Bruges occupies a prominent place in the history of Flanders, the traveller will find this town especially worthy of notice-not that it presents the aspect of a populous modern city, but because it has preserved the peculiarities which distinguished its appearance during the middle ages, when it was the emporium of European commerce, the realdence of merchant princes, occasionally that of the reigning sovereign, and when its population exceeded 200,000. The mailed warrior or the gloved artizan meet no more upon the fortifications, the commerce which animated its quays and canals is dispersed over Europe, its merchants are no longer opulent as princes, the city is no longer the capital of West Flanders. Yet, though these things have passed away, we cannot infer that it was in vain that Providence raised up this town to such a remarkable point of grandeur and importance in a remote age. The characteristic intrepidity, activity, and proverbial turbulence of its artizans, the inflexible will and sturdiness of its burghers, the associations of its merchants and traders, which led to that interchange of opinion, that communion and unity of sentiment so fatal to despotism and feudal oppression, created and fostered that honest love of individual liberty, that regard and attachment for corporative and communal privileges, for which the men of Ghent and Bruges struggled during several centuries. This deep attachment to local institutions has been merged into that of national patriotism, and if the traveller, in conversing with an intelligent inhabitant of Bruges, deplores its depopulated streets, he will be told that if Bruges is not the great and important city it was formerly, it has still much to be thankful for; its citizens, instead of being at continual variance with their sovereign, or the neighbouring towns, are now members of an independent kingdom, governed by a prince of their own choice, with one of the most liberal constitutions in the world-that Bruges is no longer isolated in its splendour and solitude, but that it forms a component part of the nation, and confident in the resources of the country for the gradual development of all branches of industry, it anticipates a return of comparative prosperity. BRUGES is situate in a spacious and beautiful It is interplain, about 6 miles from the sea. sected by a great number of canals, and is, indeed, the central point at which all the canals of the province meet. The population of Bruges now exceeds 47,000, and on fête days the fine old city wears a gay and animated appearance. The beauty of the women of Bruges is of ancient repute, but the present generation scarcely justify the proverb, "Formosis Bruga puellis." When they are seen enveloped in the mantilla of Spanish origin, their brunnette complexions and dark eyes render them most picturesque and pleasing objects among the many splendid and exquisite specimens of architecture with which their dwellings are adorned and embellished. "Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame! Wide squares and streets, with many a court "Spacious and undefaced, but ancient all, When Imry read of tilts, in days of old, SOUTHEY. The Cathedral (St. Saveur). This beautiful church was founded in the seventh century by St. Eloy, and was greatly indebted for its erection to the liberality of Dagobert, the then King of France. It was entirely consumed by fire in 1358, but was again erected, after a more magnificent scale, on the same spot, the charitable subscriptions of the faithful defraying the cost. The spire is 470 feet high. It is built of brick, and in its external appearance presents nothing remarkable or attractive, but its interior is admirable. The paintings are worth notice because of their antiquity, and representing contributions to the history of Flemish art. Immediately under the grand entrance are several works by J Van Oost, the Baptism of Christ, Christ on the Cross, and Jesus leaving his Mother to ascend Calvary, being the principal. A small picture, with shutters, hangs at the south side of the aisle, representing the Martyrdom of St. Sylvester, by Hans Hemling or Memling. There is likewise an excellent painting of the Last Supper, with Abraham and Elijah in the centre, and at the side, by Peter Porbus. On either side of the altar is a black and white marble tomb. The choir is adorned with tapestry, executed by Vanderboight, along which are suspended the arms of chevaliers of the order of the Toison d'or, presents from a chapter of that order, placed in the church by Philip the Good, who founded the order 1430, on the day of his marriage to Isabella of Portugal, and to whose memory a tomb is erected in one of the chapels. In the north aisle of the chapel of the Cordonnie are several monumental brasses, built into the wall, which may be looked upon as interesting specimens of early Flemish art, in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Notre Dame is a church no way remarkable for its architecture, surmounted by a tower and stunted spire, 435 feet high. The most precious ornament of Nôtre Dame is a statue of the Virgin and Child, said to be by Michael Angelo. If it be surprising to find a work by this great man in Belgium, behold the explanation. The work was painted for Genes, and the vessel in which it was being conveyed was taken by a Dutch pirate, who brought it to Amsterdam, where a Bruges merchant bought it and presented it to this church. Horace Walpole offered, in vain, 30,000 florins for it. There are many other excellent paintings in the church, the principal of which are the Adoration of the Magi, by Seghers; the Adoration of the Shepherds, by De Crayer; an Infant Jesus, by Jacques Van Oost; St. Anthony of Padua, an Assumption, and the Marriage of St. Catherine of Sienne. The Tombs of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, and of his daughter, Mary, wife of the Emperor Maximilian, are to be seen in the south aisle of the choir. These were the last native sovereigns of the Netherlands. Mary of Burgundy died on the 27th of March, 1452; and Charles was killed at the battle of Nancy, in 1477. The monument of the Duchess was erected in 1495. In 1558 Philip II. paid Master Iongehlinck the sum of 14,000 florins for the execution of one similar to that of the Duchess, for his grandfather, Charles the Bold. The effigies of both are made of copper, richly gilt, and repose at full length on slabs of black marble. Beneath and around the slabs are coats of arms richly enamelled. They have lately been re-gilt and cleaned. They are shewn to the public only on days of great solemnity, but strangers can easily obtain access to see them on other occasions. Visitors will be well repaid by visits to the churches of St. Giles, Jacques, Walburge, Anne, &c. The Church of Jerusalem is the fruit of a vow made by a pious merchant of Bruges, who, when in the Holy City, promised to build in his native town, if ever he returned to it in safety, a temple, on the model of that of Jerusalem, with an exact The representation of the tomb of our Saviour. church also contains some fine specimens of coloured glass. In the Church of St. Salvador are the Seven Acts of Mercy, by Van Dyke; the Resurrection, by Van Os; the Martyrdom of St. Barbara, by Cels; and numerous other pictures. The Church of St. Mary is remarkable for its fine specimens of carving; the pictures are not of striking merit. Church of St. Basil, or of the Holy Blood, is situated opposite the Town Hall. A beautiful Gothic façade will attract notice. It is called Le petite eglise de Saint Basili, and tradition says that some drops of our Saviour's blood, brought by Count Thierry, of Alsace, from the Holy Land, are now deposited in a richly jewelled and enamelled shrine of gilt silver. This is shewn in the Upper Chapel, the shrine being exposed on every Wednesday to the veneration of the faithful. In this chapel are some beautiful paintings, and a pulpit, with medallions carved in wood. Fifty cents are charged for admission. Hospital of St. John, which is close to the church of Nôtre Dame. The period of its foundation is unknown. It is only known that in 1188 the governor prescribed many rules to the religious brothers and sisters of the house. It originally only received Magdalenes into it, but now persons of every description are received and attended by the sisters. This institution is celebrated for possessing several beautiful pictures, painted by Hans Hemling, so remarkable for purity of colouring and brightness of tone, that the most indifferent spectator will find himself an admirer of their prominent beauties. In the chapter house are hung the portraits of some of the directors and superiors of the establishment, the celebrated paintings-the pride of the city and admiration of travellers-by Hans Hemling, presented by him to the hospital, as a mark of his gratitude for the kindness with which he was treated when a patient there. The other objects are the Virgin and Child, the Marriage of St. Catherine, the Decapitation of St. John the Baptist, and St. John the Evangelist at Patmos, with a Crucifixion by Franks, and a Holy Family by Vandyke. The Belegary, or Chasse de St. Ursula, is worth notice, consisting of a wooden coffer, painted by Hemling, in which is the arm of the saint. The sides are painted with representations of St. Ursula's pilgrimages and martyrdom. The history of these paintings is singular and merits a short notice. Hemling was originally a libertine and dissipated character at Bruges. He was engulphed in misery and became a soldier. He was not known as a painter when a wound, received in 1477 at the battle of Nancy, compelled him to enter the hospital as a patient. His wound was healed in a short time, but he so well liked the mode of life, &c., of the hospital, that he remained in it for 6 years, and paid his expenses by painting these pictures. The Hôtel de Ville is a beautiful Gothic monument, well preserved, founded in 1377, by Count Louis de Maele. It was formerly surmounted by six beautiful towers. The niches seen in front contained 33 statues of the Counts of Flanders, the designs of which are preserved in the beautiful work of M. Delpuire-The Annals of Bruges. Today these niches are empty. In 1792, the troops of the French revolution caused the statues to be destroyed as "images of tyrants." They were burnt in the Grand Square in a bonfire, the materials of which were composed of the gallows, scaffold, and the wheel. In the Grand Hall of the building is the public library containing 8,000 volumes and 500 MSS. The staircase of the Hotel deserves notice, and also the paintings adorning it. Palais de Justice is close to the Hôtel de Ville, and was formerly the residence of the Counts of Flanders, and was anciently called Palais du Franc de Bruges-the Palace of the Liberty of Brugesa large district independent of the city. The interior contains little remarkable save the council chamber of the magistrates and the magnificent chimney or mantel-piece. It is carved in wood, and is a chef-d'œuvre of sculpture in its way, including statues of Charles V., Mary of Burgundy, Maximilian, Charles the Bold, and Marguerite of York. The Story of Susannah is represented on the marble bas-reliefs decorating it. Tour des Halles, or Market Tower.-In the Grand Square, or market-place is held the annual fair, commencing 4th May, and lasting 15 days. There are also two horse fairs, of two days each, held the first Thursday after Easter, and the 25th July. The meat market in this square is exquisitely neat and well arranged. At the extremity of the square is a steeple or belfry, the "Belfry of Bruges," "old and brown;" celebrated in Longfellow's poem, and also in his "Carillon." It is 320 feet high, and is esteemed one of the most beautiful in Europe; the ascent to it is by 533 steps, and it contains a splendid set of chimes, which are set in motion every quarter of an hour by an immense cylinder, acting like the barrel of an organ, and setting in motion the keys of the instrument. Near this Belfry is the splendid building formerly occupied as the drapers' hall; it is now divided into two coffee-houses, and contains a fine vaulted saloon, in which the National Society of Literature hold their meetings. Opposite to this building, and forming the corners of the street of St. Arnaud, are two old houses, one of which was the residence of the Emperor Charles, and of Charles II. of England, during his exile. In his exile he did not want a royal title, for the burghers of Bruges elected him Roi des Arba leThe house triers, King of the Cross-bowmen. now bears the sign "Au Lion Belge." The Covered Fish Market, with its granite columns, is a handsome building, lately erected. In the opposite corner of the Rue St. Arnaud is the site of the Craenenberg, traditionally interesting as being the prison of Maximilian in 1487-8. Near the Rue Noordzand is the Prinssenhof. In it Marguerite of York, sister to Edward IV., was married, in 1468, to Charles the Bold. The Academy of Painting is in the building known as Het Poorters Huis, formerly the factory of the Biscayens, and contains some very fine old paintings, by J. Van Eyck, Hans Hemling, Pourbus, and Claessens. The principal manufactures of Bruges are lace, woollen stuffs, camlets, hats, snuff, china, carpets, ticking, dimities, and a blue dye which is peculiar to the loom. The lack-workers are said to exceed 5,000 in number. There are also numerous salt and sugar refineries, rope walks, dyeing-houses, breweries, distilleries, and bleaching grounds. Bruges also contains a museum, with a tolerable collection of pictures; a public library, and a botanic garden, a theatre, an academy of fine arts, and several literary and scientific societies. The English church service is performed on Sundays. The tract of country surrounding Bruges, for 25 miles, was formerly called the Free Country of Bruges, from the circumstance of the inhabitants having succeeded in throwing off the yoke of both the rival cities of Bruges and Ghent, and obtaining from the Counts of Flanders numerous exclusive privileges, amongst which were those of separate magistrates and tribunals. The high state of cultivation into which this province has been brought by the unremitting exertions of the inhabitants, cannot be too much admired. The southern districts are fertile in flax and rape-seed. A railway runs to the watering places of Blankenberg and Heyst, near the island of Cadzand, and the Dyke which Dante commemorates in his Inferno as raised by the Flemings, "tra Gazzante è Bruggia," to keep out the sea. Blankenberg is a growing bathing place, with a population of 2,000. Bruges to Ghent by the direct line. (There is a loop via Eecloo).-Quitting the station at Bruges, the railway is carried a little to the south side of the canal, and passing to the right Oostcamp Station, it runs through a country no ways interesting, and arrives at Bloemendael Station, near a little village containing 3,150 inhabitants, and watered by the Splenterbeck, which flows into the canal. Shortly after leaving this station, the road winds to the left a little distance from the canal from Ghent to Bruges, and entering the district of the commune of St. George, it quits West and enters East Flanders. Shortly after arriving at Aeltre Station, supplying a commune of the district of Ghent, with a population of 5,400 inhabitants, it is seen to the right of the canal. The road from here passes for some minutes through a cutting, and emerging thence commands a view of Bellem and Hansbeke, the former a village of 1,700 inhabitants, the latter one with 2,800. The railway is next carried over, by a bridge, the Canal de Nevile, which joins the canal from Ghent to Bruges, and arrives at Landeghem Station, a commune of the district of Ghent, with a population of 2,000 souls. Leaving here we cross the Lys by a bridge, and arrive at Ghent. A description of Ghent will be found in Route 1. Ghent Station is on the south-east side of the town. On the high ground to the left, at the other side of the Scheldt, is the new citadel. The church of St. Pierre, with its dome, is seen on the other side of the hill. The Grand Canal between Bruges and Ghent is bounded by high banks, and lined with tall trees, entwined by pretty villas and sweet gardens. Ghent to Brussels.-(See Route 10). ROUTE 4. London to Antwerp by the Scheldt. The direct route from London to Antwerp, vid the Thames and the Scheldt, is most pleasant and convenient. The steamers start from St. Katharine's Wharf, London, every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, at noon. They are splendid vessels, with excellent accommodation. Also by the Great Eastern Railway, via Harwich, every Wednesday and Saturday. Families, in particular, who are going to the Rhine, and wish to include a visit to Antwerp in their tour, will find this route par excellence, the most advantageous. The fares are reasonably low; and the advantage of conveying that indispensable encumbrance—the luggage-from London to Antwerp without a "transfer," will be appreciated by every head of a "family." The sail down the Thames is fraught with characteristics full of interest. A perfect forest of masts, belonging to ships of all sizes and nations, looms out in the Pool. Colliers, coasters, steamboats, and river craft, throng the Thames in every direction, and the fleet of merchantmen, and the restless activity seen along the banks, give a vast conception of the glories of that commerce which has enriched the city of London. As the vessel proceeds cautiously on, we are interested by the granaries and wharfs on each side, recognised as the largest in the world. The Tower is on the northern bank of the Thames. It is a large pile of building, including an area of more than 12 acres, and owes its irregularity to having been erected and enlarged by various sovereigns at distant periods of time. Besides being the repository of the regalia, it is now used as a garrison and arsenal. St. Katharine's Docks, adjacent to the tower, occupy 24 acres, and were opened 1828. The London Docks come next, covering an area of 34 acres. In the vaults, more than 65,500 pipes of wine can be stowed. The West India Docks, extending across the northern extremity of the Isle of Dogs, from Limehouse to Blackwall, were opened in 1832, and formed the first establishment of the kind in London. The Commercial Docks are seen on the other side of the river. Deptford, with its Naval Victualling Yard, and the new Foreign Cattle Market, established by the Corporation on the site of the Dock Yard, next claims our notice. The Dreadnought Hospital Ship, which used to be anchored below this, is now removed. Greenwich, with its fine Hospital (now turned into a Naval College), and Observatory, standing out boldly and picturesquely from the clustering foliage of the Park, greets our view. For its description and history, see BRADSHAW's Guide through London and its Environs. The Isle of Dogs is on the opposite side of the river, and an abrupt turn in the river brings us to Blackwall, with its pier, and the handsome terminus of the Blackwall Railway. Just below the railway station, on the left, are the new Victoria Docks, recently opened. Woolwich on the right, with its rotunda, cannon-foundry, arsenal, and barracks, is now seen. Further down, Erith, on the right, with its pretty rural church, immediately after. Gravesend, on the right, with the slope of the Windmill Hill rising proudly behind the town, will next attract our notice. Tilbury Fort, with its gate or blockhouse of the time of Henry VIII., lies across the river; and the widening expanse of water, enlivened by the constant transit of vessels, presents to us a moving panorama of animated interest. From hence to the Nore we pass Southend, Sheerness, and its Dockyard; then Herne Bay, Margate (with Shoeburyness opposite it), and the Foreland; and we sail, almost in a straight line, from the Thames to the Scheldt. The latter stream is situated immediately opposite the mouth of the English river and the port of London. It caught the eye of Napoleon as suitable for a two-fold purpose-either to annoy the English in war, or rival them in commerce. Entering the West Scheldt, at the mouth of the river, we see, on the left, Walcheren, the most extensive of the nine islands forming the province of Zeeland. The district lies many feet below the level of the sea. Various branches of the river Scheldt separate the islands one from the other, which are protected from the inroads of the ocean by sand banks and dykes, or sea walls, measuring more than 300 miles in extent, and kept in repair at an annual cost of 2,000,000 florins. These dykes are divided by engineers into two classes, called polders calamiteux, and polders non-calamiteux-the former maintained at the expense of Government, and the others by privatę individuals. The country is, as it were, partitioned out by dykes, the interior defences serving as a barrier against the further ravages of the flood, should the outer dykes break. The great dyke of West Kappel ruptured in 1808, and the waters burst in, inundating the greater part of the island. In the streets of Middleburg, the sea was up to the roofs of the houses, and the strength of its walls only saved the town from being destroyed. Corn and madder are the staple produce of the province, which is very fertile. As we ascend the Scheldt, we see, now and then, peering over the artificial mounds enclosing them, the tops of the spires, roofs, and tall chimneys of the towns and villages, in which the province is very populous. Cadsand we see to the right, facing Walcheren. Flushing is the first town we see on our left. |