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ing well filled, and if this detail is, concrete be mixed at one time as can not carefully watched, the metal, being exposed in places, will be subject to rust.

Attaching Fence Wires to Posts.

Various devices have been suggested for attaching fence wires to the posts, the object of each being to secure a simple and permanent fastener or one admitting of easy re

be used before it begins to harden; but if an unavoidable delay prevents the posts being molded until after the concrete has begun to set, it is thought that a thorough regaging with sufficient water to restore normal consistency will prevent any appreciable loss of strength, though the concrete may have been standing one or two hours. In using a mold similar to

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Fig. 8.-Wooden mold for making fence posts with four tapering sides.

newal at any time. Probably noth-, those illustrated in figs. 7 and 8, it ing will answer the purpose better is necessary to provide a perfectly than a long staple or bent wire well embedded in the concrete, being twisted or bent at the end to prevent extraction. Galvanized metal must be used for fasteners since they are not protected by the concrete. A piece of small flexible wire, about 2 inches in length, threading the staple and twisted several times with a pair of pliers, holds the line wire in position (fig. 9).

smooth and even platform of a size depending upon the number of posts to be molded. A cement floor if accessible may be used to advantage. The molds when in place are given a thin coating of soft soap, the platform or cement floor serving as bottom of mold being treated in the same way. About 11⁄2 inches of concrete is spread evenly over the bottom and carefully tamped, so as to reduce it to a thickness of about 1 Molding and Curing Posts. inch. A piece of board cut as in fig. For proper method of mixing con- 7 will be found useful in leveling off crete see preceding instructions. It the concrete to the desired thickness is recommended that only so much | before tamping. On top of this layer

two reinforcing members are placed | three days, but it is better to leave about 1 inch from the sides of the them in place until the posts are

moved. Although a post may be hard and apparently strong when one week old, it will not attain its full strength in that length of time and must be handled with the utmost care to prevent injury. Carelessness in handling green posts frequently

mold. The molds are then filled and tamped in thin layers to the level of the other two reinforcing members, the fasteners for fence wires being inserted during the operation. These reinforcing members are adjusted as were the first two, and the remaining 1 inch of concrete tamped and leveled off, thus completing the post so far as molding is concerned. To avoid sharp edges which are easily chipped triangular strips may be placed in the bottom of mold along the sides, and when the molds have been filled and tamped, similar strips may be inserted on top. The top edges may be beveled with a trowel or by running an edging tool having a triangular projection on its bottom results in the formation of иде along the edges. Such a tool is shown in fig. 10 and can easily be made of wood or metal. It is not necessary to carry the bevel below the ground line.

The ends and sides of the mold may be removed after twenty-four

Fig. 9.-Detail showing method of attaching wire to post.

Fig. 10.-Tool used for beveling edges of posts.

cracks, which, though unnoticed at the time, give evidence of their presence later in the failure of the post.

Posts should be allowed to cure for at least sixty days before being placed in the ground, and for this purpose it is recommmended that when moved from the molding platform they be placed upon a smooth bed of moist sand and protected from the sun until thoroughly cured. During this period they should receive a thorough drenching at least once a day.

The life of the molds will depend upon the care with which they are handled. A coating of mineral oil or shellac may be used instead of soap to prevent the cement from sticking to the forms. As soon as the molds are removed they should be cleaned with a wire brush before being used again.

The cost of reinforced concrete hours, but the posts should not be fence posts depends in each case handled for at least one week, dur- upon the cost of labor and materials, ing which time they must be well and must necessarily vary in differsprinkled several times daily and ent localities. An estimate in any protected from sun and wind. The particular case can be made as folintermediate strips may be carefully lows: One cubic yard of concrete withdrawn at the end of two or will make 20 posts measuring 6

inches by 6 inches at bottom, 6, not unusual to give the blocks a facinches by 3 inches at top, and 7 feet ing of cement mortar consisting of long, and if mixed in the proportions about 2 parts sand to 1 of cement, 1-2-5, requires approximately- while the body of the block is com1.16 barrels of cement, at $2..$2.32 posed of a concrete of sufficient 0.44 cubic yard of sand, at 75c.. .33 strength, though not impervious. 0.88 cubic yard of gravel, at 75c. This outside layer of mortar adds practically nothing to the strength of the block, and is used simply to give a uniform surface and to render the face of the wall more nearly im.17 pervious to water.

Materials for 1 cubic yard concrete

Concrete for one post...
28 feet of 0.16-inch steel wire,
at 3 cents per pound....

Total cost of concrete and metal for one post.

.66

$3.31

.23

To this must be added the cost of mixing concrete, molding and handling posts, and the cost of molds, an addition which should not in any case exceed 7 cents, making a total of 30 cents per post.

It would not be practicable as a .06 rule to attempt the manufacture of concrete blocks without one of the many forms of molding machines designed for the purpose, nor would it be economical to purchase such a machine unless a sufficient number of blocks were required to justify such an outlay. Blocks in almost any desired shape and size, with either plain or ornamental faces, may be obtained on the market, and in the great majority of cases it is best to buy them from some reliable firm. Among the advantages claimed for hollow concrete block construction may be mentioned the following:

(1) Hollow block construction introduces a saving of material over brick or stone masonry.

are of

Concrete Building Blocks. Concrete building blocks, or cement blocks, as they are frequently called, are more extensively used now than ever before. These blocks are molded hollow primarily to reduce their cost, but this hollow construction serves other useful purposes at the same time. The funda- (2) The cost of laying concrete mental principles governing ordinary blocks is less than for brickwork. concrete work, so far as proportion- This is due to the fact that the ing and mixing materials is con-blocks, being larger, require a much cerned, apply equally well to the smaller number of joints and less manufacture of building blocks, and mortar, and, being hollow, it should be borne in mind that less weight than solid brickwork. strength and durability can not be attained by the use of any machine unless the cement, sand, and aggregate are of good quality, properly proportioned, and well mixed. The (4) Concrete blocks, being easily aggregate for blocks of ordinary size should be crushed stone or gravel not larger than one-half inch. One of the chief causes of complaint against the concrete building block is its porosity, but this defect is in a great measure due to the fact that in an endeavor to economize, too little cement is frequently used. It is

(3) A wall constructed of good concrete blocks is as strong or stronger than a brick wall of equal thickness.

molded to any desired form, will prove to be a far more economical building material than stone, which has to be dressed to shape.

(5) Experience has proved concrete to be a most excellent fire-resisting material.

(6) Concrete blocks, being hollow, tend to prevent sudden changes of

temperature within a house, making easy means for running pipes and it cool in summer and easily heated electric wires. These spaces may in winter. also be used wholly or in part for (7) The hollow spaces provide an | heating and ventilating flues.

DISCUSSIONS AT ONTARIO FARMERS' INSTITUTES, 1905.

Dairy Cattle.

A. I have not, but have only fed it

Q. If turnips taint the milk what one year and then, with plenty of can be fed in their place? sugar mangels and ensilage.

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Q. How do you dehorn calves? A. D. James, Langstaff: By clipping the hair from about the horn; then putting some Gillett's Lye, reduced to consistency of cream, upon the place.

Q. How would you proceed in selecting dairy cows in a district where feeding cattle is of prime importance.

A. Select cattle that give milk in quantity and quality that will pay well. Have scales in the stable to weigh each milking, and get the milk tested and raise calves for dairying from the best cows thus tested.

Q. When do you feed your cows? A. Always after milking.

Q. Do you think 6,000 pounds of milk too high a standard for a dairy Cow?

A. It is not high enough; better have 8,000 or even 9,000 pounds.

Q. How do you remedy the trouble of not having the butter come in a reasonable time in churning?

A. One way is to have some of your cows freshen during each month of the year.

Q. Have you found that barley meal has a tendency to lessen the milk flow?

Q. What time of the year do you prefer a heifer to come in?

A. In the fall. My experience is that the flow of milk is kept up longer.

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Q. What do you recommend in the case of a cow that has a tendency to milk fever?

A. Be sparing in feed before calv

ing.

Q. How much salt do you give a cow?

A. About one ounce a day. In summer they should have access to all the salt they want.

Q. What do you do for cows giving stringy milk?

A. A good purgative of salts. Q. Do you find that dehorning calves makes them rough with each other?

A. I have not. Calves may be teased or so treated when young to make them so. Some cattle are naturally

vicious, but I have no trouble.

Q. Would you get rid of a cow giving 5,500 pounds of milk?

A. Yes; if I could get another better to fill her place.

Q. Is separator milk injurious to calves?

A. Not if fed at right temperature, or in proper quantities; skim the froth off. Some give the calves all they will drink, which may be harmful.

Q. Can you give a cure for the Horn Fly?

A. W. C. Shearer, Bright: I gallon

crude petroleum; 1/2 gallon coal flour; mix all thoroughly together. Also supply some choice clover hay, bran, or crushed oats daily, with access at all times to pure, clean

oil; 1⁄2 gallon fish oil; 1 cupful crude carbolic acid. Mix all together and apply in a spray over the cattle 2 or 3 times a week.

Q. What is the best breed of dairy Cow?

A. There is no best breed, as there are poor milkers in all the breeds; but you cannot go wrong if you select good types of the dairy cow, from the Holstein, Ayrshire, Jersey, Guernsey, or Shorthorns of a milking strain.

Q. Can you get as much from a cow calving in November as if she calved in March?

A. Yes; I believe we can, as by keeping her up to normal all winter, we get an extra flow again on grass.

Q. Is it a good plan to cross dairy breeds?

A. John Donaldson, Port Williams, N. S.: No, as a rule, though, oftentimes a first cross will give excellent milking cows.

Q. Would you advise buying a Babcock test for ten cows?

A. Yes; if I could not get the skimming done at the factory.

Q. Do turnips injure the flavor of milk if fed immediately after milk

ing?

A. Yes.

Q. Will ensilage injure the flavor of milk?

A. Never with good ensilage, but sometimes with immature corn the ensilage becomes Sour and then it may have a tendency to do so.

Q. What is a cheap food on which to raise a dairy calf?

A. Feed with its own mother's milk for three weeks, then gradually change to skim milk with boiled flax seed for another three weeks; then change to grain gradually. After four months old, they will grow equally well on a mixture of 100 pounds boiled oil cake, 25 pounds ground flax, 50 pounds of low grade

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Q. Would you feed distillery slop and brewer's grains?

A. Yes, but I want them sweet and fresh.

Q. Does it pay to feed slop made of ground grains?

A. No, not if water is before the cows constantly.

Q. Do you recommend the use of stock foods as advertised?

A. No, but at times some may be fed as a tonic with profit.

Q. Do you prefer a cow having a thin narrow face?

A. I like a lean face, a wide muzzle, and a fine appearance.

Q. Do you recommend putting Lucerne into the silo?

A. M. Richardson, Caledonia: No; I believe that since we can grow more bulk of corn per acre that it is best to silo the corn crop and cure Lucerne in the ordinary way.

Q. Can you water cattle cheaper than by growing roots for feed?

A. G. H. Hutton, Easton's Corners: More cheaply, but not so effectively The result of root feeding has been demonstrated over and over again.

Q. Are records made by breeds at shows, a criterion for the farmer?

A. The farmers may not be able to get anything like the results from any one of the breeds tested, still the various breeds are on the same basis and the results would indicate the relative value of the different breeds.

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