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The school-house has been lately rebuilt through the munificence of the late Mr Bolton of Storrs. It stands on an eminence to the east of the village, and forms a handsome edifice. The view from the front is exquisitely beautiful, compris ing the whole of the upper half of the lake. The mountains round the head, into the recesses of which the waters seem to penetrate, arrange themselves in highly graceful forms, and the wooded heights of the opposite shore cast a deep shadow upon the "bosom of the steady lake." From this point Belle Isle appears to be a portion of the mainland.

In addition to the villas already enumerated, there are in the neighbourhood, Holly Hill (Mrs Bellasis,) The Craig (Sir T. S. Pasley,) Birthwaite (G. Gardner, Esq.,) Rayrigg (Rev. F. Fleming,) The Wood (Mr Pennington,) St Catherine's (the Earl of Bradford,) Elleray, Orrest Head (John Braithwaite, Esq.,) Belle Grange (Ed. Curwen, Esq.,) Wray (Wm. Wilson, Esq.)

Several interesting walks will be pointed out to strangers, amongst which we may mention those through the parsonage-land to the Ferry Point, and to Storrs, If the tourist will take the trouble to proceed about half a mile along the road to Brant Fell, he will be rewarded by one of the finest views of the lake he can obtain. The Fells of Furness are seen across the lake, but the murmur of -"bees that soar for bloom,

High as the highest peak of Furness Fells."*

is of course inaudible. A pleasing walk of four or five miles may be obtained thus; pursue the road to Ambleside until it enters that from Kendal (this portion of the walk will be particularized presently :) turn to the right, and keep on this road for about a mile. The Wood, St Catherine's, and Elleray, are passed on the left. The last is the property of Professor Wilson of Edinburgh, and was at one time occupied by the late Major Hamilton, the author of Cyril Thornton, of a history of the Peninsular Campaigns, and other literary works. The house is perched upon the hill-side, having beautiful views of the surrounding scenery visible from its windows. It is thus alluded to in one of the poems of its

owner:

"And sweet that dwelling rests upon the brow
(Beneath its sycamore,) of Orrest Hill,

As if it smiled on Windermere below,

Her green recesses and her islands still!"

A narrow lane branches off from the Kendal road near the Orrest Head gate, by which Bowness will be reached one mile and a-half from Orrest Head.

The more distant excursions will include the valley of Troutbeck,† the circuit of the two sections of Windermere, Esthwaite Water, and Coniston Lake. These are but a few, but an inspection of the chart will suggest others.

Quitting Bowness for Ambleside, the stately woods of Rayrigg are entered three-quarters of a mile from the former place. A bay of the lake is then seen to project almost to the road. Rayrigg House stands on the left near the water's

WORDSWORTH.

For a description of this valley refer to page 226.

edge; shortly before emerging from the wood, the road ascends a steep hill, and then pursues a level course, affording from its terrace a magnificent view of the lake-a view" to which," says Wilson," there was nothing to compare in the hanging gardens of Babylon. There is the widest breadth of water-the richest foreground of wood—and the most magnificent background of mountains, not only in Westmorland, but-believe us—in all the world." Our old acquaintances, the two Pikes of Langdale, are easily recognized. On the left is Bowfell, a square-topped hill, between which and the Pikes, Great End and Great Gable peep up. On the left of Bowfell, the summit of Scawfell Pike is faintly visible. The road is intersected two miles from Bowness by the Kendal and Ambleside road, at a place called Cook's House, nine miles from Kendal. A road proceeds into Troutbeck in a line with the one over which we have been conducting the tourist. From Cook's House to Troutbeck Bridge is almost a mile. From this place a road conducts by the west bank of the stream to the village of Troutbeck, the nearest part of which is a mile and a half distant. Continuing our progress towards Ambleside, Calgarth, embosomed in trees, is passed on the left. The late Bishop Watson built this mansion, and resided here during the latter years of his life; it is still occupied by his descendants. Two miles beyond is Low Wood Inn, which, standing pleasantly on the margin of the lake at its broadest part, is an excellent station for those who are able to devote a few days to the beauties of the neighbourhood, Most of the excursions recommended to be made from Ambleside may, with almost equal advantage, be performed from this inn. Close at hand is Dove's Nest, the house Mrs Hemans inhabited one Her description of the place, taken from her delightful letters, will not be deemed uninteresting: :-"The house was originally meant for a small villa, though it has long passed into the hands of farmers, and there is, in consequence, an air of neglect about the little demesne, which does not at all approach desolation, and yet gives it something of touching interest. You see everywhere traces of love and care beginning to be effaced-rose-trees spreading into wildness-laurels darkening the windows with too luxuriant branches; and I cannot help saying to myself,' Perhaps some heart like my own in its feelings and sufferings has here sought refuge and repose.' The ground is laid out in rather an antiquated style; which, now that nature is beginning to reclaim it from art, I do not at all dislike. There is a little grassy terrace immediately under the window, descending to a small court, with a circular grass-plot, on which grows one tall white-rose tree. You cannot imagine how much I delight in that fair, solitary, neglected-looking tree. I am writing to you from an oldfashioned alcove in the little garden, round which the sweet briar and the rosetree have completely run wild ; and I look down from it upon lovely Winandermere, which seems at this moment even like another sky, so truly is every summer cloud and tint of azure pictured in its transparent mirror.

summer.

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"I am so delighted with the spot, that I scarcely know how I shall leave it.

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The situation is one of the deepest retirement; but the bright lake before me, with all its fairy barks and sails, glancing like things of life' over its blue water, prevents the solitude from being overshadowed by anything like sadness." Wansfell Holm, (George Warden, Esq.) is seen on the right, immediately before reaching the head of Windermere. The road for the last three or four miles has been alternately approaching to and receding from the margin of the lake, but never retiring further from it than a few fathoms. At Waterhead is the neat residence of Mr Thomas Jackson, and further on, Waterside, (Mr William Newton,) is passed on the left. Ambleside, the termination of our perambulation of twenty-nine miles, is entered one mile beyond.

M 2

ON RIGHT FROM AMBLESID.

KESWICK, 16 Miles.

From

Keswick.

From

Ambles.

ON LEFT FROM AMBLESIDE.

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Excavations of great size have 123 White Moss Slate Quarry. 2 The road here winds round

been made here. At this place
the old road to Grasmerel
branches off. It is shorter,|
and to be preferred by those on
foot, for the fine views it com-
mands of Rydal and Grasmere
'lakes. It leads past "The
Wishing Gate."

One of these cottages was 121 Wordsworth's dwelling for seven years, De Quincey afterwards resided in it for some time.

The Hollins.

Parties staying at Grasmere or the Swan, should visit Easedale, a recess of Grasmere. It contains a lonely tarn, surrounded by lofty rocks.

"Who does not know the fam- 114 ous Swan ?"

A mile beyond the inn, a mountain road strikes off into Patterdale, climbing on the way a steep haws between Fair Field and Seat Sandal, and passing a desolate sheet of water, called Grisedale Tarn, lying between Seat Sandal, and Helvellyn.

Along the margin of GRASMERE LAKE.

Town End.

Road on the left to Grasmere village, a sweet little place, near which is Allan Bank, Thomas Dawson, Esq., and the Cottage, Orrell, Esq.

Swan Inn, The ascent of Helvellyn is not unusually commenced here.

3

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Grasmere a projecting rock. Lake suddenly breaks upon the view beyond the projection.

This lake is one mile and a quarter in length, and one-third of a mile broad. It has a single island in the centre. The hills around are happily disposed.

The view from the road near the head of the lake, looking forward, is extremely fine. Silver How is seen over the southwest angle of the water; right onward, is Helm Crag, the summit of which is strewn with large blocks of stone, presenting many eccentric forms. Green thought he saw a likeness to a lion and a lamb. West, to a mass of antediluvian remains, and Otley says, that viewed from Dunmail Raise, a mortar elevated for throwing shells into the valley, is no unapt comparison. The road is seen to pass over Dunmail Raise, a depression between two hills, that on the left, is Steel Fell, the other, Seat Sandal.

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Armboth House, W. Jackson, Esq., on the west shore.

Half way down the lake on the right, are some houses called Fisher's Place, near which are some pretty cascades formed by a stream flowing off Helvellyn.

Pedestrians frequently cross Armboth Fell to the village of Watendlath, proceeding thence to Keswick. Splendid views of Derwentwater are obtained in the descent. Near the foot of Thirlemere, one extremity of the vale of St. John is passed. The views along it, with Saddleback beyond, are very fine. The celebrated "Castle Rock" stands at the entrance on the right. "From a field on the eastern side of the road, and a little short of the tenth milestone, the view of the vale of St. John presents a most singularly interesting assemblage of the wild and the lovely."-Green.

Naddle Fell.

Hence may be seen the three mountains, Skiddaw, Saddleback, and Helvellyn.

102

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Toll Bar. The road rises gradually until it attains the height of 720 feet, at the pass of

DUNMAIL RAISE.

Enter Cumberland.

Steel Fell on the left.

Seat Sandal on the right.

8 Horse's Head, Wytheburn.

The village, called locally "the city," is half a mile distant on the left.

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Fair Field.

Seat Sandal.

6

73

"They now have reach'd that pile of stones,

Heap'd over brave King Dun

mail's bones,

He who once held supreme

command,

Last king of rocky Cumberland; His bones, and those of all his power,

Slain here in a disastrous hour."

Wordsworth.

Thirlemere is in view.

The ascent of Helvellyn from this inn is shorter, but steeper, than from any other place." Opposite the inn, is the chapel which Wordsworth describes

as

-"Wytheburn's modest house)
of prayer,
As lowly as the lowliest dwell-
ing."

Eagle Crag is seen hanging! over the upper end of the lake, a sheet of water, environed by frowning precipices, two and a half miles long, 500 feet above the level of the sea, and about 100 feet in depth. There is a small island near the shore at its foot. It is so narrow as to allow a wooden bridge to be thrown across its middle. To obtain some picturesque views, the lake should be crossed by this bridge, and the road on the west shore taken, which joins the turnpike road, a little be10 yond the twelfth mile-stone. Raven Crag is a fine object near the foot. This lake is the property of T. S. Leathes, Esq., whose residence, Dalehead House, is in the neighbourhood.

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Shoulthwaite Moss, backed by a rocky hill called Bend.

A farm-house on the left, shaded by wood, is named Causey Foot.

142 When the pedestrian reaches a piece of open ground in the descent, he is advised to enter one of the fields on the left, to obtain a view of the whole expanse of Derwentwater.

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