picturesque cliffs-

Precipices a mile high-A waterfall-Three pagodas-Offer-

ings to demons-Spirits of the jungle-Forming spirit-clans-

Alluring travellers to death-Lascivious spirits - M'Leod's

route-Shooting dangerous rapids-Kamook lumber-men-

The pillar-rock-Pass to Ban Meh Pik-Sketching the gover-

nor-Path to Maulmain-Searching for rubies-A sambhur

deer-Leave the defiles-Entrance of the Meh Wung-Paths

for the railway-Silver-mines-Reach Raheng,

390

The former governor in league with dacoits-Trouble on the

frontier-Dacoiting boats - Advice to a missionary — The

governor of Petchaburi—A petition to the king-Robbing the

people-Misgovernment of a Siamese province-Missionary's

opinion of the king-Extraordinary floods in Siam - The

seasons-Flood of 1878 villages washed away-Flood of 1831

-Entering the palace in boats - Boat-journeys from and to

Bangkok,.

406

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Growth of foreign competition for trade-Need for new markets

-India and China as markets-Necessity for cheap communi-

cations-Action taken by Mr Colquhoun and myself-probable

effects of the Indo-Siam-China railway-Indo-Burmese con-

nection in course of construction-Reasons for choosing Maul-

main as terminus for connection with China-Siamese section

now under survey Effects of connecting Maulmain with

Siamese railway-Cost of connection-Prospective advantages-

Caravan - routes from Maulmain to Raheng Estimate for

branch to our frontier-Approximate estimate for continuing

the branch to Raheng-Comparison between proposed British

and Russian railways-British interests in Siam-Mr Satow's

letter-Sir Arthur Phayre's opinion on our duty to protect

Siam-Connection of Burmah and Siam by railway the best

form of support-Cannot allow Siam to be absorbed by France

-Effect of such absorption upon Burmah - Opinions of Sir

Charles Bernard-Cannot afford to hand over our markets to

France Opinion of Sir Henry Yule-Paying prospects of the

branch to the frontier-Sir Richard Temple's opinion-The

most promising of all future railway lines-Effect of proposed

lines-Sir Charles Bernard's project - Comparison between

Maulmain and Bhamo routes-Takaw route-Kun Lôn ferry

routes The Maulmain route or nothing-Importance of the

question, .

414

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Leave Raheng-Islands - Zimmé Shans in Raheng-Siamese

women - Misleading strangers-"Sow" and "rat" polite

terms-Reach Kamphang Pet-Saluted with stones-Found

dead-Burmese-Visit the governor-The flood-Population-

-

A female interpreter-Leave Kamphang Pet-Cultivation-

Reach Pak Nam Po-Toungthoo pedlars-Navigation on the

Meh Nam-Loop - line to Ootaradit - Gambling - house A

Frenchified monk - Sketching a bearded Siamese Size of

the delta - Journey to Bangkok - A long street of villages

-Reach Bangkok,

435

CHAPTER XXXV.

-

Mr Scott-Visit to the legation-Adepts at intrigue — Mr Ala-

baster on Siam- Everything taxed - The revenue - Corvée

labour-Impoverishing the people-The old school dying out—

The iron-road a magician's wand-King Stork-Putting a stop

to cattle-theft-A piquant story-Cattle-lifting by officials—

A lingering lawsuit-Extorting confessions-Torture at the

police-courts-The last day's agony-Unlawful imprisonment

-Inside a prison-Immorality of princes-Fit companions-

Brothels in Bangkok-Selling relations-Chanting prayers—

Flogging women-The biggest liars and thieves-Slavery in

Bangkok,

445

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Mr Colquhoun's arrival-Prince Devan-Character of the king-

Visit to Prince Devan-Memorandum on the railways-Grant

required for further exploration-Interview with the king-

Terms required by syndicates-Siam's credit-The connection

with Burmah-Excursion into Eastern Siam-Nai Sin-An

official of 2500 marks-Poo Bah-Golden opportunities

Trumpery fortifications-After the storm-The Bang Pa Kong

river-Legend of the Kow Din-An infatuated monk-Chinese

in Siam — Estimate of population - Chinese immigrants and

their descendants Marking the people - Unscrupulous

Government-masters-Their little games-A vast plain-Little

cultivation-Lovely scenery-Tramway to the gold-mines-

Return to Bangkok-Dr M'Gilvary's opinion upon the pro-

jected railways-One of the grand works of the century,

-

APPENDIX.

BURMAH - SIAM - CHINA RAILWAY.-RESOLUTIONS OF CHAMBERS

OF COMMERCE,

INDEX,

454

464

. 475

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

PORTOW,

AN EXECUTION,

VIEW LOOKING WEST DOWN PASS AT 10.53 A.M. 14TH FEB.,

LOI PWE SEEN OVER A SPUR AT 9.57 A.M. 15TH FEB.,
MEH LAIK VALLEY AND GORGE AT 1.3 P.M. 15TH FEB.,

6

33

44

45

47

VIEW ACROSS THE MEH HTO AND MEH LAIK VALLEYS AT 10.54

A.M. 15TH FEB.,

53

A YAK,

57

A SIAMESE KING,

VIEW TO THE SOUTH FROM A HILLOCK BEHIND MUANG HAUT,.
VIEW FROM NEAR BAN HSOPE KYEM,

LOI HOO-A SOO-A WITH LOI PAH KUNG IN THE BACKGROUND,
VIEW FROM THE TOP OF LOI NOI AT 8 A.M. 23D FEB.,

སྐྱབ༄ཐཤྩ

59

64

72

77

78

VIEW OF LOI MOK AND THE HEAD OF THE MEH WUNG AT 4.42

P.M. 10TH MARCH,

THE LITTLE ELEPHANT'S FUN,

BAMBOO SHOULDER-TRESTLE,

VIEW OF LOI POO-AY AT 1.3 P.M. 14TH MARCH,.