the form of this lake, given by the mountain peaks and ridges enclosing, which has placed the cross of St. Andrew in the Swiss national flag. From the quays at Lucerne, the visitor looks out upon an enchanting scene of green water and mountain slope, with forty-two Alpine peaks in full view. On the left hand, Rigi mounts up against the sky, and on the right, Pilatus, with its serrated and jagged top. The former rises nearly a mile above the water, and the latter is higher, while between them, and afar off over the beautiful waters of the lake, are seen the more distant mountain peaks, many of them dazzlingly white as the sunlight falls upon their snowy caps. Clouds float over the water below the summits, and one white fleece after another obscures the nearer Rigi, the hotels on the top being one moment hidden, and the next in full view. Little steamboats course over the lake; tiny rowboats and skiffs glide upon the surface, with flocks of swans and waterfowl; and as the night approaches, the shore lights up with hundreds of gleaming lamps, making the scene a glimpse of fairy-land. With this great attraction, Lucerne has become a city of hotels and lodging houses, with the tourists of the world paying tribute to the lucky landlords who control this beautiful place. Lucerne has about thirty thousand permanent population dwelling along and near the rapid Reuss, which is crossed by seven bridges, and the adjacent lake shores; and most of them gain their subsistence, as in fact do the greater part of the Swiss population, from the tourists. This is the Roman Lucerna, or the "light house," and the original and traditional lighthouse still stands down in the river, the ancient Wasserthurm, or Water Tower. This old tower, with its peaked top, has been the storehouse of the city archives from the days of Swiss independence until now, and it is looked upon with the reverence of an Independence Hall, and contains precious relics and curiosities. Nearby the old-time. winding foot-bridge, the Kapellbrücke, crosses the river obliquely. It is covered with a high peaked roof, and the boards across the rafters beneath are painted with scenes from Swiss history and from the lives of the patron saints, Leodegar and Mauritius, who guard the town. Another old-time bridge crosses farther down, also at an angle with a bend at midstream, and is similarly ornamented, the paintings on both, however, being weather-worn. There are ancient survivals everywhere in this picturesque city, and it is surrounded by venerable walls with watchtowers dating from the fourteenth century. The spacious quays fronting the lake are planted with trees and made most attractive to the visitors who thus enjoy the grand outlook. Near the Quai Nationale, on higher ground is the old Hofkirche of St. Leodegar, said to have been founded in the seventh century, its two slender towers having been built four centuries ago, and the church restored after a fire in the seventeenth century. The Rathhaus dates from the six |