CHAPTER VIII.

BANFF AND ARBROATH.-SCOTLAND.

IN

BANFF.

[N defiance of short allowances and a periodical walk of nineteen miles, I was happy in Banff. Most of our people were poor, but they were religious and intelligent. I had much intercourse with the Scottish clergy, with the magistrate, and the sheriff's substitute. I had frequent invitations to dinner parties with the first families in the town ; I very much enjoyed the richness of their conversation, their profound veneration for the Holy Scriptures, their superior learning, their dignified politeness, and every thing that can make society just what it ought to be. I had permission to perambulate the extensive and beautiful grounds of the Earl of Fife; and his lordship, though absent all the time I was there, left word with his housekeeper that I might have access to his library. I availed myself of this privilege, and, from time to time, luxuriated in looking over the books. The respect paid here to the office of the Christian ministry, by all parties, I found to be a very great encouragement to prosecute my evangelical labours. The

people were all Scotch; I do not remember to have met with any Englishmen. A thoroughly Scottish dialect, somewhat like that of Burn's poems, prevailed every where, more especially among the poor. Walking out one day to preach by invitation in a farmer's barn about four miles from the town, I lost my way. At a distance I saw some girls, of whom I inquired the road to the house of Mr. John Adams. They stood still, not answering a word. It occurred to me that they might not, in that secluded place, have ever before heard the speech of an Englishman; I therefore adopted their own dialect, and said, "Lasses, de ye ken vat I'm speering at ?" Ay," said they, " brawly: yer speering at us whether we ken vat yer speering." English"You are asking us whether we know what you are asking."

'Varry weel then, lasses: do ye ken var Joon Adams stoops." English-"Do you know where Mr. John Adams lives ?"

"Eh brawly: come awa, and we 'll guide ye to the wee placey." English-"Yes, we know very well: come with us, and we will show you his little farm and house."

Slight variations in dialect are observable in different localities, as in England; but my ear soon got attuned to their peculiarities, and I had no difficulty. I love the Scotch, and shall never regret being in Banff.

ARBROATH.

Here I stayed only one year, having made myself

E

somewhat objectionable by taking part with the Established Church of Scotland, in their public defence, (on the platform and through the press,) against the attacks of Dr. R and his friends, as advocates of an opposite system.

I was wonderfully petted by the National clergy, and officially invited to dine with the " Presbytery." It is, perhaps, a pity that I ever bothered my head with their controversies; but somehow I was forced into the war, and could not get out of it without a battle. Some good, however, resulted from it: I enjoyed intercourse and intimacy with learned clergymen, who, since the struggle, have realized great university honours. The abilities of these men were very little known till they came out in this public controversy; one of them was minister of a village so small and a church so diminutive, that a man might walk through the place without noticing either.

With the exception of the annoyance I endured as an advocate for the Church of Scotland, I was comfortable in Arbroath. In Scotland I had no local preachers and no circuit plan. I was, in connexion with my colleague, confined principally to two chapels; we preached in two or three fishing villages, but had nothing that could, in the proper sense of the word, be called a circuit.

CHAPTER IX.

WHITEHAVEN.-CUMBERLAND.

I WAS here during the hot controversy about Dr. Warren and the Wesleyan Theological Institution. We had great disturbance. I had so many debates with "leaders and stewards," that I became thoroughly sick of debating. The walks here were excessively long and toilsome, and being a mountainous district, made the pedestrianism, in winter, a real hardship. I lived at Cockermouth, and had much affectionate intercourse with some of the parish clergy. I had a little correspondence with the Bishop of Chester, (now the Archbishop of Canterbury,) on the subject of ordination, for I was so teased and tormented with disputations about the Conference and "the Church," as well as fagged and jaded with the work of the circuit, that I sighed for a little snug curacy. I never asked for one; but I fancied a thing of this sort would give me ease and tranquillity. I will not detain the reader, by a detail of all the disagreeables in this place. I had many cordial and hospitable friends, good congregations, and a few other good things;

but was glad when my time was up, and I said farewell.

Cumberland is exceedingly rich in magnificent scenery. I took a fancy now and then to climb a few of its mountains. Skiddaw is the most celebrated, though some prefer Helvellyn. One day in August, I dined at the house of Mr. Copeland, of Keswick, the then proprietor of the celebrated lead pencil manufactory. At two o'clock I reached the base of Skiddaw. Disdaining to avail myself of the services of the guide, whose charge was five shillings, I resolved not to take the circuitous route and wind about to avoid climbing, as I saw nothing brave or romantic in that course. I therefore resolved to go straight up the abrupt ascent from the base, just where I stood. Most literally did I crawl on my hands and knees for about the first mile, and, from the excessive labour, was about to abandon the thought of going any farther; but I took heart, especially as here and there in my upward progress I found it walkable, though tremendously steep. I fagged and toiled, perspired and panted, till after three hours excessive exertion, I reached the summit. The villagers afterwards told me I had been climbing four miles and a half; I was not certain about the correctness of their calculations, but I thought them pretty near the mark. The view from the top was amazing and glorious. My descent was troublesome, and not without danger; I was within a little, now and then, of precipitating myself to the bottom of a frightful chasm. I could not keep on my feet. I