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LEGEND OF MUANG NŎNG.

was built on the outskirts, remained. He had asked the people for some of the fish, but had been refused. The name Phya In, used by the Zimmé Shans for Indra, seems to be a compromise between the Phya Then of the Burmese Shans (which is doubtless derived from the Tien of the

skirted a hillock, called Loi Ngome, on our right, and soon afterwards came to the village and fields of Hsan Hsoom Hpee. Many low hillocks were now seen at distances varying from 800 feet to four miles to our right. A short distance from Kiang Hsen I halted near an irrigation-canal, 100 feet wide and 6 feet deep, to visit the Koo Tow, a celebrated leaning pagoda, which, unlike any other pagoda that I have seen in Indo-China, has been built in the Chinese style. The figures of the Tay-wa-boot or male angels, which are

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executed in bas-relief in excellent plaster, are Burmese in design. The pagoda is circular, and about 75 feet high; the upper 60 feet rising in three storeys, like a drawn-out telescope. Each storey is divided into two by an ornamental band, above which are Tay-wa-boot with hands upraised and palms pressed together in adoration, and below which are similar Tay-wa-boot with hands pressed together in front of their chest. Before the pagoda a Burmese image of Gaudama has been erected, which was still in good condition with the exception of the loss of a hand and an arm.

On remounting the elephant, a deer sprang up from the long grass close by and crossed the track. Six minutes later I crossed the Meh Khum, or golden river, 80 feet broad and 9 feet deep, with 3 feet of water; and threequarters of a mile from the pagoda, entered the fortifications which enclose the west central gate of Kiang Hsen. The gate opens on to one of the main streets of the city, along which we passed amidst numerous ruins of religious buildings, and a few clusters of recently built houses, to the sala or rest-house, which we occupied during our stay. The sala is situated 1274 feet to the west of the Meh Kong, or Cambodia river, 393 miles from Hlineboay, 1097 feet above the sea, and only 89 feet higher than Zimmé.

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE MEH KONG AT KIANG HSEN-RINGWORM-EXTENSIVE RUINS-DESCRIPTION OF CITY-IMPORTANCE OF SITUATION FOR TRADE-CHINESE SETTLERS FROM SSUCHUAN, KWEICHAU, AND YUNNAN- PROJECTED RAILWAY-SURVEYS BEING MADE BY KING OF SIAM-EXCURSIONS FROM KIANG HSEN-TEAK-FORESTS-ROBBING AN IMAGE-LEGEND OF KIANG MEE-ANG-ANCIENT CITIES-COMPARISON BETWEEN ANCIENT BRITONS AND SHANS-ANCIENT PRINCIPALITY OF TSEN-KIANG HUNG -DESTRUCTION OF KIANG HSEN-CARRIED AWAY CAPTIVES-TREACHERY IN WAR-POPULATION OF ZIMMÉ CHIEFLY SLAVES-KIANG HSEN REOCCUPIED IN 1881-RESETTLING IT-ACTION OF KING OF SIAMFRIENDLY FOOTING OF MISSIONARIES-VIEW ACROSS THE KIANG HSEN PLAIN-FLOODED COUNTRY-LEAVE FOR KIANG HAI-A WHITE ELEPHANT-BRANCHES AS SUNSHADES-ELEPHANT FLIES-EMIGRANTS FROM LAPOON-BEAUTIFUL SCENERY-MR ARCHER'S DESCRIPTION OF TRAFFIC ALONG THE ROUTE.

WHILST the elephants were being unloaded and the servants were preparing breakfast, the Chow Phya, or district officer of Kiang Hai, who had been deputed to accompany us to Kiang Hsen, went to the Chow Hluang's to inform him of our arrival, and we strolled to the bank of the Meh Kong, the Cambodia river of the French, to see the view.

We found ourselves a few miles above the entrance of the Meh Khoke, which is here separated from the Meh Khum by a long hillock, called Loi Chan (the steep hill). Just below the mouth of the Meh Khoke, the Meh Kong commences its great eastern bend, which stretches through two degrees of latitude to Luang Prabang.

The distance between Kiang Hsen and Luang Prabang by boat is about 200 miles, and the journey was performed by Dr M'Gilvary in six days. The first day's journey took

THE MEH KONG AT KIANG HSEN.

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him to Kiang Khong, a city of two or three thousand inhabitants, and the capital of a district under Muang Nan. In describing the river between Kiang Khong and Luang Prabang he says: "The river is a mile wide in places, and where the channel is narrowed it rushes along with frightful rapidity. Mountains rise from either bank to the height of three or four thousand feet. The river fills the bottom of a long winding valley, and as we glided swiftly down it there seemed to move by us the panorama of two halferect, ever-changing landscapes of woodland verdure and blossom. Only as we neared the city did we see rough and craggy mountain-peaks and barren towering precipices."

The scenery from the bank of the river at Kiang Hsen was magnificent. The great river flowing in its deep channel, partially restricted by sandbanks, was a mile wide, 21 feet below its banks, and unfordable. To the east, about 40 miles distant, a mass of mountains about 30 miles in length, and perhaps forming part of the long winding valley spoken of by Dr M'Gilvary, showed boldly against the sky; to the north-east, nearer the river, rose the precipitous hills we had previously seen from Pang Mau Pong; and between the mountains and the river, the country appeared to be a vast forest - covered plain, in which low hills were visible at 4 and 20 miles' distance.

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CHAN

View of Loi Chan from Kiang Hsen.

To the south, beyond Laun Ten (the island of the embankment), a tree-clad island, containing the ruins of many religious buildings, which is said to have been. the site of an extensive city, and to have been joined on to

the mainland, is the mouth of the Meh Khoke; and beyond it, on the same bank of the river, Loi Meh Yap closes in the view, and separates the valley of the Meh Khoke from that of the Meh Yap.

On our return to the sala, the Chow Phya of Kiang Hai informed us that the Chow Hluang was away on a fishing excursion, and that the Chow Hona, the second chief, was absent at Zimmé. The son of the Chow Hluang and the chief Chow Phya of Kiang Hsen had returned with him to pay us a visit, and see how they might add to our comfort. They said that doubtless the chief would return by the day after the morrow, as although some distance away, he would certainly hasten back as soon as the messengers they had already despatched reached him.

The son of the chief was sorry his father was not there to welcome us, and still more so that, owing to smallpox raging in his own family, he was himself unable to offer us hospitality. He thought we would be more comfortable in the court-house, which was a new and capacious building; but on visiting it with him, we found it in an unfinished condition, and only partially floored, so determined to remain in our smaller but more cosy quarters.

Seeing the Chow Phya covered with ringworm, I gave him some Goa powder, and told him how to apply it. I afterwards learnt that it worked a perfect cure, for the Chow Phya showed his gratitude by writing to Dr M'Gilvary, and forwarding me a copy of the history of Kiang Hsen, which I had expressed a wish to obtain. The work,