Page images


Adoration of the Shopherds and the Scourging of | ing the Sacrament to a Knight, by Crayor. In the Christ, by Rubens; the Descent from the Cross, chapel of St. Ignatius is a communion-talle of by Cels; Christ in the Garden, and the Seven Carrara marble, sculptured in the finest style of Works of Mercy, by Teniers the elder; Christ art, by Van Papenhaved. bearing the Cross, by Van Dyck; a Head of Christ,

The Museum is the finest in the kingdom, and by Otto Vennius; Christ Crucified, by Jordaens;

contains 127 pictures by the first masters of the and St. Dominic, copied from Correggio, by Cra

Flemish school; among them in addition to the yer. A globe, with Time holding an Arrow, which picture of the Fallen Angels we have before points to the hours in succession, forms the clock,

mentioned) are the Martyrdom of St. John, the and is a curious piece of mechanism. Near the

Buriaľ of Christ, and the Head of John the Baptist, entrance of this church is the celebrated represen

by Quentin Matsys; a Holy Family, the Virgin tation of Mount Calvary, beneath which is the

interceding for the souls in Purgatory, the ComTomb of Christ, containing an image of the Saviour munion of St. Francis, Jesus shewing his wounds in a shroud of superb silk, surrounded by a vivid

to St. Thomas, the Adoration of the Magi, St. Anne picture of Purgatory, the flames of which are re

teaching the Virgin to read (an exquisite picture flected on every side, while the horridly grotesque of still life), Christ between the Two Thieves, and expression of the tormented souls inspires, at first

numerous others by Rubens (the last mentioned sight, a sentiment of involuntary awe, which stifles picture is, perhaps the finest specimen of the artist's and subdues the perceptions of the ridiculous

genius; the impenitent thief is depicted with a arising from a more detailed examination of the

fidelity almost too horrible to be contemplated); a

Dead Christ, Christ on the Cross, St. Catherine of In the Church of the Augustines is an admirable

Sienna, St. Dominic, and others, by Van Dyck; picture by Van Broe, a living artist. It represents

St. Luke before the Proconsul, the Charity of St. the Baptism of St. Augustine, and is remarkable

Nicholas to a Poor Family, and others, by Otto for the beauty of its colouring. The Martyrdom

Venius; the Last Supper, the Adoration of the of St. Apollonius, by Jordaens; St. Augustine's

Shepherds, and others, by Jordaens; the ResurVision, by Van Dyck; and a series of designs re

rection, by Martin de Vos; the Adoration of the presenting the principal events of the life of St.

Magi, by Albert Dürer; Portrait of St. Ignatius Augustin, are not to be passed over without notice.

surrounded by a garland of flowers, by Seghers The pulpit and the grand altar, the one carved the

and Schut; &c. The chair of Rubens is likewise other sculptured by Werbruggen, are also much

preserved here, and in an adjoining apartment is a admired. The church of St. Anthony contains only

fine collection of casts. In the garden of the two good pictures, a Dead Christ, by Van Dyck,

Museum are several busts, and a bronze statue of and St. Francis receiving the infant Christ from the

Mary of Burgundy ornamenting her tomb. She hands of his mother, by Rubens. The church of

was drowned in attempting to save the life of her St. Charles Borromeo was formerly the costly

dog, whose image likewise forms part of the monuedifice of its size in Europe; it was commenced by

ment. This Museum may always be visited by the Jesuits in 1614, and finished in 1621. The most boundless expense was lavished on it; the finest

strangers without difficulty. marble was brought from Genoa for its construc- There are also several private collections, which tion, and the whole was completed from the designs are shewn to travellers with great readiness; the of Rubens. The great altar was formed of marble, most remarkable is that of M. Van Lancker, in the porphyry, jasper, and gold; and the shrines of the place de Mer, which is rich in most carefully Virgin and St. Ignatius were of dazzling magnifi- selected specimens of the best masters. There is

But this splendid edifice was destroyed by also a Museum of Natural History in the Rue du lightning in 1748, and the present imitation of it Convent, which is worthy of attention. There is a in stone has supplied its place. The most remark- public Academy for paintings, sculpture, architecablo picturos are Simeon in the Temple, by Delm; turo, and engraving, which was originally founded the Awamption, by Sehut, and a Priest administer | in 1454 and was taken under immediate patronage of royalty in 1817. An immense number of young , bý sea, while an imposing French force, under artists study there. A society for the encourage- Marshal Gerard, proceeded to lay siege to the ment of the fine arts has long been established, citadel and the adjacent forts by land. which distributes prizes every third year, to artists


The French army was much larger than was of merit; the allotting of the prizes is preceded by

deemed necessary for the mere reduction of the foran exhibition, to which none but the works of

tress, but the Prussians had established a large corps living and native artists are admitted.

of observation on the right of the Meuse, and the The Citadel was originally built in 1568, by King of Holland, on his side, had levied a powerful Pacciotto and Cerbelloni, under the direction of force, which was kept ready for action within a the Duke of Alva; it is of immense strength, few leagues from Antwerp; consequently in order being in the form of a pentagon, with six bastions, to be ready for every contingency, the army which command each other, and are defended by under Marshal Gerard was such as to ensure its deep and broad trenches. This fortress formerly success; it consisted of nearly 50,000 infantry, contained the bagne, or place of detention for 6,000 cavalry, and a tremendous train of artillery. criminals condemned to hard labour. It contains The siege of 1832 commenced on the 29th Novem15 weils, and a handsome church, in which protestant ber, and terminated on the 23rd of January, 1833. service is performed. When Carnot was governor

in the surrender of the garrison. The French. of Antwerp, under Napoleon, he spared no pains to

under Marshal Gerard, amounted to 66,000 men. strengthen these fortifications, and succeeded, as

The late Duke of Orleans commanded the troops he thought, in rendering them impregnable, but in the trenches. The best proof that could be they opposed a very ineffectual resistance to the given of the determination and bravery withi progress of the English arms in 1814, when the which General Chassé and his 4,500 men had town was taken, after a bombardment which nearly

defended the trust confided to him, was found in destroyed the whole of the docks.

the state of the fortress when entered by the

victors, all the places which had been built and But the event which gives the citadel of Antwerp

considered bomb-proof were discovered to be in a its greatest interest in modern times, is its siege

state of utter devastation; heaps of ruins, black and surrender to the arms of France at the close of

and smoking from recent conflagration, marked the year 1832. From the period of the revolution,

where buildings had previously stood, and even which divided Belgium from Holland in 1830, the Dutch had retained possession of the cit.adel, which

the hospital which contained the sick and wounded, commands not only the navigation of the Scheldt,

and amputated soldiers, and which was so placed but holds the entire city of Antwerp at its mercy.

as to be, at least comparatively secure, was found

to have been so injured as to threaten momentThe forts below the town, on each side of the river, were also in the hands of the Dutch, so that

arily to fall upon the heads of the inmates; the the late monarch had the control of the commerce

loss of the besieged was stated at 90 killed, 249 of Antwerp as effectually as at any period during

wounded, and 67 missing; that of the French, 108 his reign. To put an end to the incongruous state

killed and 687 wounded. The order of the day of of things, after upwards of two years spent by

the French Marshal stated that 14,000 metres Great Britain and France in fruitless endeavours to

(beween eight and nine miles) of trenches had effect a pacification between the parties, these two

been opened during the siege, and 63,000 cannon powers resolved upon employing force to compel

balls fired at the citadel. An application through the King of Holland to relinquish a position which

a lacquai de place to the Hotel de Ville will obtain gave him so decided an advantage, and which also

an admission to see the citadel. kept both countries in a state of agitation and

The Hotel de Ville is situated in the principal warlike preparation, the evils of which were not market-place, in which the markets are held every very inferior to those of war itself. A combined Wednesday and Friday. It was built 1681, and English and French squadron was therefore enlarged in 1713, by pulling down twenty-nine despatched to blockade the mouth of the Seheldt houges. It has a frontage of 250 feet long, and is adorned with statues of the Virgin, Justice, compositions of the best masters are admirably and Pruderice, with their attributes. The whole performed by amateurs, will afford great pleasure front is covered with ornamental sculpture. In to the lover of music. There are public baths in this building is an extensive Public Library, and the Place Verte and in the Esplanade. The & collection of ancient and modern pictures. environs of Antwerp afford beautiful walks, par

The Bourse, which was burnt down 1858, was ticularly in the park, which is situated just principally remarkable as having been the model outside the gate leading to Brussels. About 8 miles from which Sir Thomas Gresham formed his design south-west is Rupelmonde, with its statue to for the Royal Exchange of London; it was com- Mercator, the inventor of Mercator's map projec

tion. menced in 1531, burnt down in 1583 and finally completed in 1584. It was 180 feet long by 140 feet Between Antwerp and Malines the scenery is wide, surrounded by 44 stone columns, supporting rather pretty. The land is well cultivated, and a gallery. It had two towers, with a clock and a there are several picturesque-looking old châteaux sun-dial. Above the Exchange was the Academy on both sides of the line. of Painting, and beneath it were subterranean The stations are Vieux Dieux, Contich (juncwarehouses for the use of the merchants.

tion for Turnhout), Duffell. The form of the City of Antwerp resembles a Malines, or Mechlin (for description of which strung bow, the string being represented by the see Route 1). This is the central station to which Scheldt, it contains 23 public squares and upwards the Brussels, Antwerp, Ostend, and Cologne lines of 200 streets. The most beautiful is the Place de converge. Passengers from Antwerp or Ostend Meir, in which is the royal palace purchased by going to Cologne, changé trains at this station. Napoleon and furnished by him for his own resi- The guards will always promptly answer this dence. It contains a few fine paintings. In the question :-Change t'on de convois ici pour Cologne ? Place Verte, a square handsomely planted with trees, are held on the 17th of May, and on the

ROUTE 5. 16th of August, fairs which last 30 days, for mer

Bruges to Courtray. chandise of all kinds; here also is the handsome building inhabited by Carnot, while governor of

Bruges.-See preceding Route. Antwerp. In the square, called the Place Ven- Thourout Station. A small town situated in a dredi, is a house, the front of which is embellished fertile district, remarkable for the manufacture of with a figure of Hercules accompanied by a woman, coarse woollen cloth and excellent lace. Here is a bearing the inscription" Labore et Constantia.' branch to Ostend. Its only objects of attraction This was formerly the printing house of Christo- are the large Collegiate Church and Stadthuis. pher Plantin and his successor Moretus.

The Castle of Wynendale is close by. It was in The town also contains á Theatre, a Circus for this place that the Bishop of Lincoln and his colthe exhibition of horsemanship, an Athenæum, leagues negotiated the marriage of Edward, Prince a Mont-de-Piété, a Foundling Hospital, four of Wales, with the daughter of Philip, King of Asylums, one of which is for foreigners, and five France, and that of Edward I., the Prince's father, Hospitals. Antwerp is the birth-place of Crayer, with the sister of that monarch. Rubens, Van Dyck, Jordaens, the two Teniers, Lichtervelde Station, the junction of a line and Ommegank, all painters of the first class ; to Dixmode and Furness. Edelink the engraver, Ortelius the geographer; Roulers Station. A small town picturesquely Grammage, Butkers, Sanderus, and Vammeteren, situate on the Mander, amidst beautiful meadowe. historians; Moretus the printer, and Stockmans, The church of St. Michael, to the rear of the west whose legal decisions are of the greatest authority side of the market-place, a small structure with a in the Belgic courts. The house of Rubens still beautiful spire, and the Stadthuis, an old building exists; the street in which it is situated now situated in the market-place, are worth a visit. bears the name of the painter. The numerous Iseghem Station, of no importance, whero associations called “harmonies," in which the best the railway crosses the Lys, and arrives at

Courtray.-See Route 1.


BRUSSELS, the Capital of Belgium. respond with the government trains going to

Caution.-Travellers are recommended Ostend, Ghent, Brussels, and Antwerp. Tickets

believe cab drivers and omnibus condu for Ostend, Ghent, Brussels, Liége, Mouscron,

when they represent certain hotels as being and Tournay, are delivered at Bruges, Thour

but insist on being put down at the house out, Roulers, Iseghem, and Courtray; and in the

wish to go to. great stations tickets are delivered for Bruges,

We also advise travellers to proceed dire. Thourout, Lichtervelde, Iseghem, Courtray. Pas

the hotel in a cab, as the omnibuses charg sengers arriving from Paris by the night train, or

much and make so many stoppages, that the from Calais by the 2 a.m. train, will find at

accommodation is generally engaged before Mouscron a train going direct to Ostend.

sengers by these vehicles reach their destinat FROM COURTRAY TO BRUges. The trains cor

Hotel de l'Europe, Place Royale, bears a v respond at Courtray with the trains for Mouscron,

high character. Table d'hôte at 5 and 7. Su Tournay, Lille, and Paris, by the Northern Line.

of rooms on ground, first, or second floor, oy

looking the Palace Royale and Park. ROUTE 5A.

Hotel de Flandre, in the Place Royale, has Courtray to Ypres and Poperinghe. considerably enlarged.

Hotel de Belle Vue, a large establishment, Courtray.-See Route 1. On this route we

by Mr. Dremel, of Dresden. pass the village of Bisseghem, near which the

Hotel de Saxe, Rue Neuve, lower town, 3 Duke of York was defeated in 1793 by General

Kervand, proprietor. Sonham, losing on the occasion 70 pieces of cannon.

Hotel de France, Rue Royale, an old-establish Menin Station, a fortified town, situated on

hotel. the Lys, which separates France from Belgium.

Hotel Mengelle, 75, Rue Royale, formerly Hot It contains a population of 9,800 persons.

Cluysenaar. Ypres Station, or Ypern.

Hotel Windsor, Rue de la Regence, upper towi Hotel : La Chatellenie Tete d'Or.

Hotel de Hollande, Rue de la Putteric, situate A fortified town, on a beautiful plain, and con

in the heart of the city, between the Park, tl taining 17,000 inhabitants. This place was formerly

Cathedral, and the Grand Place, is quiet ar very unhealthy, in consequence of the marshes

comfortable. surrounding it, but these have been since drained.

English Boarding House, 65, Rue du Commerc In the fourteenth century it contained 200,000 in

(Quartier Leopold), close to the Park. habitants, and kept 4,000 looms constantly at work.

Culliford's Family Hotel, 20, Rue Bodenbroek. It is famous for its manufacture of the famous

Wiltcher's English Private Hotel and Pensio linen which we call diaper, (i.e. D'Ypres) so much

25, Rue Marie de Bourgogne. used throughout the world.

English Boarding Houses--by Miss Adolphin Les Halles, situated in the great market place. Stievenart, l, Rue de Vienne. At 3, Rue d It is a long, low building, in the Gothic style.

l'Esplanade (Quartier Leopold), by Mr. Allante The Cathedral of St. Martin, in the Gothic style, At 47, Avenue de la Toison d'Or, by Mr. B. D contains a very neatly carved pulpit, and a paint- Boeck. At 6, Rue Jourdan (Avenue Louise), by ing, said to be by Van Eyck, the Fall of Man. In Mrs. Bourecond. the choir a long stone points out the tomb of Horton's Prince of Wales Commercial Inn and Jansen, Bishop of Ypres, who died in 1683.

He | Tavern, 8, Rue Villa Hermosa, near the Place was founder of the sect called the Jansenists, and Royale, first street to the right descending the was long and violently persecuted by the Jesuits. Montagne de la Cour.]

Poperinghe Station, near the Fronch border. Laco.-W. recommend with all confidence the Population, 11,000. Laco and cloth are made. establishment of M. 0. de Vergnlos et Bours.

« PreviousContinue »