dry, denotes any beast full faced, and snips, and even turnips, may be injured looking right forward. by over-richness; while onions, mushGARDEN. We must divide this artirooms, asparagus, &c. delight in such cle under four heads; viz. the flower, or parts as are manured even to a degree of pleasure garden, the kitchen garden, the nursery, and the forcing department. Of these we shall treat distinctly under the head of GARDENING. In this place it is proper to state, that a garden should have a favourable aspect, gently declining towards the south-west, and should be enclosed by a substantial wall, high to the north and to the east, but rather low towards the south and west: the former will preserve the plants from the chilling winds proceeding from those quarters, the latter will allow the genial breezes from the favourable points to circulate freely throughout the enclosure, while the sun will not be debarred during the cooler months, especially from visiting the interior in general. In the height of summer, as the sun rises and sets to the northward, the southern borders of the garden will be screened during the heat of the day, but will, during the early and late hours of its stay above the horizon, receive sufficient warmth without being scorched. Hence the south side, generally speaking, affords a shady border. The soil of a garden should be deep, rich and clean: without such qualities the produce will be inferior, while the labour and expense will be enhanced in exact ratio with the defect. Nor can a garden be too abundantly supplied with water; the absence of which, in adequate proportion, will render every effort towards perfection totally unavailing. It is of the utmost importance that the whole garden should have a free access of air, and that the subsoil should be wholesome and sound. The great exhaustion occasioned by constant cropping demands liberal supplies of rich manure, that the soil should be kept in excellent heart. Nor should such parts as are intended for the production of vegetables be crowded with trees, or bushes. We should advise in the strong est manner, that such trees, &c. as spread their roots widely, be interdicted altogether, and that such as may be considered as really indispensable be set out at ample distances, and not allowed to over-shadow the beds. It is possible, however, to have the soil of a garden made too rich, that is, for the production of vegetables in general, many of which require an open free soil, not too highly dressed. Carrots, par rottenness. The directions given under the head Gardening will furnish ample instruction on this subject; and will give, in a concise form, the leading features of the art, in such manner as may prove useful to, and be easily retained in memory by, those who may not be provided with publications treating abstractedly on that subject. GARDENIA, in botany, so named in honour of Alexander Garden, M. D. of Charlestown, in Carolina, a genus of the Pentandria Monogynia class and order. Natural order of Contorte. Rubiacex, Jussieu. Essential character: corolla one-petalled, contorted or twisted; stigma lobed; berry inferior, two to four celled, many-seeded. There are fifteen species. The GARDENING being a science of the utmost importance to the community at large, is followed by many persons with considerable advantage to themselves. Indeed, what is called market-gardening is a medium between private horticulture and that part of farming which relates to the production of green crops. We shall in this confine ourselves to horti culture, as suited to ornament, and to the management of grounds cultivated with the view to family supply. following list of fruits is usually resorted to, when forming a garden. Apples in all their varieties, pears ditto, plumbs ditto, peaches ditto, apricots ditto, nectarines ditto, cherries ditto, figs ditto, grapes ditto, mulberries ditto, medlars, quinces, walnuts, chesnuts, filberds, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries. The vegetable department usually consists of the following: asparagus, artichokes, ditto Jerusalem, beans, peas, kidney-beans, running ditto, turnips, cauli-flowers, cabbages, brocoli, coleworts, sea kale, cucumbers, onions, leeks, radishes, lettuces, celery, endive, spinach, beets, parsley, fennel, cardoons, cress, mustard, chevril, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, melons, mushrooms, and love-apples: with capsicums, hyssop, marjoram, sage, mint, thyme, balm, lavender, rosemary, basil, clary, borage, and penny. royal, for pot-herbs, &c. The flower tribe are as follows: First class, or tender annuals: amaranthus of sorts, stiamonium, egg-plant, balsams, ice-plant, sensitive plant, humble plant, scarlet convolvolus, snake-mellon, and martynia. Second class, or less tender annuals. African marigold, French ditto, aster of sorts, chrysanthemum, sweet sultan, Indian pink, palma-christi, tobacco, loveapple, gourds, persicaria, Indian corn, mignonette, convolvolus, capsicum, basil, lennia, stocks, tree-amaranthus, carmacorus, Chinese hollyhock. The third class or hardy annuals. Adonis, larkspur, lupin, sunflower, lavatera, convolvolus major, starry-scabius, hawkweed, carthamus, nasturtium, Tangierpea, honey-wort, nigella, catch fly, lychnis, navel-wort, Virginia stock, pansies, snail-plant, cyanus, xeranthemum, garden marigold, purple ragwort, dracocephalum, bastard fumitory, amythysten. The hardy biennial and perennial flowers are these: Aster, Tripolian, dog's bane, arum, asclepius, astragalus, alysson, bachelor's button, borage, rag. ged-robin, campanula, Canterbury-bells, caltha, cassia, carnations, pinks, sweetwilliam, wall flowers, stock July flowers, French honey-suckle, tree primrose, lichnidea, cyanus, lichnis, rose campion, hepatica, linaria, bee lark-spur, fraxinella, gentiana, fox-glove, globularia, cyclamen, chelone, gold-locks, lilly of the valley, Solomon's seal, filapendula, columbines, ibalictrum, pulsatilla orebus, vesovian, golden rod, valerian, rudbekia, pulmonaria, monarda, jacea, ephemeron, primrose, polyanthus, auricula, violet, London pride, day-lilly, aconite, hellebore, geranium, daisies, ranunculus, peony, silphium, iris, cardinal, rocket, scabius, eringo, angelica, asphodel, ononis, lupins, eupetorium, balm of Gilead, mothmullien, snap-dragon, and Tradescantia. The bulbous and tuberous kinds are, amaryllis, crocus-vernus, snow-drop, ornithogalum, erithronium, muscaria, fritillaria, crown imperials, tulip, gladiolus, anemone, ranunculus, pancratium moly, fumaria-bulbosa, Narcissus, jonquil, lily. squill, asphodel, tuberose, iris, hyacinth, leontice, colchicum, cyclamen, coronaregalis, aconite, and sisyrinchium. Plants suited to the hot-house are, Aloes, arums, ambrosia, anthyllis, aretotis, aster, (African) apocynum, apium, asparagus, (shrubby), bosea, campanula, buphthalmum, chysocoma, convolvolus, (silvery), celastrus, Cliffortia, caper, cistus, chamomile, (Italian), cyclamen, coronilla, crassula, cytisus, digitalis, diosura, iris-uvaria, euphorbia, geranium, guaphalium, grewia, heliotrophium, hyperium, Hermania, jasmine, ixia, justicia, leonu rus, kiggellaria, lemon, orange, citron candy-tuft, dotus, lycium, lentiscus, lavatera, Malabar-nut, mesembryanthemum, myrtle, oleander, olive, opuntia, osteospermum, ononis, physica, phyfalis, sage, (African), silver-tree, scabius, sempervivum, sideroxylum, sedum, solanum, arvonum-Plini, pomum-amoris, stapelin, tetragonia, tucrium, tree-germander, and tanacetum-frutescens. The trees and shrubs designed for the ornament of pleasure grounds, &c. are either evergreens, which retain their foliage, or deciduous, which shed their leaves usually on the approach of inter. The list of evergreens comprises arbor vitæ, arbutus, cedar, cork, cypress, pine, fir, holly, magnolia, laurel, oak, yew, alaternus, cistus, coronilla, enonymus, juniper, hartwort, horse-tail, kalma, honeysuckle, laurustinus, bay, spurge, kneeholm, phillyrea, privet, purslane (tree), phlomis, rose (evergreen), rhododen. dron, savin, stone-crop (shrub), widowwail, groundsel (of Virginia), germander, jasmine (Italian,) lotus, phyracantha, medicago, bignonia, tutsan, rag-wort (sea), wormwood, ivy, and furze. The deciduous are, acacia, ash, crategus, maple, hornbeam, medlar, chesnut, walnut, hiccory, birch, beech, sycamore, plane, larch, laburnum, liquid-amber, lac, lime, cypress, catipha, poplar, arbor-Juda, alder, willow, elm, hamamelis, service, oak, tacamabacca, persamen plumb,aguuscasters, almond, althæa-frutex, Andromeda, Arabia, azelea, berberry, bladder-nut, broom, cephalanthus, bramble, viburnum, uoleosia, tupelo, empatrum, licium, chionanthus, laurustinus (African), xanthoxylium, melia, lavender, gale, spiræa, scorpionsena, smilax, syringa, sumach, toxicodendron, tamarisk, sassafras, pistachia, filberd, hazel, jesuit's bark, honey-suckle, frangula, jasmine, hydrangia, hypericumfrutex, lilac, silver-ivy, Robinia, Louisera, St. Peter's wort, mezereon, kidney-bean tree, tallow-tree, barba-jovis, mevispernum, oleaster, peach, privet (common), palmirus, privos, periploca, flamula-jovis, itea, ptelen, cherry, rhamus, raspberry, myrtle, coccigria, cinquefoil-shrub, colutea, clathea, bush-cassiberry, bignonia, Benjamin, euonymus, dogwood, Guelder rose, thorns (black and white), azerole, Naples medlar, mespilus, celtis, pear, bastaria, bird-cherry, tulip-tree, rose, briar, pomegranate, currant, gooseberry. Those plants which are reared in green or hot-houses, and are raised from seed, as well as a great variety of tender annuals, are generally produced from hot-beds, made by collecting fresh stable-dung, or tanner's bark, while capable of affording a great degree of heat. Over these beds, which are sometimes framed in with woodwork for masonry, fine soil is laid to the depth of four, five, or six inches, or in some cases more, and glass frames are fitted as covers, in such manner as to open to any desired extent. When the first heat has subsided, and the temperature is such as not to scorch, the seeds of me. lons, cucumbers, &c. may be sown, or the pots, containing curious plants, may be partly buried, so as to obtain a greater degree of heat than is afforded by the air without the frame. In this manner, the most tender exotics may be propagated; indeed many become gradually so inured to our climate, as to be perfectly habituated; and after fifteen or twenty genera tions (or seasons, if not very perishable) may in some instances be treated the same as our tender indigenous plants. Such, however, as are not disposed so to assimilate, must be preserved in greenhouses, or eventually be kept in hothouses during the cold months; being there confined in an artificial atmosphere, highly rarefied by means of a fire, which warms a variety of flues that every where intersect the walls of the building. See HOT-HOUSE. Having said thus much, in general terms, regarding the trees, shrubs, and vegetables, ordinarily appropriated to gardens and pleasure-grounds, we shall give the reader a brief code of instruction as to the seasons and modes appropriate to each individually, arranging the whole in form of a calendar. JANUARY. Kitchen-garden. Make up your hot-beds for melons, cucumbers, &c.; for early produce, select the romana and cantaloupe melons, and the early prickly cucumber. The plants will rise in a week, but you should never keep them so hot as to steam the glasses. Sow successive. ly, in case of accidents, to which this class are very subject. If the beds cool too much, lay fresh litter all around them; or, if practicable, rake out some of the old litter, and fill up with very fresh dung; avoiding much pressure. The outside dressing will require to be changed every fortnight, as the heat will in that time be greatly abated. When the plants have made two good shoots, exclusive of their first leaves, you may remove the pots, in which they were sown, to a larger bed, where they are to remain, stripping off such shoots just beyond their second joints. In such beds you may force asparagus, lettuce, small-salading, love apples, radishes and an infinite variety of vegetables for early use this will, however, require extensive and numerous beds. : You may in this month, if the weather be mild, sow parsley, beans, and peas, spinach, carrots, &c. but do not depend on their succeeding: they should all be sown on warm borders. Plant out cab. bages, for summer use, and in all the varieties for seed. For this latter purpose, you may keel in any old stems that have good sprouts on them, they will furnish excellent seed, plant them in an open part, in a deep, well-worked soil, highly manured; your cauliflower plants, that stand under glasses, should be clean picked from all decayed leaves, and be well weeded; give them air occasionally dur ing mid-day, when the sun is out; but close up well at night, so as to shut out the frost; if intensely cold, cover with matting, straw, &c. earth your celery up well in dry, open weather, breaking the earth very small, and applying it gently; remove all the rotten tops, by twisting them off very carefully; your endive should also be picked, and tied up, in fair weather. If the plants appear wet, and injured in the heart, take them up, and, after hanging for two or three days, by their roots, to drain, transplant them into clean, well prepared-beds, earthing them up half way of their leaves, but taking care that no soil be admitted within them. Artichokes should be attended to, and well landed up; also be supplied with long litter, to preserve them from frost; cover your mushroom-beds well for the same reason. In the Fruit-garden, finish the pruning of your apple and pear-trees, training all the shoots that are to remain, at full six inches asunder; you must also prune and nail your plum and cherry trees, as well as your peaches, apricots, and nectarines, provided the weather is mild, else it were better deferred to a more favourable time; however, you need not be apprehensive from slight frosts. Always loosen the whole tree before you begin to prune, so that you may remedy any defects, and be enabled to make a more perfect arrangement, cutting out all useless wood. You may prune vines when the weather permits, keeping only the shoots of the last season, no others being bearers. Gooseberries and currants must be trimmed with a bold hand, to allow free access of sun and air; keep only the wood of one or two years. Raspberries must be looked to, cutting away all but the young shoots; these should be shortened about onethird of their length. You may now set out the cuttings from gooseberries and currants, and the young shoots of raspberries; plant at least four feet asunder every way, else your fruit will be small, and deficient in flavour: choose an open situation and a free soil. You must now prepare ground for plantations of fruit-trees, choosing good situations; your wall and espalier trees ought to have ample room, not less than twenty feet asunder: in a few years they will cover well, and bear rich crops; standards ought to be full forty feet apart if the weather proves severe, defer this work until it mode rates, and look well to your old trees, covering their roots with litter, and supporting newly-planted standards with stakes, leaning on hay-bands, so as not to injure the bark. Prune old standards, and begin the forcing of hot-house plants by closing well up, and keeping a temperature of from seventy-five to eighty degrees, Fahrenheit. As the fruit begins to ripen, allow water in moderation. Your strawberries will particularly come under notice in the forcing time; and all the potted plants must be placed in hotbeds for that purpose. In your Flower-garden, see that the auriculas, carnations, hyacinths, and tulips, be well sheltered from inclement weather. You may now plant tulips, anemones, ranunculuses, crocuses, jonquils, narcissuses, hyacinths, and all other bulbs; or you may set the roots on mantle and chimney-pieces, on glasses filled with water. Let all your perennial fibrous rooted plants, such as double wall-flowers, double stocks, double sweet-williams, chrysanthemums, &c. &c. that are in pots, or under frames, be carefully attended to. Cover seedlings and tender plants, not omitting to give air in mild weather. You should now prune and dig between your flowering shrubs; and may plant out roses, honeysuckles, lilacs, laburnums, privets, jasmines, and a great variety of the hardy class, observing to arrange them tastefully, according to their colours, foliage, &c. and setting those which are tallest, when full grown, in the back part, whereby you will not obscure the lesser kinds. All hardy shrubs may now be propagated by layers; and suckers may be removed from roses, syringas, aspiræas, lilacs, &c. into rows, where they should stand for about two years, and then be set out to where they are to remain; cuttings of hardy deciduous shrubs will now proceed. Trim your grass-walks and lawns, throw. ing down worm-casts, and rolling with a wooden roller. You may at this season pare and lay turf. In dry weather, lay down and roll the gravel-walks that wer ridged; plant thrift and box edgings, if not done in October or Novermber. Forest and ornamental trees should now be planted on dry soils; these should, properly, be of the hardy kinds. Hedges may be planted or plashed. In the Nursery. Transplant and prune your forest-trees, particularly those that are deciduous, if the weather admits; før ever-greens the weather must be settled; prune and transplant flowering shrubs; plant fruit-tree stocks, and prepare for extensive plantings and sowings; in frosty weather carry dung, &c. losing no time; take great care of young and seedling trees; propagate by cuttings In the Hot-house. Your pines will require great care; you may also raise kidney beans, cucumbers, strawberries, &c. and have abundance of flowering plants therein. FEBBUARY. Kitchen-garden. Cucumbers and melons will be sown with better success in this, than in the former month; but take care they have not too much heat, as they will be apt to wither: to prevent this, let them be sown or set upon little hillocks, or ridges, which will expose a greater surface to the air; stop, i. e. pinch off, the young plants at the first joints of the first shoots, so as to cause their sending out many fruitful runners; do this when they have two rough leaves, not longer than a shilling; force asparagus in hot-heds, breaking off the shoots with your finger, avoiding to cut them; kidney-beans, small salading, &c. may proceed, as shewn in the last month's directions; give your cauliflower plants air, and by the end of the month you may plant out to two feet asunder, taking care to cover with haulm, &c.; if the weather comes on very cold, leave one plant under each glass; sow cauliflower seed, transplant cabbages, sow cabbage and savoy seeds, also early celery, radishes of sorts, spinach, lettuces, carrots, parsnips, beets, leeks, onions, beans, peas, pot-herbs, potatoes, horseradish, turnips,liquorice, &c. for a general crop; taking care to break the soil well, and to choose favourable times for putting in the seeds, or sets. In the Fruit-garden. Continue to prune fruit-trees, and especially vines, dress strawberry beds, plant fruit-trees, dig the borders, graft, and go on forcing the early flowers and fruits. In the Flower-garden. You may sow tender annuals on hot-beds, during the early part of the month; and towards the end all the hardy annuals; plant out the hardy fibrous rooted plants, such as primroses, violets, polyanthuses, &c.; dress your auriculas, and sow their seed; also those of the polyanthus, in rich, light earth, very shallow; transplant your carnations, defend bulbous roots, prune flowering shrubs, plant out such as are wanted, together with evergreens; plant hedges, lay turf, trim lawns and walks, set box, &c. for edgings. In the Nursery. Propagate by cuttings, suckers, and layers; transplant layers, flowering shrubs, stocks to graft on, fruit and forest trees; sow seeds of ditto, and head down budded stocks. In the Green-house. Look to the shrubs, &c.; giving air, and water, in proportion to the mildness of the weather. You may now trim myrtles, oranges, &c. to any intended form. In the Hot-house. The pines will demand much assiduity; for an improper degree of heat will at this period injure them very considerably: keep up to 75 degrees, by means of fresh bark to be mixed with that in which the pots were plunged. Moderate watering will contribute both to growth and flavour. Keep your exotics very clean from decayed leaves, and wash dust, &c. from the leaves; above all things, remove cob-webs wherever they appear; and, if necessary, fumigate, to destroy insects, which will now begin to shew themselves. Fresh air must now and then be admitted, when the weather admits. Your strawberries, kidney-beans, cucumbers, roses, &c. will now get fast forward; but you must guard against frost, which would do great injury, if your fires were neglected. MARCH. Kitchen-garden. Attend to your cucumbers and melons; you may now sow the seeds of the later sorts; such as the Smyrna, the long green, and long white Turkey kinds. Make new hot-beds, to receive them when fit to transplant. About this time, your cauliflower-plants may be removed from the warm borders, and set out; these will now occupy the beds of your spinach and radishes; which will soon be gone, and leave only the cauliflowers. Sow brocoli for an autumnal erop; also cabbages, some of which may now be transplanted. Sow savoys, and lettuces, also spinach, leeks, onions, borecole, radishes of sorts, carrots, and parsnips, all on good soil, well prepared, and made very fine; fork and dress up your asparagus, and plant out where wanted; you may also sow some seed; dress your artichokes, and plant out; set beans for a full crop, also peas; earth up any that are grown sufficiently; sow turnips for a full crop, also celery, small salad, and all the tribe of medical and pot-herbs; nasturtiums may be sown very early in this month; capsicums should be in a hot-bed, and be set out as the weather grows warm, after they have four leaves; if six, or eight, the better. Love-apples will require the same treatment; kidney-beans, potatoes, and Jerusalem artichokes, should not be omitted. Set slips of rosemary, rue, chives, mint; and let your garlic, scallions, cardoons, &c. now be committed to the soil. In the Fruit-garden. Prune your figtrees, and plant also where they are wanted; if your wall fruit-trees have not been trimmed, lose no time in attending to them; some will be in bloom, if the season favours; cover such with mats at night, to keep the frost from injuring them. Fruit-trees in general may yet be planted out, but no time should be lost; and the borders in which they stand should now be well dug. Prune vines, and propagate by means of cuttings. It is expedient to remark, in this place, that it has been recently proposed to graft vines upon elders at this season, under the idea of producing early fruit, and of giving the clusters more time for ripening; the suggestion is assuredly ingenious, and merits trial. Dress your strawberries well, and run light whisps of straw at right angles under the foliage, so as to support the leaves, and to retain the moisture in the soil. Continue to force your early fruit, taking care to keep up fires every night. In the Flower-garden. You will find ample employment in setting out your early aunuals, sowing tender annuals on hotbeds, and the more hardy sorts in warm borders. Fresh earth must be given to plants in pots; the chrysanthemums, auriculas, carnations, hyacinths, &c. will now demand care, as will all your curious flowers. Now plant anemones, and ranuncu luses, and sow the fibrous-rooted annuals and biennials; transplant perennials, prune your shrubs, hoe and rake your borders, dig where necessary, and clean your clumps; plant deciduous flowering shrubs, and forest-trees; transplant your cvergreens, remove roses, plant edgings |