Or a name Boerhaave, Lipsius, Gronovius, Voss, Heinsius, Meursius, &c. buttons, white neckerchief and gloves; the girls, | been professors at the Leyden University we may black woollen frocks with short sleeves, long white mittens, neckerchief and close cap hiding the hair. After dinner, if it be a fine evening, walk to the Palace in the Wood (Huis in 't Bosch). It is filled with pictures and fine furniture. At the "Societeit," in the wood, concerts are held during the summer evenings, Sundays and Wednesdays. very agreeable drive may be taken to Ryswyk and Wateringen. At the first village the Treaty of Peace was concluded in 1697; an obelisk marks the site of the house in which this document was signed by the representatives of England, Holland, France, and Spain. At Wateringen the great peat beds may be seen, whence so many tons of fuel are yearly excavated. The scenery about here is extremely pleasing; vineyards and orchards and neat-country houses make this district (Westland) the garden of Holland. There is a Theatre at the Hague, where French and Dutch plays are performed, but it is small and not worth visiting, except to fill up a wet evening. LEYDEN Station. Population, 40,000. Hotels: Du Lion d'Or; Du Soleil d'Or; Ryland; Belle Vue; Verhaaf. Café Zomerzong. The Lugdunum Batavorum of the Romans, called the oldest town in Holland, near the mouth of the Old Rhine. Between 9 and 10 o'clock in the morning there is a train which runs from the Hague to Leyden in less than half-an-hour. The contrast between the two towns is very striking. The Hague is comparatively gay and Frenchified. Leyden is German in style, quiet, if not dull. The luggage may be left at the station, in the care of a porter (the ticket need not be given up), and an omnibus runs into the town. The houses are lofty, the streets clean, and the fine canals are bordered with trees. The Town House is a splendid structure of the fifteenth century. This, and the two large Churches which bear a strong family likeness to all the others in Holland, are the first things to be Then comes the famous University with its noble library, where many curious MSS. and some interesting portraits of the old professors may be noticed. Among the illustrious men who have seen. Among other objects here is a singular engraving of the old library, representing the books chained to the desks, as they used to be in English churches. This university was founded by that palladium of Protestantism, William the Silent, whose influence meets one at every part of this thoroughly Protestant land. After the awful siege of 1573 when Leyden was relieved only by the desperate expedient of letting in the sea upon the Spanish army, William offered to remit the taxation of the town or to found a university; and the brave and highminded people at once chose the latter boon. Coins, with the inscription :-" Deus servet Leiden," were struct during the glorious defence of this city, and are preserved in the museum of the Hague. The collection of antiquities and specimens of Natural History which are attached to the university are wonderfully rich, and would occupy hours to be properly examined; but to the generality of tourists Dr. Siebold's Japanese Museum will be found most attractive. It has been said that those who have seen this museum have seen Japan. Siebold was an eminent naturalist, who was attached to the Medical Staff of the Dutch East India Company from 1822 to 1830. He suffered imprisonment in the interest of science, and has enriched not his native country (Wurzburg in Germany), but Holland with his gleanings in Japan, which extend to almost every department that can interest the inquirer. A month would be required to get a good notion of the contents of this museum, unique of its kind, and offering specimens of the arms, arts, literature, religion, costumes, &c., of that remarkable people. If the traveller has time a stroll in the Botanic Gardens will be found very gratifying. Descartes the philosopher, whose statue is at the Hague, in the Willems Park, lived about two leagues from Leyden. His house, surrounded by Boertrees, is on the road going towards the sea. haave the naturalist's house is in the same direction. Rembrandt, Gerard Dow, and Mieris, the painter were natives of Leyden or the neighbourhood. Should the traveller be so fortunate as to be in Leyden about the time of any of the historical fêtes held by the university students, it would be worth In The delaying a day to be present. The time could be filled up by an excursion to Katwyk to see the great sluices where the Rhine falls into the sea. rough weather the waves here make dreadful incursions, and eighty houses are said to have been swept away in fifteen years. When the sea is high they open the first sluice to allow the waves some little play. At low water the remains of an ancient Roman castle may be traced in the mud. students' fêtes, of which we are speaking, were kept up also in great style at Delft, Utrecht, &c. The Kermeses, or fairs, likewise would be worth stopping to witness, as the peasantry on such occasions throng the town in their holiday garb, and are themselves quite a spectacle. The rings, chains, necklaces, and head ornaments worn by the women are remarkably curious and often of considerable worth. At these Kermeses little pancakes ("Pouffenkissen "), "Gauffres," and pickled cucumbers, and lemons, and dried ells seem to take the place of our English ginger-breads, nuts, and faring. Whirligo-rounds, which turn to the music of a barrel organ concealed in the centre; booths for the sale of ornamental objects, and shows of all kinds block up the streets, and afford an incalculable fund of entertainment to the foreigner. HAARLEM Station. Population, 31,000.-Hotels: Lion d'Or; The Crown; the landlady speaks English. Des Armes de Amsterdam; Leeuweryk (Lark); Logemant Van Houtmann. Café Restaurants: Nord end Zud Mandsche Koffijhuis. The Buffet at the Railway Station is good. The afternoon train would bring the tourist on to Haarlem, and the omnibus would take him from the station to the Golden Lion Hotel, which is conveniently situated in the middle of the town. While dinner is being prepared, the Church with its renowned organ could be visited, which, however, can only be heard on payment of a sovereign (twelve guilders), excepting on Thursdays, from one to two o'clock, when there is a public performance, scarcely worth attending, as the people walk about and make such a noise that the music eannot be heard. Bilderdijk, the poet, lies buried in this church. On payment of a florin and a-half (2s. 6d.), the tower may be ascended, whence the view is extensive. In the Square is Laurence Coster's statue, erected in 1836, and his workshop, with the inscription, "Costeri ades Typographæ Natalis." Admission may then be obtained to the Town House (in the square), where several of Coster's early books are preserved, "Speculum Salvationis Humanæ," "Ars Moriendi," &c. The picture of the siege in the Hall was presented to the town by an Englishman, Mr. Wilson. It represents the heroic defence of the city against the Spaniards, in 1572, when Dame Kenan Harselaer and a band of three hundred women helped in the war for independence, and for more than six months held the enemy at bay. Some curious old historical portraits are preserved here, and from the roof is suspended the monstrous rib of a whale. An evening stroll on the outskirts of the town will be found very agreeable. The old gates and the shattered ramparts cannot fail to awaken sympathy for those brave men and women who so gloriously perished in defence of their altar and their hearth. The Teyler Museum will occupy the following morning. It is open only two days in the week, but strangers desirous of examining its contents may generally do so by means of a silver key. Pictures, books, and a rare collection of fossils, will pass away an hour very agreeably. This may be followed by a walk to the Pavilion in the Park, but a short distance from the town, where a very nice miscellaneous collection of pictures are shewn (the fee, half a florin, 10d.) The "Battle of Waterloo" is usually much admired, but it is by no means the gem of the gallery. The palace itself is small, but rather elegant, and the Park is charming, with fine old timber and herds of stately deer. Round Haarlem may be seen some of the famous nurseries for flowers. Tulips and hyacinths are still much cultivated and esteemed, a tulip root sometimes fetching as much as £80 or £90, but the notorious mania for these flowers has long since ceased. It is said, indeed, never to have been anything but a mere stock jobbing gambling. The celebrated bulb "Semper Augustus," for which fortunes changed hands, was actually never seen in bloom. To be dazzled by these floral treasures it is proper to be in Holland at the end of April or the beginning of May; then the blue eyes of the "Amiable Shepherdess" gaze kindly upon the spectator, and "Admiral Tromp "blazes in triumph. Returning through the town, Dutch inscriptions may be noticed upon some of the old houses. These record the reverses of fortune which befel their owners during the great Tulip Mania. Hals and Wouverman, the painters, lived here. AMSTERDAM Station. Population 275,000.-Hotels: Amstel Hotel-A new hotel, opened in 1867 affords excellent accommodation. Brack's Doelen Hotel, one of the best in Holland. Hardenberg's Old Bible Hotel is a well conducted house, much frequented by English and American gentlemen. Onde Graf, Stad Elberfeld, Keizerskton, Rondeel, Hass. Restaurants:-Jonge Graaf, Ebel, Van Laar, Kohaus, Cour de Gueldre, Hannier, Winkelhagen, Ville de Munich. Cafés:-Ville de Nuremberg, Poolsche, Koffijhuis, Winkelhagen, Niewe, Koffij huis. The afternoon trains run in half-an-hour to Amsterdam. The space of green meadow on the right as you leave Haarlem was formerly the great lake "Haarlemmer Meer," which, within the last quarter century, was a vast sheet of stormy waters, but has been drained by the aid of powerful steam engines. The numerous sunken fields ("polders") which we see all over Holland, some of them as much as 15 feet below the level, are drained, cach spring, in similar manner by means of the ubiquitous windmills. As the train journeys on, Zaandam appears on the left, with its fleet of windmills that seem to float upon the broad estuary of the river Y (sounded I). Windmills abound everywhere: they are a distinctive feature of Holland, and the neighbourhood of Amsterdam seems especially favoured by them. An omnibus runs to the hotel from the railway station (fare, 30 cents). The evening can be spent at one of the open air concerts, which are frequently held at the Zoological Gardens, and at the public gardens outside the Haarlem Gate. People sit about under the trees and take tea and coffee, and listen to a tolerable band of tuusic. [By all means visit Frascati's, where concerts are held. It is situated in the Nes.-R. S. C.] The gallery of paintings n the Oude Mannen Huis, called the Van der Hoop Museum, should first engage attention next morning. The pictures are many of them wonderfully fine, and the gallery is very quiet and well-arranged. Some exquisite fruit and flower pieces are here, several good Italian pictures, and such specimens of the Dutch school as one rarely sees out of Holland. A small fee is charged for admission. Thence walk on straight down to the harbour, near which is a capital view of that quarter of the town, from the bridge over the Amstel. The Zeemanshoop, an asylum for sailors, and an asylum for the aged on the Amstel quay should be observed. In returning back by the road from the railway station. will be observed the Cathedral, whose chimes are delicious; the Bourse (admission 25 cents) and the Royal Palace, built upon 13,659 piles, entrance to which can be obtained by application and a fee. Good water is a rarity and a difficulty at Amsterdam. It is conveyed in pipes from a reservoir, six kilometres from Haarlem. It is also brought from the little river Vecht in boats called leggers. Though without striking monuments, the whole place is so remarkable that the general impression is favourable. The Quays along the Zuider Zee are admirable, and the canals add to the novelty of the scene. Principal squares-The Dam and the Botermarkt. The new Crystal Palace (Paleis voor Volksvlijt), 440 feet long, is near the Utrecht Gate. Passing on through Kalvert Street, which is the Regent Street (on a narrow scale) of Amsterdam, remark on the right hand a building at the corner of a street, having handsome gates and a good deal of carving and decoration in front. This is the Burger Weeshuis (orphan asylum), whose youthful inmates will probably have been remarked in the streets, their costumes being singular, half black and half red. The hero, Van Speijk, was bred up in this institution. A picture of his blowing up his gun-boat rather than allow the Dutch flag to fall into the hands of the Belgians in 1831, records his bravery, and is preserved here with just pride. A public monument was also erected in the city to perpetuate the honourable part taken by the Dutch at that period. The numerous Institutions for orphans, the aged, the destitute, the blind, the deaf and dumb cannot fail to impress the stranger with admiration for this provident and charitable nation. The absence of beggars also is noticeable, the principal importunities being from industrious shoe blacks and eager commissionnaires. Turning down a street to the right, the market square will be reached, where there is a statue of Rembrandt, the painter, who was a native of Amsterdam. It is not very far from here to the Zoological Gardens, which contain fine specimens, and are everywhere in beautiful condition and order. The rare salamanders of Japan may be examined here, the enormous hippopotami may be seen dining off black bread and a salad of grass, the sleepy sloth suspended from its tree, and the python writhing its enormous coils. There is a good Museum of stuffed animals above the concert hall, where also is a striking portrait of the present King of Holland. The Botanical Garden close by is scarcely worth a visit, though the admission is but 25 cents. Some noble palms, a fine specimen of "Testudinaria Elephantipas," and the "Victoria Regina," are the principal rarities. A call might be made at Mr. Coster's diamond workshops, where admission can at all times be obtained on application: of course, fee the attendant. The sang froid with which the workmen handle the gems is astonishing; but though apparently careless of these precious adornments of rank, it is very rarely that a diamond is lost. Here will be shewn models of the most noted diamonds. Six hundred men are employed in this establishment, their pay varying from one to four pounds a week. Among them is the good humoured polisher of the Koh-i-noor, who may be seen seated busily engaged at his fascinating work. The gems mostly are brought from Brazil, and only the best are fashioned here; rose diamonds are sent to Antwerp to be cut and polished. The polishing lathes are turned by a splendid steam engine, which can be seen upon the ground floor. On Thursdays, the men being Jews, work fifteen hours to make up for Saturday, which is their Sabbath. The number of Jews in x-(Belgium) Holland is remarkable. In almost every town may be observed their synagogues and their cemeteries, with simple tombs bearing Hebrew inscriptions. After dinnner visit the sluices, and walk upon the dykes, round the harbour-side of the town. This will give a clear idea of the difficulties the Dutch have overcome. The city lies so low that it is a marvel how the water is kept out. We may remind the tourist that Admiral Ruyter and Vondel, the poet, both lived in Amsterdam. Next morning take the half-past seven o'clock steamboat for Zaandam, and break fast there at the Café, close to the landing stage. After inspecting Peter the Great's hut, start for Broek and Buicksloot. The carriage costs six florins (10s.), with "trinkgeld" for the driver. The extreme cleanliness of Broek (or Brook), has become proverbial; indeed, it is carried to such excess, as to become ridiculous. This part of the tour should on no account be missed, as the inhabitants of this isolated neck of land are most original in dress and manners. If time be no object, we should advise the tourist to make a boat excursion to the islands of fhe Zuider Zee, and a further tour through the provinces of Friesland, Gronigen, and Ooeryssel, which are not here touched upon. This would occupy another week, but would amply repay the traveller in search of the uncommon and the picturesque. The steamer returns to Amsterdam in time to allow a couple of hours to be spent at the Trippenhuis, where the pictures are almost unsurpassable for beauty and variety; Rembrandt's "Night Guard" and "Syndics;" Van Helst's "Banquet;" "Portraits of a Gentleman and Lady," by Gerard Dow (the Landscape by Berchem); "The Night School," by the same painter; Terburg's "Satin Gown," and a score other chefs d'œuvre attract and enchant the connoisseur. The Fodor Gallery of Pictures should likewise be visited, and then you may bid adieu to Amsterdam, and take the evening train to Utrecht.See BRADSHAW's Continental Railway Guide. The cleanliness of the houses everywhere, but specially in this part of Holland, cannot but delight the traveller. The inns are perhaps the worst specimens of Dutch housekeeping; French and German manners and customs prevail in them, with foreign servants; but even in the hotels this national characteristic is observable. Elsewhere, it is quite invigorating to notice the cleansing which takes place on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Neat active girls in pretty tight-fitting caps, short petticoats (devoid of crinoline), and good strong sabots, painted white, may be seen in every direction, polishing windows, scouring kettles, washing doorsteps, and rubbing furniture with an energy and good will that put to shame the lazy sluts and fine lady-servants so often seen in England. Should the tourist be in Amsterdam at the arrival of the first draught of herrings of the season, about the beginning of July, the fishmongers' shops will attract his notice, for on this occasion they are gaily decorated with flags; and a crown of leaves and flowers with a dried herring pendant, hangs over the door. The first herring of the season, is presented with some ceremony to the King, who gives a boon of 500 guilders on the occasion. At the fish shops may also sometimes be seen a small river fish, from whose scales false pearls are largely manufactured. UTRECHT Station. Population, 60,000.-Hotels: Pays Bas; Belle Vue; Kasteel v. Antwerpen.-Café: Vergulde Poortije (Golden Gate), near the Neude. This is admitted to be a very ancient place, as testified by its various early names, Antonia Civitas, Trajectum ad Rhenum, Ulterius Trajectum, of which the modern name is a corruption. The city is well situated on higher ground than is usual in Holland. The enclosed canals, with covered passages from the houses, the grave demeanour of the people (especially on Sunday, which is kept as strictly as in England), and a pure bracing atmosphere distinguish Utrecht from the other towns previously visited. The first thing in the morning the Cathedral should be visited; it is a fine gothic remnant, with a splendid Tower, from the top of which, 320 feet high, the divided Rhine and twenty towns are visible. This Cathedral is remarkable for its having been actually cut in twain by the blast of a hurricane in 1674. In the cloisters are collected some interesting portraits of old professors of the University, which institution is one of the chief lions of Utrecht. The library and museum are well worth attentive examination. There is a good collection of wax preparations of anatomy, very curious and interesting to the scientific. The botanical garden, the mint, and the ob moment. The old Town Hall (Het Huis Van Loo) is now a barracks: here the celebrated Treaty of peace which brought to a close the war of the Spanish succession was signed in 1719. The pavilions or summer houses in the gardens outside Amsterdam, have something very Chinese in their appearance. In these oriental-looking retreats, the owners may be seen drinking tea or coffee, of which the Dutch are very fond, and in-servatory, are almost the only other points of dulging in a cigar or pipe. Smoking is almost universal; children of tender years ask for a fusee with an assurance, that is the result of habit, and which would deeply scandalise "paterfamilias" among his boys at home. Another resemblance to Chinese customs is the large floating population in the vicinity of Amsterdam (as at Nankin); there are, as it were, villages of boats, whose inhabitants obtain their living by fishing, and vending fruit and vegetables. At Hoorn again, it is said there is a festival, which is similar to the Chinese feast of lanterns. It is also noticeable as having given name to Cape Horn. The family seats of Counts Hoorn and Egmont, the patriot leaders, beheaded by Alva, were in the neighbourhood. The old town of Alkmaar, where the round Dutch cheeses are shipped, and the Texel, may be visited from Amsterdam. There is a fine avenue of old limetrees (Maliebann), which cannot fail to please the visitor to Utrecht. A walk round the ramparts will indeed be found delightful, the combination of wood, water, and verdant meadows being most agreeable to the eye. Here the tourist may chance to see passing along the road by the canal side one of those smartly painted, carved (and even gilded) carts in which the Dutch farmer takes a pride. These vehicles are quite like triumphal cars, tilted up rather, and drawn by heavy but handsome horses with profusion of mane and tail; the driver sits in front flourishing his whip and smoking eternally like a |