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FASHIONS

FOR

APRIL, 1810.

EXPLANATION of the PRINTS OF FASHION,

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PARISIAN FASHIONS.

No. 3.-LAST PARISIAN FULL DRESS. It affords us no small degree of satisfaction, that we are enabled to present our fair readers with a correct representation of the latest and most approved style of dress worn in Paris; and we cannot help observing, it is seldom that that style is so divested of whimsicality and indelicacy as in the figure now before us, consequently so well adapted to the chaste taste, good sense, and propriety, at all times so characteristic of our country-women.

A round dress of India mull muslin flounced at the bottom, with a deep vandyke lace, or frill of embroidered muslin, and finished with a rich gold cord; the bosom is shaded with white crape, in the handkerchief form, plaited in to the bottom of the waist, which is of white apple blossom, apple green, or pale blue satin, and confined by a dead gold band clasped with rubies or garnets; the sleeves are worn short and much off the shoulders; the back very high and of a moderate width. A bouquet of white roses and nettle blossom A Zealand wrap of pink satin, bordered with a rich wide trimming of swansdown, Chincelli, or Nootka Sound fur. A Kamskatska mantlet No. III. Vol. I.-N. &.

of correspondent fur. A gold band, studded with rabies, garnets, or other jewels, ornaments the hair, which is dressed in bands and curls very flat to the head. Gloves and shoes of white kid, with gold rosets.

Furred great coats are worn at the same time as very thin gowns, and winter toques appear in competition with spring hats, ornamented with roses, flowers of the season, double violets, jacinths, or lilacs. Some hata of lilac-coloured silk are trimmed with lilacs. White and rose are still the prevailing colours, and the milliners sometimes make use of sky blue and green. The stuffs for hats are gros de Naples satin, and Paduasoie. The masked balls have presented such an obstacle to the progress of fashion, that for six weeks there has been no change. No artist has credit enough to lay down a rule. No female is willing to be a subject; all wish to reign; so that the kingdom of fashion has become a republic, where all the parties dispute, are alternately victorious, aud display the colours which they choose to adopt. Sometimes the green faction, sometimes the red, and some. times the yellow, rules for a day. The young and the handsome appear willing to follow the standard of any leader.

A DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL DRESSES WORN
BY LADIES OF RANK AND FASHION.

1. A peach-colour train satin dress, with long sleeves trimmed at the wrist, with two rows of Mechlin lace falling over the hand; the bosom of the gown is het in with white crape in folds crossed in the centre like a handkerchief, with a diamond broach; it is made sufficiently high on the neck to wear without any other covering. The bottom of the dress is ornamented with two rows of lace, full, in the style of a flounce placed one above the other; a band of lace confines the waist; a light lace veil thrown over the head, with a half wreath of almond blossom completes this truly elegant dress.

2. A black lace dress worn over a white satin or lemon-coloured slip. This dress is made by twisting a broad cloak lace round the figure, lightly tacked together without cutting, in the style of the lace sleeves; by which means a

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most elegant and valuable dress is formed on a very economical plan, as the lace will turn afterwards to any other purpose. A crimson foil wreath worn on the head, white sleeves and gloves, with diamond and pearl orna

ments.

3. A white lace dress wreathed round the figure, in the same manuer as the above, over a pale pink, or plum-coloured satin slip, with pink topaz, or amethysts, is beyond all comparison the most facinating dress that has for the last month fallen under our observation.

4. A grass green mantle, formed of a half square of cloth, hanging in a point behind' ore corner falling over the arm, the other cut off square on the bosom, of which a small collar is made, bound round with a very broad velvet, on which is laid a grass green gymp trimming, which gives the effect of a double row of velvet; it is tied at the throat with the gymp trimming.

5. A blue satin wrap spenser, trimmed at the wrist, round the collar, and across the bosom with swansdown; a quilted satin bonnet to correspond.

6. A figured blue sarsnet pelisse, shot and|| lined with pink; the back and shirt in one, plaits laid under the back on each side the waist, which give to the gore an easy fulness, and prevents the too great exposure of the shape, now no longer considered as fashionable. A small bonnet with fancy flower to correspond, and short black lace veil.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

AND REFLECTIONS ON
FASHION AND DRESS.

But little change has taken place in the
style of dress since our last communications.
The season is too far advanced for variety, and
it is as yet too early for the introduction of||
novelty. Much taste and fancy have, how-
ever, been displayed in the assortment of
colours. We noticed on a lady of high rank,
a dead leaf coloured sarsnet mantle, made
short, with a large hood thrown open, tied
with ribband; the cloak was lined with pink
Persian, and ornamented at the edges with a
satin vandyke ribband. The bonnet to corre-
spond. Ou another, a mantle of drab-coloured
velvet, lined with pink, and a plain satin rib-
band round the edge. And on a third, a
mantle of green sarsnet, lined with orange.
On her head she wore a turban bonnet, com-
posed of folds of orange and green sarsuet.
Pelisses begin to be worn short, in satin, trim-
med with black lace. They are no longer

made to eling so close to the shape behind, but are rendered far more easy, elegant, and graceful, by laying two plaits under the back on each side; they are confined by bands of the same, or of gold, or black velvet. Spensers are likewise of very fashionable adoption, in satin or rich figured sarsuet; during this cold weather they have been worn trimmed with swausdown.

White chip hats are just introduced in the circles of fashion, and we have considerable reason to suppose, that as the spring advances they will entirely take place of the straw bonnets. We cannot say, too much in praise of them, though it is scarcely necessary to say any thing, as their delicate and elegant simplicity will doubtless sufficiently recommend them.

No change, whatever during the last month, has taken place in the formation of morning dresses, they are still made high in the neck with long sleeves, and collar, or no collar, according to the fancy of the wearer. Jacconot muslin seems to have the preference in this rank of dress; it is variously ornamented with lace or worked muslin. Lace or muslin lap. pet caps, with fancy velvet flowers, are in great estimation.

For dinner or afternoon dresses, stuffs, sarsnets, velvets, and cloths, continue to be worn, made just above the rise of the bosom, and laced up the back which is of correspondent height with the front. Long sleeves, and quarter trains are universal. Bands for the waist, with gem clasps. In full or evening dress, the gowns are made with the utmost simplicity, in the frock form. White satin seems to have a decided preference, but figured sarsuets, embroidered crapes, gossamer nets, Imperial gauze, Spanish bombazeens with black and white lace over white satiu, are all seen on ladies of the first distinction. The lace, or worked muslin handkerchief, is still a much approved covering for the neck, thrown negli. gently over the dress. Gold nets or bands, foil flowers or wreaths, with lace veils and handkerchiefs, are the present style of ornament for the head. Velvet Blowers are in the greatest estimation, for though not so appropriate to the season, they accord best with the present' state of the atmosphere.

It would be an endless task to endeavour to describe the formation of the various bonnets worn at this season, as they are the effect of individual taste rather than belonging to any prevailing fashion. Cottage bonnets, though confessedly simple and becoming, are now of too general adoption to be any longer worn by women of fashion. The Guadaloupe and

Paris hats, with the Retreat or Malmaison bonnet, have succeeded to them, worn over a French lace cap, ornamented with a small bunch of apple or almond blossom. Bouquets are much worn in the bosom, and strange to say, the nettle blossom is a favourite flower, mixed with the pink or yellow rose,

No new invention has appeared in shoes, the season of Lent, indeed, is seldom produc|| tive of novelties of any kind. In full-dress, white satin, figured silk, or kid slippers, trimmed with silver, can never be surpassed; some of our more dashing belles still adhere to to Grecian sandal, but in order to give this effect, the petticoat must be shorter, consequently the ancle more exposed than seems consistent with strict modesty. Half boots of

pelisse or mantle, are very general; it is needless to observe that the fur is laid aside: in carriages we observe that pale green, jonquille, and light blue prevail.

The difficulty of procuring French gloves, we suppose, has been the means of confining our belles to the white kid glove in full-dress, and the pale Limerick for walking.

No material change has taken place in the mode of wearing the hair; the hind part is brought forward, the ends are curled, and form a full tuft on the left side, after the Persianuaukeen calashed to correspond with the manner. Gold bands, studded with coloured gems, are the newest ornament. Small lace handkerchiefs, placed very far back on the bead, with bunches of blossom Aowers continue to be much worn, but they are considered too simple a style of dress for the Opera or crowded assembly: bands, tiaras of Indian feathers, Turkish_handker- || chiefs embroidered in silver or gold, interspersed with various coloured gems, forming spriggs and flowers, with foil wreaths and sprays, are here the most appropriate. A band of pearls in the centre of the forehead, with a clasp of diamonds or precious stones, and a light silver handkerchief thrown lightly over the head, forms a most fascinating head dress, we know of nothing so becoming to a pretty

woman,

The prevailing colours for the season are jonquille, grass, and apple green, peach bloom, pale blue, rose, lavender, dead leaf, drab, orange, and violet. The most fashionable mixtures, dead leaf and lilac, blue shot with pink, orange and green, green and brown, pink and drab, purple and greeu.

The fashion for jewellery remains unchanged. Necklaces in wrought gold and Ceylon gems, pearl chains, and coloured crosses of amethysts, emeralds, amber, pink topaz, diamonds, and pearls, with girdles, brooches, and bracelets, bands for the hair, and coloured clasps, are variously selected by the graceful fair.

Embroidery in silk, chenille, worsted, gold, and silver, will continue to be much won dur ing the spring. Plain trimmings of gold and silver begin to be laid aside. Caps in velvet or satiu are much ornamented with gold and silver cords and tassels.

MONTHLY MISCELLANY.

INCLUDING

VARIETIES, CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS.

LYCEUM.-At this Theatre has been produced a new Operatic Piece, called the Maniac, or Swiss Banditti. It is the composition of Mr. Arnold, the Manager of the Theatre. It is not that sort of thing which has any claim to sober examination. The audience received it in a manner which we trust bas satisfied the author.

A new Farce, called "Hit or Miss," has been produced at the Lyceum Theatre, and acted with great applause.

COVENT GARDEN-King Henry the Fourth has been revived at this Theatre. Kemble, in Hotspur, was somewhat feeble, owing to his late indisposition Cooke's Falstaff had its usual merit and defects. The Oratorios, on Wednesdays and Fridays, are full to an overHow.

came on

THIRD THEATRE.-The question respecting the establishment of a third Theatre, to be argued lately, before the Lords of the Council. The case of the Petitioners, the Lord Mayor, &c. for a Charter of Incorporation, in order to erect a third Theatre, was ably opened by Mr. Taddy, who built much of his argument on passages in the Petitious from the Proprietors of CoventGarden Theatre, Mrs. Richardson, and others, against the measure.—Mr. Ariam then requested that other Petitions, which had been since presented to the King in Council, might be read, which was done accordingly. One of them was a Petition from the Right Honourable R. B Sheridau, which entered into a defence of the mo opoly, or the original right of the royal grantor, and shewed, that there was no instance since the reign of

Charles the Second of such patent rights be- || described, not a third of our numerous tribes ing invaded and taken away, without the compensation being first made to those who had em barked their property on the security and faith of the presumed monopoly. A Petition was also read from Caroline Henrietta She-present improved state of the science. To ridan, wife of Mr. T. Sheridan, now in Sicily for the recovery of his health, and duly authorised to act for him in her husband's absence. Mr. Curwood followed as Counsel in support of the application for a third Theatre. Mr. Adam was heard in behalf of the established Theatres; after which the Court adjourned to a future day to decide.

WORKS IN THE PRESS.

Mr. Jesse Foot is preparing for publication the lives of the late Andrew Robinson Bowes, Esq. and his wife, the Countess of Strath

more.

Mr. Charles A. Elton has in the press, in a foolscap octavo volume, Tales of Romance, with other Poems.

Mr. F. W. L. Stockdale is about to publish a series of etchings, in imitation of the original sketches from picturesque subjects in the county of Kent, with explanatory descriptions.

Mr. Samuel Prout has nearly ready for publication the first number of the Relics of Antiquity, or Remains of Ancient Structure, with other vestiges of early times in Great Britain, etched from drawings by himself, and accompanied with descriptive sketches.

Mr. Stephen Pasquier has issued proposals for publishing, in a quarto volume, with copper-plates engraved by means of the author's newly-invented machines and tools, a new system, called Neography, in which he has attempted to simplify and reduce to one common standard, all the various modes of writing and printing used among the severa! nations of the globe, with a view to assist commerce, facilitate correspondence, and open an easier intercourse to the diffusion of knowledge, the fine arts, and civilization.

A work of some importance, under the title of County Annual Archives, will be published about Easter. Hitherto the annals of each county have been entirely lost to the public, and any person desirous of referring to any particular event or proceeding in the county in which he resides, has no means of gaining such information, however interesting to himself or the public. As the County Archives is intended to supply this desideratum, the contents of each annual volume will be arranged under the counties to which they respectively belong, and the subjects classed under the five general departments of public business, civil and criminal jurisprudence, political economy, chronicle, and biography.

It has long been matter of surprise to foreign naturalists, that although in this country Botany has been cultivated with a zeal and success which leave nothing to desire, scarcely any attention has been hitherto paid to the sister-science, entomology; so that while the vegetable productions of the British isles are for the most part well known and accurately

of insects have been noticed or enumerated. This neglect is doubtless principally to be attributed to the want of a popular aud com prehensive elementary work, adapted to the supply this desideratum, and facilitate the study of a department of natural history, singularly amusing and instructive, abounding in objects striking in their shape and structure, splendid in decoration, and in the highest degree interesting in babits, manners and eco|| nomy, the Rev. W. Kirby, and Mr. W. Spence, are engaged in preparing an introduction to Entomology, which is in considerable forwardness. The plan of the work is popular; but without overlooking science, to the technical and anatomical departments of which much new matter will be contributed, its object, after obviating objections, and removing prejudices, is to include every thing useful or interesting to the entomological student, except descriptions of genera aud species, which are foreign to the nature of such a work.

Nations are not only distinguished by their moral character, but by their physiognomy. Nothing is easier than to perceive the difference that exists between them, and nothing is more difficult than to point it out scientifically. A Frenchman is not easily depicted. Less bold than the features of an Englishman, his are more prominent, and yet softer than those of a German. He is chiefly character. ised by his teeth, and his way of laughing. An Italian is known by the elevation of his nose, the smallness of his eye, and the prominence of his chin. An Englishman by his forehead and eye brows, as well as the oval shape of his face, and the undulating curve of his lips. A Dutchman by the roundness of his head, and the softness of his hair. A German by the wrinkles that surround his eyes, and the deep furrows on his cheeks. And a Russian by his turned up nose, and his black or white hair.

A Literary and Philosophical Society is forming under the title of "The Literary and Philosophical Society of Hackney," including that village and its vicinity. It is to consist of three classes, none of which is limited. 1. Ordinary Members, who contribute one guinea per annum to the funds, enjoy the use of the books, &c. 2. Honorary, consisting of persons whose association may reflect honour on the society, and whose opinion of the labours of its members may be such as to impress them with sentiments of regard for such a mark of respect. 3. Those whose attachment to literature may entitle them to become members, but whose finances would prevent them from contributing to the subscriptions for the support of the society. To these last the library will be open gratis. Ladies are admitted into this society without the formality of a ballot, on the recommendation of three subscribers, and are allowed to vote by proxy.

A new institution, called Gower's Walk Free School, from its situation in Gower's Walk, Church-lane, Whitechapel, has lately been

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liable to tarnish, or to be scratched, than gold, and though very ductile, is capable of being rendered extremely strong and elastic.

M. Descroizilles, of Paris, has published some observations on the preservation of ve

serve rose-leaves, for example, either for medical purposes or for perfumes, he gives the following directions:-Take four pounds, troy, of rose-leaves, and pound them two or three minutes with one-third of their weight of common salt. The flowers, bruised with the salt, will soon give out their juice, and produce a paste of little bulk, which must be put iuto an earthen vessel or small cask, and proceed in the same manner till you have filled it. Stop the vessel close, and keep it in a cool place till wanted. This fragrant paste may be distilled at leisure in a common still, diluting it with about double its weight of pure water.

M. Seezen, a German traveller, in his progress through Syria, bas discovered, in the neighbourhood of the Red Sea, the ruins of the ancient city of Dscherrasch, probably the Gerasa of antiquity. He found remains of several public edifices, two amphitheatres, several palaces, a temple, &c.

built, and endowed almost at the sole cost of one individual, William Davis, Esq. of Laytonstone and Goodman's-fields. This gentleman, convinced of the excellence of the mode of teaching introduced by the Rev. Dr. Bell, and desirous of providing instruction for thegetables for distillation by salting. To premultitudes of poor children in and about the streets in the neighbourhood of his sugar || manufactory, several of whom he had before placed at his own expence under the care of a school-mistress not far from his house, resolved, in the true spirit of benevolence and patriotism, to erect a school on an ample scale in which that system might be pursued without controul. He accordingly purchased a plot of ground, and built a substantial house, of which the centre and one wing are completed, and which, when finished, will be capable of accommodating 300 children. Over the door we simply read, that this school was founded" for training up children in the principles of the Christian religion, and in habits of useful industry." It was opened without parade; the founder and his lady, who takes an active part in the superintendance of the establishment, a single friend, and the curate of the parish, were the only persons present, exclusive of the schoolmaster and inistress, the children first received into the school, and their parents. The present number of pupils is 110 boys and 50 girls. The boys are taught all that ought to be taught in charity schools, reading, writing, and arithmetic. The girls are instructed besides in sewing, knitting, marking, &c. A printing. press ou Lord Stanhope's construction, affords employment to the boys, while the girls are busied in knitting and all sorts of useful On ascending into the north room, we obneedle-work But the privilege of working serve the figure of an Ekler Vestal, attending the press (which, by a curious combination of the sacred fire, from the pencil of J. F. Rilevers, gives the hand of a boy the power of gaud, R. A. and a Herd attacked by Lions; fifteen horses), and of taking up the needle, one of the compartments of the shield of must be obtained as an indulgence, by previ- || Achilles, as described by Homer, in the eighously performing their tasks in school in a teenth book of his Iliad; this composition is perfect manner. The children receive a share by R. Westall, R.A.-In the middle room, of what they earn, and have some rewards the prominent performances are, "Weariness, besides. Exclusive of the dividend on £.2000 or the Old Gleaner," by W. R. Bigg, Associate 3 per cents. this school maintains itself. The of the Royal Academy.-The Gipsy, by S. doors are always open to the visits of any re- Woodforde, R. A.-The commission of Dugo spectable persons; but the examination of the|| Leiva, and Camillo de la Torre, to secure the children's proficiency takes place on Thurs-young Princes of Mantua and Montserrat; days, at two o'clock, at which time the na ture of the establishment may be studied with the least possible interruption to the business of the place.

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M. Von Humboldt has recently presented to the King of Prussia's cabinet of minerals, the only lump of native platina that is known. He found it in 1800, in the soap manufactories of the town of Taddo, in the province of Cleves, in South America. It is of the size of a pigeon's egg, and weighs 10,886 grains.

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The British Institution for promoting the Fine Arts, in Pall-Mall, is now open for public inspection.

from Nanc's History of the Republic of Venice, by S. Drummond, A. R A.-A Mary looking into the Sepulchre, by_H. Howard, R. A.; and a View near Britton Ferry, in GlaMr. Mesure, of Craven-buildings, Drury-morganshire; Gale with Shipping and FiJane, having been, in consequence of the great || gures, by Nichols Pocock. In the south scarcity and exorbitant price of gold, induced room is a Scene from Nature, by B. Barker.— to turn his attention to the discovery of a sub- Returning from Market, by J. L. Agasse.-A stitute for that metal, has at length announ- Ferry-boat, by J. J. Chalou —A design for a ced the complete success of his exertions- Picture, painted for Sir John Leicester, Bart. The metal, which is the result of them, has by J. Ward, A. R. A.-A Study of a Horse, by. the exact appearance of gold, and is peculiarly P. A. Reinagle; and Dead Game, by S. Elmer, adapted to the manufacture of all the various A.R.A. There are some models possessing a trinkets for which gold is at present employed. considerable degree of truth and spirit; parThe inventor supplies it unwrought at the ticularly one, representing the late regretted rate of three shillings per ounce. Sir John Moore on horseback, as in the act of proaches nearer to the qualities of gold, ex- giving command; and a model for a monucept in weight, than any other metal yet dis- ment to the memory of Captain Hardinge, covered; takes a most beautiful polish, is less being both executed agreeably to the order of

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