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seek a place of refuge and entertainment, a light gleamed in the eyes of the Marquis, and he reined us up at a hostelry called the Hermitage.

"There, in quite a primitive fashion, we had our luncheon, helping ourselves and each other in good homely American fashion, for we were as far from the amenities of civilization as though we were in Montana.

"After luncheon we walked about, looking at the crater, where fumes were quite apparent at the world of desolation around us, some of it centuries old, but as fresh and terrible as when it burst from the world of fire beneath us. But there was still another picture-one of sublime and marvelous beauty. There beneath us, in the clear, sunny air-there was Naples, queen among cities, and her villages clustering about her. Beautiful, wondrously beautiful, that panorama of hill and field and sea, that rolled before us thousands of feet below! We could count twenty villages in the plain, their white roofs massed together and spangling the green plain like gems."

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In Egypt.

General Grant arrived in Egypt early in January, 1878. The Khedive gave him a palace in the suburbs of the capital-an Oriental building, with a French decoration and furniture-and sent him up the Nile in his own yacht. General Grant made the fastest Nile trip on record. He went as far as the first cataract, the Island of Philae, visiting Thebes, Abidos, the Pyramids, and Memphis, and what added to the interest of the visit was that the Khedive sent with the party perhaps the most distinguished Egyptian scholar living, Brugsch, a most accomplished man, who knew hieroglyphics as well as he knew his own language, and made everything plain to the company.

"What a blank our trip would be without Brugsch," said the General one day, as the party were coming back from a ruin. John Russell Young, who accompanied General Grant up the Nile describes the journey and pastimes as follows:

"We breakfast whenever we please in the French fashion. The General is an early or late riser, according as we have an engagement for the day. If there are ruins to be seen in the morning, he is generally first on the deck with his Indian helmet swathed in silk, and as he never waits, we are off on military time. If there are no sights to be seen, the morning hours drift away. We lounge on the deck. We go among the Arabs and see them cooking. We lean over the prow and watch the sailors poke the Nile with long poles and call out the message from its bed. Sometimes a murderous feeling steals over some of the younger people, and they begin to shoot at a stray crane or pelican. I am afraid these shots do not diminish the resources of the Nile, and the General suggests that the sportsmen go ashore and fire at the poor, patient, drudging

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camel, who pulls his heavy-laden hump along the bank. There are long pauses of silence, in which the General maintains his long-conceded supremacy. Then come little ripples of real, useful conversation, when the General strikes some theme connected with the war or his administration. Then one wishes that he might gather up and bind these sheaves of history. Or perhaps our friend Brugsch opens upon some theme connected with Egypt. And we sit in grateful silence while he tells us of the giants who reigned in the old dynasties, of the gods they honored, of the tombs and temples, of their glory and their fall. I think that we will all say that the red-letter hours of our Nile journey were when General Grant told us how he met Lee at Appomattox, or how Sherman fought at Shiloh, or when Brugsch, in a burst of fine enthusiasm, tells us of the glories of the eighteenth dynasty, or what Karnak must have been in the days of its splendors and its pride. But you must not suppose that we have nothing but serious talk in those idle hours on the Nile."

At Pompeii.

It is said that General Grant, in speaking of his journey abroad, stated that "Pompeii was one of the few things which had not disappointed his expectations; that the truth was more striking than the imagination had painted," and that "it was worth a journey over the sea to see and study its stately, solemn ruins."

The Italian authorities did General Grant special honor on his visit to this place by directing that a house should be excavated. It is one of the special compliments paid to visitors of renown. Houses are shown, by the guide, that have been excavated in the presence of Murat and his queen, of Joseph II, Admiral Farragut, and General Sher

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