LETTER XXXI.-Distresses of Ireland-Atrocious conduct of the British Government-Popery laws- Insurrections-Catholics and Protestants- Tithes-Sufferings of the poor-Remaining disabilities-Irish genius-Irishmen in the -XXXII.-To John D.-The Dublin Theatre-Anec- dote of a Sailor-A dinner and soirée-Man- -XXXIII.-Bay of Dublin-Vagrants in the Packet- Storm at Sea-A Wreck-Reveries-Liv- erpool--Botanic Garden-Prostitutes-In- decent placards-Nelson's Monument-Dr. -XXXIV.—English Stage-coach-Staffordshire-Tren- -XXXV.-The American in London-Display of vice and misery-Ennui of fashion-West End of the Town-Squares-Dress of a Dandy- Reflections on splendid Hotels-Contrast be- tween the rich and poor-Fate of modest -XXXVI.-To Dr. Caldwell.-London Hospitals-Early visits-Dresserships-Pupils-College of Physicians--Hunter's Museum--Bethlem Page. LETTER XXXVII.-Richmond-Strawberry Hill-Horace -XXXVIII.-Are the English an intelligent people-Dif- -XL.-Bath-Smollett's satirical observations- more doctors, --XLI.-Concourse at London-Fashionable season- -XLII.-Gothic Structures-Westminster Abbey- -XLIII.-Seduction-Public women of London-The Magdalen, -XLIV.-Manners of Sovereigns--Instances of their 45 55 66 73 80 86 98 106 LETTER XLV.-A Day in London--Street population-Shop keepers-Dinner Parties-Evening PartyNight-Tea Gardens-Cellars-Drunkards -Robberies-Suicide-Beggars, Page. -XLVI.-Periodical works-North American Review --XLVII.-House of Commons-Reporters-Taxes- -XLVIII.-High and Low Classes-Happiness of the Gaming, -XLIX.-Old Bailey-Capital Punishments-Dread of -L.-Women-their Influence on Society-Paral- -LI.-The Theatre-Eulogy of the Drama-Rise ton-Jones-Liston-Dowton-Ch. Kem- -LII.-The Coronation, 114 126 134 142 151 159 178 195 FRANKLIN'S LETTERS то HIS KINSFOLK. LETTER I. Edina! Scotia's darling seat! Edinburgh, November 9, 1818. On my first entering this city, I was struck with the remarkable contrast between the Old and New Town. The old part of Edinburgh appears to be "blasted with antiquity"-whereas the New Town is really elegant-the houses are all regular, and many of them magnificent; the streets are spacious and extremely well paved, and the public squares would not disparage any city in the world. When I walk in the deep valley of the North Loch, in a dark night, my imagination sometimes transports me into those gloomy forests described in the Arabian Tales, and the lofty edifices at a distance, give me the idea of those fairy enchanted palaces, which spring up before the benighted traveller, and invite him to satisfy his hunger and curiosity. Edinburgh is a city of palaces. The natural grandeur of her situation has excited a kindred enthusiasm in her artists; the spirit of improvement is abroad, and calls forth the productions of architecture and sculpture: the romantic edifices of the old town, and the open and airy splendour of the new, associate with the magnificent scenery of the environs, and make "Auld Reekie" the wonder of Europe. Previous to 1763, a lake separated the New from the Old Town of Edinburgh. In that year, the North Loch was drained, and the mud removed. At present it has the appearance of a valley, in which there are a few scattered buildings. A mound and a bridge communicate between the Old and New Town, and stretch over the Loch. The coup-d'œil from the bridge, in a fine starry evening is extremely magnificent. The depth and darkness of the valley prevent you from seeing the houses and other objects in the Loch, and you discern nothing but the lights which glimmer in the windows. You fancy that a real lake floats before you, and that her "mirror blue" reflects the starry host with which the firmament is spangled. The amazing height of the houses in the Old Town of Edinburgh,* attracted my ob "The extraordinary height of the houses was marked by lights, which, glimmering irregularly along their front, ascended so high among the attics, that they seemed at length to twinkle in the middle sky." Guy Mannering. .: |