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brother, Dr. Logan, of Bristol, desiring him to pay £500 sterling to my order, etc. I told him that I had found in his daughter all that I had sought, that I thanked him for what he had given, and should be quite content," etc.; "he further told me, that he had heretofore given Hannah five hundred acres of land, in Bucks County, and the dear creature generously offered to make me a present of it."

"16th. Stephen Benezet visited us. Dr. Moore and Dicky Hill came up in the afternoon. About four o'clock, my dear spouse and I set out in the fourwheeled chaise, having her brother William in company. Sister Hannah came after us, in the chaise that Aunt Pemberton rode up in, who intends to stay a night with mother; we were welcomed home by my sisters, Betty and Jenny, and had uncle and Isse Pemberton, Jemmy Logan, etc., to spend the evening

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mire-like roads were, no doubt, partly accountable.*

Through these unmacadamized roads, worn into deep gullies by winter frosts and rains, and often overspread with pools of standing water, a wedding company at a country house would come, picking their way carefully, and at a snail's pace, in their two-seated two-wheeled "chairs," their four-wheeled chaises or on horseback. At the mansion-doors they would be politely handed down by well-bred negro servants, brought up in the family, for the "redemptioners" were only employed in the rougher kinds of service. The costumes worn, in a party such as this, among “Friends," can be nearly inferred from records of the time. It is

generally supposed that the present Quaker garb has remained unchanged from the origin of the sect. Such, however, is by no means the case. The views and aims of that respectable body have always been, to avoid following the changing fashion of "the world," as a sinful waste of time, money and thought. Human nature has, however, been too strong (or too weak,) for this excellent principle, and their own peculiar fashions, changing imperceptibly with the exigencies and conveniences of the times, have always moved in lines parallel to the similar changes of those of the "world's people." The present broad-brimmed silk

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hat worn by them, is less similar to the felt cocked-hat of their ancestors, than it is to the now fashionable "stove-pipe," from which it differs neither in general form nor in material.

The dress now worn by the bishops of the Church of England is nearer to a correct preservation of the costume in use at the period of "Friends"" origin, than their own is. The portraits of George Fox and James Naylor show the "shovel" hat, and the nearly collarless straight, sack-cut coat, worn buttoned, together with the linen bands (the ends of the neck-tie,) hanging from the neck down the breast, now worn by Episcopal and Roman bishops. The contemporary portrait of Naylor, still preserved in the library of Peter's Court meeting-house, London, shows, also, that he wore his full beard and moustache.

The "shovel" hat, a low-crowned felt, with broad brims much curled at the sides, became transformed, in time, by the increasing breadth of the brims, which required them to be looped up to the crown to prevent their flapping about the ears, into the three-cornered cocked-hat, looped up at three points. This fashion the "Friends" followed, though their brims were, perhaps, of a less extravagant breadth, and less fiercely "cocked” than those of the "world's people." Wigs were universally worn, even by boys. The gentlemen, then, who attended John Smith's wedding, came in cocked-hats and wigs, and generally in plain linen bands about the neck, though some who

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approximated in dress to the world, like Richard Hill, no doubt wore ruffles on bosom and wrist. "Hair camlet" appears to have been a fashionable material among the plainer "Friends" for coats, while the "gayer," or, as they were then called, the "finer" sort, wore velvet of different colors. The coats were cut nearly collarless, very wide-skirted, like a wide "sack-coat" in that respect, with the front edges overlapping each other when buttoned, but neatly fitting to the chest and arms; they had very large doubled cuffs and great outside pockets with flaps, both ornamented with large buttons, the pockets being on the front of the skirts. The front edges were cut perfectly straight from neck to skirt, with buttons closely set nearly the whole length, from the neck to the lower edge.

These coats were not very materially different from the ordinary costume of the period; but when the heavy rolling collar and the "swallow-tailed" cut of the skirts were introduced in the "world," the "Friends" narrowed their skirts into somewhat broad "coat-tails," and gave the straight-line of the front edges a gentle curve, thus producing what was termed, in Philadelphia, the "shad-bellied” coat, from the resemblance of its outlines to those of that favorite fish, and which resembles much more the modern "dresscoat" than it does the garment of their ancestors. The extremely narrow standing collar was, at the same time, considerably heightened, though not enough to double or "roll" it. The coat of the

change, but not to an equal extent. The change from the "cocked-hat" to the present form worn by "Friends," also followed, though with less extreme variation, the corresponding change in the "world."

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Episcopal bishop has undergone a similar The gowns (usually of heavy rich. silk or satin for such occasions,) were worn open in front, "to display a finelyquilted Marseilles, silk or satin petticoat and a worked stomacher on the waist." (J. F. Watson.) A wedding-gown of 1770, an heirloom in my family, is cut in this style. "The plainest women among the Friends, (now so averse to fancy colours)," says Watson, wore their coloured silk aprons, say of green, blue, etc. This was at a time when the 'gay' wore white aprons. In time, white aprons were disused," (by the latter,) "and then the Friends left off their colored ones and used the white."

"Small clothes," or "knee-breeches," buttoned or buckled at the knee, with silk stockings and low shoes with large, conspicuous buckles of steel or silver, (among the "world's people" sometimes ornamented with real Brazilian diamonds,) completed the gentlemen's dress. Canes were always carried, with heads of ivory, silver or gold; and they were usually much longer than at present. The ivory-and-silver-headed cane of Daniel Smith, of Bramham, is still in possession of a descendant, in Philadelphia. The dress of female "Friends" underwent equally great changes. At the period of John Smith's wedding, the Quaker ladies wore (besides caps as now, though of different form,) stays and hoops, and high-heeled shoes, with pattens or clogs for muddy weather. The body of the dress was cut low in the neck, with a kerchief as at present, but with sleeves only to the elbow, below which a sort of long gauntlet, generally of white silk, protected the arm. The stays gave a tight waist, which descended in a long point upon the petticoat, which was seen through the open front of the dress. The cap was quite different from the present one, only covering the top of

the head.

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It appears from the following extracts, from a letter of Richard Shackleton, (1776,) and from one of Sarah Hill Dillwyn, wife of the eminent minister, George Dillwyn, written while the latter was on a "religious visit" in England, that these aprons were even worn during the times of religious worship, as a special costume for those seasons.

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"What shall I about these green aprons? I think we are of one mind about them. about them. I believe it is the Master's mind that His disciples and followers should be distinguished from the world by a singularity of external appearance. I suppose it is also His will that a certain peculiarity of habit should distinguish them on the solemn occasion of assembling for Divine worship, or other religious performances." (Richard Shackleton, Ballitore, 14th of third month, 1776.)

"I think the women here are far before

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We see by this that the fashion was just then changing from the green silk to the white cambric apron. This fashion was doubtless quickly followed in America. "The same old ladies, among Friends," (continues Watson,) "whom we can remember as wearers of the white aprons, wore also large white beaver hats, with scarcely the sign of a crown, and which was indeed confined to the head by silk cords tied under the chin." An aged relative told me that she remembered a distinguished female preacher, sitting in the"gallery" of a country meeting in summer, with one of these broad, flat, dishlike white beavers on her head, when a cock, flying in through the low, open window behind the gallery, and, perhaps, mistaking the hat for the head of a barrel, perched upon it and uttered a vigorous crow! These hats were succeeded by the totally different " wagon" bonnet, so called from their resemblance to the top of a "Jersey" wagon, and much less becoming to a bright, youthful face than the flat hat; these were always of black silk, and had a "pendant piece of like silk hanging from the bonnet and cover

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Soon after the wedding, the new-married pair started to pay a visit to the groom's family, in Burlington, and we are at first. startled to learn from the diary the surprising fact of the Delaware being so solidly frozen as to bear a vehicle and horses on the 17th of November!

It would seem, however, that the diarist, though writing many years after the authorized "change of style," still used "old style" in his dates; thus, most of them must be read as two months later than they appear.

"Eleventh month 17th. Cousin Katy Callender, my father, my spouse and myself, set out in his slay," (sleigh,) "about ten o'clock, and got to Burlington before four. Led our horses over Neshaminy, which we crossed by walking on the ice, as we did, also, Delaware, but might have safely rode over each; found a kind and welcome reception from our relatives and friends at Burlington.

"18th. We dined at father's, as did several other relatives; we had a pretty many visits in the afternoon and even

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