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risk, and not only impart & pleasurable sensation •xoursions inland, and the return to the same op at the time, but likewire a feeling of bien étro for some other village to take the ap or down steamer, the romainder of the day,
Or the traveller may make agreeable excursions by The Baths are placed in the lower storey of the leaving the steamer occasionally at intervals, as it old and New Badhaus, and must be heated for approaches the bends of the river, and then by bathing, as the water is only 80° Fahrenheit in taking the road across the points he will frequently
obtain beautiful views from the summits of the temperature. A band of music plays daily on the promenade, bills, and then come to the point where the steamer
will take him up. and there are no gaming tables.
The traveller, however, should previously aseerEnglish Church service in the Duke of Nassau's
tain that by doing so he will loose no finer scenery Chapel, during the season.
on the river. Conveyances to Eltville, Wiesbaden, Schwalbach, After leaving Coblenz the Srst place worthy of Ems, &c.
notice is Moselweiss on the right bank, where II.
there are large public gardens. Above this village
rise the fortifications of Fort Alexander, one of the THE MOSELLE FROM COBLENZ
advanced forts of Coblenz, situated between the TO TREVES.
Moselle and the Rhine. Travellers who can spare the time to make an Further on we pass on the left tho church of excursion up the Moselle may spend three or four Metternich, the village of Gulls, with its twin days most pleasantly, as the scenery all through spires; then village of Ley on the right, and that the picturesque valley is generally very fine, and of Winningen on the left; after which we como to in several places most exquisite. The banks of the Diebelich on the right-& place said to have boen Moselle are bordered with undulating hills, covered haunted by witches in former times. It is a pretty with vines or thick woods, picturesque little vil- spot, and is pleasantly situated in a charming part lages or small towns, ruins of old castles, watch of the river. towers, and Gothic steeples, most of which are seen Cobern on the left bank, is situated at the point in the most romantic forms imaginable, owing to where the Nodbach falls into the Moselle. The the extraordinary windings of the river.
hills behind the town are crowned with two castles, This river rises in the south-east of the depart
within one of which, the Oderberg, is a beautiful mnent Vosges, in France, runs by Remiremont,
little chapel---which deserves a visit from all adEpinal, Toul, Frouard, Pont Mousson, Metz, and
mirers of graceful architecture. Thionville, separates the duchy of Luxembourg Gondorf, on the left, is another pretty village, from Rhenish Prussia, passes by Trèves, and joins formerly the residence of the Count von Layen, the Rhine, at Coblenz. Its chief affluents in
Catenes.-A village on the same side, just France are the Meurthe and the Seille on the right,
beyond, derives its name from a chain formerly and in the Prussian States the Savre, on the right
placed across to exact toll from the boats going ag and the Surc, the Kyll, and the Elz on the left. It
or down the river. becomes navigable about Metz. Its total course is
Alken, on the right, an old town connected by 265 miles. The best Moselle wines are Scharzhof
several towers with Schloss Turon--a picturesque berger, Scharzbergen, Drauneberger, Pisporter,
old castle, situated on the heights above. Graach, and Zultinger.
Bordenbach.-Further upon the same side is Stcamers leave Coblenz every morning for situated at the entrance of Ehrenbach, a stream Treves, performing the journey in a day and a half,
which, from its singular ravine, no one should omit and come down from Trèves to Coblenz in 10 hours.
visiting. At the commencement this gorge is narAn agreeable way of visiting the most pictu- row, dark, and gloomy, but shortly expands into a rosque spots is to take the steamer up the river to charming valley, with vordant meadows and vineany chosen spot, favourably situated for making yards, streams and water mille, &c., the perspect:
ive in front being closed by a rocky barrier, on the Trabach, a village of 1,800 inhabftants, where heights of which stands the castle of Ehrenberg, the steamer remains during the night. This place said to excel in beauty any other castle on the resembles Cochem in the beauty of its position, Rhine or Moselle.
which is extremely picturesque, and in the dirty We next pass Wortzenfurt on the left, and fur- unwholesome appearance of the streets. It is ther on the same side the castle of Bichofsstein, be
situated at the mouth of the valley, and is enlonging to the Archbishop of Trèves; then Moselkern, circled by a range of hills or mountains. The a village at the entrance of the beautiful vale of
castle on one of these commands the river entirely. Elz.
Between Trabach and Trèves the scenery beIf the traveller lands at Moselkern, crosses the
comes less beautiful, and the villages and towns, hill or strikes across the heights along the side of
with the exception of Berncastle, devoid of interest. the glen, he will obtain several fine views, and then Berncastle.-Hotel Drei König. A town of passing through the romantic valley of the Elz, 2,000 inhabitants. The situation of this town is visit the picturesque and interesting old castle of so fine that most travellers would be tempted to Elz, reputed to be the beau ideal of a feudal fortress stop and visit it, which we advise them not to do, of the middle ages.
as it is both dirty and badly drained. The traveller can then return by the road, direct, The steamer soon arrives at the fine old city of to join the steamer at Carden, a village charmingly Trèves, described in Route 25. situated in one of the sweetest spots of the Moselle. Proceeding on we next pass Treis, on the right
III. side, situated within an amphitheatre of hills, on TEN DAYS' TOUR IN HOLLAND. which there are two castles. Clotten, on the left, a
EMBRACING NEARLY ALL OBJECTS MOST small village with its church on the hill, and the
INTERESTING TO AN ENGLISHMAN. ruins of an old castle. The next place we come to is
Cochem.-Hotels : De L'Union'; Conreich's; Though by no means picturesque, Holland is in Rönischer König. This is an ancient town of 2,500 many respects an interesting country, especially Inhabitants, and the distant view of it, defended by
to Englishmen. It has the cleanest and best two castles on the hills behind, is exceedingly pre
educated population on the continent, and it has possessing and attractive, but the traveller will be shewn what industry can do in defiance of the disappointed in visiting it, as the streets are narrow element. The population are descendants of the and dirty, even more so than the other towns on
ancient Britain, Celtic, and other races. the Moselle.
The surface embraces 596 square geographica A number of villages and small towns of no par- miles, the population amounts to 3,426,140, of ticular note are passed until the steamer reaches whom 1,201,890 are Catholics. The largest cities Punderich, a village on the right bank. Travel- are Amsterdam, population 245,200; Rotterdam, lers intending to visit the interesting ruins of population 112,200; and the Hague, population, Marienburg should land on the opposite side of the 85,000. The imports in 1862 amounted to 445 river. The view from a bill near the ruins affords millions of florins, the exports to 381 millions. one of the finest prospects on the Moselle, embrac- Holland has 400 factories with steam apparatus. ing four different bends of the river, and forming The paper mills are 170, and yield a good article. a splendid panorama. Refreshments can be had It is estimated that Holland has 249,000 horses at a small inn within the ruins.
and 828,000 sheep.
Horticulture receives much Returning to Punderich, the steamer proceeds attention, 3,000,000 florins being devoted to it past the villages of Enrich and Starkenburg on annually. the right bank, and then arrives at Traben on As regards schools, Holland has three universi.
the left. Sun Hotel classes the best. A short ties, sixty-seven gymnasia (or high schools), and distance bigher up on the right bank is
8,350 primary schools, of which 870 are special.
The army numbers 48,735 men, and the navy 85 Custom house officers como on board and Yessels, with 2,000 guns.
examine luggage, but they are extremely civil, A very agreeable ten days' tour may be made in speak English, and give little or no trouble. Holland at a very moderate expense. This country
ROTTERDAM.-See Route 18. is usually slighted by tourists on account of the
Population, 121,000. Before landing, the traveller paramount attractions of the Rhine. It neverthe
should decide on his hotel (for which see BRADless abounds in novelty and interest; and to any
SHAW's Continental Guide). If the name of the one who has but a few days to spare upon a holi
hotel is called out, a man on the quay will at day, it will be found peculiarly accessible and
once come forward, take charge of the luggage, satisfactory.
and conduct the traveller to the house. The bed No passport is requisite, but at Rotterdam, the
rooms on the continent always are furnished with Hague, Leyden, and other places near the coast,
a table and writing apparatus. People usually sit every hotel and café is required to make daily in their rooms and make use of the salle à manger returns of visitors, stating their names, ages, (which answers to our coffee room) only for meals. destination, and so forth. At the principal hotels The keys of the rooms are all numbered. The and railway stations English and French are
traveller should lock his door whenever he goes spoken. The climate in summer is warmer than
out, and hang the key upon the keyboard in the in England. Money is decimal: five cents make hall. He will probably be tormented by the å stiver (or penny); ten stivers make a franc; waiters to buy cigars and eau de cologne. It is twenty stivers (100 cents) make a guilder or florin their perquisite. If he wants either it is as well (one shilling and eightpence); there are notes for
to buy a little of them; but as a rule, he should ten, twenty, thirty guilders, &c., but no gold.
never cumber himself in travelling with things English sovereigns and even £5 notes can be which he does not require. changed for Dutch money at the hotels. You
Breakfast is served in the salle à manger, or in should not change more than you actually want, one's own chamber (at a slightly higher rate).
In as in Holland you change to a disadvantage. Holland both tea and coffee are excellent.
By no The journey from London to Rotterdam may be
means order bacon or fish, or broiled ham and
The performed by steam boats in about 15 or 16 hours.
eggs; they are usually a failure abroad. See BRADSHAW'S Continental Railway Guide.
best thing to have is plain boiled eggs, or cold
meat, or cotelettes aux pommes de terre frites, or an The boats leaving London at 11 in the morning omelette aux herbes fines. The charge for breakgenerally reach the mouth of the Maas about
fast is from a florin to a florin and a half (1s. 8d. half-past two in the morning, and arrive at to 2s. 6d.) Table d'hôte dinner is at four or halfRotterdam between five and six o'clock. Tourists past four; a bell usually rings to call the company therefore, usually see little of the river. This is together. The charge, including ordinary wine, almost to be regretted, for the scenery is not is about two guilders (3s. 4d.) Higher priced devoid of character or interest. The church tower wines can be chosen from the carte de vin. Never of Brielle is on the right as you enter (see Route drink water, it is very bad. The only substitute 18), and several spires and windmills catch the eye is eau de selte. as you voyage on up the stream. The shore is low The hotels in Holland are managed quite in the on either hand, with canal locks here and there, French style. Sixpence a piece is charged for and a few stunted trees. Curious long boats of a candles (bougies) in the room, and about tenpence heavy antiquated build, employed for carrying a day for attendance (service). Guides and compeat, and barges laden with bundles of reeds missionnaires present themselves on arrival, and (arundo arenossa), which are cultivated and cut on can be engaged at two or three guilders per day; the neighbouring sandbanks, and used in the they also address the travellers in the streets; construction of dams against the water, lend a some even offer their services as low as a franc. lazy kind of life to the scene.
Young travellers may find them useful; but to any one accustomed to find his own way about in The Museum, called Boymans, was burned a strange place they are a great bore, half one's down, February 16th, 1864, afterwards rebullt. It enjoyment consisting in the pleasure of exploring contained 472 pictures and 3,000 drawings, includand discovering for oneself.
ing some masterpieces of the Flemish School, most One day is sufficient to see the sights of Rotter
of which were fortunately saved. The Zoological dam. The streets of high tumble-down houses
and Botanic Gardens, may, therefore, be visited and the canals crowded with shipping, and prettily
in the morning. On the way thither there is an bordered with trees, are thoroughly foreign in
opportunity of remarking the English Church, a aspect. The innumerable drawbridges astonish
very ugly, one-sided edifice, near the Rhenish railone, and it is worth stopping for a few minutes to
way station, and the Delft Gate, nigh which there watch the passage of barges deeply laden with
is a striking view of the town, looking up the pottery from Delft, or fish from Katwyk, and to
canal. The other objects of moment are the statue observe the adroit way in which the bridgekeeper
of Erasmus, in the market square, the Bourse, and slings down a leathern purse, attached to a kind
the Hotel de Ville. The collection of pictures at of fishing rod, for the toll of a few cents, which
the Museum is small, but very pleasing. It is, are as adroitly slipped into it by the woman in
however, quite eclipsed by those at the Hague and
at Amsterdam. sabots and a gold necklace at the helm. The people are plain and commonplace, but the
After dinner the park and public gardens might traveller must reserve his opinion of the Dutch,
be visited. A band plays here on Summer evenfor he will leave the country impressed with
ings, and coffee and refreshments can be had. admiration and respect.
Ornamental water, with swans, pretty shrubberies The shops in Rotterdam are tolerably good, but
and plantations, and a statue of Tollens, one of they see too many English not to know how to
the popular poets of Holland, make this spot very charge high. A Turk's head, with a gaping gardens line the road thither, and the great
delightful. A number of very pretty houses and mouth, gaudily painted and set above the door is
Sailors' Home lies to the left. Erasmus died at the sign of a druggist's shop. A Bible carved in stone over the door indicates the deaconries for
Bâle, 1536. The city is justly proud of his charity. Mirrors set at an angle outside the
memory, and preserves with much care his house windows will also catch the stranger's eye; these
in the Breede Kerkstraat, with the inscriptionreflect whatever is passing in the street, and are
“Hæc est parva domus magnus qua natus called "spies."
Erasmus." The Church of St. Lawrence is the principal build
Delft Station. ing in Rotterdam. It is in the centre of the town,
Hotels: Casino; Heerenlogement. and there is a fine prospect from its lofty tower, Population, 22,500. whose chimes are most musical. There are few
Next morning, after breakfast, at Rotterdam, monuments of any interest. A screen of iron
drive to the quay, whence the canal boats (trekwork that would serve for park gates, stretches schuiten) start for Delft. The cab fare is 60 cents across the interior. Fine columns, with carved (1s.) The traveller should remember that if a cab capitals, enclose the nave, which is filled with (vigilante) is hired à la course, and if a stop is chairs and footwarmers, and blocks of heavy made at a shop or elsewhere, though but for a square pews. The organ is enormous, and is minute, a fresh fare will be expected to be paid. painted dull stone colour and white. The general The steam trekschuiten will be found a very comeffect, as of all the churches in Holland, is mono- fortable mode of conveyance. The cabins are large tonous and depressing. The South Church, built and clean, and there is a space on the poops for in 1849, with its Gothic tower, is so much the those who prefer the open air. Outside the town same as St. Lawrence's as to be scarcely worth a the boat steams at the rate of 5 or 6 miles an hour, visit. There are two or three very good Roman and although the pace is tedious, compared with Catholic places of worship.
British express trains, there is a special charmig the calm, silent motion, which harmonises with Little else remains to be seen in Delft except its the flat pastures around, and the grave and courte-potteries, which were in existence as early as tho ous demeanour of the country people.
beginning of the fourteenth century, and were In about an hour after leaving Rotterdam the what they were. From 150 to 200 workmen only
very celebrated; they are now but a shadow of boat will arrive at Delft. The boat fare is about
are employed, and the ware manufactured is very sixpence. As it is only necessary to spend a few
coarse and of little value. The cleanness and hours here, the luggage may be sent on, directed to the hotel at the Hague, or may be left at a
regularity of the streets, the narrow canals running
close to the doors and windows of the houses, and coffee house on the bank.
the evident wonder with which the inhabitants The State Arsenal, formerly the East India regard the advent of foreigners, cannot fail to be
noticed. House, occupies an island on the outskirts of the town. The Old Church, with a leaning tower,
Dinner, or some kind of refreshment, may be will probably be the first object to attract atten
obtained at the coffee-house where the luggage was tion in Delft, and hereabouts the entire interest left, and afterwards the Hague can be reached of the town centres. The interior of this build
either by trekschuite, or by the evening train; tho ing is lofty, vacant, and dull, with tall white
fare in either case being but a few pence. pillars, and a huge putty-coloured organ. Two
THE HAGUE, or three monuments adorn the walls. One, with a bas-relief and Latin inscription, commemorates
Or 'S GRAVENHAGE, in Dutch, the capital of Holthe death and services of Admiral Tromp. The
land; a Station on the Rotterdam and Amsterdam
line. tower reminds one of Caerphilly or Saragossa. It 1s considerably out of the perpendicular. In it
Population, 92,500. Hotels : Balthasar Gerards, the assassin of William the
Hotel Paulez and Hotel de l'Europe.--Capital sulent, was imprisoned. The catastrophe took place houses, well situated, and good. Landlord, Mr.
Paulez. beneath its very shade. Close opposite is the Prinsenhof, now a barrack, with soldiers sitting
Hotel du Vieux Doelen, first-rate, with a splendid and standing about the entrance. Massive walls, dining room for table d'hôte. Mr. Van Santen, pierced with narrow windows, and a rough bas- proprietor. relief over the door, are its distinctive features. The evening of arrival Boer's Bazaar, in tho This was formerly the palace of the Prince of
Zee Straat, might be visited. Here are many Orange; and here that martyr of Protestantism,
curiosities from China and Japan, and a fine colwhose memory all Dutchmen revere, was sacrificed
lection of modern Dutch paintings on sale. The to the villany of a fanatic, July 10th, 1854. On
garden here is very pretty, and close opposite is the staircase an inscription points out the spot on
the Public Park, where is a statue of Descartes, which he fell, while the bullet mark is still visible
the philosopher, with the inscription "Cogito, ergo in the wall; and the room in which the Prince
sum." The park remains open till eight o'clock. died remains to be seen. His monument, which The Hague will require at least two days. On is e monstrosity of bad taste, is the principal arrival send to the director of the Westrunian attraction in the Nero Church in the square, about Museum for an admission card for the morrow; the middle of the town. Its only redeeming point this institution is only open to the public the first is the introduction of the Prince's dog, a faithful and third Thursday in every month. After breakanimal, that is said to have once saved its master's fast devote a couple of hours to the picture gallery life, and to have pined to death after the assassi- and Japanese collection at the Maurits Huis. Open nation. In the same church is the modest tomb gratis every day, except Saturday, from 9 to 3; 50 of Grotius, who was a native of this town. Lecu- cents. The lower storey of the Museum is devoted wenhoeck, the naturalist, who invented the micro- to historical and ethnological collections. The scope, was also bora boro.
upper storey forms the picture gallery. Wo can