rough of Elvet, the building of Elvet bridge, and the completion of the citywall along the bank of the Wear; the repair of the Castle of Northallerton, and the erection of the keep to the fortress of Norham. He also founded and liberally endowed the hospitals of Sherburn and of St James', near Northallerton. He restored the foundation of the collegiate church at Darlington, and built the beautiful church still extant there. To him the citizens of Durham were indebted for their first charter. One of his successors, Anthony Beck, rivalled him in the greatness of his wealth and the magnificence of his public works. He is said to have been the adviser of Edward I. in his dishonest policy towards Scotland. Among many other distinguished men Durham has numbered among its prelates Cousin Lord Crew, the testator of the magnificent charity of Bamborough Castle and lands; Bishops Talbot, Butler, the author of the Analogy, Egerton, Thurlow, Shute Barrington, and Dr Maltby. The cathedral, a magnificent edifice, stands on the highest part of the eminence which is occupied by the city. It was founded in the year 1093, and the successive additions which have been made to it are not only a perfect specimen of the Norman architecture, but a striking illustration of the gradual changes in the English style to the beginning of the fifteenth century. It contains the remains of St Cuthbert, brought to light in 1827, of the venerable Bede, several of whose MSS. are in the cathedral library, of Ralph Lord Neville, who commanded the English at the battle of Neville's Cross, &c. In the churchyard is a monument to Robert Dodsley, the bookseller, author of the Economy of Human Life. The cathedral library contains a number of curious and interesting works, MSS. and relics. The castle of Durham, which stands opposite the cathedral, was erected by William the Conqueror, and, till recently, was the residence of the Bishops of the Palatinate. A university was established at Durham during the Commonwealth, but, on the restoration of monarchy, it was dissolved. Another university was opened in 1833, and is now attended by nume rous students. Its funds are drawn by act of Parliament from the property of the bishopric. The Norman chapel of the castle is appropriated to the use of the college. The dining-hall is used as the college-hall, and the keep has been restored in good taste, and fitted up as college-chambers. This university is allowed to grant degrees in the several faculties, and a royal charter was granted to it in 1837. Besides the cathedral, Durham possesses six churches, several meeting-houses, a Roman Catholic chapel, the court-houses, a new prison, erected in 1809, at the cost of L.120,000 ; the Guildhall, erected by Bishop Tunstal in 1555; an infirmary, a theatre, the remains of Finchall Abbey in a vale near the river, a mechanics' institute, and numerous educational and charitable institutions. The walks round the city afford the most charming promenades. About three-quarters of a mile distant is the site of the Maiden Castle, a fortress ascribed to the Romans, as also some remains of the Iknield Street. Saline, chalybeate, and sulphureous springs are found in the neighbourhood. One mile

west of the city is Neville's Cross, erected by Ralph Lord Neville in memory of the defeat and capture of David II. Two M. P. Pop. 14,151.

To Sunderland, 13 miles; Sedgefield, 11; Stockton, 21; Witton Gilbert, 3; Lanchester, 8; Wolsingham, 15; Stanhope, 204; St John Weardale, 274 ; Bishop Auckland, 104; Staindrop, 19; Barnard Castle, 244.

Six miles from Durham is CHESTER LE STREET, built upon an old Roman road, and on or near a Roman station. It became, A. D. 882, the seat of the bishoprick, which was removed hither from Lindisfarne. In 995, a Danish invasion drove away the bishop and his clergy, who afterwards settled at Durham. The church is an interesting building, with a fine tall taper spire, 156 feet in height. It was formerly a collegiate church, and has been famous from the time of St Cuthbert, whose remains rested here 113 years before they were conveyed to Durham. This church contains a collection of stone-effigies of the Lords of Lumley from Liulph, the Saxon founder of the family, to the reign of Elizabeth. They are fourteen in number, each resting on its altar tomb, and the name, armorial bearings, and immediate connections of each knight or baron are displayed on a tablet on the wall above his tomb. Pop. of township, 2599.

One mile distant is Lumley, a seat of the Earl of Scarborough. This noble building stands on a fine gradual elevation above the Wear. It is a quadrangle of yellow freestone, having an open court or area in the centre, with four uniform towers. A noble gatehouse projects from the centre, with overhanging turrets. The castle is supposed to have been built in the latter part of the fourteenth century. The apartments are unfurnished, and the pictures are chiefly portraits of the ancient family of the Lumleys. The great hall is ninety feet long, and exhibits striking features of feudal customs and old English manners. About a mile distant is Lambton Castle, the seat of Earl Durham, which was built in 1797 on the site of the old house of Harraton, the former seat of the Hedworth's. It occupies an elevated situation on the banks of the Wear, and is surrounded by pleasant grounds.

Pre

NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE is supposed to have derived its origin from Pons Ælii, the second station from the eastern extremity of the Roman wall. vious to the Conquest the place was called Monkchester, from the number of monastic institutions; its present name was derived from a castle erected here by Robert, eldest son of William the Conqueror, on his return from an expedition into Scotland. Newcastle was anciently the resort of numerous pilgrims, who came to visit the holy well of Jesus' Mount, now Jesmond, a mile north-east of the town. One of the principal streets in Newcastle is still called Pilgrim Street. Another ancient town, called Pampedon, appears to have been included in the limits of the modern Newcastle; its name may be traced in the modern Pandon Hall, Pandon Bank, &c. Newcastle has been the scene of many most interesting events in the history of England. David I. of Scotland made himself master of the town in the reign of Stephen, and obliged the people to swear

allegiance to the Empress Maude. Here John of England and William the Lion of Scotland had a conference in the year 1209. Here again Alexander of Scotland and his Queen came, in 1235-36, and had a conference with the King of England. Here John Baliol did homage to Edward I. for the crown of Scotland. In 1293, the famous Sir William Wallace, in one of his inroads into England, made several vehement but unsuccessful attacks upon the town. In 1318, during the reign of Edward II., an unsuccessful attempt at a permanent peace between the Scots and English was made here-two nuncios from the Pope, and two envoys from Philip of France, besides the English and Scotch commissioners, being present. In 1342, David Bruce, King of Scotland, made an unsuccessful attack upon the town shortly before the battle of Neville's Cross; and, twelve years afterwards, commissioners met here to consult on his ransom. In 1642, Newcastle was besieged by the Scottish army under General Lesley; but the Marquis of Newcastle, who was governor for the King, successfully defended the town against him. In the next year, however, the Scots under General Leven took it by storm; but Sir John Marley, then mayor, retired to the castle, with about 500 men, which he held till terms of capitulation were ob tained. In 1636, above 5000 persons died of the plague at Newcastle. In 1646, Charles I. was brought hither from Newark by the Scots, to whom he had surrendered himself. Newcastle is supposed to have been incorporated by William Rufus; but the first mayor was appointed in the reign of Henry III.

The town, which has more than doubled its size during the present century, is situated on the summit and declivities of three lofty eminences, rising from the north bank of the Tyne, and ten miles from its mouth. The town of Gateshead occupies the opposite bank, and may be regarded as a sort of suburb of Newcastle. "A strange mixture of ancient and modern objects strikes your eye in the more lofty and prominent features of Newcastle. There stands, tall, and stalwart, and square, and black as ink, the old donjon-keep of Robert Curthose, the son of the Conqueror. To the left still higher towers over the town the fine steeple of St Nicholas, and to the right the new and lofty column in honour of Earl Grey. Here, along the banks of the river, you see ranges, one above another, of dim and dingy buildings, that have stood for centuries amid the smoke of the great capital of coal; and there, on its bold eminence, a Grecian fabric, standing proudly aloft, like the Temple of Minerva in Athens. Beyond it, again, you catch the tops of houses, and ranges of streets, that indicate a degree of modern magnificence which at once astonishes you in the midst of so much that is different, and stimulates you to a nearer inspection.`

Newcastle has undergone a most wonderful change during the last few years. In the centre of the town the old and narrow streets have been swept away, and some of the noblest and most magnificent streets and squares in the kingdom erected in their room. The person by whose genius and industry this marvellous change has been effected is Mr Grainger, a native of the town, who has

HOWETT's Visits to Remarkable Places, 2d Series, p. 287.

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made his way from the condition of a charity boy, and the apprentice to a carpenter and builder. "The following," says Miss Martineau,* is a summary of five years' work of Mr Grainger, from August 1834 to August 1839. The old property removed consisted of two theatres, the late butcher-market, Anderson Place, one large inn, eight public houses, eighty private houses, and a great number of workshops and inferior buildings. The site of the improvements cost £145,937, workmen's wages and materials, £499,753; total, £645,690. Out of this have arisen the following: nine new streets, extending collectively 1 mile 289 yards; the new market, the central exchange, new theatre, new dispensary, music hall, lecture room, two chapels, Incorporated Company's Hall, two auction marts, ten inns, twelve public houses, forty private houses, and 325 houses with shops. The value of the whole amounts to £995,000." Besides these magnificent erections, Mr Grainger's plan comprehends the junction of several railways, the formation of extensive quays, the erection of ranges of manufactories, and on the high ground of villas and terraces.

The other objects of interest in Newcastle are St Nicholas' Church, a handsome edifice, with a beautiful spire in the form of an imperial crown, an altarpiece by Tintoretto, and a valuable library, containing, among other curious books, the Bible of Hexham Abbey ;-St Andrew's Church, a very ancient structure, part of it of Norman architecture-St John's Church, containing an ancient font and several ancient monuments; All Saints' Church, a modern edifice of Grecian architecture, with a steeple 202 feet high; St Ann's, St Thomas's, Mary Magdalene, &c. ; the infirmary, the Keelmen's Hospital, the monument erected to Eary Grey, surmounted by a statue of that nobleman; the Royal Arcade, 250 feet long, by 20 wide and 35 feet high, &c. The new covered market is pronounced to be the finest in the kingdom. Its area is more than two acres. Newcastle also possesses several meeting houses, hospitals, and other charitable institutions, a literary and scientific institution, containing a fine library and reading room, a museum room of Egyptian antiquities, a gallery of Roman altars, and other antiquities, &c. The free grammar school was founded by Thomas Horsley, who was mayor of Newcastle in 1525. Here the late Lords Eldon, Stowell, and Collingwood, the poet Akenside, and other eminent persons received the earlier part of their education.

The principal business of Newcastle is in the shipment of coals, the produce of the surrounding coal-pits. About three millions of tons of coals are shipped annually from the river Tyne. The other chief articles of export are lead, cast and wrought iron, glass and pottery, copperas and other chemical productions, soap, colours, grindstones, salt, and pickled salmon. The imports are wine, spirituous liquors, and fruit, corn, timber, flax, tallow, and hides from the Baltic, and tobacco and various other articles from North America. Newcastle has a share in the Greenland fisheries, and possesses glass-houses, potteries and manufactories of iron, steel, and woollen cloths. A number of persons are engaged in ship-building, and the branches of trade connected with it.

* Penny Magazine, March, April, and May 1840.

Newcastle returns two members to Parliament. Pop. 49,860. GATESHEAD in Durham may be regarded as a suburb of Newcastle, to which it is united by a stone bridge. The church is a handsome building. There are several manufactories of wrought and cast iron in the town, and in the vicinity are coal-pits. One M. P. Pop. of par. 19,505.

CIII. FROM NEWCASTLE TO BERWICK-UPON-TWEED THROUGH MORPETH AND ALNWICK, 63 Miles

Gosforth House, C. J.

Brandling, Esq.

Seaton Burn, H. Hewitson, Esq.

Arcot, G. S. Storey, Esq. and 5 miles distant on the coast, the ruins of Seaton Delaval, the property of Lord Hastings.

55

Four miles distant from Shield Green is Widdrington Castle, and 7 miles dis-54 tant on the coast, Cresswell Hall, A.J.B. Cresswell, Esq. M. P. Widdrington Castle 531 was a noble structure, but 514 was unfortunately destroyJed by fire. The only remaining part of it is an octangular embattled tower, 48 to which a square modern edifice has been added. The 44 family of Widdrington was formerly of great consideration in this county. The first baron lost his life at the battle of Wiganlane, in the cause of Charles II. His grandson forfeited the estate 39 in the Rebellion of 1715. A 388 lady of this family is the heroine of Percy's beautiful ballad, the Hermit of Wark-38 worth.

36 Nelson's Monument. 26 son, Esq.

351

Newton.

28