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dead once deposited in this splendid chamber. Alas! for the vanity of human greatness, and the futile attempts of man to preserve that which is only dust, and properly belongs to dust again! The numerous catacombs in the immediate vicinity of these pyramids have all been plundered like this.

At the south end of this range we found several of these catacombs turned into dwellings. Families live in them, monopolizing the place of the dead! After examining a few more of these chambers, less splendid than the one I have described, we began to think of returning to the city. We, however, first made a hasty survey of the pyramid Sephrenes, which stands but a few rods west of the one we had ascended, and which, indeed, is but little inferior in size and height. Its sides, however, are covered with a smooth cement, which prevents its being ascended.

At four o'clock, having got rid of our Arab tormentors, we were on our donkeys, galloping towards Cairo, in haste to secure our passage through its gates, all of which are closed a little after sunset. We were successful in reaching just in time.

CHAPTER VI.

Rambles in Cairo-Slave-Market-The Citadel-Bastinado-Immense Burial Ground-Tombs of Mamelukes-The Pacha's Family TombTombs of the Caliphs-Egyptian Funeral-Mosque-Madhouse-False Tradition-Heliopolis - Description of Cairo-Oppressive Policy of Mehemet Ali.

On the next day I concluded to begin my various rambles in Cairo. After strolling among the bazars and workstalls for some hours, in company with Mr.

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C., we procured a guide to conduct us to the slavemarket. We did not go there with the expectation of deriving pleasure from the scene-far from it; but because it was one of the objects of attraction in Cairo. I should suppose this mart of human flesh to be situated near the centre of the city. It is entered by a narrow passage, and forms a court, around which are stalls, or chambers, in which different classes of slaves are sitting, and waiting the moment they shall be sold. In the open area, or court, were seated, on mats, in different groups, the number of about one hundred slaves. Two groups of these were, from appearance, diseased. Their countenances were fallen, and their whole appearance emaciated and sickly. This kind of article goes off cheap, being disposed of like damaged goods, for a mere trifle. The other groups in the open area were all composed of children, varying in ages of from eight to twelve. Something like twenty of these would form a group. Some of them were entirely naked, and others with but little to cover their nakedness. They were all black, being of the Nubian stock. Their skin, however, appeared smooth, their faces oval, their features regular, and their countenances mild.

We next commenced an examination of the stalls. The first we entered contained about ten young females of about eighteen. Three or four of these were of the black Nubian color, and the others of a dark yellow. These last were Abyssinians. They had regular and rather pretty features, and might have been considered beautiful, in spite of their copper complexion. Their forms were delicate and

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graceful, and there was an expression of thoughtful melancholy on their countenances which I should think a national characteristic; though it might have been heightened by a sense of their degraded condition. As we entered, the one I first passed looked at me wishfully, and held out her arm to be examined. She then ran out her tongue to show that she was in good health, and finally made every expression she could by signs, to induce me to purchase her. As I passed by she looked disappointed. Near by sat another, whose countenance was very sad, and her eyes gave evidence that she had been weeping, Passing to the next stall we there found another group of young females, very similar to those we had just seen. Here was a Nubian woman of about forty, - very black, but richly dressed, conversing with some of the slaves. Whether she was seeking to purchase a slave from among her own race, or was only conversing with them to raise their spirits, I was unable to learn. The enslaved were, however, far from being cheerful. Passing on, we found all the stalls on that side of the court to contain groups of young females (mostly Abyssinians), waiting to be sold. From signs made by many of them as we entered, they were impatient to be bought, that they might know the worst of their destiny.

On a balcony at the east side of the court were a number of young men, standing and sitting, ready to be sold. Among them were some of the Abyssinian, but they were mostly of the Nubian stock. From all that we could see, the sales that day were not very brisk, as we did not see a single purchaser during our stay. I was informed that the prices of

THE PACHA'S PALACE.

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slaves at Cairo range from twenty to one hundred dollars. Painfully disgusted with this sickening scene, I turned away with no desire to visit it again.

On the morning of December 22d, finding a donkeyboy who spoke some English, I mounted his donkey and set out to see the citadel and other scenery in that vicinity. For a mile and a half I found it a most difficult job to work my passage through narrow streets, literally jammed with loaded camels, donkeys, carts and human beings, all in motion. The first place we visited was the Pacha's zoological establishment. This is a low stone building, of strong and ample dimensions. His variety of wild animals, however, is not large, mostly consisting of a few fine-looking lions, tigers and leopards. The Pacha, I understand, designs, however, to increase this establishment to a large and full variety.

Near the gate of the citadel, I was shown what is called the well of Joseph, but at present better known as the well of Saladin. This well is said to be forty feet wide at the mouth, and two hundred and twenty feet deep. The whole is cut through a solid rock, to a spring of brackish water on a level with the Nile. The water is raised in buckets on a wheel turned by a buffalo. The exceeding large size of this well enables a person to see its entire depth to the water.

The interior of the citadel presents an area of several acres of level and handsome ground. On it, as I entered, were standing several Arabian chargers, splendidly caparisoned. On the balcony of the Pacha's palace were seated several officers of high rank. Sentinels were placed in different directions, walking to and fro. From the west parapet of the citadel, the

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prospect is beautiful and fascinating. The western suburbs of the city, Old Cairo, the Nile, Gizah, the pyramids, the site of Memphis, with a vast extent of Egypt's fruitful valley, are spread out in beautiful variety. Outside the citadel, and hundreds of feet below it, is a large parade-ground. A line of barracks stretched along its west side, in front of which troops were parading and music playing.

Here the palace of Mehemet Ali occupies a commanding and picturesque position. It is a handsome and substantial edifice, and contains some fine apartThe Pacha and his son Ibrahim were both up the Nile during my stay in Cairo, so that I had not the privilege of seeing these lions of the East.

ments.

Passing from one place to another, I, partly by accident, entered the room where the governor of Cairo holds his court and transacts other business. A crowd was gathered in this apartment, and as I entered I saw the governor standing at the farther end. He is a man, I should judge, of about sixty. My attention, however, was immediately directed to another transaction about to take place. A miserable ragged-looking Arab was just laid on the floor to be bastinadoed. His position was face downward. Two men were standing over him, one each side, with whips like large cowhides in their hands. Four men held the culprit down. The blows fell thick and heavy on the poor wretch's naked feet, while he screamed most piteously. When the full number had been given, he attempted to rise, but could not stand, and was borne out by his friends, groaning as he went. The governor, in the meantime, stood as though hardened to such transactions,

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