and his family, and a fragment of its portico still remains. In the other portions of the building we distinguish the debased Roman style of the eleventh century. A portion of it is now used as a fruit store house. A number of cloisters were founded by this Abbey which soon became rich and powerful, and the country all round owes to it much of its civilisation, it having been reclaimed from a barren wilderness to a state of high cultivation. Within this Abbey died, with the monk's cowl, the Duke Thassalio of Bavaria, deposed for treason by Charlemagne.

Heppenheim Station (Inn: Halber Mond).— Agreeably situated, but presenting a decayed appearance. The church was built by Charlemagne. It contains a good painting of the Saviour. A charming mountain rises beyond the town, formerly called Berkhelden, luxuriously planted with vines and fruit trees. An easy path winds round it to the ruins of the castle of Starkenberg, built in 1064, by the Abbots of Lorsch, as a defence against the attacks of the German Emperors. It afterwards fell into the hands of the Archbishop of Mayence, who garrisoned it and prized it as an invaluable stronghold. It was the object of several sieges by the Spaniards, Swedes, and French. A picturesque garden surrounds the ruins.

The railway on quitting Heppenheim at a short distance leaves the territory of Darmstadt, and enters that of Baden.

Heinsbach Station.-Close by here is the country residence of M. Rothschild of Frankfort. In this neighbourhood he has a very large estate. Weinheim Station.

Inns Hotel Der Karlsberg; Pfälzer Hof.

Weinheim is a small town with a population of 5,000 inhabitants, built in an amphitheatrical form, against the bosom of a mount. In every portion, of the town you discern traces of high antiquity; and close by is grown the best wine of the Bergstrasse, of which the country around is the most fertile and finest spot. The castle of Windeck, which lies behind the town on a vine-hill, affords a beautiful prospect, and is remarkable for its donjon tower of cylindrical form. Weinheim also has six churches, situated on a beautiful eminence, and an hospital.

Quitting the last station the railway bends towards the south-west, leaving the Bergstrasse, and taking a direct course to the Neckar.

Ladenburg Station (Inn: Adler).--The oldest town in this part of the Rhenish Palatinate, probably the Leopedeum of the Romans, situated on the bank of the Neckar, where it makes a fine appearance with its Gothic turrets, its church of St. Gallus, and high town walls. Its population exceeds 2,500 souls.

Friedrichsfield Station: equally distant from Mannheim and Heidelberg, and the junction of their railways, where the line from Darmstadt falls in. Two miles off are Swetzingen gardens. To the left, rising on an eminence, is the castle of Strahlenberg, elevated above Schreissheim. Further on we perceive Heidelberg opposite us.

HEIDELBERG Station: Quarter of a mile outside the Klingel Thor.

A walk of half-an-hour leads you from the Klingel Thor along the inside of the town wall to the Castle, returning into the Karlsplatz by the path leading downwards, and back to the railway station through the town.

Inns:

Hotel Prince Charles, first-rate and excellent, and close to the Castle. Highly recommended.

Hotel Adler (or Eagle), in the Grand Place, opposite the Castle. Deservedly recommended for its excellent situation, comfort, and moderate charges. Mr. Lehr, proprietor.

Hotel de Hollande, a very comfortable and highly respectable hotel, beautifully situated on the banks of the Neckar, quiet and moderate. Mr. Spitz, proprietor.

Muller's Victoria Hotel is most respectable, and deservedly recommended.

Court of Baden Hotel (Badischer Hof), an moderate. Close to the English Church. old established and unexceptional hotel. Terms

Hotel de Russie, 35, Anlage, good; recommended.

Hotel and Pension Schreider, opposite the Station.

The hotel charges here are moderate: room, with two beds, 1fl. 36kr.; breakfast, 24kr.; service, 24kr.; dinner, with wine, 1fl. 12kr.

English Church Service, 34, Anlage.
Scotch Kirk, in Heiliggeist Kirche.

Heidelberg is situated at the entrance of the charming valley of the Neckar, on the left bank, between the river and the castle rock, and contains a population of 18,200 souls, half of whom profess the Roman Catholic faith. The town itself consists of one street, extending from the railway station to the Heilbronn-gate, a distance of 3 miles. This city has suffered more from the horrors of war than perhaps any other in Europe. At one period before the Thirty Years' War, it was a prosperous commercial city. It was also the residence of the Electors Palatine of the Rhine. War has left nothing but the shred of its former magnificence. It has been five times bombarded, twice reduced to ashes, and thrice taken by assault and delivered over to pillage. In 1622, Tilly took the town by storm after a cruel siege and bombardment of one month, and gave it up for three days to his ruthless soldiers to pillage. He is said to have littered his cavalry with the books and manuscripts from the library of the Elector, one of the most valuable in Europe. It was retaken by the Swedes, who proved scarcely better friends than its imperial foes. The ambition of Louis XIV. was more tremendously distructive than any former foe had been, and two French armies, the first in 1674, the second in 1693, crossed the Rhine, carrying fire, slaughter, and famine in their train. Though Heidelberg was taken and burned by Melac, 1688, it was in the siege of 1693, under Chamilly, that the French exercised a fiendish cruelty and merciless atrocity that remains unparalleled, save by the Reign of Terror in the French Revolution, and which to this day causes in the Palatinate the name of Frenchmen to be execrated. In this carnage no mercy was shewn the Protestants.

The University is one of the most ancient in C'ermany, and was founded in 1386. It is frequented by 700 or 800 students, and has sent forth some distinguished members of the schools of law and medicine, and can boast of the following great names:-Gmelin, illustrious in natural history and chemistry; Tiedemann, in anatomy; Paulus, in theolog; yand Mittermeyer, in criminal law. This palace of literature served as a silent retreat for Gervinus and Schlosser. As an architectural structure the building cannot boast of any

attraction. Its library contains 120,000 volumes, independent of manuscripts. Of the celebrated Bibliotheca Palatina, 890 manuscripts, which were carried off to Rome and placed in the Vatican, were restored in 1815 by Pope Pius VII. The most eminent curiosities in the collection are a Codex of the Greek Anthology; manuscripts of Plutarch and Thucydides, and many valuable autographs; the following works of Luther-manuscript translation of Isaiah; Exhortation to Prayer against the Turks, and a copy of the Heidelberg Catechism, annotated by him, and several other works. Except on Sundays the library is open from 2 to 4, daily.

The Physical and Zoological Museums are placed in a building, formerly a Dominican convent, situated in the suburbs.

The Museum Club, opposite to the University upon the late Parade, contains a good reading room, a ball and concert halls.

The public buildings and houses of this city, as we now see them, gives us but a faint idea of its former grandeur, and we could but distinguish one house among the entire, which might be fairly styled the representative of former architectural eminence. It is the inn, Zum Ritter, situated in the Market Place, near the Church of the Holy Ghost. Its structure dates from 1592; it is surmounted by the statue of a knight, and its richly decorated façade, ornamented with images, heraldic devices, &c., may give the tourist some idea of the character of Heidelberg's architecture, in the days of her ancient greatness.

The Church of the Holy Ghost.-In this edific are entombed the ashes of many of the electors] and Counts Palatine of Germany. All the magn ficent monuments formerly erected in it wer destroyed or mutilated by the French, in 1793 This church has also been the subject of a long contest between the Protestant and Roman Catholi sects, both claiming possession of it, for the pur poses of public worship. This dispute was termi nated by its being equally divided between both and now, beneath the same roof, are celebrate the service of Rome, in all the grandeur of it mystic and ceremonial pomp, and the liturg of the reformed Church in the purity of its u adulterated simplicity. And by it a beautif

1

lesson of Christian charity is taught to the factious contentionists, who, in the bitterness of their fanaticism, forget that though kneeling at different altars, and worshipping by different rites, it is but the one God they venerate, and that charity is the foundation of all religion. And it is worthy of record, that the Electoral Court was removed from Heidelberg to Mannheim by one of the electors, in consequence of a quarrel with the townspeople, who resisted his attempt to deprive the Protestants of this privilege, though he offered to build them a church of their own. Doubtless the English tourists will think it an extraordinary thing-a strange tale-Catholics and Protestants worshipping in the same church; and yet they will meet with other instances of the same kind, both in Germany and Switzerland; and thus from that land, where Luther translated the scriptures, intolerance and bigotry have been banished.

Church of St. Peter.-This fine old church cannot fail to attract the tourist, because of its antiquity and memorable historical traditions connected with the fact of Jerome of Prague, the companion of Huss, having attached to its door his celebrated theses an exposition and defence of the reformed doctrines, which he preached upon and maintained to a multitude of hearers assembled in the churchyard. Here, likewise we see, simple as beautiful, the tomb of that wonderful woman, Olimpia Moreta, who to the exalted grace and rich beauty of a woman, added the intellectual greatness and learning of a philosopher. Driven from her own sunny land, where persecution followed her steps as a heretic, she was forced to fly Italy, and together with her German husband, settled in a house at Heidelberg, where she delivered brilliant courses of lectures to crowded and applauding audiences. As we look upon her grave, and recall her memory, we cannot fail to be deeply interested by the recollection of her more than earthly style of beauty; her misfortunes, literary acquirements, and early death, all of which conspire to illumine her tomb and sanctify her ashes with a brightening halo of peculiar interest.

The Castle of Heidelberg is finely situated on a rock overlooking the Neckar, and its beautiful and fertile valley. It looks an imposing ruin, exhibiting the twofold character of a fortress, and a palace I

and was in remote days the residence of the Electors Palatine. This venerable ruin, so varied in its styles of architecture, representing the tastes of several centuries, so highly interesting in the combined details of its history and chequered fortunes, and so beautifully attractive by its picturesque situation, has been thrice burnt, and devastated on ten occasions by the horrors and barbarism of war, which, however, did not destroy its vast ness, nor the relics of its architectural grandeur. Its ultimate ruin was accomplished in 1764, when it was struck by lightning and burnt to the ground. It is now roofless, and but a collection of red stone walls. It is approached by a steep and strong ascent, winding on the side of the Neckar, and by a carriage road from the rise. The Electors Bardolph and Rupert are said to have been the founders of the oldest part of the building. It still exhibits the appearance of a fortress of the feudal ages, and from beneath the archway we yet see projecting the teeth of the Portcullis. The Friedrichsbau, built in the early part of the seventeenth century, and probably named after the Elector Frederick who erected it, is richly decorated, and the façade to the south of the inner court of the building is adorned with statues, finished as exquisitely as though the artist had to work from Carrara marble instead of the red stone (keuper) of the mountains of Germany. This part of the building of the Elizabethan style, overhangs the river, and extends along the east side of the quadrangle built by Otho Henry in 1556.

The English traveller must be deeply interested by the round tower, in which were the apartments of Elizabeth of England, daughter of James I., and grand daughter of Mary Queen of Scots. It is the most complete ruin in the vast edifice, and the ivy yet climbs over the portion of the mossy wall which at present remains. The wallflower and the briar are in its innermost recesses, and the ivory turned pillars of the triumphal arch, erected in honour of her marriage by her husband Frederick V., Count Palatine, afterwards king of Bohemia The garden attached to it was laid out for her pleasu:e, and is yet called Elizabethen Pforte The council room in which her unfortunate husband consulted his nobles about accepting the crown of Bohemia is still pointed out. Elizabeth remained

outside the door n an adjoining chamber. She demanded to know the decision, and when he hesitated to accept the crown, this ambitious woman exclaimed, "If you refuse to be a king, you are not worthy of having married the daughter of a king. Let me rather eat dry bread at a king's table than feast at the board of an Elector;" and she lived not only to eat, but even to beg the bread of charity with her children, "but she would be a queen!" In the cellar of this castle is the celebrated Heidelberg Tun. Its dimensions are 36 feet by 24 feet, and it is the largest wine cask in the world. It is now long since it was used, and longer since the merry waltz went round in triumph on its broad summit. It is capable of containing 800 hogsheads, and is said never to have been filled but once. It has been out of use altogether

since 1769, or more than a century.

The tower called Der Gesprengte Thurm, which serves as one of the defences of the castle, though undermined and blown up by the French, did not fall to pieces, but fell or slid into the ditch, where it yet remains in a compact mass.

The Gardens and shrubberies surrounding the castle, and originally planned by the engineer, Solomon de Caus, are delightful in the extreme, whilst the terraces and elevations afford a variety of most interesting views. "It is, in truth, a place of surpassing loveliness-where all the romantic wildness of German scenery is blended with the soft beauty of the Italian. An immense plain is bordered on one side by the Bergstrasse Mountains, and on the other by the range of the Vosges. Situate on the river Neckar, in a ravine of the Bergstrasse, amid mountains covered with vines, is Heidelberg. In the middle of the broad plain may be distinguished the shining spires of Mannheim, Worms, and Frankenthal; and pouring its rich stream through this luxuriant land, the beautiful and abounding Rhine receives the tribute of the Neckar."-DISRAELI's Vivian Grey.

However it is from the extreme point of the terrace projecting over the Neckar, that we obtain the best general view of the castle. But a view from one point would ill repay the tourists' visit when we consider the imposing magnificence of the old ruins, and the graud, yet soft sweet beauty of the surrounding country. The heights on the

right bank of the Neckar, approached from the end of the bridge by a steep path, or from Neuenheim by a more gradual ascent, should be ascended by the tourist. The hill fronting the town, reached by the path called the Philosopher's Walk, will afford a good view, as will also, in a more extensive way the Heiligenberg, a hill between the valley of the Rhine, and the Neckar. This was the point chosen by Tilly to open his trenches in the thirty years' war, and on its top we see the ruins of a castle.

A lovely Inn called Hirschgasse, standing fifty yards or so above the bridge, is the spot where the students' duels are fought, sometimes at the rate of four or five a day.

The Konigstühl is the loftiest hill in the district standing to the rise of the town and castle. A very extensive view may be had from its summit, which may be ascended in an hour or two's walk, or by carriage. A high tower has been erected on the spot, and the visitor would do well to ascend it and enjoy the grand prospect it commands. Beautiful indeed is the panorama, including the Rhine and the Neckar, the Odenwald and Haardť mountains on the west, the Taunus, the ridge of the Black Forest, the Castle of Eberstein, and the spire of Strassburg Cathedral, 90 miles distant. The sun rising as witnessed from this hill is decidedly magnificent, conveying to the spectator an exhibition of celestial grandeur well worth contemplation. Never can he forget the golden ocean, irradiated by thousands of spiral shades of starlike briliancy from which the monarch of the day emerges on wings of fire illumining up the entire extent of his eastern territories. Persons anxious to witness this glorious spectacle should pass the previous night at the inn, near the top, called Kohlhof.

Above Heidelberg the banks of the Neckar afford many delightful excursions; the one to NeckarGemünd Station, 6 miles off, from whence the tourist may prolong his route to NeckarSteinach (Inn: Die Harfe). Two miles from the castle and approached by a road overhanging the Neckar, is seen the Wolf's well, a pretty secluded spot. Here the enchantress, Jetta, who first foretold the greatness of the house of the Counts of the Palatinate, was torn in pieces by a wolf.

Close by is a good inn, celebrated for its trout and beer. The road along the margin of the road leads hence to Heidelberg. Two miles on the road to Darmstadt we meet with the little village of Handschuhsheim on the Bergstrasse, where there is a famous collection of Mexican antiquities. Dossenheim, 2 miles from this last village, is famous for its cherries.

On the right bank of the Neckar we see Neuenheim, a small village. Opposite, on the railway station, is a house in which Luther lodged on his way to Heidelberg, in 1518. Droskies can be hired for excursions through the town and suburbs.

Rail to Heilbronn, Stuttgard, and to Wurzburg. To Mannheim, stopping at Friedrichsfeld, the junction of the Frankfort and Darmstadt railway. The Baden railway, Heidelberg to Bâle, branches to Baden-Baden and Kehl (opposite Strasburg), trains to Carlsruhe in 1 hour; Baden, 3 hours; Kehl, 5 hours; to Freiburg, in 7 hours; to Haltringen, 4 miles from Bâle, in 9 hours. A short line to Schwetzingen (p. 133) in connection with branches to Mannheim (Route 27), Speyer or Spires, and Carlsruhe, was opened 1873. Tourists will find the 2nd class carriages comfortable and respectable. Steamboats on the Neckar to Heilbronn in 13 or 14 hours, descending in 7 or 8.

St. Ilgen Station-Quitting this station, the railroad is carried through a flat plain, bounded eastward by a range of hills, and the country through which it passes south of Heidelberg has none of the beauty of the Bergstrasse.

Wiesloch Station: here is a mineral spring and a state prison called Kisslau, formerly a ducal palace.

Langenbrücken Station (Inn: Post).-A small place with 1,300 inhabitants. The mineral springs here range in temperature between 50° and 60° Fahrenheit, and are strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas and sulphur. The sulphur baths are well constructed. is a table d'hôte and music.

Bruchsal Station

There

Inns: Poste; Badischer Hof; Zährinder Hof. Has a population of 7,500, and was formerly the residence and property of the prince-bishops of Spires. Its chief curiosities are the episcopal palace rear the gate leading to Frankfort, and the church of St. Peter with the tombs of the last bishops,

Travellers for Munich and the Tyrol may turn off here by the line to Lugwigsburg, Stuttgart, &c. Untergrombach Station.

Weingarten Station.-A beautiful village with a population of 3,0 0 souls, where we yet see the ruins of a castle of the lords of Schmalenstein. Not far from this village lies the ancient SchlossBuehl, or the place where justice was publicly administered in the middle ages.

Durlach Station, near a town (population, 5,000), once the capital of Baden-Durlach, and the residence of the Margraves of that branch of the reigning family since 1771, when the Baden-Baden line became extinct.

In the palace gardens are many Roman antiquities such as altars, milestones, obliterated bas-reliefs. The ruins of the palace or château is now used as a cavalry barracks.

Rail from here to Pforzeim and Wildbad in the Black Forest.

Passing GOTTESAU to the right, with a Castle built in the ancient style, which at present serves for an artillery and cavalry barracks, we arrive at the

CARLSRUHE Station.

Hotels: Erbprinz; Englisher Hof; Pariser Hof; Goldener Adler; Grüner Hof.

Carlsruhe, the capital of the grand-duchy of Baden, and the seat of government and chambers, lies 1 league from the Rhine, in the Haartwald, or Hart forest, which bounds the town on the north and west. In 1715 a hunting-seat was built on the spot by the Margrave Charles of Baden, and to this fortuitous circumstance we may ascribe the existence of the town, now one of the finest in Germany, and containing a population of 30,400 inhabitants. The streets are regular, broad, and light; some of them afford a prospect of the neighbouring mountains, whilst others form a pleasant architectural picture. The rapidly flourishing state of the town may be dated from the time when the margraviate was raised to an electorate, and afterwards to a grand-duchy It is built in the shape of a fan or wheel, with all the streets converging at the castle, which forms a centre. The generality of the buildings that adorn the city, were founded by the late Weinbrenner and Arnold, directors of buildings. An