BROWNE FAMILY. THE manuscript from which the following is printed, is, with others of the Lynde papers, now in the Wм. P. UPHAM. John Herbert Esqr. Susanah A JOURNEY TO THE WEST IN 1817. NOTES OF TRAVEL BY A SALEM MECHANIC ON HIS WAY TO THE OHIO FIFTY YEARS AGO. SELECTED FROM HIS JOURNAL BY JAMES KIMBALL. THE traveller of the present day can have a very imperfect idea of the discomfort and trials attendant upon a long journey fifty years ago. The lumbering Stage-coach, at six miles the hour, has now been superseded by the luxuriant railroad cars at forty miles, whilst for the purposes of trade, steam is again put to service, causing the more rapid interchange of the varied products of the different sections of our great and still increasing territory. In order to show the contrast between these two periods, I shall avail myself of the recorded experience of one, who, with several others, commenced a journey for the purposes of trade to the far West in the year 1817, and thus to compare the West of to-day, with her population, which is expressed by millions, and her wealth by hundreds of millions, with the Territory of that period, inhabited by a poor and determined people, with few comforts, and those wrested by hard labor from the uncultivated wilds of that far distant region. The war of 1812 was very injurious to the industry of New England. Trade, which had been almost destroyed, did not speedily revive with the return of peace. Mechanical industry was very much depressed, and was looking out for new fields to employ its labor and its skill. The glowing accounts given of the fertility of the great North-west, led large numbers of our farmers and mechanics to turn their faces westward, and to them we are indebted to-day for the planting of New England ideas in the best and richest portion of our country. It must be borne in mind, that the North-west Territory was then an uncultivated wilderness. A few Essex county men had, as early as 1788, made the first white settlement at Marietta. Ohio, a portion of this Territory, was separated and admitted as a State in 1802. Indiana in 1816, and Illinois in 1818. And yet to-day these States are covered with a net-work of railroads, running in every direction through their entire area, more than rivalling the older States in their enterprise, whilst in population they have become the great centre of the Union. The Journal, to which I shall refer, was kept on a voyage from Sa lem to Baltimore, thence across the mountains to Pittsburg, and thence down the river to Athens in Ohio. The return trip was on horseback from Athens, through Pennsylvania to New York, and thence to Salem. On the 18th of September, 1817, at 4 o'clock, the writer sailed from Salem on board the schooner Angler, John Shillaber, master, bound to Baltimore. Nothing unusual transpired during the voyage. On the 27th, they made Cape Henry and entered the Chesapeake, making little progress on account of stormy weather. On the 29th, came to Kent's Island. It is described as being about twenty miles long, with many fine plantations and neat houses, and most of it seemed to be under fine cultivation. The British took possession of this island during the war, as a point of operations against North Point. I did not blame them for choosing this spot, as it is a most beautiful and romantic place. If they had remained here it would have been to their credit, and saved many lives. But being flushed with their successes up the Patuxet, led them on to make a desperate push; but they met with a warm reception, losing their commander, Lord Ross. This discouraged them; they abandoned their attempt as a too costly undertaking. There were a large number of the citizens of Baltimore who fell in defending the place. On the 30th came to anchor, North Point bearing N. W. about five miles. This is the memorable place where the battle was fought. The day is very pleasant, and we are laying idle for the want of wind. About 4 P. M., there being a number of passengers on deck, who espied something floating on the water, which looked to them like a spar, but seeing it go up and down, they cried out it was the Sea Serpent. Some of us being in the cabin, thinking they were making fun of us, did not go on deck until we were assured that they were in earnest. All of us that went up saw it; it was about the length of the vessel. We had a passenger on board who saw it in Gloucester, and he thought it looked as it did when he saw it, there. Wednesday, Oct. 1st. Arrived at the wharf in Baltimore, all safe and in good health. Here it is all life and animation, yet they say it is quite dull here; but it seems to me that there is more business done in the morning before breakfast, than there is in Salem in a month. The steamboats coming and going, bringing thousands of passengers, and the carriages running in every direction, make it look like life. Some of these steamboats are four or five hundred tons. There are hundreds of craft which come from down the bay, bringing all kinds of vegeta bles, with calves, pigs, and poultry for their market, which abounds in everything that is needed. The boats also bring great quantities of oysters, which are sold very cheap. Oct. 2d. Commenced unloading our goods, but by the time we got them half out it began to rain, so that we were obliged to return them on board the vessel again, giving me another opportunity to view the city, which I improved, knowing it would be the last. I took this opportunity to view the buildings which were being erected. The one erecting to the memory of Washington is the most elegant I have ever seen. It stands on an eminence which commands a beautiful view of the city. The material of which it is built looks some like marble. The base is about forty feet square. When completed it is to be 160 feet high, with circular stairs to the top; it is now a few feet above the base. There is another monument building in commemoration of the worthies who fell at the battle of North Point. I had no idea that this city was so large. The business done here must be immense. The steamboats and sailing craft from down the bay coming and going continually, bringing their thousands of passengers, and the immense wagons, loading daily for the westward, rather astonishes a man from quiet New England. Oct. 3d. Commenced loading our wagons; got all in and packed off about 3 o'clock, over the turnpike for the untried wilds of the West. We travelled about three miles the first night, and then put up. We expected to have gone eight or ten miles. The wagoners never accomplish much the first day; they drink so freely whilst in Baltimore, that it takes them one night to get regulated. They are an independent class of men, but rather ill bred, which arises from their being so much together, as they go in company when they can, and most of their lives. are spent on the road. We had an excellent supper and good accom modations. Oct. 5th. Started again and arrived at "Union," seven miles from "Westminster;" thence to "Tanney," sixteen miles, to "Emets-town" nine miles, and put up for the night at the foot of the South Mountain. Oct. 6th. Started at 6 o'clock, and took breakfast six miles from Emets-town. Proceeded on to "Waynbourough" about ten miles, and put up for the night with Mr. Cochrane, who had a nice house, and gave us fine accommodations. I have made no remarks respecting the country, but since I have arrived over the mountains, I can the better judge. The soil is light yellow loam, generally very level, with gradual swales; but they don't appear to have any rocks until you get to the foot of the mountain. It is well wooded with the various kinds of oaks, chestnut, hickory, walnut, and sycamore, with a few pines on the top of the mountain. The Apple trees excel anything I have ever seen in Massachusetts; they are the finest trees, and produce the fairest and best-flavored fruit I ever saw. The fruit was rotting upon the ground, because they could not find the time to gather it. There are a great many log-houses, some of which are very handsome, some of brick and stone. There are some very fine meetinghouses, but a great many more taverns than meeting-houses. Oct. 7th. Started at 6 o'clock, travelled five miles, and took breakfast at Mr. Gorden's, a native of Ireland. He told me that he was obliged to travel from Baltimore on foot, but now owned his farm worth $30,000, with a stone house and excellent barns. Whilst we were there, he was trading for a horse for his wife; the trader asked him sixty-eight dollars, but he told the man he had rather pay one hundred dollars for one rather than not have his wife suited. They appeared to have every comfort that could be desired. The old lady sat down and waited on the table, and we made a comfortable and social meal of it. Continued on through the town of Greencastle, four miles from Gordon's. It is a fine little town, with a bank and two meeting-houses, and most of the dwelling-houses are brick or stone. Continued on to Loudon, on the east side of the North Mountain, fourteen miles from Greencastle. I formed a poor opinion of this place. Arriving early in the afternoon, I had a good opportunity of looking around. I think society must be in a miserable state. They have three or four taverns, and not one meetinghouse. The tavern in which we put up for the night was filled with whiskey drinkers, and I observed that none took less than a gill to a drink; in fact, it seemed to be their hobby to see who could drink the most. The accommodations out of doors were the dirtiest I ever saw. Their hogs were loose around their doors, and the wagons in every conceivable condition around the house make it appear still worse. Money appears to be their great object, and the people are apt to be dishonest unless you look out sharp for them. Oct. 8th. Started at 5 o'clock; travelled seven miles to McCollestown, a snug little place, but dirty, being situated at the base of the |