The Pasha-His Youthful Career-The Wahabees-Formation of his Army-Greek War-Breach with the Porte-Successes and Com- PREFACE. IMMUTABILITY is the most striking characteristic of the East from the ancient strife of Cain and Abel, to the present struggle between the Crescent and the Cross, its people remain in their habits of thought and action less changed than the countries they inhabit. The fertile Vale of Siddim has become the coffin of the Dead Sea, and the barriers of the Nile have rolled down from Æthiopia to the Delta; but the patriarch still "sits at the door of his tent on the Plain of Mamré," and the Egyptian still cultivates his river-given soil in the manner practised by the subjects of the Pharaohs. Elsewhere, we can but dimly discern the actors and the scenery of the Elder World through the curtain of obscurity drawn over it by Time; but here, the Past is so faithfully reflected in the Present, that the drama of ancient life seems never interrupted. While we look upon the very scenes wherein Paradise was Lost and was Regainedwhere the Pyramids and Karnac rose, and still vindicate their early fame-we find that scenery still peopled by the Ishmaelite and the stranger still received by Sheikhs of Abraham's fashion, who feast him on the fare that was set before the Angels. This identity of the Present with the Past lends a solemnity to the former, and a vitality to the latter, that no other country can inspire; while the contrasted tumult and fever of European life, with the silence and repose of the East, resembles that which we experience in passing from the gay and turbulent thoroughfares of Naples to the desolate beauty of Pompeii. The transition strikes forcibly on the imagination, and invests Oriental travel with a peculiar charm. Nor is it only antiquity, piety, or scholastic lore that lends to the East so powerful an interest: the variety that strikes upon the senses-the delicious climate, scarcely obtained in our conservatories-the wild animals, only known to our menageries, and the wayside flowers, that rival our most choice exotics-all these are pleasant incidents in the pastoral mode of life. In the cities there is that appearance of something secret and suppressed, which stimulates curiosity and adventure-there is the mystery that envelopes woman—the romance of every-day life—the masquerading-looking population-politics and manners of the time of Moses, Saracen society, cloudless days, and Arabian nights. By such experiences, the traveller will probably find his perceptions excited, and his faculties developed; while his sympathies are expanded, and awakened "To all that is enjoyed where'er he goes, And all that is endured." The best of all this is, that he becomes, perhaps, more catholic-hearted; and the worst is, that perhaps he turns author, and finds a difficulty in accounting to his readers for assuming such a character: for we seem to have writers on the East sufficient in number, and of all descriptions; from the high-born lady to the hardy Burkhardtfrom the massive prose of Robinson, to the genial poetry of Milnes-from the calm researches of Wilkinson and Lane, to the brilliant sketches of Eōthen-from the scoffing scepticism of Volney, to the graceful piety of Lord Lindsay. The only apologies I have to offer for intruding on such company are these. Previously to visiting the East, I had made myself familiar with their works, notwithstanding which, I found much novelty, as well as interest, in my own personal experience; and I hoped to be fortunate enough to communicate some of that sense of interest, if not of novelty, to my readers. The information, too, to be found in Eastern writers is so various, and scattered over so wide a surface, that I thought a slight compendium of its more important or interesting points might prove acceptable to that extensive class who, in these hurried times, can only "read as they run." Moreover, our relations with the East have considerably altered within the last few years; Egypt is become our shortest, and, therefore, our only path to India; the Church of England is at length represented at Jerusalem; and the brave, industrious, and intelligent Tribes of the Lebanon have made overtures for our protection and our missionaries. I have not (intentionally) followed in the footsteps, or used the thoughts of any author; but I confess to have borrowed freely, in other respects, from as many as seemed suited to my purpose. I have pursued no settled plan of writing or classification, but have spoken of each matter as it seemed to suggest itself in the course of a sort of imaginary conversation with the reader. I am anxious to guard against the charge of presumption in adopting a title for my work, which might seem ostentatious when compared with its very humble pretensions. It suggested itself to me as being comprehensive of the Oriental races, as well as of their creeds; and, at the same time, so vague as not to pledge me to any particular line of dissertation. I should also, perhaps, apologize for using our old Oriental appellations, instead of those which the Arabic mode of pronunciation has now rendered customary. I scarcely fear, however, that the reader of the Arabian Nights will object to hear of Viziers, Sultans, Cairo and Damascus; instead of Wezeers, Sooltauns, Masr, and El Sham. Finally I have to apologize for apologizing at such a length, and will at once put myself en route with the reader who is kind enough to accompany me. Now, Travel! we are all thine own. Onward with the eager horses that bound forward at thy voice! Onward with thy gallant ship, that lies straining at her anchor! Onward! over the wide, deep, dashing sea, that owns thee for its master, to the boundless desert that soon shall be thy slave. LONDON, November, 1844. E. W. |