that of many persons more richly endowed with this world's goods. The little references to money, and to the necessary remittances, and to what the young couple could afford in the way of travelling and pleasure, are all perfectly simple and natural, but bear no mark of special difficulty, and certainly not of the hurry and misery of a life spent in toil for bread.

CHAPTER III.

GERMANY-A LONG HOLIDAY.

IN the spring of 1847, Tulloch had an illness, not apparently of any very serious character, similar indeed to one which had affected him at the same time in the previous year, and which he describes as bad influenza, with a good deal of fever and general prostration-the season, with its east winds and grey skies, and the monotony of the long winter, no doubt producing their usual effect after a long uninterrupted strain of work. The time of year when "folk are longen to gon on pilgrimages" affected him with all the greater force that his spirit, always moved with a certain characteristic impatience, had begun again to feel the thrill of the bigger world outside, and to chafe a little at the limitations of the ordinary routine around him. Like all young men, he felt something of the burden of those who are born. to set right the rotten state of Denmark and the world. And his illness gave a reason for that longing to shake himself free of his immediate surroundings, and change the skies at least, if not the mind, which during the last fifty years has become the panacea for all ailments and troubles. He wrote to his friend Smith in April to consult him about the possibility of getting some one to take his place for two months, beginning in the middle of June, a period for which he had obtained leave of absence from the Presbytery, and which he proposed to spend in Germany. He had been a more or less

desultory student of German for some time, and it now appeared to him that the period of his leisure could in no way be so well applied as by completing his studies of this language and making himself acquainted with the fast incoming stream of German theology, which was regarded at the time with a sort of half fascination, half alarm, by the new generation of Scotch ministers. It was with all the rising excitement of a man about to invade a world not realised, where there were giants to be confronted, as well as new friends to make and new knowledge to attain, that he set out accordingly in the end of May, leaving his wife behind with the solace of her first child, born in the previous year, to keep her company. Her father and mother, who had some intentions of settling in Dundee, were also to pay her a visit during his absence. It had not been without regret that this arrangement had been made. That Mrs Tulloch should accompany her husband had been the original idea; but the baby was no doubt a hindrance, and no doubt, also, the expense had to be taken into consideration. He accordingly set out alone. Wind and weather, and the important question whether he should take the steamer direct from Leith to Hamburg, detained him for a day or two in Edinburgh, during which time his letters faithfully reflect every change of idea. When, after waiting till a storm blows over, he finds himself at last at sea, the life on board, the little thrill of feeling with which an unaccustomed sailor finds himself for the first time out of sight of land, the uneasiness triumphantly kept under, the fellow-passengers to whom he makes friendly advances, some German ladies in particular, and, above all, the pretty ones of whom he playfully informs his absent wife, are all put down for her amusement; and the first thing he does on landing is to continue this record. The following is the young Scotch minister's naïve account of his first glimpse of the Continent. He was startled and sometimes shocked by what he saw, but very tolerant always.

To his Wife.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF TRAVEL.

HAMBURG, Sunday night [25th May].

53

In Hamburg at last, and very tired knocking about the hard streets; but I cannot think of going to bed before noting for you, dearest, my first impressions of the Continent. How different the

tout ensemble is, to be sure! men and women, houses, streets, and everything different. With nothing remarkably striking about the mere town, though some parts of it are fine enough, Hamburg is yet, in its pleasure-grounds and public walks, a very fine town. Edinburgh, with far better natural advantages, has nothing like them. And here they are free to everybody; and to be sure the natives enjoy them! I came ashore in the morning about halfpast ten with the captain, and attended church-the English Episcopal Church. With the Hamburgers as with all Continental people, Sunday seems a gala-day; and this especially—and, by the way, to-morrow also-as being the holiday season Pfingsten, Anglicè Whitsuntide. The desecration to me, accustomed to the comparatively quiet Scottish or even English Sabbath, is certainly shocking enough. Theatres, pavilions, saloons all thronged-all the stir and gaiety and noise of a public fair or holiday in England. The thing is very striking, so different from what you see among the lower classes with us-the perfect manner with which all seem to be enjoying themselves. There is none of that apparent, I might rather say staring, wretchedness so common-so common especially in our manufacturing towns. All look, and I believe are, comparatively happy. The funniest thing of all I have seen is the baskets which the women carry under their arms covered with a handkerchief-for all the world like a child's coffin. I am in a hotel called the British Union, which is entirely an English hotel. There are some fellows, however—Americans—in the smoking-room or bar who swear most terribly, which is most abominable. It is indeed awful how much profanity you encounter in travelling. However, I shall escape it, from ignorance of the words if from no other cause, as I proceed. After dining at the table d'hôte at half-past one, I went out to view the town, and having stumbled accidentally into the pleasure-grounds, was addressed by a young German. He said something (in German) about the weather (the day has indeed been beautiful), to which I replied in German in my best style. From this introduction we walked together, and endeavoured to maintain a conversation, in German of course. I did not feel much difficulty in expressing myself some way or another in German, and had the honour to be complimented on my attempts. My great difficulty was to understand what he said to me. This, I suppose, can only be got over by mixing largely and familiarly with the people.

Monday Evening. What a place this is, dearest,-pleasure, pleasure! The Hamburger seems a glutton for pleasure-dancing, drinking, smoking, amusement in every variety. Inexperienced and bewildered as I am with the sights of to-day, I cannot as yet attempt to give you any description of them. In the afternoon I went to the country, desirous to get good quarters for the two weeks at least I must pass till I hear from you. I have succeeded pretty well I think. English people who used formerly to keep the hotel herebeautiful place the whole country around is beautiful, almost surpassing Jersey; board £1, 1s. a-week-cheap enough. I shall take lessons, and will have plenty of opportunity of speaking German; and it will be so quiet and delightful (there being also pretty accommodation) in comparison with the bustle of a regular hotel, which I find, in my yet weak state, I cannot stand. only thing I regret is that you are not with me. that you may have heard of the gaiety of the Continent, you can form no idea of it; it beats all imagination to one who hasn't seen it. I fear, alas! I fear (indeed I am told so by some here who know something of it) that there is a dreadful immorality mixed up with it. As for religion, I fear there is little. The thought is deeply melancholy to a Christian mind, but may, by God's grace, be salutary.

The

All

This letter concludes with directions about money, of which she is to send him as much as she conveniently can, after distributing the rest in different ways, and receiving various items which are owing, with a host of other business down to details about his coats, of which he is sending back some and has need of others. A pleasant flutter of novelty, and pleasant observation, and the criticism of an entirely inexperienced mind, is in every line. Perhaps the reader will wonder to hear of the excessive gaiety of the sober commercial Germans in that high northern corner, where thrift and trade reign. But probably the young minister's unaccustomed eyes were dazzled by that life out of doors, with its smoke-cloud and its music, which to some spectators bears an aspect of anything but gaiety. And then his ears were also unaccustomed, and the effect of not understanding the talk about him-notwithstanding the German "in my best style," which made so much impression on the stranger