volcano. In the streets, again, are to be met | land. As the boats leave the "Boompjes" at quaintly dressed school children; an occasional peasant woman, in lace cap and ornaments, bearing a yoke across her shoulders, from which depend brightly furnished milk cans that shine like gold; or perhaps the active" Aanspreker" trips along in his cocked hat and black scarf, an official who is a perambulatory gazette, going from house to house to announce births and deaths. In Utrecht are everywhere found traces of Louis Quatorze, and of the struggle of the Dutch against French rule. Holland may justly be proud of the noble and heroic stand she has ever maintained for liberty and independence. Her sufferings are remembered to be wondered at and revered, while the name of the great Monarch of France is tarnished by that petty spite which ordered the destruction of the dykes. The mock-hero was incompetent to apprehend the heroic people he had injured, and returned home, as Voltaire observed, "with the deplorable glory of having destroyed one of the masterpieces of human ingenuity." The Jansenists, or Dutch Catholics, as they call themselves, being unacknowledged by Rome, have a quarter to themselves in Utrecht. Their church, a pretty building with the simple inscription "To God," stands in the midst of modest houses with neat gardens. After dinner drive to Zeist, a most delightful spot, where a Moravian community have settled, and where they hold their schools, and carry on their unostentatious charities, amidst the most charming wooded scenery, The train may be taken from Utrecht to Cologne if it be intended to proceed up the Rhine; or if to England or Belgium, there is a train at nine o'clock a.m. to Gouda Station, which place is reached in about half an hour. The tourist should book his luggage to Rotterdam, as he will only stop at Gouda till the next train. Notice the old Town Hall, and the large Church, with its 31 large stained glass windows, as beautiful as any in Europe, and therefore well worth the delay. At one o'clock proceed to Rotterdam, which will be reached in time to get dinner, and to have the luggage comfortably on board the packet for Eng, various hours, according to the tide, it would be necessary to examine one of the packet bills, which are hung up at almost every railway station, to ascertain the hour of departure, and so regulate the journey from Utrecht; or if preferred, the boat may be taken at Rotterdam to Moerdyk Station, thence by train to Antwerp (see Route 4), and so the ten days' tour we have sketched through Holland may be indefinitely extended through Belgium and up the Rhine, &c. (See BRADSHAW's Continental Guide and Hand-book.) ARNHEM Station. The distance from Utrecht to Arnhem by rail is 88 miles; the trains take 1 hour, Pop., 29,000. Hotels: Hotel de Belle Vue is one of the best hotels on the Rhine, in every respect, The Sun; Bear's Head. SIGHTS. Groote Kerk (the great church); the Town Hall; the Park and Grounds of Hartjesberg, entrance near the railway station. From this old capital of Guelderland, a short excursion may be made to Zutphen, where Sir P. Sidney was killed, and Deventer, which figured in the Dutch war for freedom, in Queen Elizabeth's time. Within a short distance are Saansbeek Castle; Bronbeek House, for invalid soldiers from India, containing pictures and curiosities; and Middagten Castle, a seat of the Bentinck family, who are kin to the Duke of Portland. Loo, the King's country seat, is 20 miles distant, near Aspeldoorn. IV. ROUTES IN THE CEDED DISTRICTS OF LORRAINE AND ALSACE. (Called Lothringen and Elsass, in German; on the west bank of the Rhine, now annexed to Germany.) The ceded districts under the Franco-German treaty, ratified 2nd March, 1871, include the departments of Haut and Bas-Rhin, comprising Alsace, with a population of 1,000,000; Moselle, or East" Lorraine, and part of Meurthe, with a population of 360,000; making a total population of 1,360,000, and an area of 6,250 English square miles. The new boundary takes in Metz, Thionville, Strasburg (the capital of the new German province), Colmar, Muhlhausen, and nearly follows the course of the Seille and the crest of the Vosges mountains, From Avricourt to Strasburg. (Paris and Strasburg Railway.) For the first part of this line up to Embermenil, near the German frontier, see BRADSHAW's Hand-book to France. Avricourt Station (5 miles) is not far from Blamont (15 kil.), near the head of the Vezouze, under the Vosges range (in one of whose gorges is the glass works of St. Quiren), which has a ruined castle, and gave birth to Regnier, Duke of Massa. Several lakes are near. Through a forest, to Heming Station (8 miles), where the northern road from Nancy falls in. Sarrebourg (5 miles), a sous-préfecture of 2,600 souls, and military post on the Sarre, in German Lorraine, in a pass of the Vosges, divided into upper and lower town. It belonged to the Archbishops of Metz and Dukes of Lorraine, came to France 1661, and back to Germany 1871. Most of it was rebuilt after the fire of 1461. Here are large military storehouses. It was the Pons Sarave of Roman geographers, and coins have been found. Levasseur, a deputy to the Legislative Assembly, was born here. The rail now traverses the Vosges mountains by a series of tunnels, the first of which is Hommarting, 8,787 feet, the greatest work of the kind on the line. It enters the mountains to the left of the Marne and Rhine Canal, on a level with it, but comes out to the right of it, and 39 feet lower, having passed by an incline under the canal. It then crosses the rocky gorge of the Zorn (which the canal passes on an aqueduct), to a second tunnel of 804 feet. Lützelbourg Station (10 miles) whose ruined castle overlooks the valley. It stands near the summit of the Vosges. Coach to Phalsbourg. [PHALSBOURG or PFALSBURG (4 miles northnorth-east), a fortified fort, on a rock, where English prisoners were kept in the war. The eitadel, built by Vauban to command a pass of the Vosges, capitulated to the Germans 12th December, 1870. It was called Einartyhausen, before 1570, when the Prince Palatine of Velden rebuilt it under its modern name; it came afterwards M. Erckmann, joint author with M. Chatrian of the Conscript, Waterloo, The Plébescite, &c., resides here.] Four more tunnels succeed, respectively 1,417, 1,296, 1,640, and 1,009 feet in length. You catch glimpses of various feudal towers and ruined castles crowning the tops of the mountain ranges, among which the Hohen-Barr and Géroldseck are the most picturesque. Saverne Station (5 miles), down the east slant of the Vosges (towards the Rhine), in a charming spot on the Zorn, is a sous-préfecture in Alsace (late department Bas-Rhin), having 6,400 souls, and belonged to the bishops of Strasburg, whose handsome seat here is now a barrack. The church has a high square tower. Copper goods are made. Hotel: De la Poste. It is said to have taken its name from the old tabernae, or resting place, distributed through the valley. The hill at the top of the spiral road above the town commands a fine prospect over Alsace and Strasburg Minster. Coaches to Marmontiers, Wasselone, Mutzig, Molsheim. [At 6 kil. south is MARMONTIERS, with an ancient abbey church of the tenth century.] Steinbourg Station (34 miles), on the Zorn. Coach to Neuwiller, which has a seat built by the Duke of Feltre, on the site of Hunebourg château. Dettwiller Station (24 miles), lower down the Zorn. Hochfelden Station (5 miles). Coach to Bouxviller. Monmenheim Station (3 miles), on the plain of Alsace. Brumath Station (2 miles), where the rail turns off from the Zorn, is the ancient Brocomagus, and is near the foundling hospital of Stephansfelden, founded 1220. Here the Austrians were defeated, 1798. Vendenheim Station (44 miles), where the branch line to Weissenburg turns off. About 5 miles further is STRASBURG, 312 miles from Paris. See Route 27. ROUTE B. Strasburg to Mulhouse, Basle, &c. Up the Rhine by railway. Distance 139 kil., or 89 miles; 3 to 5 hours. Terminus, near Porte de Saverne. The railway passes up the valley of the Ill, which receives innumerable streams from the Vosges mountains to the west, through its principal branches, the Eger, Andlau, Scheer, &c. Between the Ill and Rhine is the Rhine and Rhône canal, which has a branch to Bâle, and joins the Saône at Dijon. Geispolsheim Station (7 miles), on the Eger, once a fortress. Population, 8,220. Dachstein, 12 kil. off, on the Ill, was a fortress taken by Turenne, 1674. Further off are Molsheim and Mutzig, where they manufacture ribbons, fire-arms, &c. Fegersheim Station (13 miles), near the Ill and Andlau. Rosheim (15 kil. west), in a pretty position on the Magel, is a walled town of 4,000 souls. Limersheim Station (2 miles). Erstein Station (2 miles), on the Ill, was a fortress in the stormy times of the Empire, like most other places in this frontier land. Population, 3,690. Coach to Obernay (12 kil. west-north-west), which lies on the Andlau, above Neidernay, and is ill built, with a population of 5,100 souls, who make calicoes, &c. It has an old château, and a Gothic tower, called Kappelen Thurm. Further up the Vosges you come to the Hochfeld and Odilienberg, near the Waldersbach, the scene of Oberlin's labours. Odilienberg is a favourite pilgrim's chapel, founded by St. Odile, daughter of a duke of Alsace, on a height which commands a view of almost to Basle. There are several fine ruins about it, as the castles of Rathsamhausen, Landsberg, and Andlau, and Truttenhausen convent. Matzenheim Station (3 miles), on the Ill. Benfeld Station (2 miles), also on the Ill, in the centre of the tobacco cultivation, and a small place of 8,000 souls, as old as the seventh century, but dismantled after the treaty of Münster. Coach to Barr (11 kil. west-north-west), a Protestant town of 4,600 population, in a delightful hollow, under the Kirchberg, Hohenburg, Monkalb, and other heights. The old castle is replaced by a Hôtel de Ville, built 1640. Woollen mittens and socks are made. Andlau (south-west of Barr) among vine-covered hills, is another pretty spot, near Hohe-Andlau castle, a conspicuous ruin, on a hill, once the seat of a very old Alsace family. Here was an abbey, founded by the wife of the Emperor Charles the Fat. Kogenheim Station (3 miles), on the Ill. "Heim," in these names is literally "home." Ebersheim Station (2 miles), has a buffet, and a conveyance to Dambach, near Bernstein castle. Towards the Rhine are the three slender towers of Ebermünster church, whose abbey was founded in the seventh century. It has some very old frescoes and wood carving. Schlettstadt Station (4 miles), on the Ill, a sous-préfecture of 10,360 population, and an old free city of Alsace, called Electus, by the Romans rebuilt 1216, taken by Louis XIV., 1673, and fortified by Vauban. It capitulated to the Germans 24th October, 1870. The chief buildings are St. George's Gothic church of the fourteenth century, with a square tower, 187 feet high; the Recollets' church; public library, with some early printed books; the college at the old commandery of Malta, near the round church of St. Foi, built 1094, by a crusader, on the plan of the Holy Sepulchre; the arsenal; the old fause porte or belfry tower, in the Gothic style; new corn market and tobacco factory. Martin Bucer (or Kulborn), was a native. The Giessen passes by on the north, from the Vosges mountains, which are in view. Manufactures of pottery (enamelled pottery was invented here in the twelfth century), metallic gauze, iron and copper, &c., are carried on. Hotels: De Bouc (Goat); de l'Aigle d'Or (Golden Eagle). Branch rail to St. Marie-aux-Mines. Coaches St. Dié, Epinal, Nancy, &c. Orschwiller (6 kil. west north-west), is in the neighbourhood of the Ramstein and Ortenberg towers, of Kirtzheim and its castle, and under the fine old castle of Hohe Königsberg, which the Swedes destroyed after they took this town, in the thirty years' war, 1632. It was built by the Frankish kings, and became an imperial fief, being held by knights, who were half robbers and half tyrants. St. Hippolyte Station (3 miles), is the nearest station for Königsberg castle, and also Frankenberg, another picturesque ruin, burnt 1582. It belonged to the bishops of Strasburg. St. Ribeauville Station (2 miles), or Rappoltzveiler in German, among vineyards, in a pretty valley, under the heights covered by the old castles of Rappoltstein, Giersberg, and St. Ulrich. Gregoire's church has several ancient tombs; the Hotel de ville is good. Population, 7,340. In the neighbourhood are remains of the chapel, Nôtre Dame of Dusenbach, and a famous cyclopean wall (on the sides of the Vosges), called the Heidenmauer, or Heathen's wall. The vast blocks of which it was composed, are traced for 5 or 6 miles. Near Baroche, to the south, is Hohenach castle, the tower of which commands one of the most beautiful views in this interesting country. [At 18 kil. east-south-east, is MARCHOLSHEIM, near the Rhine, with bleachground and tobacco factories. Population, 2,600.] Ostheim Station (2 miles). Population, 1,700. [At RIQUEWIHR (7 miles west), among vineyards, on the Sempach, is the old castle of Reichenstein, dismantled 1209. A little south of it, on the Weiss, is the old imperial castle of Kaiserberg, built in the thirteenth century, by Fredk. Barbarossa, whose statue is in the village. The ruins of Alspach abbey are near this; and higher up the stream are the fine ruins of Hoh Landsberg, and Plixburg.] Bennwihr Station (2 miles). Coaches to Tigolsheim, Kintzheim, Kaiserberg, Orbey, La Poutroye. Orbey is under a mountain, on which are the White and Black Lakes; each about 3 miles in circuit. White Lake, shut in by granite walls, is the source of the Weiss. Hereabouts is the highest part of the Vosges chain At 2 miles further is COLMAR Station. Hotels: De l'Ange (Angel); Des Deux Clefs (Two Keys); Des Trois Rois (Three Kings.) Population, 21,350. Chief town of late department Haut-Rhin, in a fine plain half-way between the Vosges and the river Rhine, or the river Lauch, 1 mile from the Ill. It is not far from the site of the Roman Argentovària; it was an imperial free city, given up to France, by the treaty of Westphalia, 1648, when the fortifications were razed, and now re-annexed to Germany. There are three gates, many narrow streets and old houses, with good walks on the Champ de Mars, and in the ancient pepinière, as well as in the orangery, and the cemetery of Horburg (2 kil off). It is watered by the branches of the river and the canals of the Fecht. The Minster, built 1363, is a large Gothic building with a tower about 300 (?) feet high, and an alter-piece on wood, by Schön. Its tower commands a view of above 800 places in Alsace and Baden, &c. The Jesuit church was built, 1750; the fine nave of the Dominican church is now the Schöngauer Society's, and the old Protestant church is a store-house Other objects of notice are the ancient Maison de Ville, the préfect's hotel. Here also is the head (as well as the sword which cut it off) of Hagenbach, Charles the Bold's governor, who figures in "Anne of Geierstein;" the hospital the vast maison d'arrêt (prison), large cavalry barracks, and public slaughter-house (abattoir); the college contains the bibliothèque of 40,000 vols., besides rare MSS., and a museum of paintings by Schön, A. Durer, &c. In the neighbourhood, are the large factories of MM., Hauseman, Hersog, &c. At MUNSTER (20 kil. to the west-south-west), in the busy valley of that name, is M. Hartmann's factory, near the Generals Rapp old castle of Schwarzenburg. and Rewbel, who was one of the Directory, were natives of Munster. MM. Schaller, Heintz, &c., Munster had an are Protestant pastors here. abbey, the last head of which embraced Protestantism, in 1536. In this quarter are Wintzenheim, under Hoh Landsberg Castle; and Turck A buffet, 893 miles from Strasburg; 464 from Basle, heim, once an imperial fief, now noted for its red wines. Here Turenne gained a victory over the Imperialists, 1675, with the assistance of English troops, lent by Charles II. Colmar has large manufacturers of cotton, linens, ribbons, powder, &c.; and a trade in wine, grain, &c. Conveyances by branch rail to Münster; coach to Breisach, thence to Freiburg and Black Forest, Freibourg in Baden, &c. A road leads down to a disused custom-house and ferry on the Rhine, near Fort Mortier, and the citadel of Neu Breisach, built by Vauban on the Rhine canal, and taken by the Germans 10th November, 1870. From Colmar, on the way to Bâle, you pass Eguisheim Station (5 miles), which has a strong six-sided tower left of an ancient château, the birth-place of Leo IX. Pop., 2,130. Here also are the Drei Exen, or three towers of another castle which belonged to the imperial house. Herrlisheim Station (1 mile). A modern château on the site of the old castle-once a nest of robbers. The ancient church of Gueberschiwihr is seen beyond this station. It has a Norman tower with pent-house roof. Rouffach Station (4 miles), on the Lauch, with an old Gothic church and remains of Isen At bourg castle, formerly a seat of the Merovingian kings. Marshal Lefebvre was born here. Judenfeld, many Jews were executed; and they say that no Jew will live there to this day. Pop., 3,630. Coach to Soultzmatt. Merxheim Station (3 miles), to the southwest of which is Ballon de Guebwiller, the highest of the Vosges range (4,700 above the level of the se). Then Bollwiller Station (44 miles), in a wine district. Coach to SOULTZ (pop., 4,000, and a handsome spire church), and branch rail to Gebwiller, another spinning place, which has (near some abbey ruins) a fine Norman church with three spires. Here the ascent to the Ballon may be made (the view takes in part of Switzerland), descending to the interesting valley of St. Amarin in which is a castle, a large factory for Indiennes, &c., and a way to Thann. Wittelsheim Station (3 miles). Lutterbach Station (4 miles), where the branch to Thann turns off, as below. MULHOUSE, or Muhlhausen, Station, 69 miles from Strasburg, 304 from Paris (via the new route through Belfort, Troyes, &c.) There is a buffet at the station. Hotels: Romann, kept by Messrs. Romann Brothers: newly refurnished, very good house. A town of 29,580 souls, and a great seat of manufactures, such as cotton prints, turkey red, wollen, worsteds, muslins, yarn, silk, steam engines, spinning machines, locomotives, &c. It was an imperial city from 1268 till 1515, when it became a Swiss republic, was joined to France, 1798, and is now annexed to Germany It stands partly on an island of the Ill, and on the Rhine and Rhône canal, and is generally well built, with some old houses. The new quarter was begun 1828. There are Catholic and Reformed churches, a synagogue, Hôtel de Ville, the oldest of its public buildings, college, hospital, cabinets of natural history, &c., bibliothèque, various public walks, and a chamber of commerce, council of prud 'hommes (joint committee of masters and workmen) being that of Köchlin Brothers. and many factories, one of the largest and oldest Rhine, has one of the most remarkable churches in Rixheim Station (3 miles), which has large Bartenheim Station (14 miles). St. Louis Station (5 miles), on the Swiss Frontier, where baggage is searched. [On the Strasburg and Basle railway, after St. Louis, to the right, near the Rhine, is HUNINGUE, which had, on a rock, one of Vauban's fortresses before 1815, when it was taken by the Austrians. It contains a good church, barracks, &c., and a monument to General Abattucci. Pop., 2,000]. At 2 miles further is BASLE, in SWITZERLAND (see BRADSHAW's HandBook to Switzerland). |