Page images
PDF
EPUB

of the Rhine and Danube, 2,780 feet above sea; two principal rivers in Europe. The two extreiniand thirty-eight tunnels have been made, of a total ties of a Continent receive the melted snow flakes length of 30,000 feet, the longest one being 5,600 of its ridges, and in many instances the water feet. At Eisenberg the new line ascends the drops of its houses find their way in one direction heights like a corkscrew.

to the German Ocean, and in another to the Black The road from Hornberg to the next town Sea, though they originally melted and dropped leads up the valley of the Gutach, winding in

within a stone's jerk of each other. immense curves until it suddenly carries you to Donaueschingen Station (Inns: Schütze ; the entrance of the little town of

Falke).—The capital of the principality of Baar, once Tryberg (Inns: Löwe; Post).--A place with the property of the Prince of Fürstenberg, one of the 80 :) inhabitants, romantically situated off the high mediatised princes, whose palace is the principal road, and hemmed in by lofty precipices. Tryberg building of the town, which contains 3,150 inhabiis the principal market for the clocks of the Black tants. In the garden of the palace is the Source Forest, and for the yellow-coloured straw hats of the Danube, a circular basin of clear sparkling worn by the peasantry. Over 200,000 of these water, conducted through a channel under ground clocks are yearly exported, under the name of for about fifty yards into the Briegach, from this Dutch clocks, to the various countries of Europe, spot called the Danube. Though the two upper and to America and China. The waterfall will streams the Brege and the Briegach are long, yet attract attention as a very pretty cascade. It is they are not known as the Danube until they join forined by the mountain brooks which unite,

the stream of the castle garden, but for which, and from one of the precipices hemming in the despite the length of their course, they would be

liable to be exhausted: hence the claim of this town, pour their waters into the chasm below, causing a great number of small cascades. Its court-yard basin to be called the source of the singularity renders it as deserving of being seen

Danube, whose real origin like that of the Nile, as any of the Swiss waterfalls, and it is really one is very obscure. of the most notable spots of the Black Forest. The The country for miles around Donaueschingen, mountains are partly covered with dark fir-trees,

is moist and marshy, the seat of innumerable and every object has already an Alpine appearance. springs, all flowing to the Danube. At Hülfingen,

about a mile from this place, our road crosses the St. Georgen.-The only object worth notice

Brege, which is joined by the Briegach, a mile at this place is the old Benedictine Abbey, burnt

further down, and considered the chicf stream of by the Duke of Würtemburg, because the monks

the Danube. would profess the Lutheran doctrine, but another

Hence to Constance by rail, winds round by was soon erected again, and the mins of the old

Geisengen Station, and Engen Station-.. one preserved. From here the road inclines to a

remarkable as the spot whence the Austrians were de cent until we reach rail again at

defeated by Moreau in 1800, both sides losing Villingen Station (Inns: Post; Blume; both 7,000 men. The height of Hohenhöwen, an extinct indifferent), the projected termination of the Black volcano, was occupied by the Austrians, but were Forest line. A small market town with a popula-driven from it by the French. At Singen Station tion of 3,870, 42 miles north-west of Constance.

the lines to Schaffhausen and Constance part off. The town itself presents the appearance of a The road to Schaffhausen is more direct. It leads square intersected at right angles by two princi- through a bare and open country in the midst of pal streets, at each end of which there is a gate. which we see to the left the ruined castle of Near Swenningen, 4 miles east of this place, is Fürstenberg. We pass the small village of Riedthe source of the Neckar.

We are now in a böhringen and Blumberg, a miserable post house,

fairly be called cascade land, so near which is the Custom House. The ascent and plentifully does it abound in fountains and water- descent of the Rande, a very steep hill, occupies falls; the reservoirs of the Black Forest feed the this stage. A magnificent view can be enjoyed

country that can

from the summit of the hill, the spot near the the Bodense, or lake of Constance, on the left wooden cross. On the left we see the mountains bank of the river. Erected by the Romans in the and extinct volcanoes known as the Hohenstoffeln, commencement of the fourth century, it was conHohenkrähe, and Hohentweil, and in the same di- siderably improved since the middle of the sixth rection the lake of Constance unfolds its charms century, and flourished as a free imperial town to the eyes, whilst the towers of Constance, and in its trade and manufactures, throughout the the snow-capped hills of Switzerland add beauti- middle ages. It is dull and monotonous, but the fully to the background of the picture. Midway deep interest attached to its historical traditions, down is the Custom House of the Baden frontier. cannot fail to make it an agreeable sojourn of a Just beyond the road enters Switzerland, and day or two. It formerly contained 40,000 inhabipasses through a valley to

tants, but has at the present time, not more than

a population of 8,520. It has, however, begun to Schaffhausen Station Hotels :

improve lately, and the government have formed Hotel du Chateau de Laufen, very near the

à port on the lake, which, whilst adorning the Fall-good, clean, and moderate charges.

town, is also useful for the purposes of extending Hotel de la Couronne, delightfully situated;

and promoting prosperity and trade in all the recommended to English travellers. (The nearest

departments of their industrial pursuits and enerto the landing place.)

gies. It has been formed at an immense cost. Belle Vue, close to Railway. Hotel Schweltzerhof, excellent first-class hotel,

The Minster is the principal church in the town, deservedly recommended. Splendid views.

and is å gothic structure erected in 1802, in a

cruciform shape, except the sixteen columns that Steamers daily to Constance.

support the nave of each hewn out of a single For the Falls of the Rhine, &c., see BRADSHAW's block, 18 feet high, which date from the 13th Hand-Book to Switzerland.

century. The platform of the steeple affords a The rail to Constance which crosses the Baden

delightful and extensive view of the distant shores frontier, repasses

of Suabia and the Vorarlberg, at whose back you Singen Station-(as above). Here we pass at see on one side the mountains and the seven hills the base of the Hohentweil, formerly a famous old of Graubuenten, and on the other the chain of the castle, and in latter times, a mountain fortress of Appenzell. Circular arches in the Romanesque the late Dukes of Wurtemberg, which, however, style flank the nave, in the centre of which, close is now dismantled and standing in ruins on a lofty to the pulpit, a stone attracts your attention. That rock.

is the spot on which the martyred Huss stood Radolfzell Station (Inn: Post House), where

when receiving sentence of death by the stato tho line from Ulm comes in. The town itself is

from the wretched men who constituted themselves a miserable hole, situated at the end of the ex

his judges. A remarkable tomb of English brass treme branch of the lake of Constance, known

stands in front of the grand altar. Beneath it lio as the “Unter See." It contains a very fine old

interred the mortal remains of Robert Hallam, Church, in the German Gothic style.

Bishop of Salisbury, who attended the council

with a deputation from the English church. He Petershausen-situated on the right bank of

is represented as wearing the order of the garter. the Rhine, which here from a lake becomes a river,

The stalls of the choir will deeply interest the was under the Empire a free abbey. Crossing the

visitor, who cannot fail to be delighted with the Rhine near a wooden bridge we reach

exquisite carvings ornamenting them. The death CONSTANCE Station, in Austrian territory of the virgin, represented by lifelike figures, in

Inn: Hotel du Brocket (Hecht Hotel), first-class the north transept, is worth inspection, as also tho establishment, situate opposite the harbour and beautiful tracery work of the still existing sides the lake.

of the ancient cloisters. A circus like building is It is situated at the north-west extremity of seen in one of their angles, and in its centre a round room,

in the Gothic style, containing a num- He was imprisoned first in the Franciscan, but ber of curiously devised scriptural figures. It is was soon conveyed to the stone dungeon, in the used for the commemoration services of the passion, | Dominican convent. In the suburb of Brühl, outon Good Friday. In the sacristy are some very side the town, is the field in which he suffered curious relics, Brabant lace, and a beautiful death with heroic fortitude. The spot is shewn mantelpiece. The cupboards or presses in the where the stake was placed, and earthen images of upper vestry-room will interest.

Huss and Jerome are offered for sale.

In Constance was negotiated the treaty of peace The Dominican Convent, now a cotton factory,

between the Swiss confederation and Sigismund, of stands upon a little island, once a Roman fortifica

Austria, and signed at Aarberg, in July, 1415. The tion. In it is shewn the spot where Huss' stone

house behind the hotel Hecht, with the beautiful prison, now removed to the Kaufhaus, stood. The

Gothic window, is that where the emperor lodged. church, chapter house, and cloisters, form very

The treaty of Presburg, in 1815, transferred Conpicturesque ruins.

stance from Austria to Baden, and, since 1802, it The Hall of the Kaufhaus wiú bè ever memorable is no longer an Episcopal see. as the place within whose portals was held the

The navigation of Lake Constance is accomfamous Council of Constance, in 1414-18, consisting of thirty princes and cardinals, four patriarchs, plished by seven or eight steamers, which keep

up à communication several times a day with tho 20 archbishops, 150 bishops, 200 doctors of divinity, and a host of other secular and clerical dignitaries. principal places upon its banks. The traffic upon

this lake has received a considerable impetus from The readers of history are familiar with the acts

the formation of a port at Friedrichshafen, and the of this council, which deposed the infamous John

southern terminus of the Würtemberg railway; XXIII. and Benedict XIII., electing Martin V. instead. No time can ever obliterate, nor blot out

and by the completion of the Barvarian railway to its infamy and horrible cruelty in sending to the Lindau, by which it is brought into communica

tion with Munich and the rest of Germany. stake Jerome of Prague and John Huss. Their unprincipled and treacherous seizure and barbarous The northern banks of the lake are flat; but the murder, will ever remain as incentives to execrate southern side presents a series of picturesque and detest the memories and principles of the views, having the mountains of Appenzel and civil and ecclesiastical monsters who sent them to St. Gall, together with those of the Tyrol, in the the faggot, and condemned them to torture. Though background. centuries have rolled by since the crime was per

Excursions can be made from here to Reichenau, petrated, the murder is not forgotten, nor the

situated in the broad part of the Rhine, and famed memory of these heroic men less enshrined in the

for its monastery, founded by Charlemagne; affectionate respect of the high-minded and just,

and to Meinau, 4 miles north, famous as being because they were murdered for the sake of a

once the seat of the commandery of the knights of

the Teutonic order. It is approached by a wooden The curiosities of the hall are the chairs in footbridge, which connects it with the shore. which sat the emperor and pope, Huss' bible, a From the terrace of the garden surrounding the model of his dungeon, the car on which he was

house in which the commandery dwelt, somo drawn to execution, the figure of Abraham, that delightful views may be had. supported the pulpit in the minster, and other relics Railways to Zurich, to Schaffhausen, to St. Gall, of the council, besides a collection of Roman and to Donaueschingen, to Bâle, and to Freiburg. German antiquities. Parties are charged 18. for

Steamers to all the ports of the lake, correadmission.

sponding with diligences, at Rorsrach, at Friede The house in which Huss had apartments is richshafen: with railway for Stuttgart, and at seen in the Paul's Strasse, near the Schnetzthor. | Lindau, with that to Munich and Augsborg.

M

principle.

162

BRADSRAW'S HAND-BOOK TO BELGIUM AND THE RHINE.

(Route 32.

ROUTE 82.

Steig, & post station, where the traveller

may enjoy good accommodation, on reasonable Freiburg to Schaffhausen.

terms. Here a steep slope of the road leads the By the Höllenthal.

tourist out of the Höllenthal, and leaving it, he

parts with the most striking scenery. At this Distance 57 English miles. Ellwägen daily

juncture an extra horse is required, for the ascent one direct in eleven hours; the other by Donaues

of the Höllesteig, for which 1f. 12 kr. must be chingen, follows the rail from that place.

paid. Opening in the distance is Himmelrich, or The route is accomplished through the imposing Kingdom of Heaven-called so, we presume, from Hollenthal (i.o., Valley of Hell), which presents the very elevated position of the country conthe appearance, at its opening, of a flat and fertile stituting it. Passing Lenzkirch and Bondorf, plain, enclosed amid sloping and sylvan hills. (19 miles from which is the magnificent BeneNoaring the ascent, its original width becomes dictine Abbey of St. Blaize), we arrive at the slowly contracted; and at about 42 miles from top of the ascent, from whence may be had a Shaffhausen, assumes a magnificently beautiful magnificent view of the Lake of Constance. Close shade of romantic grandeur. Its woods, rich in by is the castle of Hohenlupfen ; and a little foliage, cover the steep sides, from which proiect

further on after passing Stühlingen, we cross a sharpened fragments of rock, rugged and naked,

stream, and journeying on a distance of 11} miles having running at their base the Dreisam, whose

we arrive at banks are verdant with turf, and studded with

Schaffhausen and Its Falls. See BRADmills. The scenery here will impress the mind of

SHAW's Hand-Book to Switzerland. We now enter the tourist as partaking of a majestic wildness, Switzerland, famous for her mountain strongblended with a picturesque beauty; Steig and

holds.

The palacos of nataro, whose vast walls, Hirschsprung are the spots most remarkable for

Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalp the exhibition of this wild and rugged grandeur

And throped Eternity in icy halls On the journey wo pass

or cold sublimity, where forms and falls Burg, remarkable from the fact that in 1796,

The avalanche-tho thunderbolt ut snow !

All that expands the spirit, yet appals, Moreau accomplished a retreat with his army.

Gathers round the summit as to sbew Ninety-four years previous to this, Marshal Villars

How earth may suar to hoaved, yet leave vain was deterred from attempting this pass, saying

man helow. that he was not daro-dovil enough.

[Freiburg to Schaffhansen, a pleasant two days' onward way wo moot

journey on foot.-R. S. C.]

[ocr errors]

On our

APPENDIX.

I.

WIESBADEN, in Nassau. A STATION ON THE BRANCH LINE FROM CASTEL AND BIEBRICH, OPPOSITE MAYENCE. See Routo 23

Population, 22,000. Hotels :

always a good company of players during the Hotel and Baths, The Four Seasons (Vier season, at which period also, concerts and exhibiJahreszeiten), is a first-class hotel, equal to any tions are given by artists of celebrity from other on the Rhine.

towns in Germany, or from London. Across the Hotel Victoria, facing the Station, comfortable road is a grass enclosure, bordered by avenues of and clean.

limes, and on the other side a colonnade for shops. Rose Hotel and Baths, first-rate and reasonable ; At the extremity stands the Kursaal, an edifico very respectable; Messrs. Alten and Haeffner, which contains a magnificent saloon for balls and proprietors.

public assemblies, with smaller apartments for Hotel d'Angleterre, an excellent house, highly refreshment and gaming, licensed by the governrecommended.

ment for the season, though the inhabitants of Rhine Hotel, a large new one, opposite the the town are prevented from risking their money. Station, in a fine garden.

Gaming is carried on in the salle all day and Adler; Poste; France; Grunerwald.

night, and it is calculated that there is lost at these The capital of the Duchy of Nassau is encircled tables annually 275,0008. The ground around the by low cultivated fields, behind which on the north Kursaal is laid out as a public garden, adorned and north-east rises the range of the Taunus with shrubs, flowers, &c., and sheltered by acacias mountains, clothed with pine and other trees, the and other plants. Thither all betake themselves dark foliage of which forms a pleasant relief to after dinner to sip coffee, smoke, and listen to the the verdure of the valley, and the white buildings band; music is always in attendance during the of the town. Wiesbaden, through the residence afternoons in the season. From this pleasure of the Duke and the seat of government, is still ground an agreeable path is continued by the side indebted to the celebrity of its waters for its of a streamlet up the valley of Sonnenberg as far prosperity, and the influx of visitors to it, which as the ruin of the ancient castle of Miln from amount annually to upwards of 15,000.

Wiesbaden. The old part of the town presents nothing par

Nothing has been left undone to render this town ticularly remarkable, but the appearance of the the most frequented watering place in Germany Wilhelm's Strasse, a handsome row of new houses the walks and drives are pleasing and varied, and fronting the promenades, is striking. It is called from the rising grounds the Rhine, with Mayence a city of lodging houses,' almost every house and other towns on its banks, is seen to advantage. being appropriated to the accommodation of From five to six and eight in the morning, and visitors.

again in the evening from about six to seven, The Kurhaus der Vier Jahreszeiten, one of the visitors assemble to drink the waters. They re most extensive hotels on the Continent, forms a ceive their draught at the well in boiling hot corner of the Wilhelm's Strasse and one side of a state,' and promenade, glass in hand, a long square, on the opposite side of which stands the avenue of acacias, until it is cool enough to drink, new Theatre, a neat building, where there is áfter which those so disposed usually bathe,

« PreviousContinue »