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barbarous laws, which are, like Draco's,* written in characters of blood!

In one of the debtors' cells, I saw two old men, who had been confined for several years. The gaoler told me that they were always together, consoled each other in their misfortunes, and mutually enjoyed the least gleam of hope that irradiated their gloomy cell. Thus, these unfortunate beings are like two feeble shrubs, which lean against other and acquire strength to resist the violence of the

storm.

Our last visit was to the depôt built in 1812 for the French prisoners of war. Seven thousand were confined in this dungeon; there were 150 guards to watch over them, and a picket of 50. Every thing seems to have been disposed here for health and convenience—the prisoners enjoyed good ventilation, cleanliness, wholesome food, and abundance of water, which was brought from the Tay meandering near the prison. This body of buildings is now used for the military stores, accoutrements, beds, &c. There were only 11 prisoners confined at one time in the hospital, which proves that their health was carefully attended to; it is probable that they lived a good deal on the antiphlogistic plan! The French prisoners were liberated in 1814, when they left the country by Dundee; but several of them had the good

* Draco boasted that he punished all crimes with death; because small crimes deserved it! and he could find no higher pune ishment for the greatest."

luck to escape from the depôt, and to visit their" dulcia arva" in 1813.

LETTER XVIII.

Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,
These Northern scenes with weary feet I trace;
O'er many a winding dale and painful steep,
My savage journey, curious, I pursue.-

BURNS.

Dunkeld, May 4, 1819.

Soon after we left Perth, we visited Scone, the earl of Mansfield's estate, situated on a ground rising gradually from the Tay. The old castle, of which scarcely a vestige exists, was formerly the residence of those interesting beings, the monarchs of Scotland. The kings were crowned here; thus Shakspeare:

"Then 'tis most like

The sovereignty will fall upon Macbeth.

Macduff He is already named, and gone to Scone
To be invested.".

The only vestiges of the royal residence now remaining, are an entrance by an arched gate, a part of a mausoleum and the frame of a door: all the castle, as it now stands, has been built since 1803.

The earl of Mansfield is grand nephew to the famous Lord Chief Justice of the same name. Lord Stormount, the nephew of the first earl, received the title of Mansfield in his

latter days. The present Lord M. married Miss Martin, daughter to the late archbishop of York. The motto on his coat of arms is “uni æquus virtuti," which, by the way, is applicable to very few men, and less to noblemen of any!

The castle of Scone is termed Gothic, although it has none of that fairy lightness, and exquisitely carved workmanship, which distinguish that species of architecture.

The floors are laid with pieces of oak, and waxed over in the Parisian style. The drawing room is adorned with paintings by the first masters. Among others, I noticed one by Teniers, representing monkeys imitating human gestures and actions; they are variously dressed, and occupied in different ways, some tapping a beer-barrel, others smoking, &c. What a severe and misanthropic satire is hidden under this ludicrous performance! Many reliques of queen Mary's early taste and splendour are shown in the castle. There are some pieces of embroidery, which are said to be from the Gobelins at Paris; but they bear no comparison with the magnificent tapestry which is now executed at the splendid Parisian manufactory. Lady Mansfield herself is something of an artist, and has painted most of the glasses in the windows. The library is large, and answers the description given of a similar one, by the Scotch novelist" a large Gothic room, with double arches and a gallery, contained that miscellaneous and extensive collection of vo

lumes usually assembled together, during the course of 200 years, by a family which have been always wealthy, and inclined of course, as a mark of splendour, to furnish their shelves with the current literature of the day."

The mausoleum is hedged in by new walls, and all the interior is new. Within a funereal urn are the hearts of the first Lord Stormount and his lady. It was his lordship who saved king James's life from the Gowries. Near this mausoleum, the monarchs from various parts emptied the earth from their boots, which they had brought from home with them, intending to stand on their own ground, while they saw the coronation! If one of the "profane vulgar" should take it into his head to "cut such fantastic tricks before high heaven," he would be (and very deservedly,) clapped into Bedlam. Such wretched puerilities can only be suffered in royal buffoons!

Early yesterday morning, we walked to Dunkeld, about 14 miles from Perth. We passed through Birnam wood, which is only remarkable because spoken of by Shakspeare:

"I look'd towards Birnam, and anon methought
The wood began to move"-

In our approach to Dunkeld, the Grampian hills gradually became more distinct; till at length we found ourselves in the midst of delightful scenery. The romantic mountains presented their gray fronts on all sides, and were agreeably contrasted with smaller hills

3

smiling in their green livery. The lap of Naature was not yet beautified by that verdant carpet which so pleasingly attracts the eye, in scenery less grand, less romantic, but more rural and picturesque. Only the vales and smaller hillocks presented the charms of the coming spring; at some distance the elegant Tay flowed in a silvery flexure, and its waves were brightened by the sun-beams that appeared to repose upon them.

The river was of that pale gray transparen cy which we sometimes admire in the light of an evening sky, when the twilight assumes the sober livery of declining day. As I left the belvidere, I often looked back, and closed my eyes to open them again, as if (to use the words of an elegant writer,) as if repetition could better impress the landscape upon remembrance than continuity; the delight I felt was mingled with sorrow by a sense of transitoriness-it was painful to behold scenes so beautiful, knowing that I should never behold them more.

Dunkeld is not unlike Lodève near Montpellier; it is situated on the arena of an amphitheatre of mountains. The scenery about it is uncommonly beautiful, and unites all the charms of the romantic and picturesque landscape. The bridge over the Tay, which is modern and of a beautiful architecture, and the new buildings are improvements of the Duke of Athol's, whose estate is in the vicinity.

The walks over his grace's grounds extend

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