If this is not done, impositions and disputes are sure to qc

cur.

On arriving at Paris, I drove to several hotels, before I could get accommodated at all. I am now wretchedly lodged, and fear, from what I have already seen and heard, that I must waste a consi derable portion of valuable time, before I shall obtain such apartments as I wish. Good rooms are very scarce, many of the hotels garnis having been unfurnished during the revolution, and those which remain being nearly filled with foreigners, who, since the peace, have flocked hither in great numbers, from every nation of the world.

Persons, intending to visit Paris, ought to write some days be forehand to their correspondents, if they desire to be comfortably lodged on their arrival.'

To the palace and garden of the Thuilleries, to the Louvre, to the Museum of the Arts, and to the Gallery of Antiquities, our attention is next directed. We are pleased with the traveller's account of the effect produced on his imagination and feelings, by the magnificent and well arranged collection of pictures in the gallery of the Louvre; the length of which is at least equal to a quarter of an English mile:

At last I found myself in the magnificent room, which I have before mentioned, the walls of which are covered as far as the eye can reach with the sublimest efforts of human art. Where the mind has long been promised a pleasure, when fancy has dressed it in all her choicest colours, how seldom does the reality approach the phantom of heated imagination. For once I was not disappointed. I expected, it is true, a high gratification. I had formed to myself an exalted idea of the objects, which I was about to visit, yet the satisfaction I felt exceeded, far exceeded, what I supposed it possible for the power of sight to afford; nor did I believe that the hand of man was capable of attaining that degree of perfection, which I now beheld. For some time I was lost in wonder, I knew not where to fix my enraptured eye. A catalogue which was offered me, by one of the attendants, and which, as I afterwards found, is drawn up with great clearness and precision, roused me from this pleasing reverie, and gave some order to the train of my thoughts. The arrangement of the collection is admirable.

After viewing the masterpieces of la Sueur, le Brun, Nicolas Poussin, and the three Van Loos, I supposed I had already seen the utmost efforts of the art, and even, under this supposition, was ready to allow that my highest ideas of the power of painting fell short of what these specimens presented. Think of my surprise, when, looking on my catalogue, I found that I had not yet passed the limits of the French school. Astonished and delighted I went on. The Flemish, Dutch, and German masters occupy the second division. Among

ging: but, by appealing to a poor-looking magistrate, resembling the pannosus adus at Ulubra, he obtained satisfaction, without paying any costs, not even so much as for the summons. Well might an Englishman remark this circumstance! Rev.

them

them I beheld the exquisite works of Van Dyck, of Hans Holbein, of Paul Potter, of Rembrant, of Teniers, and of Rubens. Sublime as were the first objects that had claimed my admiration, even they were exceeded by the latter. Nor had I yet seen the acme of the art. Charmed with the fancy and execution of all the Flemish painters, I was particularly pleased with the beautiful pasturage, by Paul Potter, every object of which seems alive on the canvass.

A few steps would bring me in view of the wonders of Italy, to ́ see which so many of my countrymen had crossed the Alps; yet so enraptured was I with the objects already before me, that it required all the importunity of my companions, to persuade me to proceed. I was soon rewarded for this temporary sacrifice, and in contemplating the almost supernatural works of Corregio, of Caravaggio, of the Carracci, of Dominichino, of Guido, of Leonardo da Vinci, of Paul Veronese, of Raphael and of Titian, I discovered, that what I had seen before were only so many links in the great chain of perfection, which was now complete. If among these models of the art, you wish me to name some particular picture, I should give the preference to the communion of St. Jerome, by Dominichino, which in expression, colouring, feeling, and variety, seems to me to possess every beauty united.'

In the descriptive catalogue of antiquities, we have a history of the celebrated statue called The Apollo Belvidere; by which the reader is informed, in the true style of French vanity, that a hero guided by victory drew this statue from the Vatican, and has fixed it for ever on the banks of the Seine.'

Society in Paris is described as divided into three classes; Ist, l'ancienne noblesse, or old nobility; 2dly, the governmental class, or constituted authorities; and, 3dly, les parvenus, ou nouveaux riches, upstarts, or new gentry. The riches and luxury of this third class may be inferred from the following

extract:

Nothing can exceed the splendour of the persons of this description. The furniture of their houses, the dress of their wives, their table, their plate, their villas, in short, all the " agrémens" of life, are in the highest style of oriental magnificence.

To give you some idea of their manner of living, I will describe to you the house of madame *, which I yesterday obtained the permission of seeing, in her absence.

The house is situate in a street leading from the Boulevard, and is approached by a fine court, of considerable length. The back of the house looks on a very pretty garden, arranged à l'angloise. It was formerly the residence of a minister of state.

The drawing room, and salle à manger †, were not yet finished. The furniture prepared for them was rich. I did not think it particularly beautiful; but the bed room and bathing cabinet, exceeded in luxury every thing which I ever beheld, or even ventured to ima

* Recamier, we believe. Rep.

Eating room."

gine. The canopy of the bed was of the finest muslin, the covering of pink satin, the frame of beautiful mahogany, supported by figures in gold of antique shapes. The steps, which led to this delicious couch, were covered with red velvet, ornamented on each side with artificial flowers, highly scented. On one side stood, on a pedestal, a marble statue of Silence, with this inscription:

"TUTATUR SOMNOS ET AMORES CONSCIA LECTI."

On the other, a very lofty gold stand, for a taper or lamp. A fine mirror filled up one side of the bed, and was reflected by one at the top, and another at the opposite side of the room. The walls were covered with mahogany, relieved with gold borders, and now and then with glass. The whole in excellent taste. The bathing cabinet, which adjoined, was equally luxurious. The bath, when not in use, forms a sofa, covered with kerseymere edged with gold; and the whole of this cabinet is as pretty as the bed room. Beyond this room is the bed chamber of monsieur, plain, neat, and unaffected; and on the other side a little closet, covered with green silk, and opening on the garden, in which madame sits, when she amuses herself with drawing. To conclude, I find the "loves," which "Silence guards," and of which this paphian seat is the witness, are those of January and May; for the wife is twenty (the greatest beauty of Paris), and the husband something less than sixty.'

The author next relates his being present at the opening of the Legislative Body; his visit to the benevolent institution. in behalf of the deaf and dumb; and a specimen of the dullness and pedantry of Parisian society at a thé or evening party.

At last we come to the great feature of the picture, Bonaparte; and his portrait, though sketched with a few strokes, is (we are inclined to think) a strong likeness:

His complexion is uncommonly sallow, his countenance expres sive but stern, his figure little but well made, and his whole person, like the mind which it contains, singular and remarkable. If I were compelled to compare him to any one, I should name Kemble, the actor. Though Bonaparte is much less in size, and less handsome than that respectable performer, yet in the construction of the features, and ip the general expression, there is a strong resemblance. There is, however, such originality about the appearance of the first consul, that, without having seen him, it is difficult to form an idea of his person. The picture of Bonaparte at the review, exhibited some time back in Piccadilly, and the bust in Sèvre china, which is very common at Paris, and which has probably become equally so in London, are the best likenesses I have seen. As to his dress, he wore the grand costume of his office, that is to say, a scarlet velvet coat, richly embroidered with gold, to this he had added leather breeches, jockey boots, and a little plain cocked hat, the only ornament of

Silence guards the slumbers and the loves of this bed.'

which was a national cockade. His hair unpowdered was cut close in his neck.'

The speeches at the Tribunate are noticed as dull exhibitions; but the display of the ladies at the bal des étrangers was of an opposite character; and the author represents the indecorous mode of dressing, adopted by the Parisian belles, in as strong a light as any recent traveller. His reflections on this fashion deserve the attention of all such votaries of the mode.

A glance is taken of the various amusements of the Palais Royal, and we have a detailed account of the theatres, or spectacles.

At a party at the house of a fournisseur, or army contractor, the author saw General Berthier; and, that we may see him with our mind's eye, he informs us that

He is a little man, plainly dressed, with cropped hair. His countenance is expressive, when he speaks; but his figure is diminutive, and his appearance by no means military. He is extremely polite, gentlemanly, and affable. I am told, he is by birth "gentilhomme" and by his manner it is easy to see, that he must have passed the early part of his life in good company.'

The supper at a ball given by a ci-devant noble is represented as consisting of soups, hot dishes, ligumes, fruit, and pastry; after which, as a remove, two large plates, one of turbot and the other of salmon, made their appearance. This will strike the English reader as a singular arrangement: but it is asserted that all good French suppers conclude with fish.'

Particular notice is taken of the Carnival, and of the masks, processions, &c. in the streets; and it is remarked, in praise of the Parisians, that, in the midst of their mirth and levity on this occasion, no indecency shocks the public eye, no drunken persons make their appearance, no woman is insulted, and no quiet inoffensive man dragged into a quarrel.

We are next presented with accounts of Bonaparte's audience, and of his address to the English gentlemen introduced to him; of the antichamber of the Musée Central;-of the Bois de Boulogne and the promenade ;-of the palais du Luxembourg and of the Pantheon;-of Versailles, St. Cloud, Petit Trianon, St. Germain, Malmaison, and the Waterworks at Marly;-of the Promenade to Long Champ, and of the Te Deum sung at NotreDame in honour of the peace and the re-establishment of Religion of the Tribunals, or courts of law;-of the Manufactory of Gebelins, the Establishments of les Enfans trouvés and les Invalids, and le Musée des monumens François. To the last,' a list is subjoined of those monuments most deserving of notice. which have been preserved from the destructive hand of the Revolution; and from the tombs of departed greatness, a

postscript

postscript transports us to the festivity of the living, to nothing less than a Consular dinner at the Tuilleries, to which the wife of this gentleman was invited by the Chief Consul. The following is the statement of it which she gave to her husband on her return:

The entertainment was extremely elegant, and the sight very striking. More than two hundred persons sat down to table in a splendid apartment. The company consisted, besides the family of Bonaparte, of the ministers, the ambassadors, several generals, senators, counsellors of state, and other constituted authorities. The number of women present was by no means in proportion to that of the men, and did not exceed fifteen. All the English ladies, who had been presented to madame Bonaparte, were invited (though not their husbands) to this entertainment; but it happened, that only two remained at Paris.

The dinner was served entirely on plate and Sèvre china, the latter beating the letter B on every dish, and every plate; and the plateau was covered with moss, out of which arose innumerable natural flowers, the odour of which perfumed the whole room.

The first consul and madame Bonaparte conducted themselves with much ease, and spoke very affably to those around them.

The servants were numerous, splendidly dressed, and highly attentive. The dinner lasted more than two hours.'

A letter is devoted to a description, or rather enumeration, of the various literary establishments of Paris, which reflect so much honour on the French nation. It is remarked that

Perhaps there is no town in the known world, which affords such favourable opportunities of acquiring and cultivating knowledge, as that from which I am now writing. On this subject, equality in the best sense exists; and while the poor man has the finest libraries, and most extensive collections opened to his use, without any expence whatever, he, whose circumstances are moderately easy, obtains, for a trifling consideration, every possible means of additional improvement.'

If this traveller throws temptations in the way of the reader, and excites within his breast a strong desire of visiting the French capital, on the other hand he endeavours to allay such anxiety by prudential considerations. All schemes of emigra tion, under the idea of living cheaper than in England, he discourages by a calculation and statement of expences at Paris. The French, it is well known, in their ordinary mode of living, practise more self-denials than we do, and have not in their language a word which expresses what we mean by comfort; it is proper, therefore, that, in an estimate of the expence of an English family at Paris, we should consider it with English ideas and English habits;' and thus contempla