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some parts of this state, and several other sources of hidden wealth may lie concealed in these rude tracts; but the industry or ingenuity of this people has never been awakened by demand or inquiry.

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The chief and almost only manufacture of Bischur consists in the fabrication of woollen cloths of several sorts, and in this they excel the inhabitants of all the countries between the Sutlej and Alaknunda. The wool produced here is of a superior quality, and they import from Bootan a quantity of still better. From this they weave blankets of different sizes and fineness: woollen cloth for trowsers, chiefly black; fine webs for cummerbunds, and for throwing around their shoulders in the fashion of a Scotch plaid; a sort of well napped cloth, called by them seek cloth, which is used for their coats and dress, and the black bonnets which they wear on their heads. The fabric of many of these cloths is remarkablyd. The blankets are of the twilled sort, close and fine: and the seek-cloth is nearly equal to our finest English blankets. It is curious to find this word seek-cloth, which is a Persian term for broad cloth of any sort, used in so remote a region. The word, I understand, is prevalent in the above sense all over the East, and it would argue that the manufacture was of recent date, probably an imitation of cloth imported with its name from the Caubul teriitories, as so exact a similitude in the terms used in naming two articles of the same nature in two countries, whose language have no resemblance, can scarcely be presumed to have occurred otherwise. They also manufacture a small quantity of shawl-wool, imported from Bootan, into pieces resembling the coarse shawls called D,hoossas. Sometimes they mix it with sheep's wool, thus giving it more substance but less fineness. These cloths have no great beauty, but the texture, twilled like the shawls, seems to indicate that the people with proper encouragement would in all likelihood produce an useful and perhaps a fine manufacture from this material.

CASHMERE SHAWLS,

The author may, however, be permitted to advert loosely to one object, viz. the shawl-wool trade, which is now monopolised by Cashmere. A new channel opening to a profitable market would not, it is believed, fail to direct a portion at least of this trade to Hindostan;

while, when the skill of our weavers is known, it is not to be supposed that they would fall far short of the perfection to which the Cashmerian artisans have arrived. It is well known that this trade is by far the most profitable which that small state enjoys; indeed it is almost that alone which enriches its people, while government derive a principal share of their revenue from the duties on their sale. It seems at least well worth while to encourage the trial to divert a share of this source of wealth into our own hands.

To our enquiries as to the possibility of procuring any quantity of shawl-wool through the pass at present, it was answered, that a few hundred maunds might be procured, but that if any large quantity was required, it would be necessary to make some reference to the Chinese authorities at Gar,ha, or the towns where it is chiefly sold. This would not appear to be a matter of much difficulty to obtain, as from certain late occurrences it is to be presumed that the officers are rather well disposed towards Europeans; and it may be believed that any offer of competition which would raise the price, if not indiscreetly pushed, would be listened to, particularly if accompanied with some profit to the authority permitting the trade; and the distance from the seat of empire makes the officers on the frontiers too independent to render it possible that any interference would take place from the court of Pekin to the prejudice of an agree ment so made.

THE HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINS.

The great Himalayan snowy range is only the highly elevated crest of themountainous tract that divides the plains of Hindostan from those of Thibet, or lesser Tartary. Far as they predominate over, and precipitously as they rear themselves above the rest, all the hills that appear in distinct ranges, when viewed from the plains, are indeed only the roots and branches of this great stem; and, however difficult to trace, the connexion can always be detected between each inferior mountain and some particular member of its great origin. At times, indeed, this connexion seems nearly broken; and a lofty peak, rearing itself, as if in rivalry, presents a very extensive ramification of lesser ridges, separating ravines which extend down to the great drains of the country, and thus becomes, as it were, the nucleus of a subordinate district; from the lofty

height of which, the country between it and the principal chain seems comparatively low, though very rugged; and in this hollow generally lies some river, with its subsidiary streams, which drain a large portion of the snow that annually melts from their sides. All the regularity of ranges which deceive the eye, in viewing this mountainous belt from the distant plains, thus vanishes on entering the country; and the whole becomes a confused and chaotic assemblage of most rugged mountains, huddled into masses and peaks, and running into ridges which defy arrangement; and it is only by attentive observation that they can be traced to one or other of the mighty piles that compose the snowy range.

The horizontal depth of this mountainous tract, on that side which overlooks Hindostan, is no doubt various; but, from the difficulty of the country, a traveller performs a journey of many days before he reaches the foot of the immediate snowy cliffs. The best observations and survey do not authorise the allowance of more than an average depth of about sixty miles from the plains to the commencement of these, in that part of the country that forms the subject of this narrative. The breadth of the snowy zone itself in all probability varies still more; for huge masses advance in some places into the lower districts, and in others the crest recedes in long ravines, that are the beds of torrents, while behind they are closed by a succession of the loftier cliffs. Every account we receive of a passage through them (and this is no doubt found most commonly where the belt is narrowest) gives a detail of many days' journey through deserts of snow and rocks; and it is to be inferred, that on the north-east side they advance to, and retreat from the low ground in an equally irregular manner. Indeed, some accounts would induce the belief, that long ranges, crowned with snow-clad peaks, project in various places from the great spine, and include habitable and milder districts; for, in all the routes of which we have accounts, that proceed in various directions towards the Trans-Himalayan countries, hills covered with snow are occasionally mentioned as occurring, even after the great deserts are passed, and the grazing country entered. The breadth, then, of this crest of snow-clad rock itself cannot fairly be estimated at less than from seventy to eighty miles.

Of the distance to which the hilly country extends beyond the snowy crest we must judge chiefly by inference, assisted by the limited information we can obtain from the routes held through it by natives, which must always be taken with very great allowance, even where there seems to be no inducement to deceive. The only European travellers who are known to have entered on this new ground are Messrs. Moorcroft and Hearsey, who penetrated by the NiteeMana pass, and reached the lake of Mantullaee, Mansrowar, or Mepang. All these sources lead us to presume a pretty extensive detail of hills beyond the loftiest belt, that by no means terminate even at Gara or Gartope, though they do not reach the height of those to the westward and southward. A branch of the Cailas range, undoubtedly a ramification of the Himala, stretches out beyond the lake Mansrowar, a considerable way towards Gartope. Beyond this point there seem at present to exist no grounds, on which even a conjecture may be formed concerning the nature of the country. The general character of the hills on the north-east side of the Himala, if we judge from information, seems somewhat less rugged and inhospitable than those on the southwestern face. The route subsequently detailed will show that the valleys there are more even, the roads less difficult, and the hills less abrupt and rocky than the latter exposure exhibits; and this seems to harmonize with the rule generally observed in the primary formation of this tract, that the western, northwestern, and south-western exposures are uniformly the most rugged and precipitous; while those to the south-eastward and north-eastward are ever the roundest and most accessible. It seems that all the north-eastern hills are much tinged with red soil. Is there any analogy or connexion between this colour of the soil and the gold, which is found in considerable quantities in these districts, particularly in the bed of its

rivers?

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has here and there, discovered a dangerous and difficult path, by which a possibility exists of penetrating across the range. Few rivers hold their course wholly through it: indeed, in the upper part in the Sutlej alone has been traced beyond this rocky barrier; and there is a path along its stream, from different parts of which roads diverge, that lead in various directions through the mountains. No reasonable doubt can now exist of the very long and extraordinary course which this river takes: the routes given below will trace it particularly nearly to its origin. Several other passes through the Himala exist to the southeastward; but I am unacquainted with all of them beyond Kumaoon, between which and that of the Sutlej, the passes of Joar, Darma, Nitteemana, Lamanittee, Gurooneettea, and Birjee, are found practicable for the conveyance of goods, and all cut the range in a direction little varying from west to east, which coincides with that in which the hills are divided by nature, by the ravines through which the principal drains have their course, and in which most of the great masses that jut down from the snowy crest towards the plains send their continuous ridges, showing an intimate connexion with the great primary formation of the country, and the peculiarities of its chief features.

Cashmere appears to be the true limit of the Himala range. Beyond the point where the mountainous chain is cut by the Attock, and, indeed, even to the south-eastward of it, according to every account I have heard, the mountains decline in altitude, and the hilly country spreads out on both sides to a less circumscribed space.

LUDHAK.

The state that attracts the chief attention is undoubtedly Ludhak: its territorial extent seems to be considerable, and our information leads to the belief that it possesses a good deal of importance from its political and commercial relations with the Chinese government at Gara, and the territories of the Lamas, and with Cashmere, as well as from its own internal resources and valuable exports. It is bounded, to the best of our information, on the west by Cashmere and its dependencies, on the southwestward and southward by Chumbee, Cooloo, and Bischur, which also circumscribes it on the south-eastward. The districts under Chinese sway, of which Gara and Tuling form two of the chief

stations, lie to the eastward and northeastward; perhaps it is not far removed in these quarters from the country recognised as Yarkund. Many small states have, doubtless, had existence between these just mentioned; but they seem chiefly to have been absorbed into the large ones, and are now at least of no consequence: we were given to understand, that Ludhiak was in some degree tributary both to China and to Cash

mere.

Ludhuk itself is, probably, chiefly a grazing country, and supplies much shawl wool, though the principal mart for this is at Gara. The routes through its territories describe chiefly rugged mountains topped with snow, projections certainly from the Himala range, and lower hills of reddish soil, covered with short grass, representing a country fit for sheep; but little is said of cultivation until we are brought to the valley of the Singkechoo, which seems to be the rich district of the country. This is full of cultivation and villages; here also is placed the capital of the country, Leh, or Ludhak.

This town, our accounts inform us, is situated on the north or right bank of the river, but about two cos distant from it, and is watered by a rivulet, which here empties itself into its bed. From the village of Humee to Leh, a distance, it is said, of sixteen or seventeen cos, we are told that the valley widens much, and is from two to four cos broad, very richly cultivated with wheat, barley, and oe, or rye, and thickly studded with villages; the road along the river excellent, broad, and planted on each side with chiloomah-trees: and this prosperous state continues for a considerable distance below upon the river's banks. The town itself once contained about 1000 good houses, but report states it to have fallen off, and it is now reduced to about 700. These generally consist of several stories, the lower story built by uniting two thin walls of stone filled with mud between them; the upper is entirely formed of the latter material, as is the roof, which is flat, forming a terrace: they are said to be well constructed. There are well stocked bazars, and several shops (twelve or thirteen) kept by the Cashmerian Mussulmauns, but no Hindoo bunyas, or shopkeepers: flour, ghee, grain, flesh, and all articles of consumption are sold in the market by the people from the country, who bring them to town. The palace of the rajah is at

Leh;

Leh; we are told that his title among the people of the country is "gealbo," which is equivalent to rajah. His name is Neena Mungreal. I believe his religion is that of the Lamas; but an universal spirit of toleration seems to prevail under his sway, for all persuasions find protection there, Hindoos, Mussulmauns, Lamas, and Chinese.

HEIGHT OF THE HIMALA.

Mr. Colebrooke, late President of the Asiatic Society, in his Memoir "On the Height of the Himala Mountains, contained in the twelfth volume of the Asiatic Researches, gives a list of the measurements of a number of peaks in different parts of the range, estimated from data there set forth; but chiefly from the observations of Captain Webb of the Bengal establishment, who has of late been employed on a survey of the province of Kumaoon.

On the 21st day of June, Captain Webb's camp was 11,680 feet above Calcutta. The surface was covered with very rich vegetation as high as the knee: very extensive beds of strawberries in full flower; and plenty of currant-bushes in blossom all around, in a clear spot of rich black mould soil, surrounded by a noble forest of pine, oak, and rhododendra. On the 22d of June he reached the top of Pilgoenta-Churhaee, (or ascent,) 12,642 feet above Calcutta. He was prevented from distinguishing very distant objects by a dense fog around him; but there was not the smallest patch of snow near him, and the surface a fat black mould through which the rock peeped, was covered with strawberry plants (not yet in flower), butter-cups, dandelion, and a profusion of other flowers. The shoulders of the hill above him, about 450 feet more elevated, were covered with the same to the top; and about 500 feet below was a forest of pine, rhododendron, and birch. There was some snow seen below in deep hollows, but it dissolves in the course of the season. He was informed by the goat-herds that they carried their flocks to pasture in July and August, to a ridge to the eastward, rising above Pilgoenta as far as it does above the site of his camp of the 21st of June, or at least 13,000 feet above Calcutta. But of this, Captain Webb purposed to have ocular demonstration.

These facts lead Captain Webb to infer, that the inferior limit of perpetual congelation on the Himala mountains is beyond 13,500 feet, at least, above the

level of Calcutta: and that the level of the table land of Tartary, immediately bordering on the Himala, is very far elevated beyond 8000 feet, the height at which it is estimated by the reviewer.

Of this detail of facts, given thus publicly by a scientific man of character and known accuracy, who thus, in some. measure, stakes his credit on them, there can be no reason, à priori, to doubt the correctness: and though, in applying them to the observations made in my own journey, I may not be able either to make all the deductions which they will afford, or to shun any errors that they may involve, they will still, I think, yield some ground of inference to estimate the height to which I ascended; and consequently, give some approximation to the heights of the surrounding peaks.

On the night of the 16th July we slept at Bheemkeudar, near the source of the Coonoo and Bheem streams. There is no wood near this place, even in the very bottom of the valley, and we had left even the stunted birch at a considerable distance below: but there was a profusion of flowers, ferns, thistles, &c. and luxuriant pasturage. Captain Webb's limit of wood is at least as high as 12,000 to 12,300 feet. I would, therefore, presume the site of Bheemkeudar to be considerably above that level; say 13,000 to 13,300 feet above the level of Calcutta. From thence we ascended at first rather gradually, and then very rapidly, till we left all luxuriant vegetation, and entered the region of striped and scattered and partially melting snow, (for nearly two miles of the perambulator.) From calculating the distance passed, and adverting to the elevation we had attained, I would presume that this was at least 1500 feet above Bheemkeudar, or from 14,500 to 15,000 feet above Calcutta.

We proceeded onwards, ascending very rapidly, while vegetation decreased gradually to a mere green moss, with here and there a few snow-flowers starting through it; snow fast increasing, till at length we entered on what I presume was the perennial and unmelting snow, entirely beyond the line of vegetation, where the rock was bare even of lichens: and in this we ascended, as I think, about 800 feet; for, though Bamsooroo Ghat may not be so far above this line, we continued ascending, even after crossing that point, and 1 would incline to estimate this utmost extent of

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ascent at 2000 feet more, or nearly 17,000 feet above the level of Calcutta.

Whilst proposing to consider the point of 16,000 to 16,500 feet as that of inferior congelation, I must observe, that there was no feeling of frost in the air, and the snow was moist, though hard, chiefly through the influence of a thick mist, which, in fact, amounted to a very small drizzling rain, which fell around: all which would seem to indicate, that the true line of congelation had not there been attained; but we ›were surrounded by snow which evidently never melted. To a great depth below it extended all over the hills, very little broken, while, on the valleys from whence the Coonoo and Bheem streams issue, at full 2000 feet below, it lay covering them and the surrounding mountains, in an unbroken mass many hundred feet thick. Thus, though it may seem contradictory, the line of perpetual congelation, in fact, seems fixable at even below the point I have ventured to indicate; and, I presume, might on these grounds, be placed somewhere between 15 and 16,000 feet above the Alevel of Calcutta.

The result of all the considerations that arise out of the foregoing remarks is a belief, that the loftiest peaks of the Himala range will be found to fall considerably short of the height attributed to them by Mr. Colebrooke.

From the valuable and interesting labours of the above named gentlemen, Captain Webb and Hodson, we may at no distant period hope for a near approximation to the truth; and till then there seems little danger of falling into great error in believing, that the loftiest peaks of the Himala mountains range from 18,000 to 22 or 23,000 feet above the level of the sea.

THE BHOTEAS.

The word Bootan, or the country of the Bhoteas, as well as the appellation Bhotea, is used in a very indefinite manner by all the inhabitants of the hills, even by those best informed; and instead of being applied to the circumscribed country which we know as Bootan, it signifies, generally, all the country lying behind the crest of the Himala that professes the Lama faith. Not only those who are directly under the Chinese government, but those of the petty hill rajahs who exercise their own authority, either independently or as feudatories to China, are known by the sweeping term Bhoteas.

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The great Lama at L,hassa is the deity they adore, and the priests of their religion are termed Lamas, and are distributed in abundance about the country: they are distinguished into two classes, those who marry, and those who make a vow of celibacy. They make a study of the books that contain the principles and tenets of the Lama faith. They perform the ceremonies of marriage, and bury the dead; and, it appears, are regarded, as the priesthood is in all countries, with much reverence.

Marriages seem here, as in many other places, more contracts of convenience, and matters of mere bargain and sale, than the result of a preference founded on affection or esteem. The fathers of the parties propose and conclude the bargain. He who has a marriageable daughter to dispose of, goes and seeks for a husband of his own choice, and, having found him, agrees with his father for the match, and gives a sum of money, according to his means, to bind the contract. After a time, which seems to have no particular limit, and perhaps has reference to the age of the parties, as well as to circumstances, the father of the boy, with the bridegroom himself, and from ten to twenty friends, according to an invitation that comes from the father of the lady, proceed to her house, and stay a night, when the ceremony is performed by the Lamas. This visit never exceeds one night, on the morning after which, the bridegroom and party carrying the bride, her father and a party of his friends, double in number those who were entertained at his house, proceed to the house of the bridegroom, and there also remain one night only, and leave the couple to themselves. They return alone, after eight or ten days, to her father's house for a short time, and then remove entirely to her husband's house. No women accompany the bride to the house of her husband, except one as an attendant: but the women of the village are entertained as well as the men, and all the expense falls on the bridegroom, as do the expenses of feeding and travelling from one house to the other of the whole party. We could not obtain any description of the marriage ceremony itself. Marriages take place at all ages after twelve, and generally between that and twenty.

The Bhoteas, like other Paharias, are very superstitious. Each hill, cave, mountain, or inaccessible place; each

gloomy

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