Thur. 22.-We took boat at eight in the evening, and, landing at four in the morning, walked on to Uutfass, which we left about two, having now another boy added to our number. A little before eight we came to Beurn, a small ill built city, belonging to the prince of Orange. Setting out early in the morning, we came to Nimwegen, the last town in Holland, about two in the afternoon; and, leaving it at four, came before eight to an inn, two hours short of Cleve.

Sun. 25.-After spending an hour in singing and prayer, we walked till near noon, before we could meet with any refreshment. The road would have appeared exceeding pleasant, being broad and straight, with tall trees on either side, had not weariness and rain prevented. We hoped to reach Reinberg in the evening, but could not; being obliged to stop two hours short of it, at a little house where many good Lutherans were concluding the Lord's day (as is usual among them) with fiddling and dancing!

Mon. 26. We breakfasted at Reinberg; left it at half an hour past ten, and at four came to Urding. Being much tired, we rested here, so that it was near ten at night before we came to Neus. Having but a few hours' walk from hence to Cölen, we went thither easily, and came at five the next evening, into the ugliest, dirtiest city, I ever yet saw with my eyes.

Wed. 28.-We went to the cathedral, which is more heaps upon heaps; a huge misshapen thing, which has no more of symmetry than of neatness belonging to it. I was a little surprised to observe, that neither in this, nor in any other of the Romish churches where I have been, is there, properly speaking, any such thing as joint worship; but one prays at one shrine or altar, and another at another, without any regard to, or communication with, one another. As we came out of the church, a procession began on the other side of the church-yard. One of our company scrupling to pull off his hat, a zealous Catholic presently cried out, "Knock down the Lutheran dog." But we prevented any contest, by retiring into the church.

Walking on the side of the Rhine in the afternoon, I saw, to my great surprise, (for I always thought before, no Romanist of any fashion believed any thing of the story,) a fresh painting, done last year at the public expense, on the outside of the city wall, "in memory of the bringing in the heads of the three kings," says the Latin inscription, "through the gate adjoining;" which, indeed, in reverence, it seems, to them, has been stopped up ever since.

At four we took boat, when I could not but observe the decency of the Papists above us who are called Reformed. As soon as ever we were seated, (and so every morning after,) they all pulled off their hats, and each used by himself a short prayer for our prosperous journey. And this justice I must do to the very boatmen : (who upon the Rhine are generally wicked even to a proverb :) I never heard one of them take the name of God in vain, or saw any one laugh when any thing of religion was mentioned. So that I believe the glory of sporting with sacred things is peculiar to the English nation!

We were four nights on the water, by reason of the swiftness of the stream, up which the boat was drawn by horses. The high mountains on each side the river, rising almost perpendicular, and yet covered

with vines to the very top, gave us many agreeable prospects; a religious house, or old castle, every now and then appearing on the brow of one of them. On Sunday evening, July 2, we came to Mentz; and Monday, the 3d, at half an hour past ten, to Frankfort.

Faint and weary as we were, we could have no admittance here, having brought no passes with us; which indeed we never imagined would have been required in a time of settled general peace. After waiting an hour at the gates, we procured a messenger, whom we sent to Mr. Böhler; (Peter Böhler's father;) who immediately came, procured us entrance into the city, and entertained us in the most friendly manner. We set out early in the morning on Tuesday, the fourth, and about one came to Marienborn. But I was so ill, that, after talking a little with Count Zinzendorf, I was forced to lie down the rest of the day.

The family at Marienborn consists of about ninety persons, gathered out of many nations. They live for the present in a large house hired by the Count, which is capable of receiving a far greater number; but are building one, about three English miles off, on the top of a fruitful hill. "O how pleasant a thing it is for brethren to dwell together in

unity !"

Thur. 6.-The Count carried me with him to the Count of Solmes, where I observed with pleasure the German frugality. Three of the young Countesses, (though grown up) were dressed in linen; the Count and his son in plain cloth. At dinner, the next day, a glass of wine and a glass of water were set by every one, and if either were emptied, a second. They all conversed freely and unaffectedly. At ten at night we took coach again, and in the morning reached Marienborn.

I lodged with one of the brethren at Eckershausen, an English mile from Marienborn, where I usually spent the day, chicfly in conversing with those who could speak either Latin or English; not being able, for want of more practice, to speak German readily. And here I continually met with what I sought for, viz. living proofs of the power of faith: persons saved from inward as well as outward sin, by "the love of God shed abroad in their hearts ;" and from all doubt and fear, by the abiding witness of "the Holy Ghost given unto them."

Sun. 9.-The Count preached in the old castle at Runneberg, (about three English miles from Marienborn,) where is also a small company of those who seek the Lord Jesus in sincerity. Wednesday, 12, was one of the conferences for strangers; where one of Frankfort proposing the question,-Can a man be justified and not know it? the Count spoke largely and scripturally upon it, to this effect:

1. Justification is the forgiveness of sins.

:

2. The moment a man flies to Christ he is justified;

3. And has peace with God; but not always joy :

4. Nor perhaps may he know he is justified, till long after.

5. For the assurance of it is distinct from justification itself.

6. But others may know he is justified by his power over sin, by his seriousness, his love of the brethren, and his "hunger and thirst after righteousness," which alone prove the spiritual life to be begun.

7. To be justified is the same thing as to be born of God. (Not so.) 8. When a man is awakened, he is begotten of God, and his feat

and sorrow, and sense of the wrath of God, are the pangs of the new birth.

I then recollected what Peter Böhler had often said upon this head, which was to this effect :

1. When a man has living faith in Christ, then is he justified:

2. This is always given in a moment;

3. And in that moment he has peace with God;

4. Which he cannot have without knowing that he has it:

5. And being born of God, he sinneth not:

6. Which deliverance from sin he cannot have without knowing that he has it.

Sat. 15.-Was the Intercession day, when many strangers were present from different parts. On Monday, 17, having stayed here ten days longer than I intended, (my first design being only to rest one or two days,) I proposed setting out for Hernhuth; but Mr. Ingham desiring me to stay a little longer, I stayed till Wednesday, 19, when Mr. Hauptman, (a native of Dresden,) Mr. Brown, and I set out together.

We breakfasted at Gehlenhausen, an old, unhandsome town, dined at Offenau, (where is a strange instance of moderation,—a church used every Sunday both by the Papists and the Lutherans alternately,) and, notwithstanding some sharp showers of rain, in the evening reached Steinau. Thursday, 20, we dined at Braunsal, and passing through Fulda in the afternoon, (where the duke has a pleasant palace,) travelled through a delightful country of hills and vales; and in the evening came to Rickhersch. The next night, (after having had the most beautiful prospect which I think I ever saw, from the top of a high hill, commanding a vast extent of various land on every side,) we, with some difficulty, and many words, procured a poor accommodation at an inn in Markful. Saturday, 22, having passed through Eisenach in the morning, we came through a more level open country, to Saxe-Gotha in the afternoon, a neat and pleasant city, in which the Prince's palace is indeed a fine building. We stopped an hour here with a friendly man, and in the evening came to Ditleben; and thence in the morning to Erfurt, where we were kindly entertained by Mr. Reinhart, to whom we were directed by some of the brethren at Marienborn. In the afternoon we came to Weymar, where we had more difficulty to get through the city than is usual, even in Germany: being not only detained a considerable time at the gate, but also carried before I know not what great man (I believe the duke) in the Square; who, after many other questions, asked, what we were going so far as Hernhuth for: I answered, "to see the place where the Christians live." He looked hard, and let us go.

Mon. 24.-We came early to Jena, which lies at the bottom of several high, steep, barren hills. The students here are distinguished from the townsmen by their swords. They do not live together in colleges, (nor indeed in any of the German universities,) as we do in xford and Cambridge; but are scattered up and down the town, in dging or boarding houses. Those of them to whom we were recomended, behaved as brethren indeed. O may brotherly kindness, and very good word and work, abound in them more and more!

At Jena, the stone pillars begin; set up by the elector of Saxony

and marking out every quarter of a German mile, to the end of his electorate. Every mile is a large pillar, with the names of the neighbouring towns, and their distances inscribed. It were much to be wished, that the same care were taken in England, and indeed in all countries. We left Jena early on Tuesday, reached Weisenfeltz in the evening, and Merseberg on Wednesday morning. Having a desire to see Halle, (two German miles off,) we set out after breakfast, and came thither at two in the afternoon. But we could not be admitted into the town, when we came. The king of Prussia's tall men, who kept the gates, sent us backward and forward, from one gate to another, for near two hours. I then thought of sending in a note to Professor Francke, the son of that August Herman Francke whose name is indeed as precious ointment. O may I follow him, as he did Christ! And "by manifestation of the truth commend myself to every man's conscience in the sight of God!"

He was not in town. However, we were at length admitted into the Orphan house; that amazing proof, that "all things are" still "possible to him that believeth." There is now a large yearly revenue for its support, beside what is continually brought in by the printing office, the books sold there, and the apothecary's shop, which is furnished with all sorts of medicines. The building reaches backward from the front in two wings, for, I believe, a hundred and fifty yards. The lodging chambers for the children, their dining room, their chapel, and all the adjoining apartments, are so conveniently contrived, and so exactly clean, as I have never seen any before. Six hundred and fifty children, we were informed, are wholly maintained there; and three thousand, if I mistake not, taught. Surely, such a thing neither we nor our fathers have known, as this great thing which God has done here!

Thur. 27.-We returned to Merseberg, and at five in the evening came to the gates of Leipsig. After we had sent in our pass, and waited an hour and a half, we were suffered to go to a bad inn in the town. Fri. 28.-We found out Mr. Merschall, and the other gentlemen of the university, to whom we were directed. They were not wanting in any good office while we stayed, and in the afternoon went with us an hour forward in our journey.

After a pleasant walk on Saturday, on Sunday, 30, about seven in the morning, we came to Meissen. In Meissen castle, the German chinaware is made, which is full as dear as that imported from the Indies; and as finely shaped, and beautifully coloured, as any I have ever seen. After breakfast we went to church. I was greatly surprised at all I saw there at the costliness of apparel in many, and the gaudiness of it, in more; at the huge fur caps worn by the women, of the same shape with a Turkish turban ; which generally had one or more ribands hanging down a great length behind. The minister's habit was adorned with gold and scarlet, and a vast cross both behind and before. Most of the congregation sat, (the men generally with their hats on, at the prayers as well as sermon,) and all of them stayed during the holy communion, though but very few received. Alas, alas! what a Reformed country is this!

At two in the afternoon we came to Dresden, the chief city of Saxony. Here also we were carried for above two hours from one magistrate or VOL. III.

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officer to another, with the usual impertinent solemnity, before we were suffered to go to our inn. I greatly wonder that common sense and common humanity (for these, doubtless, subsist in Germany as well as England) do not put an end to this senseless, inhuman usage of strangers, which we met with at almost every German city, though more particularly at Frankfort, Weimar, Halle, Leipsig and Dresden. I know nothing that can reasonably be said in its defence, in a time of full peace, being a breach of all the common, even Heathen laws of hospitality. If it be a custom, so much the worse; the more is the pity and the shame.

In the evening we saw the palace the late elector was building when God called him away. The stone work he had very near finished, and some of the apartments within. It is a beautiful and magnificent design; but all is now swiftly running to ruin. The new church on

the outside resembles a theatre. It is eight square, built of fine freestone. We were desired also to take notice of the great bridge which joins the new with the old town; of the large, brass crucifix upon it, generally admired for the workmanship; and of the late King Augustus's statue on horseback, which is at a small distance from it. Alas! where will all these things appear, when the earth and the works thereof shall be burned up?

Between five and six the next evening, (having left Mr. Hauptman with his relations in Dresden,) we came to Neustadt; but could not procure any lodging in the city. After walking half an hour, we came to another little town, and found a sort of an inn there: but they told us plainly, we should have no lodging with them; for they did not like our looks.

About eight we were received at a little house in another village, where God gave us sweet rest.

Tues. Aug. 1.-At three in the afternoon I came to Hernhuth, about thirty English miles from Dresden. It lies in Upper Lusatia, on the border of Bohemia, and contains about a hundred houses, built on a rising ground, with evergreen woods on two sides, gardens and cornfields on the others, and high hills at a small distance. It has one long street, through which the great road from Zittau to Löbau goes. Fronting the middle of this street is the Orphan house; in the lower part of which is the apothecary's shop, in the upper, the chapel, capable of containing six or seven hundred people. Another row of houses runs at a small distance from either end of the Orphan house, which accordingly divides the rest of the town (besides the long street) into two squares. At the east end of it is the count's house; a small, plain building like the rest: having a large garden behind it, well laid out, not for show but for the use of the community.

We had a convenient lodging assigned us in the house appointed for strangers and I had now abundant opportunity of observing whether what I had heard was enlarged by the relators, or was neither more nor less than the naked truth.

I rejoiced to find Mr. Hermsdorf here, whom I had so often conversed with in Georgia. And there was nothing in his power which he

do, to make our stay here useful and agreeable. About eight o the public service, at which they frequently use other instru