zances of their mysteries embroidered on their sleeves."* They are also described by Matthew Paris to have worn a costume at the marriage of Henry III.; but their dress on these occasions could not be denominated a livery in the modern sense of the term, as the crafts were all dressed alike. Of their afterwards assuming a mourning dress, Stow instances the case of Henry the Seventh's funeral, when the corporation of London, with all the livery companies, met the king's body in St. George's Fields dressed in black.+

The grocers' resolutions, as we have seen, prescribe the wearing of a livery to that company, at their first meeting in 1345; and from their ordinances in 1348, which are, perhaps, the earliest known in which the fashion of it is particularized, we find that the common habit consisted of an upper and an under garment, called a "coat and surcote;" the cloak or gown, and the hood, being reserved for ceremonials, and completing what was termed "the full suit." There seems also to have been an undress, or part dress, called "the hooding ;" perhaps allowed to freemen, who were not esteemed "full brothers," like the livery. In the fishmongers' gild of St. Peter, some years later, it is ordained that

"Ones in eu'y yere ayens the fest of Seint Peter and Poule, the same frat nite, that is to seye, eu'y p'son thereof, shall have the lyule, be it hole clothing or elles hodyng atte ordinuince of the wardeyns for the tyme beyng, and that eu'y p'son kepe his clothyng and lyue to (two) yere durynge, withouten geoyng it away to prentys, or to any other man or woman that is nought of the same frat:nite."§

§ Stow notices the hood (which was evidently copied from the monk's cowl) as an indispensable appendage to the ancient civic liveries. The coverture of men's heads in these times, he says, was hoods; for neither cap nor hat is spoken of, except in the case of John Wells, mayor; and he refers to the liveries of Thomas of Lancaster, in the reign of Edward II., who allowed to every garment of his liveries fur, to fur their hoods; and to the pictures of aldermen in the reign of Henry VI. and Edward IV., who, with their scarlet gowns "on their backs, wore hoods on their heads." He mentions also a representation of the mayor in stained glass remaining in the guildhall chapel, sitting "in a habit party-coloured, and an hood on his head, the common-clerk and others bareheaded, with their hoods on their shoulders ;" and therefore he took it that square caps, as then worn, had their rise not earlier than Henry VII. Sir John White, amongst the "young aldermen" the author sneers at, as the first, he says, that wore the flat round cap, and left that example to his followers. He speaks also of the Spanish

To be admitted on the livery of a company was technically called "having the clothing." The grocers' fraternity were to be "clothed once a year in a suit of livery; and if they desire more, the same to be by assente, whether as coats or surcotes:" the purchase of this dress was to be made by the wardens, who were to receive a deposit of one penny from each person ordering it, forty pence more when the livery was bought, and the balance when it was delivered to the wearer. It was to be worn by all the fraternity, and was to last for two years. By a subsequent order, stating that some persons of the mystery had liveries made by such as were not of the fraternity. The fraternity's livery was to be worn by none but members, and was to be bought against Saint Anthony's day, in the month of May, when the whole brotherhood, but not strangers, were to be clothed in a full suit.*

Liveries, in the manner of the fraternities, becoming some years afterwards a general and dangerous party badge, it was ordained by Act 20 Rich. II. s. 1, "that no varlets called yeomen, nor none others of less estate than esquire, shall use nor bear no badge or livery, called livery of company, (ne porte null signe ne liv!ee appelle liv!ee de compaignie,) of any lord within the realm, unless he be menial, or familiar, or continual officer of his said lord." And it was further ordained, by statute of 26 Rich. II.,

felt hats, in his time beginning to supersede even the round cap itself; but adds, "in London, amongst the graver sort, I mean the livery of companies, remaineth a memory of the hoods of old time worn by their predecessors." He continues: "these hoods were worn, the roundlet upon their heads, the skirts to hang behind in their necks to keep them warm, the tippet to be on the shoulder, or to wind about their necks, &c." not confined to the livery companies. of Richard II., is represented with that monumental representations of citizens. were a species of hood. In more modern which the farmers' wives went to market. the cape and the tippet.

(Strype, ii. p. 248.) The hood was Merks, bishop of Carlisle in the reign article of dress. It is plenteous in old The judge's coif and the monk's cowl days, it existed in the red cloaks with It is now almost wholly superseded by

• The permission to wear the livery was afterwards extended to honorary members. In 1435, a receipt of 207. is acknowledged from "Sir Henry Bamflete, for his entry into the clothynge and brotherhood," (Account of Grocers' Company, p. 47.) This custom, by which the crafts broke their own laws, in admitting strangers to understand their "mysteries," had become common in other companies before this date. The brewers' books have a "Mem'dum: That Cornelius Gheene, a Dutchman, was admitted a freeman of the Brewers' Company, in the mayoralty of Drugo Barentyn, and was afterwards levied in the wars of King Henry V. as one of the king's esquires; and that, on his return from France, wishing to renew his connection with the company, he was admitted on paying his arrears of 10s., and 2s. for two years to come."

"That no spiritual or temporal lord, or others of less estate, or of whatsoever condition he might be, should give livery of cloth, either to the familiars of his household, his relations or kin, his stewards, council, or to the bailiffs of his manors: and also, that no livery should be given under colour of a gild or fraternity, or of any other association, whether of gentry, or servants, or of the commonalty; but that the whole should be abolished within ten months next after the parliament then sitting and further, that any taking livery contrary to that ordination, might be imprisoned without redemption: that the gild and fraternities offending, should lose their franchises, and those having no franchises, should forfeit 1007. to the king.*

It was in consequence of these statutes, as we shall see, that the companies were thenceforward obliged to have the king's licence to wear liveries: the nature of them seems to have been left to their own fancy.

All the companies continued to vary in the colour of this habit, until it became settled, about the beginning of the seventeenth century; but they appear, notwithstanding their difference as to colours, to have all dressed, as to fashion, nearly uniform as now.

In the grocers' books, under the year 1414, that company are stated to have worn "scarlet and green." In 1418, “scarlet and black." At the commencement of Henry the Sixth's reign the colours had changed to "murrey and plunket ;" the former described to be "a darkly-red," and the latter "a kind of blue." The grocers' colours are afterwards mentioned to be "murrey and plunket celestyne," the latter, a sky-coloured blue, 322 yards of which cloth (of the two colours) are stated to have cost 1027. 11s. 9d. In 1450 this company had a little varied the above colours; their blue gowns being ordered to be thenceforth of "vyolette in grayne," and "for hodyes, parted with crymsyn." Their beadle's under dress, in the reign

• "Assigning liveries to dependants and followers had been common from the Conquest, viz. for the king's judges, ministers, servants and others. (Vide Hist. Exch. 1, pp. 204, 220.) The nobility and others used to clothe their followers, about the reign of Richard II. for the purpose of maintaining their state and quarrels; when they began to be denounced under the name of 'Maintainers.' The adoption of liveries by the companies was probably in imitation. When they had got into established use, we find the aldermen assuming the power of granting and regulating them; and they subsequently required that the companies should attend in that garb at all solemnities."-Comment. on London.

of Henry IV., is said to have been of "grene cloth;" 3 yards of which, in 1401, cost 7s. as by the following entry:

"Paie a le Bedyl Rob Storm po! son vesture encoutre novele, po iij. verges d. p. verd. vijs."

"Sanguine," or "cloth of blood-colour," (also a species of red,) "parted with rayes," or striped cloth, and combined with green, were leading colours in other companies. The wardens' accounts of the brewers contain in 5 Henry V. entries of the purchase of "fine green cloth and cours-cloth," (drap. verd fyn and cours-cloth,) of divers drapers for that company's livery; with "cloths of ray, Savy-brown, and cloth de colore," the cost of which amounted in the whole to 1851. 4s. 10d. The latter colours are stated to have been bought for gowns and for "chaperons ;† the green and courscloth" were probably for vestments. A list accompanying these entries records the names of members to whom the livery was granted, with the quantities, kinds, and cost of the cloth delivered to each person, and its appropriation, whether for gowns or chaperons. In a similar list which follows, are contained the names of females entitled to the company's livery, amounting to thirty-nine in number, and who are credited for payment of their quarterage-money. They seem to have been divided into the three classes of maids, wives, and widows; some of the names being set down without any addition, others as the wives of persons mentioned; and others again with the title of widow, or "jadys la feme de" Richard, John, &c. In some cases the husband pays "po: luy and sa feme," in which case the quarterage is 2s., in all other instances the amount in this company 12d.‡

is

Or of "one colour," perhaps as distinguished from the rayed or striped cloth. The entry enumerates the drapers from whom the cloth is bought, with the names and price. As, Of William Weston of London, two whole cloths of livery, each piece containing 32 yards, 16s.; John Ringrove, tailleur, citezen de Loundres, one piece of green of 7 yards length, 30s.; William Ferriers, one piece of green, of 30 yards, 77. 10s.; and of Robert Tatersale, draper, of London, a piece of green cloth, 24 yards long, 47. 16s.; also John Griffith, of whom were bought 16 cloths of ray; and several other persons.

† A species of hat or hood, given at this time with liveries, and of which further mention will be made as we proceed.

"Ceux sount lez Nomes de ceaux qui sount Freres & Soeurs de n're frat nite & ount payez leur Qua! trages & valorem drap' de n're Liv e en ceste The names credited include, under the following forms of entry, "Allce Hore, xijd.; Anneys Gratten, xijd.; Constance Hossard, xijd.; Dioneys

an.'

In the 9th of Henry V. and during the mayoralty of William Cambrigge, there are again entries of the purchase of "rayes of cloth and blood-colour, for the clothing of the brethren and sisters of the fraternity of brewers' craft," amounting to 997. 16s. 24d. They also repeat the notices of those who had "chaperons of the livery," as well as advert to the custom of the company having "a dinner the first day that we did cut our cloth of livery."

An interesting specimen of the "full clothing," or livery, near the time we are speaking of, will be seen in the accompanying engraving of

HENRY VI. DELIVERING THE LEATHERSELLERS' CHARTER, A.D. 1444.

It is composed of beautiful illuminations, forming the initial letter and part of an ornamented border of the charter, and affords a fine idea of the royal costume of the period, as well as of the livery then worn by the companies.

The young king appears on the throne under a "State," habited in a crimson vest, and robe of azure blue, furred with ermine; and he wears a high tapering single-bowed crown,

Bershope, xijd.; Constance Carron, xijd.; Kat: ne Roche, xijd.; Margarete Cadynghouse, xijd.; Julyan Hardersete, widowe, xijd.; Joh'ne la feme de John Harolde, wolmong! xijd.; la feme jadys de Mest: William Cooke, xijd.; Johane jadys la feme de Piers, Worke, xijd.; Richarde Frenys, luy & sa feme, ijs.; Richard Terell, por luy & sa feme ijs.; And Brett, por luy & sa feme, ijs." &c.