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Blue (Dark Fugitive Color). The goods are mordanted pale blue and washed. Boil clear water, and add 5 ounces of blue vitriol, 12 ounces of green vitriol, 1 pound of alum, 134 ounces of crude tartar, 2 ounces of tin salt, and 1 ounce of crude nitric acid. Boil the goods in the mixture for 1 hour. They are then lifted out, allowed to stand for 1 day, and washed. Clean water is then heated in a boiler, 2 pints of extract of logwood added, and the goods worked in this for hour, during which the heat is raised to the boiling point. From 27 to 33 pounds of woollen goods can be dyed by the above pro

cess.

Gens d'Armes Blue on loose Wool, Yarns, and Piece Goods. Boil for 1 hours 440 pounds of wool with 88 pounds of alum, 83 pounds of chromate of potash, 8 pounds of tin salt, and 6 pounds of sulphuric acid. The next day dye with 65 pounds of indigo-carmine, 22 to 26 pounds of logwood, and 13 pounds of common salt. Let the wool boil for 1 hours in the bath.

Brown (Chestnut). Boil in pure water for 5 minutes ounce of madder, a like quantity of sumach or ounce of gall-nuts, ounce of tartar, and 13 to 24 ounces of sanders wood. Place the goods in the bath, and let them boil for 1 hours. Then lift them out, cool the bath by adding cold water; then dissolve ounce of green vitriol in it, and work the wool in this for hour longer.

Brown (Coffee). Boil in pure water for 5 minutes 4 ounces of sanders wood 24 ounces of sumach or gall-nuts, and 1 ounce of green vitriol. The bath is cooled off by adding cold water, when the goods are placed in it and boiled slowly for half an hour, when they are taken out and the fire is extinguished; 2 ounces of green vitriol are then dissolved in the bath, in which the goods are worked for of an hour, when they are cooled off and rinsed.

Brown (Dark). Boil in water 4 ounces of sanders wood and 24 ounces of logwood, add 24 ounces of sumach or gall-nuts, and 1 ounce of green vitriol. Cool the mixture by adding cold water, then place the goods in it and let them boil slowly for hour, when they are taken out. Should the dye not

be dark enough, add 1 ounce more of green vitriol, and repeat the operation.

Brown (Grayish). Boil 1 ounce of sanders wood, a like quantity of madder, and 1 ounces of gall-nuts, or 3 ounces of sumach. Place the goods in the decoction and boil them for 1 hour. Then lift them out, dissolve 1 ounce of green vitriol in the bath, replace the goods in it, and work them, without allowing them to boil, until they are dyed sufficiently dark.

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Brown (Nut). Fill a small bag with ounces of fustic and 12 ounces of logwood, and boil them. When the coloring matter has been extracted lift the bag out and add 14 ounces of madder and a like quantity of sanders wood; then place the goods in the bath and let them boil for 1 hours, when they are lifted out. The bath is now cooled off with cold water and ounce of green vitriol is added. The wool is worked in it until it is sufficiently dyed.

Brown (Olive). Treat the following ingredients in the same manner as for nut brown: Seven ounces of fustic, 24 ounces of logwood, 1 ounce of gall-nuts, 24 ounces of madder, and 34 ounces of tartar. As soon as the tartar is dissolved place the goods in the bath, and, later on, when it is somewhat cooled off, add 1 ounces of green vitriol and work the wool in the vat until it has assumed the desired shade.

Brown (Sanders Wood, Fast). Thoroughly extract 4 pounds of rasped sanders wood in water. Place the wood, together with the extract, in a boiler, add 24 pounds of sumach and 24 pounds of fustic liquor, and let the bath boil for 4 hour. Then place the wool in the bath, work it thoroughly, and let it boil for 1 hours. The wool is then lifted out, the bath cooled off by adding cold water, and 1 pound of green vitriol added, when the wool is placed back into the bath, thoroughly worked in it, and boiled for hour more. is then lifted out, 4 ounces more of green vitriol and a bucketful of urine are added, and the wool worked in this without allowing it to boil.

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Chamois. Triturate ounce of annotto with water and add to this fluid ounce of potash. Let the bath boil for 5 minutes and then work the wool

in it. Now dissolve in warm water 1 ounces of alum, and work the wool for a few minutes in this solution.

Gray (Ash). Boil ounce of gallnuts in a suitable quantity of water for of an hour. Then dissolve in it ounce of tartar, place the wool in the bath and let it boil for 1 hour, frequently stirring it in the meanwhile, when it is lifted out. The bath is then thoroughly cooled, 1 ounces of green vitriol are added, and the wool worked in it until it has assumed the desired shade of color.

Gray (Bluish). Boil 1 ounces of gall-nuts, 4 ounces of tartar, and fluid drachm of indigo tincture. Place the cloth, previously moistened, in this mixture and let it boil for 1 hours, with frequent working. It is then lifted out and the bath compounded with 4 ounces of green vitriol and the cloth worked in it for hour longer.

Gray (Dark). Put 1 pound of logwood and 13 ounces of sumac in a small bag and boil them for hour in a boiler full of water. Then take the bag out, place 13 pounds of cloth, previously moistened with hot water, in the bath, and let it boil for 1 hour, when it is lifted out. The bath is then cooled by adding cold water; 8 ounces of green vitriol are added, and the goods worked in it for hour, and then boiled until they have acquired the de

sired shade.

Gray (Fast Dark). The cloth is first grounded blue with indigo and then boiled in a solution of 83 ounces of blue vitriol, 4 ounces of tartar, and some indigo tincture.

Gray (Light). Rub 1 ounce of verdigris as fine as possible with 31 pounds of good vinegar; let the fluid stand over night and boil it the next day with water. Add to the solution 1 ounce of gum Arabic and work the goods in it until they have acquired the desired shade. Gray (Silver). Boil for 10 minutes ounce of tartar, ounce of gall-nuts, and 1 drachm of blue vitriol. Work the wool in this bath and then let it boil until the desired color has been obtained.

Green (Olive). The goods are first grounded light blue. One pound of fustic is then tied in a small bag, placed in a boiler, and boiled for 1 hour, when

| it is taken out and 3 ounces of blue vitriol, 24 ounces of tartar, 34 ounces of madder, and 1 ounces of logwood liquor are dissolved in the bath. The goods are then placed in the bath and boiled for 1 hour, when they are lifted out. Four and one-half ounces of crushed gall-nuts are now added to the liquor and the goods boiled in this for

hour more, when they are taken out. The bath is now compounded with 1} ounces of green vitriol and some urine, and the goods are worked in this until they are sufficiently dyed.

Boil 24

Green (Brownish-olive). ounces of fustic and 1 ounce of madder, then add to the fluid 24 ounces of tartar and 1 drachm of gall-nuts. Place the goods in the bath, let them boil for 14 hours, take them out and cool them off in the open air. The bath is cooled by adding cold water, and compounded with ounce of green vitriol, when the goods are placed back in it, worked for hour, cooled off, and rinsed.

Lilac. Dissolve ounce of crystallized tartar and 2 ounces of alum in hot water, add ounce of pulverized cochineal to the solution, work the goods in the bath for hour, and then boil them for hour.

Then

Orange. Put 1 pound of quercitron bark in a small bag and boil it for hour in a boilerful of water. add to the fluid 1 pound of alum, ounce of tartar, and 24 ounces of tin salt. Boil the cloth in the bath for hour; cool the bath off, work the cloth once more, let it again boil for half an hour, and then wash it out. Now boil 8 ounces of madder with water, and work the cloth in the bath with constantly increasing temperature.

Yellow (Dark). Place 34 pounds of quercitron bark in a bag, boil it in a tin boilerful of water for hour. Then add 2 pounds of alum, 1 ounce of tartar, and 8 ounces of tin salt. Now boil the goods in the bath for 8 to 10 minutes, when they are taken out. Cool the bath by adding cold water, work the wool once more in it, and then let it boil for hour.

Yellow (Sulphur). Go through the same process as for dark yellow, but add, when that is finished, quercitron bark and solution of tin to the bath and let the wool boil in it for hour.

Yellow (with Weld). Dissolve 5 | them remain for 12 hours, then place pounds of alum in a corresponding them in a bath of tin salt of 3° Beaumé. quantity of water and boil the woollen Allow them to remain for 1 hour, when goods in this for 2 hours, when they are they are winched and brought into a put in a cool place, where they remain bath of 34 pounds of Brazil wood. Here for 1 day and are then washed. Now they remain for several hours, when sew 34 pounds of good French weld in they are winched and dried. a bag, boil it in a boilerful of water, cool the liquor, and work the wool thoroughly in this, without allowing it to boil.

COTTON GOODS AND YARNS.

Black. For 10 pounds of yarn. Prepare a lukewarm bath of 1 pound of dry extract of logwood and 14 quarts of water. Dissolve further 2 pounds of dry extract of logwood in 2 gallons of water. Now dye 2 pounds of the yarn in this dye-bath, take it out, wring it, and let it dry in the open air. Onequarter of the first solution is then added to the bath, and the second of the yarn treated therein. The same process is repeated with the remaining yarn until all the solution has been used.

No. II. Prepare a bath by dissolving 8 ounces of bichromate of potash and 24 ounces of crystallized soda in 2 gallons of water. After the first part of the yarn has been taken from the dye-bath, of the solution is added to it; the next portion of the yarn is dyed, and so on.

Brown (Chocolate). For 10 pounds. Boil the material for 1 hour with 1 pounds of sanders wood, 84 ounces of gall-nuts, 1 ounces of extract of logwood, 51 ounces of prepared catechu, and 34 ounces of tartar. After boiling let it remain in the bath for 1 hour, then add a solution of 8 ounces of green vitriol and 14 ounces of blue vitriol; mix them intimately with the bath and place the material in it for 1 hour longer, when it is taken out and rinsed.

Chamois. For 10 pounds. Treat the materials, after they have been prepared for dyeing, in a warm decoction of 4 ounces of annotto and 14 ounces of potash; lift them out, rinse, and then work them in fresh water mixed with sulphuric acid, and rinse.

Crimson. For 10 pounds. Red yarns are boiled in clean water. Place them in a bath of 2 pounds of sumac. Let

Gold Color (Cotton for Fringes, etc.). Boil, with constant stirring, 8 ounces of sugar of lead and 1 pound of litharge in 3 gallons of water. After the fluid has boiled for 5 to 10 minutes allow it to stand quietly until a precipitate is deposited, then pour the fluid off and mordant the yarn in this. When thoroughly permeated it is dried at a uniform heat, and then, without being washed, dyed in a bath of bichromate of potash. For the above-mentioned quantities a bath is used of 8 ounces of bichromate of potash, to which 41 ounces of nitric acid have been added. To produce a perfectly pure chrome yellow the bath must be entirely clear. If it has been used the clear liquor must be drawn off from the sediment. As soon as the yarn is taken from the bath it is washed for hour in a stream of running water to remove all traces of chrome yellow adhering mechanically to it. To produce a beautiful golden lustre dissolve ounce of saffron in 2 pounds of spirit of wine of 20° Beaumé, and add to the solution a sufficient quantity of fruit brandy to produce the desired shade. As a general rule 2 minutes are sufficient for the yarn to remain in this solution. The excessive moisture is wrung out and the yarn dried in the shade at a moderate heat. The yarn, as it comes from the saffron bath, must not be washed, as the color becomes dull in hard water containing lime and the yarn rough.

Gray (Silver). Boil the yarn in clean water and bring it into a wooden vat containing hot water and 8 ounces of catechu boiled in 34 quarts of clean water. Work the yarn in this bath for hour and wring it. Now fill a vat with clean cold water; add to this 2 ounces of green vitriol dissolved in hot water. Work the yarn in this until it has acquired the desired color, then rinse and dry it.

Green (Dark). Boil 5 pounds of fustic in pure water for of an hour, and add 54 ounces of verdigris dissolved in

water. Treat the material in a bath of 11 pounds of sumac, and place it for hour in the liquor heated to 190° F. and boil for a few minutes; then lift out and wring. The dyed material is brought into a vat containing hot water and extract of logwood and worked for hour at 190° F. and rinsed.

Mineral Green. Prepare a lye of caustic potash by dissolving in a wooden vat 1 parts of potash in water and gradually adding 2 parts of burned lime to the solution. The liquor is then thoroughly stirred, and allowed to stand quietly for 12 hours, when the clear fluid is drawn off into a vat filled with cold water. Twenty-five parts of the material to be dyed are worked in the liquor for hour, when it is winched, and dyed in a hot bath to which have been added 11 parts of sulphate of copper dissolved in hot water; here it remains for hour, when it is winched and dried.

Yellow. Dissolve 1 ounce of sugar of lead and ounce of alum in warm water; place 1 pound of material in this bath, work it for some time, and finish the dyeing process in a solution of chromate of potash.

Yellow (Chrome). For 15 pounds of yarn or cloth. I. Slack 6 pounds of freshly burned lime in 50 gallons of water, and then dissolve 3 pounds of sugar of lead in the liquor.

II. Stir pounds of acetate of lead into 2 gallons of water and slake 6 pounds of freshly burned lime in the liquor. The plumbiferous lime formed in this manner is brought into 50 gallons of water and the fluid allowed to become clear by standing, when it is ready for use.

The cotton material is then moistened twice in succession with one of the above fluids, and, while still moist, brought into a bath of chromate of potash. This gives a beautiful chrome yellow color.

A beautiful green is obtained by dyeing indigo-blue cotton goods in the above manner.

TO DYE WOOL, SILK, AND COTTON
WITH ANILINE COLORS.

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colors it is of the greatest advantage to transform them by dissolution into a very much diluted fluid. For instance fuchsine, soluble in water, is dissolved with gradual stirring in boiling water in the proportion of 2 pounds of crystallized fuchsine in 60 gallons of water. The resulting solution is filtered and used for dyeing. The wool, uniformly moistened, is dyed without any further preparation in a very clean, tepid bath of 85° F. to which some solution of fuchsine is added from time to time, and the temperature raised to 120° F. Two pounds of fuchsine, soluble in alcohol, is gradually dissolved in 4 to 44 gallons of good spirit of wine of 90 per cent., previously heated to 100° to 120° F., and the solution used for printing and dyeing. For printing on silk and wool the ordinary inspissations are used, such as gum, etc., but on cotton it is necessary to use albumen, which should always be preferred to its substitutes.

Fuchsine on Silk, Bluish Shade. One of the above-mentioned solutions of fuchsine is added to a cold bath acidulated with acetic or tartaric acid, and the silk dyed in this, with slow addition of color, until the desired shade has been obtained. If less bluish shades are desired, no acid is added to the bath.

Fuchsine on Cotton. Only thoroughly mordanted cotton can be well and uniformly dyed with fuchsine. An oil mordant, as for Turkish red, is excellent, but, instead of this, an acid mordant consisting of 1 part of sulphuric acid and about 3 parts of olive oil may be advantageously used. A tannic acid mordant can also be recommended. The yarn is then brought into a solution of sumac of 120° F., then into a bath of stannate of soda, and finally into a bath containing sulphuric acid, when it is washed and dyed as given above.

Eosine on Wool. Eosine, soluble in water, is dissolved in hot water, and that, soluble in alcohol, in spirit of wine, in the same manner as fuchsine.

Prepare a water bath of 85° F., add a sufficient quantity of the eosine dissolved in water, place the thoroughly moistened wool in it and heat to 105° F. Then add alum in the proFuchsine on Wool. In using aniline portion of 1 to 2 ounces to 2 pounds

of wool, bring the bath slowly to the boiling point and let it boil for about hour. The wool is then finished by thorough washing.

The following receipt has been thoroughly tried and found to be excellent: For 80 pounds of wool take 3 pounds of tartar and 2 pounds of eosine dissolved and filtered through a cloth. Enter the moist wool and let it boil slowly for hour. The wool is then lifted out, 2 pounds of chloride of tin is dissolved in the same bath and thoroughly stirred. The wool is again placed in the bath, and slowly boiled for hour longer. It is best to allow the wool to cool in the boiler.

Eosine on Silk. Dye in a boiling soap bath with an addition of an organic acid.

Eosine on Cotton. For bluish shades, the cotton is placed in a bath of castile soapsuds of 120° F. and allowed to remain in it for hour. It is then mordanted for hour with nitrate of lead of 3° Beaumé, then thoroughly washed, and finally dyed in a bath of eosine of 120° F. For a yellowish shade more or less alum, according to the tint desired, is added to the bath of nitrate of lead. Very pure, soft water should be used for all baths. Scarlet and Erythrosine on Wool. Dissolve the color in hot water. Then prepare a bath of 120° F., which contains 10 pounds of alum to 100 pounds of wool, and place the wool in it. After the lapse of hour add the coloring matter, bring the bath slowly to the boiling point, and let the wool boil for hour, when it is taken out and thoroughly washed.

Violet on Wool. Two pounds of aniline violet is dissolved with slow stirring in 6 to 8 gallons of spirit of wine, 90 per cent. strong, the solution heated to 105° F., and then filtered. The wool is dyed in a weak sulphuric acid bath of 105° to 125° F., to which the dyestuff is added. The bath is slowly brought to the boiling point. A more or less reddish tint can be given by an addition of sulphuric acid.

Violet on Silk. The silk is placed in a bath of 105° to 125° F., slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid, and the desired shade is obtained by slowly adding the dye-stuff.

Aniline Blue (Blue, Light Blue, and Soluble Blue). The color is dissolved in the same manner as violet, but it is advisable to take more spirit of wine. The soluble blue is dissolved in boiling water.

On Wool and Silk. The same directions hold good as for violet, but more alum is added and generally more sulphuric acid. A clearer and more beautiful color on wool is obtained by boiling the wool first with chloride of tin and alum. Of all the colors mentioned here, blue is the most difficult to dissolve in water, and as the fibres do not absorb it uniformly it is requisite that the coloring matter should be added very gradually.

Cotton is dyed in a bath to which acetate of alumina has been added as a mordant. The acetate of alumina is obtained by boiling 15 parts of sugar of lead and 20 of sulphate of alumina with 100 of water. The resulting clear solution is used as a mordant.

Alkali Blue. Two pounds of this is dissolved in at least 4 gallons of boiling water, and when the solution is complete 15 gallons more of hot water are added to it.

For 100 pounds of Wool. Prepare a bath with 8 pounds of borax, heat it to 105° F., then add the solution of coloring matter, and gradually heat to the boiling point. The wool is then washed in cold water, placed in a lukewarm bath acidulated with sulphuric acid, and heated to the boiling point. To dye according to sample, dissolved coloring matter is added to the first bath until a sample of the wool, taken from this bath and worked in a boiling hot acid bath, has assumed the desired color.

A bath of waterglass is now generally preferred to that of borax, 15 pounds of it being required for 100 pounds of wool. The further treatment is the same as with borax.

Light Blue on Cotton. For 100 pounds. The cotton is soaped and dried. A solution of 2 pounds of alum, 2 pounds of tartar emetic, and 6 pounds of dissolved calcined soda is used as a mordant. After mordanting the cotton it is dyed in a fresh bath, to which diluted sulphuric acid has been added the temperature being gradually raised

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