II. A BRIEF HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLANDS OF ARRAN.

THE three islands of Arran, lying in the western ocean, at the mouth of the bay of Galway, are stated by our annalists to be the remnants of a high barrier of land which the Atlantic burst over at an early period of the world.-Vide page 5, ante.-The late Mr. Kirwan, in his essay on the primitive state of the globe, says, "The bay of Galway appears to have been originally a granitic mountain, shattered and swallowed," during a great convulsion, which he supposes to bave taken place; and adds, "A vast mass of granite, called the Gregory, lately stood on one of the isles of Arran, 100 feet, at least, above the level of the sea. This was shattered by lightning in 1774." That these islands were inhabited subsequently, to what in reference to them may be called the adjacent main land, seems very probable. They were anciently overshadowed with wood, of which there are still very evident remains. This circumstance, combined with their retired situation and wild appearance, rendered them peculiarly well adapted for the celebration of the pagan rites of the early Irish. The immense cairns, stone monuments, or altars, circles, and other Druidic remains yet to be seen here, shew that these islands were formerly the resort of that famous order of Heathen priests.

On the invasion of Ireland by the Tutha de Danans, the Firbolgs, after the battle of Muireadh, filed to the isles of Arran, and the other isles round the coast, where they remained until they were expelled by the Cruithnigh, or Picts, after the provincial division of the island.—Leabhar Gabhala. -A. D. 250, these islands were governed by the tribe of Eogan More, king of north Munster, and afterwards became the residence of St. Iber, one of the four bishops who, in A. D. 412, (before the arrival of St. Patrick,) were sent to preach the Christian faith in Ireland. In the same century, Engus, king of Cashel, granted the great island of Arran to St. Endeus, who built ten monasteries and thirteen churches on it, the principal of which was afterwards, from him, called Kill-Enda. The island itself was soon after distinguished by the name of Ara na Naoimh, or Ara of the Saints; and so great was the number of holy men and hermits here interred, that the writer of the Life of St. Kieran declares they were known only to the ALMIGHTY Gor alone.-In qua insula multitudo virorum sanctorum manet, et innumerabiles sancti, omnibus incogniti nisi solo Deo omnipotenti, ibi jacent.—In 546, it was agreed between the kings of Munster and Connaught that the islands of Arran were to acknowledge no superior, or pay chief rent to any but their native princes, in whose possession they remained for many ages afterwards. By the annals of Innisfallen it appears that the great island was destroyed, in 1081, by the Danes.-Arainn na Navimh do losgadh le Lochlannaibh.-Cambrensis, who wrote in the century after this period. gravely informs us, that Here human bodies are neither buried, nor do they putrefy, but, lying on the surface, and exposed to the open air, they remain uncorrupted; and men may thus behold and recognise their grandfathers and great-grandfathers. Another thing remark able, is, that though all Ireland abounds with rats, this island is free from any, for should that reptile be brought thither, it either leapeth into the sea, or, being prevented, instantly dies!"-This, however, is but one of the numerous fables and falsehoods with which that vain topographer amused his Oxford auditory respecting Ireland.

By the ancient records of Galway it appears, that, from a remote period, the sept of Mac Tiege O'Brien, lords of these islands, were on terms of alliance and friendship with the inhabitants of the town.-Vide ante, pp. 52, 207.-This,

however, did not save them from being plundered and burned by Sir John D'Arcy, lord justice, who sailed round the western coast of Ireland, in the year 1334, with a fleet of fifty-six sail.—Clynne's Annals.—In 1485, a monastery for Franciscans was built in the great island; in which there was also founded a famous abbey of regular canons. In the sixteenth century the O'Briens were expelled from these islands by the O'Flaherties of Iar-Connaught; information of which outrage having been sent to queen Elizabeth, a commission issued, under which it was found, that they belonged to her majesty in right of her crown. She accordingly, by letterspatent, dated 13th January, 1587, (instead of restoring them to the ancient proprietors,) granted the entire to John Rawson, of Athlone, gentleman, and his heirs, on condition that he should retain constantly on the islands twenty foot-soldiers, of the English nation.-Rot. Pat. 31 Eliz.-On this occasion the corporation of Galway addressed the queen on behalf of the O'Brieus; but their appeal proved ineffectual. After this period, the property and inheritance of Arran became vested in Sir Robuck Lynch, of Galway: but the Clan Tieges still claimed them as their ancient patrimony; and, taking advantage of the troubles in 1641, with the assistance of Boetius Clanchy, the younger, (a gentleman of considerable property and influence in the county of Clare,) prepared to invade the islands; but their design was prevented by the timely interference of the marquis of Clanricarde, assisted by the earl of Thomond.-Clon. Mem. 71.

On the decline of the royal authority in Ireland, in 1651, the Marquis of Clanricarde resolved to fortify these islands as places of refuge in case of extremity. Accordingly, two hundred musketeers, with officers and a gunner, under the command of Sir Robert Lynch, were sent thither. -Vide ante, pa. 127, note.-The fort of Ardkyn, in the great island, was soon after repaired, and furnished with cannon, which enabled it to hold out against the parliamentary forces near a year after the surrender of Galway. In the beginning of December, 1650, the Irish, routed in every other quarter, landed seven hundred men here, by the help of boats, from Iar-Connaught and Innis- Bophin; but, on the 9th of January following, 1500 foot, with a battering-piece, were shipped in the bay of Galway to attack them, and, at the same time, 600 foot more marched from the town to Iar-Connaught, to be thence conveyed to their assistance, if necessary. On the 15th, the islands su rendered on the following "Articles, concluded between major Jaines Harrison and captain William Draper, on behalf of commissarygeneral Reynolds, commander in chief of the parliamentary forces in the isles of Arran, and captain John Blackwall and captain Brien Kelly, commissioners, appointed by colonel Oliver Synnot, commander of the fort of Ardkyn, for the surrender of the said fort.-1. It is concluded and agreed, that all the officers and soldiers, both belonging to sea and land, shall have quarters, as also all others, the clergymen, and all other persons within the fort.-2. That they shall have six weeks for their transportation into Spain, or any other place in amity with the state of England; and that hostages be given by colonel Synnot for the punctual performance of these articles.-3. That colonel Synnot shall deliver up the fort, with all necessaries of war, by three o'clock this instant, 15th January, 1652, before which time all officers and soldiers belonging to the said foot shall march, with drums beating, to the church near Ardkyn, and there lay down their arms.--4. That colonel Synnot and the captains, eight in number, shall have liberty to carry their swords; the other officers and soldiers to lay down their arms: that commissary Reynolds shall nominate four ocers of the fort hostages.-5. Th

colonel Synnot, with the rest of the officers and soldiers, and all other persons in the fort, shall, upon delivering their arms and delivering their hostages, be protected from the violence of the soldiers, and with the first conveniency be sent to the county of Galway; there to remain in quarters for six weeks, in which time they are to be transported, as aforesaid: provided that no person whatsoever, belonging to the fort of Ardkyn, and found guilty of murder, be included or comprised in these articles, or have any benefit thereby"--Orig. MS. The parliamentary forces, on taking possession of the fortifications, found seven large pieces of cannon, a considerable quantity of arms and ammunition; they also seized a French shallop of twenty-eight oars, and several large boats. The fort was soon after newly repaired, and a strong garrison stationed in it. In the mean time, Sir Robert Lynch, the former proprietor of the islands, was declared a forfeiting traitor. His right was assigned to Erasmus Smith, esq. one of the most considerable of the London adventurers in Ireland; and the interest of this gentleman having been purchased by Richard, earl of Arran, his title was afterwards confirmed by the act of settlement. On the surrender of Galway to king William's forces, in 1691, a garrison was sent to Arran, and a barrack was built, in which soldiers were stationed for many years. After several revolutions, the inheritance of the islands became vested in the Digby family, in whose possession they now remain.

The author regrets that he cannot here introduce a description of the natural productions and stupendous scenery of these interesting islands, the singular customs and simple manners of the natives, and an account of the ancient churches, stone crosses, rude monuments, and other remains of antiquity to be met with here by the curious. He must, therefore, for the present, be content with laying before the reader the following return concerning those islands,

NUMBER I.

Institutio Collegii S. Nicholai, Galvie, per Donatum O'Murry Archiepiscopum Tuamensis, anno Domini 1484. Ex originali penes auctorem.

DONATUS, miseratione divina Tuamensis Archiepiscopus, universis Christi fidelibus presentes litteras visuris vel audituris, salutem in Domino sempiternam. Inter cetera quidem onera que nostris humeris incumbunt, circa illa precisius ac specialius providere debeamus, per que divinus cultus temporibus nostris incipiat augeri, et populus Christianus nobis subjectus per alterationem status ecclesiarum, quibus per singulares parsonas antea deserviri a presbiteris collegialiter viventibus, in quorum medio [ Jinhabitari permisit, religiosis et devotis recipiat incrementum. Quapropter universitati vestre scire presentibus innotescimus, qualiter nos, attentè considerantes quod parochiani parochialis ecclesie Sancti Nicholai ville Galwye, modesti et morigerosi homines, inter silvestres ac montanos in ipsa villa firmiter murata, commorantes; eisdem moribus cum predictis montanis et silvestribus non utentes, propter impetrationes que super vicaria dicte ecclesie per vicarios in antea solite gubernari a prefate nationis hominibus, cotidie fuerunt in tantum vexatum, quod secundum decenciam et modum Anglicanum, quem tenent, et eorum predecessores soliti sunt tenere ab antiquo, officia audire divina, et ecclesiastica non possunt percipere sacramenta, et ab illis indoctis hominibus depredantur, perturbantur et interficiuntur, nonnullaque dampna ac incom

A

moda personarum et rerum sustinent, et majora sustineant, nisi celeri remedio eis succurratur, infuturum. Ad supplicationem ipsorum parochianorum, quorum quidam nonnullas terras et redditus ac edificia pro se suisque heredibus imperpetuam et puram elemosinam, ad infrascriptum nostrum intentum condonarunt; et quidam alii, si res ad effectum perducatur, donare intendunt ecclesiam ipsam parochialem, provida super hoc deliberatione prohabita, cum ipsa vicaria ac quarta nostra archiepiscopali, quam pro salute anime nostre, predecessorum ac successorum nostrorum, ad hoc perficiendum in puram et perpetuam elemosinam donavimus et presentibus donamus per tenorem, ac dimidia quarta quam servitores ipsius ecclesie ab abbate et monachis Collis Victoria, nostre diæcesi, Cisterciencium vero ordinis, quos dicte ecclesie rectoria tangit, pro servitio per longum tempus detinere consueverunt, ac vicaria parochialis ecclesie Sancti Jacobi de Baleynclaer, nostre Enachdunensis diæcesi, quam de consensu vicarii ejusdem ecclesie, pro sustentatione presbiterorum inibi vivere volentium, simili modo donavimus, et ipsi ecclesie ville Galwie, univimus, anneximus et incorporamus, ac servitiis Lynche et Blake, ac Sancte Marie aliisque terris, redditibus, per antefatos parochianos ad hoc donatis, et que in futurum donare velint, aliisque beneficiis que a nobis et apostolica sede predicta ecclesia obtinuerit, in collegiatam erigimus ecclesiam, et collegii privilegio ac libertatibus et immunitatibus collegialiter inibi viventes, de cetero uti volumus et gaudere, ordinantes et disponentes, quod dicta ecclesia, sic ut premittitur in collegiatam erecta, per octo presbiteros morigerosos, virtuosos et doctos homines,

et Anglicanum modum rite tenentes, regetur decetero et gubernetur, ac ipsi presbiteri per superiorem et prepositum, vel majorem et ballivos ac pares ville predicte, Guardiano collegii presententur, ac per ipsum, tanquam vicarii curam animarum gerentes, confirmentur, ipseque Guardianus ad presentationem predictorum superioris, sive majoris et parium, singulis annis removibilis, per ipsos vicarios instituatur, ac post institutionem hujusmodi factam, Guardianus ipse super omnes dictos vicarios ac parochianos potestatem et curam exerceat animarum. Datum Galwie XXVIII. die mensis Septembris, presentibus ibidem Willielmo Lynche, superiore ville de Galwy, Dominico Lynche et Johanne Skyret, ac multis aliis, sub nostri sigilli testimonio, anno domini 1484.

[The foregoing institution of the collegiate church of St. Nicholas, by the archbishop of Tuam, which was taken verbatim from the original, in the possession of the author, is almost entirely recited in the following bull of confirmation of Pope Innocent VIII. of which a translation is given.]

NUMBER II.

Bulla sivè Diploma Innocentii VIII. Guardianatum Galviensem constituens, seu potius jam constitutum, stabiliens, 1484.

Innocentius Episcopus, servus servorum Dei, ad perpetuam rei memoriam. Super gregem dominicum, nostræ divinitùs vigilantiæ creditum, vigilis speculatoris officium, prout nobis desuper conceditur, extendentes, ad ea libenter intendimus, per quæ divinus augetur cultus, & salus provenire speratur animarum & his quæ proptereà proinde emanasse comperimus, ut eò firmiùs illibata perdurent, quò fuerint majori robore solidata, libenter nostri adjicimus muniminis firmitatem. Sanè pro parte dilectorum filiorum universorum parochianorum parochialis ecclesiæ S. Nicolai ville Galvie Enachdunensis diæcesis nobis nuper exhibita petitio continebat, quod venerabilis frater noster Donatus (O'Murry, Canonicus Regularis S. Augustini) Archiepiscopus Tuamensis, qui ecclesiæ Enachdunensis, Tuamensi ecclesiæ perpetuò unitæ, præesse dignoscitur, olim attentè considerans parochianos dictæ ecclesiæ S. Nicolai modestos, & morigeratos homines esse, & in ipsa villa, muris, seù mænibus circumcinctâ, habitantes, eisdem moribus, quibus montani, & sylvestres homines illarum partium utebantur, non uti, ac propter impetrationes, quæ super vicaria dictæ ecclesiæ S. Nicolai per vicarios antehàc solitæ gubernari, à præfatis sylvestris, & montanæ nationis hominibus quotidiè fiebant, in tantùm

vexari, quod secundûm decentiam, ritum, & modum anglicanum, quem incolæ præfati, & eorum prædecessores servare ab antiquo soliti erant, officia divina audire, & ecclesiastica sacramenta percipere non poterant, & ab illis indoctis hominibus perturbabantur, nonnunquàm bonis spoliabantur, & interficiebantur, nonnullaque alia damna, & incommoda personarum, & rerum sustinere cogebantur, & majora, nisi eis celeri remedio succurreretur, in futurum perferre verisimiliter formidabant, providâ super hoc deliberatione præhabitâ, ad ipsorum parochianorum supplicationem, ecclesiam prædictam S. Nicolai in collegiatam et in illa collegium unius Custodis, & octo Presbyterorum ordinariâ auctoritate erexit, ac ordinavit, & pro illorum sustentatione fructus, redditus, & proventus prædictæ vicariæ, ac dimidiam quartam, quam servitores dictæ ecclesiæ S. Nicolai à dilectis filiis abbate, & conventu monasterii Collis Victoriæ, Cisterciensis ordinis, Tuamensis diæcesis, per longum tempus habere consueverant, nonnulla quoque bona, redditus, terras, decimas, jura, & servitia tunc expressa, per ipsum Archiepiscopum, & quosdam ex dictis parochianis, providè considerantes, quod præmissa ad decentem sustentationem quatuor ex dictis presbyteris vix sufficere poterant, ad hunc effectum dictæ ecclesiæ S. Nicolai donata, & oblata, ac quæ per aliquos ex eisdem parochianis donari contingeret in futurum mensæ capitulari dictæ ecclesiæ S. Nicolai applicavit, & appropriavit, ac ad eandem ecclesiam S. Nicolai pleno jure pertinere voluit, necnon vicariam parochialis ecclesiæ S. Jacobi de Balenclaer dicta Enachdunensis diæcesis de consensu vicarii ejusdem ecclesiæ S. Jacobi pro sustentatione custodis, & octo presbyterorum prædictorum, in ipsa ecclesia S. Nicolai vivere volentium, perpetuò univit, annexuit, & incorporavit ; & quod dicta ecclesia S. Nicolai, sicut præmittitur, in collegiatam erecta, non per unum vicarium, sed per dictos octo presbyteros, sivè vicarios, morigeratos, virtuosos, & doctos, & per unum Guardianum, sivè Custodem, Anglicanum ritum, & modum in divinorum celebratione rectè tenentes, de cætero regeretur, & gubernaretur; quodque ipsi presbyteri per superiorem præpositum, vel majorem, & ballivos, ac pares villæ prædictæ, præfato Guardiano, sivè Custodi dicti collegii præsentarentur, & per ipsum Guardianum, sivè Custodem, tanquam vicarii curam animarum in solidum agentes, confirmarentur, ipseque Guardianus, sivè Custos, ad præsentationem prædictorum superiorum, sivè majoris, & parium, singulis annis removibilis, & per ipsos vicarios institueretur, ac post institutionem hujusmodi factam, Guardianus ipse super omnes dictos vicarios, &

parochianos potestatem haberet, ac curam exerceret animarum, eâdem auctoritate ordinavit, prout in quibusdam literis authenticis, dicti Archiepiscopi sigillo munitis, pleniùs dicitur contineri. Quarè pro parte parochianorum prædictorum nobis fuit humiliter supplicatum, ut erectioni, donationi, applicationi, appropriationi, unioni, annexioni, & incorporationi, voluntati, ac ordinationi prædictis pro earum subsistentia firmiori robur nostræ confirmationis adjicere, aliàsque in præmissis opportunè providere, de benignitate apostolica dignaremur. Nos igitur, qui divini cultus diligimus augmentum, & dudûm inter alia voluimus, quod petentes beneficia ecclesiastica aliis uniri, tenerentur exprimere verum annuum valorem fructuum, reddituum, & proventuum beneficii, cui unio fieri peteretur, alioquin unio non valeret, & semper in unionibus commissio fieret ad partes, vocatis, quorum interest, & idem observaretur in unionum jam factarum confirmationibus, fructuum, reddituum, & proventuum vicariæ dictæ ecclesiæ S. Nicolai, & illius collegii, ac aliarum donationum, & obligationum hujusmodi, verum annuum valorem, necnon ultimæ vacationis dictarum vicariarum ecclesiarum SS. Nicolai, & Jacobi modos, ac literarum erectionis, donationis, applicationis, appropriationis, unionis, annexionis, & incorporationis, ordinationis, & voluntatis prædictorum tenorem, præsentibus pro expressis habentes, hujusmodi supplicationibus inclinati, erectionem, donationem, applicationem, appropriationem, unionem, annexionem, & incorporationem, voluntatem, & ordinationem prædictas, ac prout illas concernunt, omnia, & singula in dictis literis contenta, & indè secuta quæcunque, auctoritate apostolicâ tenore præsentium confirmamus, & approbamus, ac præsentis scripti patrocinio communimus, supplemus que omnes, & singulos defectus tàm juris, quàm facti, etiam alterius cujuscunque solemnitatis omissæ, si qui forsan intervenerint in eisdem. Et pro potioris cautelæ suffragio ecclesiam prædictam S. Nicolai in collegiatam, & in ea unam custodiam pro uno Guardiano, sivè Custode qui inibi ut caput & octo perpetuas vicarias, per totidem presbyteros, qui inibi ut membra cum dicto Custode capitulum constituant, cum communi sigillo, arca, sivè bursa, mensa, & aliis collegialibus insigniis, dictà auctoritate apostolicâ de novo, sine præjudicio alicujus, erigimus, ac vicariam prædictam ecclesiæ S. Jacobi, cui cura imminet animarum, & annuos fructus, redditus. & proventus sex marcarum sterlingarum secundùm communem æstimationem, valorem annuum, ut parochiani prædicti asserunt, non excedunt, quovis modo, aut ex cujuscunque personæ obitu vacet,

etiamsi tanto tempore vacaverit, quod ejus collatio juxtà Lateranensis statuta concilii ad sedem apostolicam sit legitimè devoluta, ipsaque vicaria ecclesiæ S. Jacobi dispositioni apostolicæ specialiter reservata existat, cum omnibus juribus, & pertinentiis suis, eidem ecclesiæ S. Nicolai de novo perpetuò unimus, annectimus, & incorporamus; quodque ecclesia prædicta S. Nicolai sic in collegiatam erecta, juxtà dicti Archiepiscopi ordinationem prædictam, per octo presbyteros morigeratos, virtuosos, & doctos, Anglicanum ritum, & morem in divinorum celebratione observari solitos, perpetuis futuris temporibus regatur, & gubernetur; & illius presbyteri prædicti per superiorem præpositum, vel majorem, & ballivos, ac pares dictæ villæ, Guardiano, sivè Custodi prædicto pro tempore præsentari, & per ipsum Guardianum, sivè Custodem, in perpetuos presbyteros, seù vicarios, in eodem collegio, ad præsentationem eandem, institui. Guardianus verò, sivè Custos præfatus, per eosdem superiosem, præpositum, sivè majorem, & pares, annis ringulis removibilis, eisdem presbyteris, sivè vica. riis præsentari, & per ipsos presbyteros, sive vicarios, ad præsentationem ipsam in Guardianum pro illo anno inibi deputari, & institui debeat; & habeat ipse Guardianus, sivè Custos, post obtentam institutionem suam, durante anno, pro quo electus, seù institutus fuerit, super omnes dictæ ecclesiæ S. Nicolai presbyteros, seù vicarios, ac parochianos, potestatem, & ipsorum, ac parochianorum prædictorum curam exerceat animarum, eâdem auctoritate statuimus, & ordinamus ; ac jus patronatûs, & præsentandi Guardiano presbyteros prædictos in vicarios instituendos, & Guardianum presbyteris, sivè vicariis, per eos instituendum, præfatis superiori, præposito, sivè majori, ballivis, & paribus dictæ villæ, pro tempore existentibus, in perpetuum prælibatâ auctoritate concedimus; jure tamen aliarum parochialium ecclesiarum, & cujuslibet alterius, in omnibus semper salvo. Decernentes ex nunc irritum, & inane, si secùs super iis à quoquam quàvis auctoritate, scienter, vel ignoranter, contigerit attentari. Non obstantibus priori voluntate nostrà prædictà, ac constitutionibus, & ordinationibus apostolicis contrariis quibuscunque, aut si aliqui super provisionibus sibi faciendis, de hujusmodi, vel aliis beneficiis ecclesiasticis in illis partibus speciales, vel generales dictæ sedis, vel legatorum ejus, literas impetrarent, etiamsi per eas ad institutionem, reservationem, & decretum, vel aliàs quomodolibet sit processum, quàs quidem literas, & processus habitos per easdem, ac indè secuta quæcunque, ad præfatam unitam vicariam volumus non extendi, sed nullum per hoc eis quoad