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issued previous to the Crowning of King George the Second, after having detailed the differences of the various mantles already described, thus proceeds concerning the other parts of the Peeresses dresses :
“The Surcoats, or Kirtles, to be all of crimson velvet, close-bodied, and clasped before, edged or bordered with Minever pure, two inches broad, and scolloped down the sides from below the girdle, and sloped away into a train proportionable to the length of the Robe or Mantle for each degree; * viz. about a third part thereof; the sleeve of the Surcoats also to be of crimson velvet, about five inches deep, scollopped at the bottom, edged with Minever pure, and fringed with gold or silver.
“The caps of their Coronets to be all of crimson velvet, turned up with Ermine, with a button and tassel of gold or silver on the top, suitable to the fringe of their sleeves.
“The Petticoats to be of cloth of silver, or any other white stuff, either laced or embroidered, according to each person's fancy.
“The Mantles to hang back, being fastened on each shoulder with cordons of silver or gold, suitable to their fringe, with tassels of the same hanging down on each side of the waist.
“The Surcoats, or Kirtles, to open before, that the Petticoats may appear.
It is common at Coronations for the Knights of the different English Orders, not being Peers, to wear their respective full-dress habits; but at the last Coronation, none of the Knights of the Garter being Commoners,
* The length of a train was regulated by the rank of the wearer ; thus, that of a Baroness might lay three feet on the ground, a Viscountess's might have one of a yard and a quarter, a Countess's was a yard and a half, a Marchioness's a yard and three quarters, and a Duchess's two yards.
they wore only the collar of the Order over their crimson velvet mantles. This Collar is of gold, and consists of twenty-five roses of red enamel, surrounded by blue garters, on which appear the motto of the Order in gold. Between each of the garters is a golden loveknot, with which they are connected. To the centre of the Collar is suspended the figure of St. George slaying the Dragon, which is also made of gold, enamelled in proper colours, and not unfrequently set with diamonds, or wholly composed of precious stones.
The Knights of the Bath, who walked in the foregoing Procession, wore the full-dress of their Order; which consisted of a surcoat of white satin, and over it a mantle of crimson satin lined with white, and tied at the neck with a cordon of crimson silk and gold, with gold tassels. On the left shoulder of this mantle was embroidered an eight-pointed silver star, having in the centre three Imperial Crowns of gold, with the motto, Tria Juncta in Uno, in letters of the same, on a crimson circle round them. They wore also hats of white silk, ornamented with a standing plume of Ostrich feathers of the same colour, buskins of white kid, gold spurs, and gold-hilted Swords, in white leather scabbards. The Collars of this Order were of gold, and were composed of nine Imperial Crowns, and eight roses, thistles, and shamrocks, properly enamelled, issuing from a Sceptre. The whole were linked together with seventeen gold knots, enamelled white. The badges which were suspended to these collars, consisted of an oval medal of gold, on which were a rose, thistle, and shamrock, issuing from a Sceptre, as before, encircled with the motto of the Order.
There were not, in the last Coronation, any Knights of the Thistle under the degree of Peers; and therefore only the Collar of the Order was worn by such Noblemen as were members of it. This Collar, like those already described, is of gold, formed into thistles and sprigs of rue, properly enamelled; to the centre of which is suspended the badge, which consists of the figure of St. Andrew, bearing before him the Cross of his Martyrdom; the whole enamelled on rays of gold.
The dresses of the Heraldic Officers added, also, considerable splendour to the other ceremonial costume These consisted of Tabards or Surcoats, on which his Majesty's Arms were richly embroidered. The word Tabard, which still signifies a gown in some parts of Germany and Belgium, here denotes a sort of sleeveless coat, with wings which fold over the arms; on every part of which garment the Royal Ensigns are depicted in their proper colours. Different materials are used for these dresses, according to the rank of the Officer by whom they are worn : as, those for the Kings of Arms, are made of velvet and cloth of gold, those for the Heralds of damask, and those for the Pursuivants of satin. They are all lined with crimson silk or taffeta, and fastened by ribands. The Kings and Heralds wear also Collars of S.S.* which are made of silver, gilded for the former, and plain for the latter, of these Officers. The collar itself consists of several S shaped ornaments linked together, and at the two centres are badges consisting of the rose, thistle, and shamrock, enamelled in their proper colours. A golden Collar somewhat similar to this, is worn by the Lords-Mayors of London, but in the latter a love-knot, and a red rose enclosing a white one, are set between every two S.S; and, on either side of the Jewel, at the breast, is a portcullis. This Jewel, or badge, consists of the City Arms and supporters, in enamel, set round with Diamonds.
* It is supposed that these Collars were first made in honour of St. Simplicius, a Senator, who suffered martyrdo under Dioclesian, in the year 287. They were originally used by a society, which bore the name of the Saint, although they were formed very differently from the above description.
The Kings of Arms are also entitled to wear Crowns, which consist of a plain circle of gold, on which are raised sixteen upright leaves, eight of them being shorter than the other. Round the circle are the words, “MISERERE MEI Deus;" the Coronet is turned up with Ermine, and surmounted by a crimson velvet cap, with a tuft and tassel of gold.
LIST OF BOOKS, &c.
of their late Majesties.
The History of the Coronation of the Most High, Most Mighty,
and Most Excellent Monarch, James II, and of his Royal Consort, Queen Mary, by Francis Sandford, Esq. Lancaster Herald
of Arms. London, 1687. Folio.
Kings and Queens of England; viz. King James II. and his
line. London, 1760. Quarto.
day appointed for their Majesties' Coronation, in pursuance of
an Order in Council. London, 1761. Folio. The Form of the Proceeding to the Royal Coronation of their Most Excellent Majesties King George III. and Queen CHAR
From Westminster-Hall, to the Collegiate Church of St. Peter, at Westminster. On Tuesday, the 22d day of Sep
tember, 1761. London, 1761. Folio. The Form and Order of the Service that is to be performed, and of
the Ceremonies that are to be observed in the Coronation of their Majesties King GEORGE III. and Queen CHARLOTTE, in the Abbey Church of St. Peter, Westminster. On Tuesday, the
22d of September, 1761. London, 1761. Quarto.
Most Gracious Sovereign George III. and his Royal Consort
don, 1761. Quarto.
Queen CHARLOTTE, in the Abbey Church of Westminster, September 22, 1761. By Robert, Lord Bishop of Sarum. Published
by His Majesty's Special Command. London, 1761. Quarto. The Court and City Register, for the Years 1760—1762, London.
Register for 1760—1761. London. Octavo.