Zealand, having swept away, as with the besom of destruction, the once numerous population of this part of the country. When the Napui tribes first got fire-arms and ammunition, they came to try their skill upon the unarmed and unfortunate people of this neighbourhood. Many were captured, and multitudes killed, and cooked, and eaten. Some years ago there was a large pa on the summit of one of the hills which overlooks the bay. It is said, the place was besieged till the inhabitants were compelled to feed upon each other; that families exchanged children, that they might not eat their own offspring; and that about three thousand persons were cut off.

The Church Missionaries have some native Teachers usefully employed in this part of the island. The natives we saw, amounting to two or three hundred, were particularly anxious for religious books. I know nothing that more satisfactorily and delightfully indicates the commencement of brighter and better days for NewZealand, than the earnest desire which is every where manifested, among all classes of the people, for the possession of books and Missionaries.

Upon arriving at Wanganuiatera, or Port-Nicholson, we went on shore, near a kainga, or "village ;" and were met on the beach by a grotesque party of natives, some bedaubed with red-ochre and oil, and others disfigured about the cheeks and eye-brows with congealed blood. They, however, were delighted to see us, and gave us a hearty welcome. Here some of our lads met with their relatives and friends, whom they had not seen for ten or twelve years. It was truly affecting to witness their mutual joy, though expressed after the manner of sorrow, according to the favourite tangi of the country. After the excitement had a little subsided, we erected our tents, and partook of some refreshment: potatoes and Indian corn were the best viands the village afforded. Some of our lads having drunk water from a tapued stream, one of the Chiefs came to us, and demanded satisfaction. After a little korero, or "conversation," he agreed to remove the tapu, and listen to the Gospel. In the evening we held public service, on which occasion many speeches were delivered, both by our own lads and the natives; the former briefly stating their history since their separation from their friends, together with some particulars connected with their conversion to Christianity; and the latter asserting their ignorance, and great desire to be

taught the truth as it is in Jesus. The people, either from what they have heard of Missionary operations in other parts of the island, or a special influence from God, are evidently prepared for the reception of the Gospel. I trust the time is not far distant when New-Zealand, beautiful for situation, salubrious in climate, and exuberant in soil, having a population fearing God and working righteousness, will become an eternal excellency, the joy of many generations. Port-Nicholson is about twenty miles

to the north-west of Cape-Palliser. There is about ten fathoms' water at the entrance, and room to beat in and out with any wind. The harbour is extensive, and affords excellent anchorageground, and safe shelter for shipping. It is surrounded by a chain of beautiful hills, rising gradually from the edge of the water, partly covered with timber, and sending forth numerous streams of fresh water. We could find no river answering to the description given in the book published by the Committee of the Association for the Colonization of NewZealand. They say, (pages 111, 112,) on the authority of Nayti, a young Chier who was in London some time ago, that "the river Heritaoua is as broad and deep as the Thames at London-bridge; and that it is eighty miles long." We found a narrow stream, called Heretanga, the only one at all like a river, which divides into four branches, and extends from four to ten miles into the country; but it is so shallow at the entrance, that we were almost wrecked in the whaleboat. At this place we met with a white man, the only one in the Port. He was building a boat; but, having to manufacture nails from an iron hoop, with a wood fire, proceeded but slowly with his work. The shore is skirted with numerous settlements or villages, of different dimensions, and variously fortified. The people are of milder aspect, and gentler carriage, than the natives of the north of the island.

On the Sabbath, we converted the seabeach, opposite to one of the principal settlements, into a sanctuary; erected the boat-sail as a break-wind to shelter the Preacher; and collected the entire popu lation of the place, with the exception of a few sick people, as a congregation. Mr. Hobbs had not proceeded far in the service before the rain came down in sufficient torrents to have dispersed any English audience; but the poor NewZealanders, unmoved by the pelting of the pitiless shower, seemed only intent upon hearing the word of truth, the

Gospel of our salvation. We met with Warepouri, a superior Chief. His person is tall and majestic; and, having his hair tastefully tied on the top of his head, and falling back all round, like a diadem, and decorated with feathers, he had a savage and commanding appearance. He expressed himself as very anxious to have a Missionary, and was delighted to accept a copy of the New Testament. Wherever we went, the people said, if we would only come and settle among them, the land should be ours; and they would carry wood and water, and do all in their power, for us. Thinking the place suitable for a new station, and presuming that the Committee would sanction such a step, we tapued a piece of land of the proprietors, two respectable Chiefs, for some blankets and fish-hooks. The tapu secures to us the privilege of purchase, if we should fix upon the place for a Missionary settlement. Having spent a week among these interesting barbarians, and furnished the lads we were about to leave as Teachers with books, slates, pencils, &c., &c., for schools, we prepared to take our departure. The people showed us great kindness, bringing abundance of pigs and potatoes, as a mark of their respect and gratitude. One of the Chiefs of whom we tapued the land was anxious to rub noses; and I was obliged, with as much grace as possible, to submit to the disagreeable ceremony. Such was the love of the lads to their Missionaries, that they were almost broken-hearted at parting. They appear to be sincerely pious, and exceedingly anxious to be useful to their heathen relatives and friends. I trust they will be as lights shining in a dark place, and as showers that water the earth.

After tossing about, amidst light winds and cross seas, for thirty hours, we came to anchor in Cloudy-Bay. The appearance of the Southern Island is particularly barren and repulsive. The outer rocks rise abruptly from the sea, and are bounded by stupendous mountains covered with perpetual snow. Cloudy-Bay is extensive, and abounds with small indentations and coves, with good anchorage and shelter for shipping. The natives are not numerous. We saw about one hundred and fifty, with whom we held service. They were most importunate for books of hymns and prayers. The Europeans, belonging to the several whaling establishments of the place, are numerous; many of these, of course, have no wish for the light of the Gospel, lest the hidden things of darkness, in which

they revel and delight, should be revealed, and they should be ashamed. I am persuaded, if Missionary operations were commenced here, there would be more opposition from civilized Europeans, than from the untutored barbarians.

The

We next directed our course to Queen Charlotte's Sound, and had a pleasant run by moonlight. The noise of the breakers upon the rocks at the Heads is tremendous; like the sound of thunder, or the report of an earthquake. scenery of the Sound is decidedly romantic, as rocky and craggy, and rude and sterile, as can well be conceived. There is no land available for agricultural purposes, except a few acres in the immediate vicinity of the native settlements. There are a few patches of cultivation, gardens of potatoes and kumeras, on the sides of the precipitous and almost perpendicular mountains; but they are small and insignificant. Fish, which is abundantly plentiful, is the principal food of the natives. The place may be attractive to the whalers, but will never be the favourite locality of the farmer. There may be about fifty Europeans connected with the whaling establishments of this place; some of whom present specimens of human nature in its worst estate. Dwelling in the region of the valley of the shadow of death, they prac tise every species of iniquity without restraint and without concealment. The very sense of decency and propriety seems to be extinct. The very soil is polluted. The very atmosphere is tainted. A few expressed themselves as wishful to have a Missionary, that their children, by native females, might be educated; but others spoke of the New-Zealanders as being little better than the beasts that perish, and almost ridiculed the idea of their becoming Christians. One man told the natives, that if they listened to the Missionaries, they would be ruined, as they would get no more muskets and tobacco. It is, however, a pleasing circumstance, that notwithstanding the evil influence of the European population, the natives, in general, have turned, as they term it, to the Missionary religion. Here, as at Port-Nicholson and Cloudy-Bay, the true light has shone, teaching the people to observe the Sabbath and worship God; which they do, according to the best of their ability, twice a day. The place of bells is supplied by old musket-barrels, suspended by cords, and struck with stones. A few of the young people can read, and all are anxious to learn. As we left one place, numbers followed the boat up to their

middle in water to get books. The word of the Lord is precious here. We found, in the possession of some lads, a few fragments of the translation of the New Testament, so dirty with use as to be scarcely legible, but preserved with the greatest care. One of them, having learned to write a little, and got some paper, had begun to multiply copies. I was particularly affected with the last passage transcribed, and earnestly prayed that it might be verified in the case of these interesting and promising young men : -"He that hath begun a good work in you, will perform it until the day of Christ." (Phil. i. 6.) I suppose ours was the first vessel that ever visited the Sound on an errand of mercy to the natives.

The next place we visited was Mana, an island about three miles in length from north to south, rising abruptly from the sea to an elevation of about one hundred feet, except at the northern point of the eastern side, which gradually slopes to the edge of the water. It is three miles distant from the main of the Northern Island. The landing is tolerably good, and there are some native settlements along the coast. Mr. Bell, who originally purchased the property from the natives, is dead; and it is now in the possession of Mr. Peterson, of Sydney. The natives, however, have the right of residence, and the run of the land, so as to build houses, and plant potatoes, wherever they please. The island is more adapted for pasturage than cultivation. There are upon it five hundred sheep, and thirty head of cattle, the property of Mr. Peterson. It was evening when we came to anchor, but, understanding that the Rouparaha, who is the E Ongi, or Shungi, of this part of the country, was on the island, we went on shore. The house in which we found him was larger than the generality of native habitations; but the space which served for door, window, and chimney, was so low and narrow, that it was all we could do, crawling on our hands and knees, to get through it. Two large tubs of oil stood at each end of the apartment, with immense burners, filling the place with smoke, and rendering darkness visible. About thirty natives, warriors and slaves, were laid at full length, in various directions, on the floor. The place was hot as a stove, with an atmosphere so thick and impure, as to be scarcely breathable. The Chief expressed himself as glad to see us, pressed us to sit near him, and wished to enter into a long conversation; but after singing and prayer, we were glad to make our exit,

giving him to understand, that at our next meeting we would more fully state the object of our visit. The old man has been a great warrior, and is notoriously vicious in his habits. He sometimes lays his hand upon his stomach, and says, "I am hungry for a man: go and kill such a slave for me." On one occasion, some little time ago, a young woman having offended him, he ordered her to prepare a native oven, which being finished, he had her killed and cooked in it. The next morning he came on board to breakfast, and behaved with great propriety. He said, if he might have a Missionary, he would give over fighting, and with all his people would begin to serve God. We presented him with a copy of the New Testament, and left him one of our most pious and clever lads as a Teacher. I trust the young man, whose name is Paul, will maintain his integrity, and be a burning and a shining light.

After a pleasant run of twelve miles, we came to Kapiti, or Entry-Island. It is higher and more extensive than Mana; but, apparently, less valuable, being thickly wooded, and much broken by deep gullies, and dark ravines. There are upwards of eighty white men connected with the whaling establishments of the neighbourhood. The natives are scanty and scattered, and more barbarous than the generality of their countrymen. The influenza has been prevalent lately, and they have obstinately refused to take medicine; in consequence of which many have died. Instead of nursing their sick, they remove them into the bush to die, Truly the dark places of the earth are still full of the habitations of cruelty.

The Haupapa, or Mount-Egmont, which is said to be eighteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, presented a most splendid appearance, being girded with clouds and capped with snow. We spent a few hours at Ngamotou or Moturoa, the Sugar-loaf Islands of Captain Cook. They are curiously-formed rocks, separated from the main land, and inaccessible except by water. One of them, the largest and most singular of the cluster, rising almost perpendicularly to an elevation of about two hundred feet, is the site of a native settlement. Round about the rock are numerous ridges and holes, either of primitive formation, or produced by the operation of time, which serve as terraces and habitations for the singular people who have chosen it as their craggy home. The fences, on the top and sides, appeared like reeds shaken with the wind. It is said there is water, but no fuel for fire, and no food for sus

tenance. We called at the base of the mountain, but could not land, on account of the breaking of the surf. Several natives came down to speak with us, but they were armed with muskets, and evidently afraid we had visited them for purposes of war and desolation. We stated our object, gave them some books, and returned to the ship. We went on shore at Taranaki, but could not spend much time in exploring the country, as there was no secure shelter for the vessel; and, the wind being fair, we were anxious to prosecute our voyage. Taranaki has long been renowned for its rich and prolific soil; there are thousands of acres of beautiful country, unbroken by mountains, and unencumbered by forests, fit at once for the plough of the husbandman. The superior quality of the soil is unequivocally demonstrated by the luxuriance of the vegetation with which it is overspread. Various vegetables, the seeds of which may have been promiscuously scattered, are flourishing in as good condition, as though they were most assiduously cultivated. Taranaki has long been famous, in the history of New-Zealand, for its numerous population. The soil, without much labour, producing abundance of food, the natives multiplied, and excelled in the manufacture of mats and other articles of value. These advantages rendered them the objects of the perpetual jealousy and envy of the other tribes of the island, who so relentlessly and repeatedly waged war against them, and so frequently and completely conquered them, that the land is now well nigh left without inhabitants. The remnants and fragments that remain, scattered and peeled, have been obliged to seek for shelter on the tops of mountains, and in the holes of rocks. Numerous ruined fortifications and desolated villages are pointed out to the traveller, as the melancholy monuments of the ravages of war. O when will the time come, when the interesting aborigines of this beautiful country will beat their swords into ploughshares, and their spears into pruning-hooks, and become the free and happy subjects of the Prince of peace! We were much disappointed in finding no good harbour in the neighbourhood of Taranaki. From Kapiti to Kawia, a distance of two hundred miles, there are no bays for shelter, and no ground for anchoring ships. This materially detracts from the value of the locality as a place for commerce. If the land should become the property of European settlers, supplies of goods must be conveyed an im

mense distance over-land, which will be both difficult and expensive.

When we came to anchor in the Kawia harbour, our engagement with the Captain terminated; and, without regret, we quitted the little vessel, in which we had experienced many mercies, and had likewise been exposed to many perils, and subjected to many privations. We were heartily welcomed at the Mission-house, by Mr. and Mrs. Whiteley. It is a privilege which none but those who go down to the sea in ships, and do business in the great waters, can properly estimate, after a tedious and perilous voyage, to return to the security and comfort of domestic life. Well is it said in one of the Psalms, "They shall be glad because they are quiet, so thou bringest them to their desired haven."

Kawia is half a mile broad at the entrance, with about three fathoms' water on the bar. There are many sand-banks and mud-flats in the river, which are uncovered at low water. Several small streams of fresh water run into the principal channel. The banks are partly rocky and sandy, and partly covered with fern and timber, presenting here and there a beautiful patch of sloping land ready for cultivation. The natives chiefly reside in the luxuriant valleys, and by the tributary streams which are connected with the harbour. There are two or three Europeans on the river, who are friendly with the Missionary, and favourable to the spread of Christianity.

The Mission at Kawia was commenced in May, 1835, under the patronage and protection of Haupokia, a renowned warrior and influential Chief. A piece of land had previously been purchased for a Missionary settlement, which, though not very extensive, is well situated. After twelve months' arduous labour and extreme peril, during which period a dwelling-house and chapel were erected, and an impression favourable to Christianity extensively produced upon the surrounding population, Mr. Whiteley, the Missionary, for certain reasons connected with the general work, was removed to another station. The Heathen raged, the people imagined a vain thing; and it seemed probable that the cause of truth and righteousness, so recently introduced, and so feebly operating, would come to a perpetual end. But a church had been formed, against which the gates of hell were not permitted to prevail; and when Mr. Whiteley returned, about six months ago, after an absence of upwards of three years, he found the house and chapel standing

together with a small number of Christian natives, the fruit of his former labours, walking in the fear of the Lord, and in the comforts of the Holy Ghost, who hailed his return as the messenger of the churches, and the lover of their souls. The work is prosperous and promising.

The movements on Saturday indicated that the Sabbath was at hand. Multitudes of natives, from different places, some over the mountains on foot, and some by water in canoes, arrived at the settlement, to be prepared for keeping holiday. I was present while Mr. Whiteley took down the names of a large number of persons as candidates for Christian baptism: they were well recommended by their Leaders, as having met in class for some time, and given satisfactory proof of a work of grace upon their hearts. In the evening, Mr. Hobbs preached to a numerous and deeply-interested congregation. The Sabbath was a most interesting day. The chapel was crowded at all the services. Many were deeply affected. I assisted in the baptism of sixty-eight adults, male and female, who publicly renounced Heathenism, and professed their faith in the Christian's God. Many of them were parents; and, not content with consecrating themselves, they also gave their offspring to the Lord. Twentynine children were solemnly dedicated to the Triune Jehovah. Thus several households subscribed with their hands to the Lord God of Israel. It was a sight which an angel might stop in his flight to admire, and which Jesus would smile to behold. In the evening, I preached in English, to about half-adozen people; after which, we partook of the sacrament of the Lord's supper, and found it good thus to remember our divine Saviour.

During our sojourn at Mr. Whiteley's, it was proposed that we should go over to Mokou, to endeavour to prevent a war. Ngatapu, a Chief of some rank in the neighbourhood of Kawia, had gathered together his friends, and was going to seek satisfaction from Touni and Tariki, Chiefs of Mokou, for some insult they had offered to him. A few days before, an old Chief had remarked, in the presence of one of Mr. Whiteley's boys, that, if the Missionaries did not interfere, and effect a reconciliation, there would be such slaughter and bloodshed, that it would be difficult to find firewood to cook the multitudes that would be slain. It was a formidable undertaking, particularly in connexion with

the tremendous journey home which we had in prospect; but the object contemplated was so important, and the Christian natives were so anxious for us to interfere, that I knew not how we should be justified, as the Ministers of the Gospel of peace, if we refused to attempt, at least, to induce the people, to whom we were sent, to cast away their weapons of war, and learn to love as brethren, and so fulfil the law of Christ. We were a week in performing the journey; and, having to traverse dense forests, and climb rugged mountains, and cross extensive swamps, and ford deep rivers, in the midst of heavy rains and cold winds, the task was neither easy nor pleasant. At a heathen village called Padianiwaniwa, or "the Precipice of the Rainbow," we unexpectedly had the opportunity of witnessing some of the singular customs of the country. A man of our party, who was baptized the preceding Sunday at Kawia, by the name of Matiu, had, about twelve months before, lost four children. A man called Mahiri was reported to have occasioned their death by witchcraft; and so firmly did the bereaved father believe the report, that he determined to have the man's life as payment. Mahiri, however, escaped for his life to Padianiwaniwa, and was kindly received by the people, who built a small fortification for him, and cut off all communication between the two places by tapuing the road. The path had not been travelled from that period, and was, consequently, well-nigh lost amidst rank vegetation and luxuriant foliage. Tidings of our approach speedily circulated through the settlement, and Mahiri and his friends were much alarmed, and afraid that Matiu had come for utu, or "satisfaction." The parties met in due form, and after certain horrid grimaces, and hideous yells, together with a drawling ditty called singing, on the part of the Heathens, Matiu stood forth and said, "My words to you are about Jesus Christ. Let the matter be finished. Jesus Christ shall be the peacemaker between us." Thus a reconciliation was effected, and the whole ceremony concluded with a tangi and a feast. tangi is a "crying match," in which each tries to outdo his fellow in making frightful faces and uttering whimpering sounds. The feast was chiefly of pota toes, four bushels of which we saw cooked in one oven, besides large quantities of greens and Indian corn. Having nothing better, we were obliged to strike a tin dish with a stone, to call the people together for worship. It is to be hoped

The