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from which it is eight miles inland, and twelve miles S. S. E. of its port, La Guayra. This city is finely situated, and in the enjoyment of a tempe rate and healthy, though variable climate; but it is much exposed to the attacks of earthquakes, by which it has frequently suffered. It is surrounded by the Guayra, and several other rivulets, which supply many public and private fountains, and wash the streets. It is a well and regularly built city the streets are sufficiently wide, paved, and cross each other at right angles; there are, also, a number of squares, the principal of which is the Plaza Mayor. This is ornamented with several fine buildings; the cathedral, on the east side, the university on the south, and the prison on the west; but it is disfigured by ranges of low shops, collected in its centre, where the fruit, vegetable and fish markets, are held. Most of the public buildings are of a religious character; the cathedral is spacious, but heavily built, and it is probably to this circumstance that its preservation was owing during the great earthquake of 1812. Previous to that year there were eight other churches, the handsomest of which, Alta Gracia, was built by people of color; but this and the other churches, and ninetenths of the houses, and between 9,000 and 10,000 inhabitants were destroyed, by the terrible catastrophe that then happened. There are three convents, two nunneries, and three hospitals, besides a theatre capable of containing 1,800 persons, the pit of which is not covered in. The houses of Caracas are at present inferior to those which existed previous to the great earthquake; they are now chiefly built of sun-dried clay or brick, and the roofs tiled, and the walls whitewashed. Caracas was founded in 1567, by Diego Loseda, and, under the Spanish government, was the seat of the Captaincy-General of Venezuela. In 1812, the population was 40,000, but it is now only about 24,000.

LA GUAYRA, which is the port of Caracas, is the chief trading town of the republic; but its merchants are, for the most part, the agents of others in the capital, where all negotiations are conducted. The population is about 15,000. The harbor is but indifferent, and the climate unhealthy.

CUMANA is situated on an arid, sandy plain, on the east bank of the Manzanares, and near the mouth of the Gulf of Cariaco, about one mile from the sea-shore. Latitude, 10° 23′ north, and longitude, 64° 16′ west. It is commanded by Fort San Antonio, built on an elevation to the east of the city, and the river encompasses the town, dividing it from its principal suburbs. It has two parish churches, two convents, and a theatre. The buildings are generally low, but by no means insignificant, either in extent or appearance. The roadstead is extensive, and anchorage excellent for large ships. The climate is intensely hot; the temperature being usually, in the summer months, from 90° to 95° Fahr. during the day, and seldom so low as even 800 at night. The inhabitants are distinguished for their assiduity in business, and their polished manners. This is the oldest European city on the continent, having been built by Diego Castellon, in 1523. It was totally destroyed by an earthquake in 1766.

The other principal cities of Venezuela are:-VALENCIA, a considerable town, with 15,000 inhabitants; PUERTO-CABELLO, an important seaport, in longitude 68 west, with a good harbor, and considerable trade, but in an unhealthy situation, and having only a population of 3,000; VARINAS, south of the Lake of Maracaybo, once a flourishing city, but at the present day in a state of decay; ANGOSTURA or NEW GUAYANA, a small Episcopal city, on the Orinoco, with 3,000 inhabitants. It is important as a shipping sta tion, for vessels and steamboats navigating that river, and if the American

Steam Navigation Company succeed in establishing their boats on the Orinoco, will eventually become a centre of the river-trade. MARACAYBO, a fine town, on the west side of the strait which connects the lake with the bay of the same name; it possesses a college, a pilot school, several building-slips, and is defended by three forts; population, 20,000. MERIDA, a small city, with 5,000 inhabitants, and containing a university of the second rank, and a college. Besides these, there are other important towns, and many minor ports and harbors along the coast.

The government of Venezuela is similar, in almost every aspect, to that of New Grenada; but partakes less of the energy, enterprise and liberality of that republic. It formerly consisted of the Captaincy-General of Caracas, to which has been added, however, the extensive tracts known formerly as Spanish Guayana, and now the department of Orinoco, which lies on the south of the river of the same name. The executive power is delegated to a President, whose term of office is four years; there is also a Vice-President. It is impossible, however, to form any adequate idea of the powers of the President of Venezuela, from those possessed by the President of the United States; in the one they are despotic, in the other limited; in the one all constitutional forms are mere words, in the other they are as guides and landmarks whereby the power is confined to its proper limits. The President of Venezuela is, in fact, a monarch, and all other powers are only subservient to his will. The legislative power is nominally confided to the Senate and House of Deputies, as in the United States; but such is the influence of the executive that the legislature is merely the shadow of a power. The whole government is a despotism, and the minions of the existing power distribute their oppressions among the people with an unsparing hand.

The political government of the departments is by law vested in the hands of intendantes, appointed by the president, with the sanction of Congress, with authority over the administration of justice, police, finance and defence; but without the command of an armed military force. The provinces are under the administration of governors, with powers only inferior and similar to intendantes; the cantons and parishes have each their own officers. The civil and criminal code are an ill-digested collection of the laws of Castile and the Indies, royal ordinances, Spanish decrees, and colonial regulations; and their administration is very unfavorably spoken of. Trial by jury and liberty of the press, however, are everywhere allowed.

The religion of the country is the Roman Catholic; the ceremonies and festivals of which are celebrated with great splendor. The Inquisition was abolished in 1821, but the clergy still possess great power; and though every other creed is allowed toleration, their public rites and worship are prohibited. The clergy are paid by the state; convents are numerous, but are diminishing, and Catholicism is said to suffer to some extent by dissent. Many of the Indian tribes have embraced the Christian religion.

The armed force of Venezuela consists chiefly of Indians and the colored races. There is also a militia, which consists of the whole male population, from 16 to 40 years of age. The navy may be said to be no navy at all.

The state has made some provisions for elementary education; but, as yet, no progress has been made in this essential element in civilization. The wretched system bequeathed to all South America by the Spaniards,

still exists in Venezuela; and all the important branches of useful knowledge professed at the universities, are so taught as to be really worse than useless, and, instead of expanding and enlightening the mind, serve rather to imbue it with the grossest prejudices. Primary schools are established in every parish; and Lancasterian schools exist in the principal cities. The literary talent of the country is chiefly confined to the newspapers; and on these the most lenient judgment must pronounce a most unqualified condemnation.

The fine arts are equally destitute of excellence; architecture has made but little progress, and all architectural beauty, which is found in Caracas, and the other principal cities, belongs to another race, and the old regimé. The republic cannot even boast of an ordinary portrait-painter. But, it is said, that the females of Caracas are excellent musicians, and can sing harmoniously and well. The whole scope, however, of the higher phases of the fine arts are decidedly in a backward state. The besetting sin of the Venezuelians is indolence, which retards all their social progress; they are courteous, hospitable, and when intimately known, friendly and cordial; temperate in their habits and grave in their deportment, but suspicious, reserved, slow, and imbued with an excess of national pride. The manners, dress, habits and amusements of those of European descent, much resemble those of their Spanish ancestors.

The coast of Venezuela was originally discovered by Columbus, in 1498, during his third voyage. Several voyages were afterwards made by adventurers, and some unavailing attempts having been made to colonize, the Spanish government came to the determination of settling the country under its own direction. These expeditions being managed by priests, were generally ill-conducted, and it was found necessary to subdue the natives by force. When this was partially effected, and the Spanish settlers were placed in some security, the proprietorship was sold to the Weltzers, a German Mercantile Company. Under their management, the Spaniards and natives suffered most grievous tyranny. They were dispossessed in 1750, and a supreme chief, with the title of Captain-General, was appointed. From this period until 1806, Caracas remained in the peaceful possession of Spain, and progressed in wealth and internal prosperity. In this year, a gallant, but unfortunate attempt, was made to secure the independence of the country. Gen. Miranda, a native of Caracas, formed, for this purpose, an expedition, partly from St. Domingo and partly from New-York. A landing was effected on the coast, but the forces proved wholly inadequate for the design; and many were taken prisoners, and were executed. The defeat was decisive, and for the time effectually suppressed the spirit of revolt. The entrance of the French into Spain, however, and the consequent derangement of Spanish affairs, gave the Venezuelans an opportunity to relax their bonds, and establish a free government. For this purpose a Junta Suprema, or Congress, was convened at Caracas, in which deputies from all the provinces, except Maracaybo, were present.

The Junta at first published their acts in the name of Ferdinand VII., but the captain-general and the members of the audiencia were deposed and imprisoned, and the new government received the title of the Confederation of Venezuela. The most violent and impolitic measures were now adopted by the Regency and Cortes of Spain; but the Congress finding the voice of the people decidedly in favor of independence, formally proclaimed the country a free and independent Republic, on the 5th of July

1811. A liberal constitution was formed, and affairs wore an aspect favorable to the cause of liberty until the fatal earthquake of 1812, which, operating on the superstitions of the people, led to a great change in public opinion.

Monteverde, a royalist general, taking advantage of the existing state of things, marched against Caracas, and, after defeating General Miranda, compelled the whole province to submit; in 1813, however, Venezuela was again emancipated by Bolivar, who was sent with an army from New Grenada; but, in 1814, he, in his turn, was defeated by Boves, and compelled to evacuate. In 1816, he again returned with a respectable body of troops, and was again defeated; but undismayed by reverses, he again landed in December, convened a general congress, and defeated the royalists in March, 1817, with great loss. Bolivar was now invested with dictatorial powers, the state of the country requiring unity and energy, and the contest was carried on with much spirit, and with various results. On the 17th Dec., 1819, a union of the republic with New Grenada was formed; this confederation received the title of the Republic of Colombia, and a suitable constitution was formed for the joint government. In the meantime, Bolivar was active in the field. On the 24th June, 1821, the battle of Carabobo was fought, in which the royal army was totally defeated, with the loss of their artillery, baggage, and upwards of 6,000 men; and soon after the Spaniards evacuated the country.

In the year 1829, Venezuela was separated from the Republic of Colombia, and again became an independent republic, under the presidency of Gen. Paez. In 1830, after the resignation of Bolivar, it again joined the Colombian Republic, but this union was of short duration. In November a new separation took place, and Colombia was finally divided into the three republics, Venezuela, New Grenada, and Equador.

Since this period the country has enjoyed external peace; but, within her own borders, the cauldron of political strife has been in constant ferment; and civil wars have reduced the energies of the republic, and operated heavily on its progress and prosperity.

On the 30th March, 1847, a treaty was concluded at Madrid, by which Spain renounced all sovereignty over Venezuela, and acknowledged her to be a free and independent nation.

The following persons have been successively presidents of the Republic since its separation in 1830:-Gen. José Antonio Paez; Dr. Vargas; Gen. Soublette; and José Tadeo Monagas, the present president, whose term of service will end in 1850, if not deposed before that period.

The civil war now waging,* was commenced immediately after the massacre of several members of congress, on the 24th January, 1848, which act is said to have been perpetrated at the instigation of the president. Several battles have been fought between the popular general, Paez, and the myrmidons of Monagas, but, as yet, without result. From all appearances, the war seems to be one of castes, and will probably be of long continuance; it has been such pitiable outbreaks as this, that have retarded the developement of this prolific country, and such will ultimately prove its ruin if not abated.

It was in the regions of the vast plains watered by the Orinoco, that report located the fabulous "El Dorado," the golden kingdom of Manoa, which was the grand ultimatum of the Spaniards' hopes, and occasioned the fitting out of a great many expeditions in the 16th century. The Indians of Peru were continually pointing their reckless invaders to the This war terminated with the surrender of Paez in August, 1849.

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north, and inciting their rapacious desires with stories of a more golden region, even than their own, in that direction. Whether it was that they endeavored by stratagem to rid themselves of their merciless conquerors, or that they referred to the opulent city of the Aztec Emperor, on the northern continent, has not yet been satisfactorily understood. So confident, however, were the Spaniards of the existence of such a country, that so late as the year 1780, a large expedition perished in the search, of course, fruitless, of this imaginary region.

THE REPUBLIC OF BOLIVIA.

THE tract of country, occupied by the Bolivian Republic, was formerly called Upper Peru, and under Spanish dominion, formed successively portions of the viceroyalty of Lima and of Buenos Ayres. It is geographically situated between the parallels of 9° 30′ and 25° 40′ south latitude, and longitudes 58 and 71° west from Greenwich, having Peru on the north and north-west; Brazil and Paraguay on the east; the Argentine Republic and Chili on the south, and on the west the Pacific Ocean. Its extreme length from north to south is 1,100 miles, and its breadth from the Pacific to its eastern boundary is about 750 miles: the area has been estimated at 318,000 square miles.

Of all the states of South America, this, with Paraguay, is the least known to the world; whether we look for information respecting its topographical features, its social or political condition, its productions or wants, the same obscurity exists and interrupts inquiry.

The general features of the western portion of the country, however, are much similar to those of the eastern portions of Peru. It is traversed by mountains interspersed with beautiful elevated plateaux and vallies; while in the eastern provinces it stretches into a succession of immense pampas and well watered plains.

The Andes, which enter Bolivia at its southern extremity, give off near latitude 24° a lateral eastern range of no great elevation, which forms the boundary for a considerable distance between Bolivia and La Plata. About latitude 292, the Andes divide into two great chains, which run parallel to each other to between 14 and 15 south, where they again unite. The farthest west of these chains is called the Cordillera of the coast, or of the Andes, and the furthest east the Cordillera Real: including the intermediate country, they occupy a breadth of more than 230 miles north of latitude 18° and south of that parallel of upwards of 300 miles; and cover at least 100,000 square miles of surface, which, however, is partly in Peru. Many lateral ridges, sent off by the Cordillera Real, cover the departments of Cochabamba and Chuquisaca, together with a part of those of Potosi and Santa Cruz de la Sierra: the principal of these transverse ridges branches off from the Cordillera about latitude 17° 19', and running north past the city of Cochabamba, terminates within a few leagues of the town of Santa Cruz. The summits of the western Cordillera generally appear in the form, either of a truncated cone or of a dome, and are often volcanic: those of the eastern Cordillera, as seen from the west, offer a succession of sharp ragged perks and serrated ridges, and are not volcanic, but in many parts highly metaliferous. The declivity of the Bolivian Cordillera is rapid on either side, but particularly so on the east: the principal elevations of both Cordilleras are about latitude 15° 19′ south, where that of the eastern chain is 24,459 feet,

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