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MARTIN LTJTHER AND ROWLAND HILL. 117
We were sorry to leave the summit without going down into the abyss.* But that was impossible, unless we would make up our minds to spend the night there, and try the cold and moonlight, for which we were not prepared. We had, therefore, to make the best of our way down before nightfall, carrying with us some plants of the silver-sword, and specimens of a silver geranium, sage, and sandal-wood, picked by the way. Woefully worn and weary, but, through a kind Providence, without any serious accident, we all reached again the hospitable house of our entertainer by six o'clock.
Perhaps, in perusing this account of the spectacle of grandeur and glory presented by the self-sustained clouds of Hale-a-ka-la, some reader may call to mind the expression that burst from the lips of Rowland Hill, as he was viewing some fine scenery in England and Wales :—Oh, if these outskirts of the Almighty's dominion can with one glance so oppress the heart with gladness, what will be the disclosures of eternity, t when the full revelation shall be made of the things not seen, and of the river of the City of God! Or that fine passage in one of Luther's Letters—
"I saw lately two signs in the heavens. I looked from my window in the middle of the night, and I saw the stars, and all the majestic vault of God, sustaining
* The bottom of this crater, according to measurements of the U. S. Exploring Squadron, is 2783 feet below the summit-peak, and 2093 feet below the level of the walL
itself, without my being able to perceive the pillars upon which the Creator had propped it. Nevertheless, it crumbled not away. There are those, however, who search for these pillars, and who would fain touch them with their hands; but not being able to find them, they trouble, lament, and fear the heavens will fall. Again, I saw great and heavy clouds floating over my head like an ocean. I could neither perceive ground on which they reposed, nor cords by which they were suspended; and yet they did not fall upon us, but saluted us rapidly and fled away. And as they passed, I distinguished a splendid rainbow. Slight it was, without doubt, and delicate; one could not but tremble for it under such a mass of clouds. Nevertheless, this aery line sufficed to support the load, and to protect us. So is our rainbow weak, and the clouds heavy; but the end will tell the strength of our bow."
There is yet another and original lesson we learned from our lofty look-out on the House of the Sun; which is this—that it is with Christians, in their travel through the world, their pilgrimage to the heavenly Canaan, as with travellers in climbing the mountains: They must ordinarily pass through a region of storms and belts of clouds, if they will get to the top; and it is seldom or never that they have the clear sunshine all the way. They are willing, indeed, to be drenched in rain and enveloped in darkness, for the grandeur of a storm in the mountains, and to see how glorious is the after sun-gush. And they enjoy the clear weather and reach of prospect from the top all the more, for havSPIRITUAL LESSON AND IMPULSE. 119
ing gone through blackness and tempest in order to gain it.
Who that has ever climbed with difficulty some commanding mountain, and thence has looked far' down upon the zone of clouds that so lately enveloped him, but has felt this? And who has not been well paid, as we were, for the toil and danger gone through in reaching the summit, by the indescribable magnificence of view which then burst upon him, made up, in great part, of those very clouds, that only rained upon him when he was in their bosom, but now show far below him like fields of diamonds, or pavement of chalcedony in heaven's own light %
Even so will it be with the persevering pilgrim, faint, yet pursuing, when he stands on the eminence of Mount Zion above, having safely surmounted all the trials, and perils, and storms of the way. Ah, what glory will break upon him then, if he has been found faithful here; and what a position that will be to stand in and review this life, and find, in the light of eternity, how all things were working together for his good! Excelsior, Excelsior, be my motto, as I mount upward and onward to the City of God, eternal in the heavens!
"And 0 ye everlasting hills!
Buildings of God, not made with hands,
Whose Word, though ye shall perish, stands;
Nor in his works the Maker view,
Then lose bis works in Him?
Or love Him not when I behold,
My pulse stand still, my heart grow cold!"
After this memorable ascent and return from Halea-ka-la, our party were all kindly cared for by Rev. Mr. Green at Makawao, including the United States Commissioner, George Brown, since lost, as it is supposed, in a Typhoon, on his return to America by way of China.
In the vicinity of Mr. Green's residence at Makawao is the largest sugar-making establishment at these Islands, except that on Kauai. It belongs to an enterprising and upright American, who has procured a lease from government, on favorable terms, of upward of two hundred acres of excellent land. One hundred and fifty are under cultivation with sugar-cane. He has cast-iron cylinders for his mill, which is turned by oxen. A large part of the fuel for his furnaces is the refuse ground cane. Natives are employed as laborers, at a rate of from twelve to twenty cents per day.
The sugar has to be carted either twelve or eighteen miles to a landing-place, where it sells for three cents a pound. It is clean and well granulated, and much superior in quality to the common West India brown sugar. Much of the cane-juice is not made into sugar, but boiled into syrup or molasses, and sold for eight and ten cents per gallon. It is a much finer article FARMING LANDS AT EAST HAITI. 121
than that which sells in America for thirty and thirtyfive cents.
It needs, however, the best thrift and husbandry to keep such an establishment out of debt and make it productive. How long the land will bear cane well without manuring, remains to be seen. The Koloa plantation on Kauai is said to be running out, and no longer to yield a dividend to its holders. Extensive manuring, it is thought, will be necessary in order to keep up its productiveness. The high lands all along the south side of East Maui, from Kahikinui to Haiku, are very fine for farming. It is the region in which most of the Irish potatoes are raised for the ships at Lahaina, and all the wheat raised at the Islands is grown here. Its climate, also, is highly salubrious, and it will yet be the garden of the Sandwich Islands, from which not only whale-ships, but the hotels of San Francisco, shall obtain their supplies.
Were it a land of brooks of water, of fountains and depths that spring out of valleys and hills, as well as a land that drinketh water of the rain of heaven, it would be attractive to foreign settlers above any other district in this group. But, owing to the cavernous and cellular character of the rock, as in every volcanic country, there cannot form reservoirs in the high lands that might be feeders to wells dug lower down; but the rain either at once runs off in some places on the surface, or percolates quickly through and settles to a level with the sea.