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in the city to perpetuate the honourable part taken Holland is remarkablo. In almost every town may by the Dutch at that period. The numerous be observed their synagogues and their cemeteries, institutions for orphans, the aged, the destitute, with simple tombs bearing Hebrew inscriptions. the blind, the deaf and dumb cannot fail to impress
After dinnner visit the sluices, and walk upon the stranger with admiration for this provident the dykes, round the harbour-side of the town. and charitable nation. The absence of beggars This will give a clear idea of the difficulties the also is noticeable, the principal importunities being Dutch have overcome. The city lies so low that from industrious shoe blacks and eager commis
it is a marvel how the water is kept out. W sionnaires.
may remind the tourist that Admiral Ruyter and Turning down a street to the right, the market Vondel, the poet, both lived in Amsterdam. square will be reached, where there is a statue of Next morning take the half-past seron o'cloek Rembrandt, the painter, who was a native of steamboat for Zaandam, and break fast there Amsterdam. It is not very far from here to the at the Café, close to the landing stago. After Zoological Gardens, which contain fine specimens, inspecting Peter the Great's hut, start for Broek and are everywhere in beautiful condition and and Buicksloot. The carriage costs six florins order. The rare salamanders of Japan may be (10s.), with “trinkgeld" for the driver. The exexamined here, the enormous hippopotami may be
treme cleanliness of Broek (or Brook), has become seen dining off black bread and a salad of grass,
proverbial; indeed, it is carried to such excess, as the sleepy sloth suspended from its tree, and the
to become ridiculous. This part of the tour should python writhing its enormous coils.
on no account be missed, as the inhabitants of There is a good Museum of stuffed animals above
this isolated neck of land are most original in
dress and manners. the concert hall, where also is a striking portrait of the present King of Holland. The Botanical
If time be no object, we should advise the
tourist to make a boat excursion to the islands of Garden close by is scarcely worth a visit, though
fhe Zuider Zee, and a further tour through the the admission is but 25 cents. Some noble palms, a fine specimen of “Testudinaria Elephantipas,
provinces of Friesland, Gronigen, and Ooeryssel,
which are not here touched upon. and the “Victoria Regina," are the principal
This would rarities. A call might be made at Mr. Coster's
occupy another week, but would amply repay the
traveller in search of the uncommon and the diamond workshops, where admission can at all times be obtained on application: of course, fee the picturesque.
The steamer returns to Amsterdam in time to attendant. The sang froid with which the workmen handle the gems is astonishing; but though
allow a couple of hours to be spent at the Tripapparently careless of these precious adornments penhuis, where the pictures are almost unsurpassof rank, it is very rarely that a diamond is lost.
able for beauty and variety ; Rembrandt's “Night
Guard" and "Syndics;" Van Helst's “Banquet;" Here will be shewn models of the most noted diamonds. Six hundred men are employed in this
“Portraits of a Gentleman and Lady," by Gerard establishment, their pay varying from one to four
Dow (the Landscape by Berchem); "The Night pounds a week. Among them is the good School,” by the same painter; Terburg's "Satin humoured polisher of the Koh-i-noor, who may
Gown," and a score other chefs d'ouvre attract and
enchant the connoisseur. be seen seated busily engaged at his fascinating work. The gems mostly are brought from Brazil,
The Fodor Gallery of Pictures should likewise and only the best are fashioned here; rose
be visited, and then you may bid adieu to Amdiamonds are sent to Antwerp to be cut and sterdam, and take the evening train to Utrecht. polished. The polishing lathes are turned by a See BRADSHAW's Continental Railway Guide. splendid steam engine, which can be seen upon The cleanliness of the houses everywhere, but the ground floor. On Thursdays, the men being specially in this part of Holland, cannot but Jews, work fifteen hours to make up for Saturday, delight tho traveller. The inns are perhaps the wbich is their Sabbath. The number of Jews in worst specimens of Dutch housekeepiug; Freucite
and Germani männers and customs prevall in them,
UTRECĒT Station. with foreign servants; but even in the hotels this Population, 60,000.- Hotels: Pays Bas; Beile national characteristic is observable. Elsewhere, Vue; Kasteel v. Antwerpen.-Cafe: Vergulde it is quite invigorating to notice the cleansing Poortije (Golden Gate), near the Neude. which takes place on Wednesdays and Saturdays. This is admitted to be a very ancient place, as Neat active girls in pretty tight-fitting caps, short testified by its various early names, Antonia petticoats (devoid of crinoline), and good strong | Civitas, Trajectum ad Rhenum, Ulterius Trajectum, sabots, painted white, may be seen in every of which the modern name is a corruption. direction, polishing windows, scouring kettles, The city is well situated on higher ground than washing doorsteps, and rubbing furniture with is usual in Holland. The enclosed canals, with an energy and good will that put to shame the covered passages from the houses, the grave lazy sluts and fine lady-servants so often seen demeanour of the people (especially on Sunday, in England.
which is kept as strictly as in England), and a Should the tourist be in Amsterdam at the pure bracing atmosphere distinguish Utrecht from arrival of the first draught of herrings of the the other towns previously visited. season, about the beginning of July, the fish- The first thing in the morning the Cathedral mongers' shops will attract his notice, for on this should be visited; it is a fine gothic remnant, with occasion they are gaily decorated with flags; and a splendid Tower, from the top of which, 320 feet a crown of leaves and flowers with a dried herring high, the divided Rhine and twenty towns are visipendant, hangs over the door. The first herring ble. This Cathedral is remarkable for its having of the season, is presented with some ceremony to been actually cut in twain by the blast of a hurrithe King, who gives a boon of 500 guilders on the cane in 1674. In the cloisters are collected some occasion. At the fish shops may also sometimes | interesting portraits of old professors of the be seen a small river fish, from whose scales false University, which institution is one of the chief pearls are largely manufactured.
lions of Utrecht. The library and museum are The pavilions or summer houses in the gardens well worth attentive examination. There is a outside Amsterdam, have something very Chinese good collection of wax preparations of anatomy, in their appearance. In these oriental-looking very curious and interesting to the scientific. retreats, the owners may be seen drinking tea or The botanical garden, the mint, and the obcoffee, of which the Dutch are very fond, and in- servatory, are almost the only other points of dulging in a cigar or pipe. Smoking is almost moment. universal; children of tender years ask for a fusee
The old Town Hall (Het Huis Van Loo) is now with an assurance, that is the result of habit, and a barracks: here the celebrated Treaty of peace which would deeply scandalise "paterfamilias" which brought to a close the war of the Spanish among his boys at home. Another resemblance
succession was signed in 1719. to Chinese customs is the large floating popula- There is a fine avenue of old limetrees (Malietion in the vicinity of Amsterdam (as at Nankin); bann), which cannot fail to please the visitor to there are, as it were, villages of boats, whose in- Utrecht. A walk round the ramparts will indeed be habitants obtain their living by fishing, and found delightful, the combination of wood, water, vending fruit and vegetables. At Hoorn again, and verdant meadows being most agreeable to the It is said there is a festival, which is similar to the
eye. Here the tourist may chance to see passing Chinese feast of lanterns. It is also noticeable along the road by the canal side one of those smartly as having given name to Cape Horn. The family painted, carved (and even gilded) carts in which seats of Counts Hoorn and Egmont, the patriot the Dutch farmer takes a pride. These vehicles leaders, beheaded by Alva, were in the neighbour- are quite like triumphal cars, tilted up rather, and hood. The old town of Alkmaar, where the drawn by heavy but handsome horses with proround Dutch cheeses are shipped, and the Texel, fusion of mane and tail; the driver sits in front may be visited from Amsterdam.
floarishing his wbip and smoking eternally like a
volcano. In the streets, again, are to be met | land. As the boats leave the “Boompjes" at quaintly dressed school children; an occasional various hours, according to the tide, it would be peasant woman, in lace cap and ornaments, bear- necessary to examine one of the packet bills, which ing a yoke across her shoulders, from which are hung up at almost every railway station, to depend brightly furnished milk cans that shine ascertain the hour of departure, and so regulate like gold; or perhaps the active “ Aanspreker" the journey from Utrecht; or if preferred, the trips along in his cocked hat and black scarf, boat may be taken at Rotterdam to Moerdyk an official who is a perambulatory gazette, going station, thence by train to Antwerp (see from house to house to announce births and deaths. Route 4), and so the ten days' tour we have
In Utrecht are everywhere found traces of Louis sketched through Holland may be indefinitely Quatorze, and of the struggle of the Dutch against extended through Belgium and up the Rhine, &c. French rule. Holland may justly be proud of the (See BRADSHAW'8 Continental Guide and Hand-book.) noble and heroic stand she has ever maintained
ARNHEM Station. for liberty and independence. Her sufferings are The distance from Utrecht to Arnhem by rail is remembered to be wondered at and revered, 88 miles; the trains take 13 hour, Pop., 29,000. while the name of the great Monarch of France is Hotels: Hotel de Belle Vue is one of the best tarnished by that petty spite which ordered the hotels on the Rhine, in every respect. The Sun; destruction of the dykes. The mock-hero was Bear's Head. incompetent to apprehend the heroic people he SIGHTS.Groote Kerk (the great church); the had injured, and returned home, as Voltaire Town Hall; the Park and Grounds of Hartjesberg, observed, “with the deplorable glory of having entrance near the railway station. From this old destroyed one of the masterpieces of human capital of Guelderland, a short excursion may be ingenuity."
made to Zutphen, where Sir P. Sidney was killed, The Jansenists, or Dutch Catholics, as they call and Deventer, which figured in the Dutch war themselves, being unacknowledged by Rome, have for freedom, in Queen Elizabeth's time. Within & a quarter to themselves in Utrecht. Their church, short distance are Saansbeek Castle; Bronbeek a pretty building with the simple inseription "To House, for invalid soldiers from India, containing God," stands in the midst of modest houses with pictures and curiosities; and Middagten Castle, a neat gardens.
seat of the Bentinck family, who are kin to the After dinner drive to Zeist, a most delightful Duke of Portland. Loo, the King's country seat, spot, where a Moravian community have settled,
is 20 miles distant, near Aspeldoorn. and where they hold their schools, and carry on
IV. their unostentatious charities, amidst the most
ROUTES IN THE CEDED DISTRICTS OF charming wooded scenery,
LORRAINE AND ALSACE, The train may be taken from Utrecht to Colog
(Called Lothringen and Elsass, in German; on the if it be intended to proceed up the Rhine; or if to west bank of the Rhine, now annexed to Germany.) England or Belgium, there is a train at nine The ceded districts under the Franco-German o'clock a.m. to
treaty, ratified 2nd March, 1871, include the departGoudą, Station, which place is reached in ments of Haut and Bas-Rhin, comprising Alsace, about half an hour. The tourist should book his with a population of 1,000,000 ; Moselle, or East' luggage to Rotterdam, as he will only stop at Lorraine, and part of Meurthe, with a population Gouda till the next train. Notice the old Town of 360,000; making a total population of 1,360,000, Hall, and the large Church, with its 31 large stained and an area of 6,250 English square miles. The glass windows, as beautiful as any in Europe, and new boundary takes in Metz, Thionville, Strastherefore well worth the delay.
burg (the capital of the new German province), At one o'clook proceed to Rotterdam, which will Colmar, Muhlhausen, and nearly follows the be reached ime to get dinner, and to have the course of the Seille and the crest of the Vosgeg luggage comfortably on board the packet for Eng? mountains
to the house of Lorraine. art of the palace is
seen; besides an Hôtel de Ville of the timo of From Avricourt to Strasburg.
Louis XIV., a college, &c. (Paris and Strasburg Railway.)
Marshal Lobau, General Gérard, &c., were born For the first part of this line up to Ember- here. Excellent noyeau is made. Population, monil, near the German frontier, see BRADBHAW'S 4,900. Hand-book to France.
M. Erckmann, joint author with M. Chatrian of Avricourt Station (5 miles) is not far from the Conscript, Waterloo, The Plébescite, &c., resides Blamont (15 kil.), near the head of the Vezouze, here.] under the Vosges range (in one of whose gorges is Four more tunnels succeed, respectively 1,417, the glass works of St. Quiren), which has a ruined 1,296, 1,640, and 1,009 feet in length. You catch castle, and gave birth to Regnier, Duke of Massa. | glimpses of various feudal towers and ruined Several lakes are near. Through a forest, to castles crowning the tops of the mountain ranges,
Heming Station (84 miles), where the northern among which the Hohen-Barr and Géroldseck are road from Nancy falls in.
the most picturesque. Sarrebourg (5 miles), & sous-préfecture of Saverne Station (5$ miles), down the east 2,500 souls, and military post on the Sarre, in Ger- slant of the Vosges (towards the Rhine), in a man Lorraine, in a pass of the Vosges, divided charming spot on the Zorn, is a sous-préfecture into upper and lower town. It belonged to the in Alsace (late department Bas-Rhin), having 6,400 Archbishops of Metz and Dukes of Lorraine, came souls, and belonged to the bishops of Strasburg, to France 1661, and back to Germany 1871. Most whose handsome seat here is now a barrack. The of it was rebuilt after the fire of 1461. Here are church a high square tower. Copper goods large military storehouses. It was the Pons Sarave are made. of Roman geographers, and coins have been found. Hotel: De la Poste, Levasseur, & deputy to the Legislative Assembly, It is said to have taken its name from the old was born here.
tabernae, or resting place, distributed through the The rail now traverses the Vosges mountains by valley. The hill at the top of the spiral road above # series of tunnels, the first of which is Hommar- the town commands a fine prospect over Alsace ting, 8,787 feet, the greatest work of the kind on and Strasburg Minster. Coaches to Marmontiers, the line. It enters the mountains to the left of Wasselone, Mutzig, Molsheim. the Marne and Rhine Canal, on a level with it, [At 6 kil. south is MARMONTIERS, with an ancient but comes out to the right of it, and 39 feet lower, abbey church of the tenth century.] having passed by an incline under the canal. It
Steinbourg Station (34 miles), on the Zorn. then crosses the rocky gorge of the Zorn (which
Coach to Neuwiller, which has a seat built by the the canal passes on an aqueduct), to a second
Duke of Feltre, on the site of Hunebourg château. tunnel of 804 feet.
Dettwiller Station (24 miles), lower down the Lützelbourg Station (101 miles) whose ruined
Zorn. castle overlooks the valley. It stands near the summit of the Vosges. Coach to Phalsbourg.
Hochfelden Station (57 miles). Coach to
Bouxviller. [PHALSBOURG or PFALSBURG (4 miles northnorth-east), a fortified fort, on a rock, where
Monmenheim Station (3} miles), on the plain English prisoners were kept in the war. The
of Alsace. citadel, built by Vauban to command a pass of the Brumath Station (2} miles), where the rail Vosges, capitulated to the Germans 12th Decem- turns off from the Zorn, is the ancient Brocomagus, hor, 1870. It was called Einartyhausen, before and is near the foundling hospital of Stephans1570, when the Prince Palatine of Velden rebuilt folden, founded 1220. Hore the Austrians were it under its modern pame; it came afterwards I defeated, 1798.
Vendenheim Station (44 miles), where the place of 8,000 souls, as old as the seventh century, but branch line to Weissenburg turns off. About 5 dismantled after the treaty of Münster. Coach to miles further is
Barr (11 kil. west-north-west), a Protestant towni STRASBURG, 312} miles from Paris. See of 4,600 population, in a delightful hollow, under Route 27.
the Kirchberg, Hohenburg, Monkalb, and other ROUTE B.
heights. The old castle is replaced by a Hôtel
de Ville, built 1640. Woollen mittens and socks Strasburg to Mulhouse, Basle, &c.
are made. Andlau (south-west of Barr) among Up the Rhine by railway. Distance 139 kil., or vine-covered hills, is another pretty spot, near 89 miles; 31 to 54 hours. Terminus, near Porte de Hohe-Andlau castle, a conspicuous ruin, on a hill, Saverne.
once the seat of a very old Alsace family. Here The railway passes up the valley of the Ill, was an abbey, founded by the wife of the Emperor which receives innumerable streams from the Charles the Fat. Vosges mountains to the west, through its prin- Kogenheim Station (31 miles), on the Ill. cipal branches, the Eger, Andlau, Scheer, &c. "Heim," in these names is literally "home." Between the Ill and Rhine is the Rhine and Rhône Ebersheim Station (2 miles), has a buffet, canal, which has a branch to Bâle, and joins the and a conveyance to Dambach, near Bernstein Saône at Dijon.
castle. Towards the Rhine are the three slender Geispolsheim Station (7 miles), on the Eger, towers of Ebermünster church, whose abbey was once a fortress. Population, 8,220. Dachstein, 12 founded in the seventh century. It has some very kil.off, on the Ill, was a fortress taken by Turenne, old frescoes and wood carving. 1674. Further off are Molsheim and Mutzig, where Schlettstadt Station (41 miles), on the Ill, a they manufacture ribbons, fire-arms, &c.
sous-préfecture of 10,360 population, and an old Fegersheim Station (14 miles), near the Ili free city of Alsace, called Electus, by the Romans and Andlau. Rosheim (15 kil. west), in a pretty rebuilt 1216, taken by Louis XIV., 1673, and fortiposition on the Magel, is a walled town of 4,000 fied by Vauban. It capitulated to the Germans 24th souls.
October, 1870. The chief buildings are St. George's Limersheim Station (2} miles).
Gothic church of the fourteenth century, with a Erstein Station (2} miles), on the Ill, was a square tower, 187 feet high; the Recollets' church; fortress in the stormy times of the Empire, like public library, with some early printed books; tho most other places in this frontier land. Population, college at the old commandery of Malta, near the 3,690. Coach to Obernay (12 kil. west-north-west), round church of St. Foi, built 1094, by a crusader, which lies on the Andlau, above Neidernay, and is on the plan of the Holy Sepulchre; the arsenal; ill built, with a population of 5,100 souls, who the old fause porte or belfry tower, in the Gothic make calicoes, &c. It has an old château, and a style; new corn market and tobacco factory. Gothic tower, called Kappelen Thurm. Further Martin Bucer (or Kulborn), was a native. The up the Vosges you come to the Hochfeld and Giessen passes by on the north, from the Vosges Odilienberg, near the Waldersbach, the scene of mountains, which are in view. Manufactures of Oberlin's labours. Odilienberg is a favourite pil- pottery (enamelled pottery was invented here in grim's chapel, founded by St. Odile, daughter of a the twelfth century), metallic gauze, iron and duke of Alsace, on a height which commands a
copper, &c., are carried on. view of almost to Basle. There are several fine Hotels : De Bouc (Goat); de l'Aigle d'Or ruins about it, as the castles of Rathsamhausen, (Golden Eagle). Landsberg, and Andlau, and Truttenhausen con- Branch rail to St. Marie-aux-Mines. Coaches vent.
St. Die, Epinal, Nancy, &c. Orschwiller (6 kil. Matzenheim Station (8 miles), on the Ill. west north-west), is in the neighbourhood of the - Benfeld Station (27 miles), also on the Ill, in Ramstein and Ortenberg towers, of Kirtzheim and no centre of the tobacco cultivation, and a small its castle, and under the fine old castle of Hoho