gether, and the animal is thrown on the ground. The ganderios generally begin their peregrinations in parties of four, six, or more. They are so unconcerned about means of subsistence, that they only provide themselves with a knife, and a cord with some balls made fast to the end of it. These are sufficient to supply all their wants. If they are oppressed by hunger, they lay snares to catch a wild cow or young steer. They then throw the animal down, bind its legs, and cut out a piece of the flank, before it is dead, slice it, and lay it on the fire; when it is half broiled, they eat it without any further preparation. If they happen accidentally to carry any thing with them, salt is the only ingredient for cooking. Others kill an ox, merely for the sake of eating the meat from the ribs. Others, on the contrary, covet only the tongue, which they broil in the embers. The rest of the animal is left a prey to carnivorous birds and wild beasts. There are others, again, who only take the marrow-bones, which they clear from the meat, and hold them over the fire till the marrow begins to melt. The manner of dressing a cow among these people is most remarkable. All the entrails are taken out, then the tallow and fat is collected and laid into the carcase. Dry cowdung is prepared and lighted, and held over the fat ull it inflames and incorporates with the meat and bones. To this end the carcase is closed as well as possible, so that the smoke issues from the mouth and limbs. Thus it burns a whole night, or a considerable part of the day. When ready, the company sits down around the animal, and each person cuts a slice where he likes, which is eaten without salt or bread. The rest remains on the ground, except any one takes a piece for a person which he is particularly fond of. There are two roads from Montevideo to Buenos-Ayres, one by land as far as el Real de San Carlos. In dry seasons this is the nearest; but in wet weather the smallest streams are so swelled, that they cannot be passed without danger, if at all. At San Carlos there are plenty of boats to cross the Plata which is there ten leagues broad; they carry orders from government, and all kinds of provisions. The common way is by the river, as there are always boats at Montevideo: In favourable weather the passage, which is forty leagues, may be made in 24 hours. But it may happen that it is not made in 14 days, when the wind is contrary. About 30 years ago Buenos-Ayres, on account of its rank and importance, was reckoned the fourth city in the viceroyship of Peru. For at that time, Lima, Cuzco, and Santiago in Chili, held priority. Since that period circumstances have changed very much In our days Lima only can be considered as more important; and the time may come when Buenos-Ayres will hold an equal rank with Lima. Since it has been erected into a separate viceroyship, and trade and agriculture have been promoted, Buenos - Ayres has increased considerably, and enlarges every day. Formerly there were no country houses, and no good fruit-trees except peaches. At present we do not find any person of middling rank, who does not raise all kinds of fruits, vegetables, and flowers. The houses in general are not very high, yet they are light, and mostly well built. And the interior opulence does not disgrace the exterior appear ance. Men and women dress in the Spanish fashion, for all the modes are carried from the mother country. Only they dress in some places more than in others. The wo men of Buenos-Ayros are reckoned the most beautiful and pleasing in America; and though they do not rival the ladies of Lima in elegance, yet their manner of dressing is not less attractive, and is reckoned more tasteful. Until 1747, there was no post established in Buenos-Ayres or in any part of the province of Tucuman, notwithstanding the great trade carried on with the neighbouring pro vinces. Each merchant was obliged to send his letters by a messenger, at his own expence. The neighbours availed themselves of such opportunities, and endeavoured to promote their correspondence; or, what was mostly the case, every traveller was loaded with letters and commissions, by which certainly the intercourse was not particularly accelerated, for these passengers travel as far as Jujin or Mendoza in a two wheeled carriage. In 1748, posts were established. Buenos-Ayres is well supplied with every variety of provision. Meat of all kinds, especially, is so plentiful, that it is often given away to the poor. The river water is thick, but soon settles when kept in large earthen, or wooden vessels. Fish also is in great abundance. No snow falls within the jurisdiction of Buenos-Ayres, or in the province of Tucuman; the river is sometimes covered with a thin coating of ice, which is carefully collected for cooling liquors. The climate is very healthy: this is proved by the proportion of births to deaths; hence it well deserves its name. Yet in June, July, August and September, fogs rise on the water which oppress the lungs. And the strong winds that blow from the Pampas, (called therefore Pamperos), are very distressing, owing to their violence. Whoever wishes to travel from thence to Peru (about 900 leagues) has many things to think of, and much to provide against. This is true particularly in regard to the Indians who inhabit the Pampas; for they attack travellers in large bodies, and do them great injury. These Indians, as well as other wild tribes, set watches to observe the strength and number of the travellers, and to conceal their own. The spies are unarmed, and place themselves as if they were abandoned by their own party. The sluggishness of these Pampas beggars all description. Hence they increase little, and hopes are entertained that the race will be extinct in a short time. They are treacherous and cowardly; and though they handle the lance well on horseback, yet they cannot hold out in a contest, Their victories over the Spaniards are therefore rare. They only conquer when they can surprise their enemies by ambuscade, or when they fight fifteen to one against Europeans.” As Montevideo has been in all probability the object of an attempt by our brave soldiers and sailors, we shall annex the account given of this town and its vicinity, by the Rev. William Gregory, one of the missionaries captured in the Duff. We have every reason to be satisfied of its correctness, and authenticity, having had a knowledge of the writer, and having seen some parts of his Journals in MS. Within Tuesday, March 12, 1799. Early in the morning we entered Rio de la Plata; to the south no land could possibly be discovered, this river is so very extensive. Two high rocks now appeared in sight. two hours we perceived the high mountain of Monte-Video. It is very lofty, and has a staff on the summit, on which a flag is hoisted when any ship appears in sight. Wednesday, May 1st. Mr. Turner, Mr. Broughton and I, went this morning to survey the high mountain of MONTE-VIDEO. We rode on very pleasantly over hills, and neglected land, having at times to cross a few brooks, which nearly made our horses swim, till we arrived at the bottom where there is a guard house with Spanish troops. After some enquiries they seemed to suppose us either Frenchmen or North Americans, and on our informing them that we wished to ascend the mount, they directed us to the best way, and pointing to a magazine about a quarter of a mile distant, told us that we must not go by that way or near it. We proceeded as ordered and found this road the most practicable. We soon, however, were compelled to dismount, and climbed to the top, where, standing by the flag-staff, we enjoyed a most extensive prospect as the day was uncommonly clear. On every side we beheld a horizon without bounds, while the sight was transported from mountain to mountain, resting at intervals on the mighty ocean, which can here be traced to a vast extent. The imagination seemed to command the whole globe, while our wandering eyes surveyed the town, the river, and shipping, which appeared little to the view from the height of our situation, but were in a moment directed to the vast chains of land and rivers, which ran into the fa thomless deep, or in the river La Plata. RIO DE LA PLATA.-This river, if it may be so called, seemed to me like the ocean, as no land could be seen, and from the best information I could obtain, is fifty or sixty leagues broad. The English bank, so called, near the entrance, is noted for having been fatal to several ships. I have before noticed two rocks which we first discovered, and within a few miles of Monte Video runs a shoal a considerable way out into the river, and some sand banks lie farther up, which render the passage rather unsafe. Besides an infinite number of small rivers, it abounds with lakes, some of which we could perceive from the mount, I suppose between thirty and forty miles distant, which ran into the country and watered its plains. About thirty leagues up the river on the north side, lie the town and harbour of Monte Video, formed by a point of land, or the high mountain opposite. The harbour is so compact by nature that it forms an excellent bay for ships of any dimension, which may here safely ride at anchor. In appearance near the town, to my view, it seemed to resemble a part of the river Medway, above his Majesty's dock-yard at Chatham, only considerably broader, and the shores being rocky, both they and the water were much clearer. At the entrance is a fort, which commands the harbour, but of inconsiderable force, opposite to which is the high mountain. It abounds with excellent fish; the cat-fish are numerous, some two feet long; a fish like a perch, smelts, and others, the names of which I did not understand. I saw no shell-fish at this place except a few mussels near a rock, exceedingly small, and not worth eating. It is said that this river annually overflows its harks. When the wind blew from the south it rose six or seven feet, but when it blew from the north or west it immediately fell. TOWN OF MONTE VIDEO.-This makes a most flattering appearance from a view of it in the harbour, for as it rises from the shore its ascent gives it a very respectable look. The landing place is composed of large stones roughly put together, on which stands a sentinel on guard, and at a small distance a guard-house with soldiers, and a customhouse with officers, who inspect whatever is brought on shore. The houses are built of large stones and bricks, only one story high, a few excepted; their roofs are flat, and the same as the floor, where the house is floored, though some rave only earth, and the best but bricks. The governor's residence, which is the extent of a large square yard, and resembles a range of livery stables in England, is of this construction: some have windows, but few any glass, and these bear a strong resemblance to a prison, others have none. Those at the corner of a street have two doors, one of which is shut on that side where the sun shines in the morning, and opened in the afternoon. Some few houses belonging to people of distinction are two and three stories high, with a balcony in front. None, how ever, that I could perceive, either in town or country have chimnies. Most kindle their fire either in the yard, which is brought into the room when the weather is wet or cold, in fire-pans, or have small fire-holes built in an out-house adjacent. The shops make but a sorry appearance, as scarcely any have a window. Those without the gate are distinguished by a small vane or flag, where every article of sustenance is sold, the landlord of which is at once innkeeper and grocer. very inconsiderable. Manufactories I was informed are prohibited, for the purpose of keeping them in a state of dependance upon Old Spain. Some few mechanics, however, are to be found. Taylors and shoemakers form the most numerous body of men, who are engaged in regular employment. Thera are one or two blacksmith's shops, in which charcoal is used, and the workmen, though exceedingly slow, can finish their work tolerably well. The circumstance that chiefly drew my attention in one of these shops was, to see the master nearly as clean as if he had been in a milliner's shop. Bullock's hides, tallow, dried tongues, leopards', tigers', lions', and other skins; the drug Paraguay, and salt-dried beef, are all articles of exportation; besides the treasures of Peru brought down the river, and shipped for Old Spain, with other commodities of the country. No ships come regularly to this port, and only three or four make an annual voyage to Europe, and during the war even this small number has decreased. Clothing of every description, and every article of household utensils are excessively dear, and though the houses are uncomfortable in many respects the rent is very high. AIR, SOIL, PRODUCE.-The air of this country is temperate and exceedingly salutary, though at mid-day the sun is very powerful: some of the Brethren experienced this in a manner which caused them excessive pain: having but one shirt each, when they got out into the country near some water, they put them off for the purpose of washing, when not aware of the sun's scorching beams, the skin was peeled off their backs during the interval. The streets run straight, and cross each other at right angles, but, with one or two exceptions, they are by far the worst for travelling that imagination can conceive; for being composed of rock-stones and sand, the large cavities make it very disagreeable both for man and beast, especially in rainy weather. As the inhabitants in general ride, they pay little attention to the improvement of their roads. Strange as it may seem, it is a fact, that to fill up a hole they have killed one of the team to assist the wheel in passing over. The town abounds with rats and flies, which are a prodigious plague to all but the inhabitants, and even to them in some deFor ten miles from the town it is hilly, gree. The rats that have been killed lay co- but from that it runs several hundred miles piously strewed at morning in the streets, and one continued level. Nothing can exceed to keep off the flies in the day they have large the fertility of the soil, or the beautiful ver bundles of ostrich feathers. Near the top of dure which overspreads the whole face of the the town is a market-place, about three hun-country. The soil, without inanure, will dred yards square, whither abundance of fruit is brought, which although so plentiful in the country is dear in the town, as the seller puts a high value on his trouble of carriage. On the west a large church is building in a superiorstyle, which can be discerned at a great distance. At the extremities of this town they are enlarging and strengthening the fortification, which is composed of excellent stone. The town, as also the mountain opposite, forming a peninsula, is bounded by the river, except on that part which leads into the country, and is inclosed by a fort-wall and gate, at which a guard of troops is placed with an officer of inspection, and every evening at eight o'clock the gates are shut. TRADE AND COMMERCE. Of these I can say but little, as to all appearance they are produce vegetables, almost, if not of every description in Europe; Indian and European corn, apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, figs, melons, water-melons, cucumbers, onions, cabbages, lettuces, Cayenne pepper, &c. &c. grow in great plenty; and some cherry and walnut trees which had been brought from Europe thrived well. The hedges are com posed of excellent quinces, some fourteen inches in circumference: and if a proper de gree of attention was paid to cultivation, it is impossible to say to what extent the produce might be carried. The valuable herbs, para guay and ananas, &e. appeared to grow spon taneously. This district differs from other parts of South America, with respect to wood for the purpose of fuel, of which there is but little, and the greatest part of it is brought from the river St. Lucia. Farther. up in the vicinity of Buenos Ayres, within three miles of the shore, there is abundance of large, good timber, well adapted both for building ships and houses. Near the town is a large quarry of stones, in which a number of the natives are employed and in different directions, about six feet from the surface, is a ridge of alabaster, but it is not used. Mushrooms grow spontaneously in the plains, but are never eaten by the inhabitants, being considered as noxious. are ANIMALS.-The animals of this country numerous, particularly oxen, horses, sheep, hogs, nsules, dogs, lions, tigers, leopards, wolves, beavers, seals, ermines, horned beetles, serpents, adders, &c.-Of the feathered kind, they have geese, ducks, pigeons, partridges, ostriches, a variety of birds of beautiful species, and all manner of wild fowl. Horses are innumerable, lively, and beautiful; they are only fit for the saddle, and are admirable for their make as well as for their swiftness, and the inhabitants are proud of their long manes and tails. They live entirely in the pastures, and are frequently used throughout the day without receiving food or water, yet even in these circumstances they refused corn. They are not only good but cheap. Even in the neighbourhood of the town, where they are comparatively dear, one at ten dollars can scarcely be excelled throughout England. They are so trained as to regard no regular road, and quite the reverse of the English horses, when about to ascend an hill, set off at a gallop. Oxen are as large in general as those in England, though, as there is not the least attention paid to them, they do not become so fat, but finer creatures I scarce ever saw. To pick out one from a herd consisting of several hundreds, not far from town, I have been asked two dollars; but a few miles farther up the country, four for the same money; and twelve mifes, two for half a crown. Beef, in consequence is cheap. I have 1 bought as capital a piece as ever I partook of, including the sirloin, which I suppose might weigh about 50lbs. for about 34d. English money. On my once informing one of the dealers in cattle that a bullock in England cost five pounds, he stood amazed, and began to pride himself on his own country. The owner of the Brethren's house was one who killed a number almost daily, and as often sent a quarter for our friends, as most kill chiefly for the hides and tallow; and I have seen some hundred carcases lying in the fields, which, after being skinned were left for the dogs, hogs, and birds of prey, which swarm in these places in vast numbers. Farther inland, bullocks are killed only for the sake of the tongues, which is the only part they eat. Mules are very good, which they use in their watering carts, and are much larger than in common. Hogs are also numerous and excellent. They live on grass, fruit, beef, &c. Whether great or small, their price is about half a crown per head. The sheep in this country have four horns, but are not so fat as the English; the meat, however, is very white and sweet. At market a sheep will cost. 3s. 6d. but in the country from 20 to 30 per dollar. Fowls are excessively dear, the same value as an ox. Wild beasts are numerous and large, lions, tygers, leopards, &c. the natives hunt them and bring their skins to town for sale, hundreds of which I have seen. Some of the natives, who catch them when young, keep them at the door of their huts like dogs. Among some skins brought to town by the hunters I purchased one, which measures eight feet in length exclusive of the tail. Ostriches are also large and in great numbers.They will cover an hill, but little notice is taken of them; the only use which I ever saw made of their feathers was, as broom to sweep away the flies. Partridges are innumerable, and parroquets abound. As many of the carcases of the bullocks were left in the fields, a vast number of birds, like seagulls, would come down together, after the butchers had left the ground, and cover a quarter of a mile of land, so that it scarcely. could be seen. The birds nests appeared to be curiously constructed, some of which I took for the pur; ose of inspection: they were built around branches near the stem of the tree, of different materials, such as mud, &c. as big as a large cocoa-nut; in the most concealed part is the entrance, which runs round the fabric like a periwinkle, till at the bottom is a feathered nest, much like those in England. It is difficult to procure either young or eggs from such a building, and it was some time before I was able fully to inspect the whole. Dogs are numerous, of different species, disagreeable and dangerous. Most huts on the outside of the town keep from eight to twelve of these animals, which are exceedingly troublesome to all passengers, and will The other species surround horse and man.' are what the inhabitants call fire-dogs; these are not so large, have no hair, and their skin feels more like the human; they are used by these people in the cool weather to sleep at their feet to keep them warm. They had a disagreeable appearance. The abundance of heads, entrails, feet, &c. left at the different places of slaughter, afford plenty of provi sion for these numerous creatures, which so rapidly increase that the governor orders the soldiers for a number of days, twice every year, to kill all they meet, when thousands are slain. The Spaniards here live in opulence and in dolence, most servile work being executed by negroes and natives, and few families of any note having less than six or more negroes to attend upon them. There appeared to be a mixture of effeminacy and austerity in their disposition at one moment they ́manifest that feeling sympathy which is sufficient to affect the beholder; at another they seem to be capable of alarming a stranger. The heat of the sun may occasion some small difference between the complexion of the Spaniards here and in Europe: they are dark, but a few of the ladies are fair. The troops wear long black whiskers, and make but an indifferent appearance. The gentlemen differ but little in their dress from Europeans, wear cloaks, and without them in London would be taken for livery servants. The dress of the ladies differs more: they wear no caps, but their long hair is tied all round in a bunch at the top, and some have elegant circular combs: they use no gown, but a short jacket, which covers the top of their petticoat or other apparel; and shoes singularly high: they cover the head, and nearly the face, with a hood, which comes round over the shoulders, and being black, when they go to mass, with their beads and crucifixes on their arms, I have taken them at a distance for a company of friars. The children of both sexes are dressed, to one of a month old, as nearly as possible in the same stile, are put into breeches before the month, and when it is possible to collect the hair either in a bunch or tie, it is done, and powdered; nay, in town, little creatures that can scarcely run alone, and others in their mothers' arms are dressed in this manner. - It is the universal custom immediately after dinner for both ladies and gentlemen to retire to bed, and they would be as much disappointed if prevented from doing so as we would for want of a night's rest. The curious manner in which the ladies drink their tea, which they call mattee, rather surprised -us: this herb, Paraguay, so generally used, is put into a cup, commonly the shell of a pomegranate, the stem of which is turned to form a handle; in this the tea is put, both the leaf and pieces of the stem, they then pour hot water upon it, and draw the liquid through a tube, which is made either of reed, tin, or silver, and while partaking of it look as if they were smoaking a pipe. Its taste is bitter, and few of us had much relish for it. Some of the chief people have pots of silver, which look very well; this drink is more universally used than perhaps any other by people of every description, and the ladies, content with water, can scarcely be prevailed to taste spirits or wine, some of which they have; the wine, both red and white, is of their own manufacturing, but the spirits are imported from the Brazils. VOL. I. [Lit. Pan. Nov. 1806.] NATIVES. The natives of Paraguay differ from the Spaniards both in person and dress: their complexion is of an olive hue and rather darker than the other. They are of a middle stature and well made, have flat faces, and jet black long stout hair. They scem in general to be a quiet though robust people, yet some few exhibit a disposition quite the reverse. Their dress is an oblong garment, like a striped rug, about a yard wide, with a hole in the middle to admit the head, it hangs down before and behind, with the sides open, falling loose as low as the knees, and leaving the arms unrestrained. Their stockings and boots are made of skins, flayed from the legs of horses and oxen, which in shape are exactly the same as when taken from the beast, as they never cut or alter them. Their shoes are merely a piece of stout skin turned up, with holes, and tied with slips of the same: they wear drawers over a short petticoat, which at the knee forms a fringe: those near town have jackets which they wear under the oblong cloth, and the head is covered with a small hat, tied under the chin, which they loosen when they salute each other. Their huts are the rough branches of trees tied together with pieces of the skins of beasts, the roof is covered with long grass, rushes, and weeds. Four sticks tied at each corner, with a bullock's hide, make their bed, hung up in the hut. Round some of these huts a wall is erected about four feet high, entirely built of bullock's heads, one above the other, with the horns, as cut from the animal's neck. These men are healthy, and exceedingly alert, especially on horseback, to which they are trained from their childhood. Their food chiefly consists of beef, fruit, and water. Both Spaniards and natives always carry long knives at their side, and even children are indulged in the same liberty, to which they apply for defence as naturally as one would in England lift his hand to return ano ther a blow on the face. Their manner of catching bullocks to kill, is remarkable: if it is but one they want, they ride after him over the plains ull he is caught; but if more than one, they at dif ferent places have pinfolds, into which they drive a number. When ready to begin, two men mount their horses, with a catch-rope 100 yards in length, having a long noose at one end, while the other is fastened to a ring in the saddle; one now rides in among the oxen, throws the rope around the horns of that which he chooses and gallops out. The creature finding himself entangled, generally runs to the extremity that the rope will admit, and the horse draws him near a suitable place. The other native is now ready to watch the opportunity of the prancing of the beast, and after swinging the rope several times over his head, throws it with a dexterity peculiar to |