PERFUMERY. AROMATIC VINEGARS, COSMETICS, EXTRACTS, HAIR OILS, POMADES, POWDERS, WASIES, FUMIGATING ARTICLES, ETC.

Extraction of Perfume from Flowers. Remove the unpleasant odor from methyl chloride by treating it in a gaseous state with sulphuric acid. The apparatus for extracting the flowers consists of a digesting vessel, a holder for the purified methyl chloride, a hermetically closed receiver, and an airpump. Place the flowers in the digesting vessel and submit them for 2 minutes to the action of the liquid methyl chloride which is then run into the receiver. Repeat this operation frequently, each time with fresh methyl chloride. Finally the methyl chloride absorbed by the blossoms in the digesting vessel is removed by rarefying the air, and conveyed to the condensing apparatus. The last traces of it may be gained by the introduction of a jet of steam. The methyl chloride collected in the receiver, which is placed on a water-bath heated to about 86° F., is volatilized by rarefying the air to atmosphere, the perfuming substances mixed with fatty and wax-like matters remaining behind. By treating them with cold alcohol the perfume is obtained in a perfectly pure state.

Manufacture of Perfumery. Pure alcohol free from fusel oil and other substances of a disagreeable odor is one of the principal requisites for the manufacture of good perfumery. It is also of the utmost importance that the ethereal oils used should be perfectly pure and of the best quality.

Eau des Alpes. Two thousand parts of alcohol, 38 parts each of oil of orange blossoms, cedrat oil, and oil of bergamot, 15 parts each of oil of lemon and Portugal oil, 8 parts of oil of wormwood, and 4 parts of oil of cloves.

Eau de Cologne. Six hundred and fifty parts of 96 per cent. alcohol, 50 parts each of orange water and rose water, 200 parts of neroli, 400 parts of oil of lavender, 200 parts of oil of bergamot, 900 parts of "petit-grain" oil, 250 parts of oil of rosemary, and 50 parts of myrtle oil.

Otto's Eau de Cologne. Mix the following ingredients with 400 parts of

alcohol of 86 per cent. Tralles: Four parts of oil of lemon, 3 of oil of berga mot, of neroli, of lavender oil, of rosemary oil, 1 of spirit of sal-ammoniac.

Thillaye's Eau de Cologne. Dissolve the following oils in 2000 parts of strong alcohol: 60 part each of bergamot and lemon, 12 parts of cedrat, and 3 parts of rosemary.

Wagner's Eau de Cologne. Place the following ingredients in a glass matrass: Four parts each of chopped leaves of common balm, peppermint, and basil, 6 of bruised angelica root, 1 of bruised coriander seed, and 13 of bruised cloves. Pour 300 parts of alcohol and 100 of water over them, let the whole digest for 48 hours, and then distil off 300 parts. Then pour 100 parts of 40 per cent. alcohol over 2 of neroli, 4 of orange oil, 2 of oil of bergamot, of oil of peppermint, 2 of tolu balsam, and of essence of ambergris, and allow the mixture to stand quietly for 24 hours. Then pour the supernatant liquid off, mix it with the first, let the whole stand again for a few hours, filter through animal charcoal, and finally distil it.

Eau de Lavande Ambra. Four hundred parts of alcohol, 100 parts of oil of cloves, 200 parts of oil of bergamot, 600 parts of oil of lavender, 100 parts of Portugal oil, 300 parts of tincture of violets, 25 parts each of tincture of benzoine and tincture of storax, 50 parts of tincture of musk, 25 parts of tincture of ambergris, 100 parts of water, and 100 parts of sugar-color.

Eau de Paris. Eight thousand parts of 85 per cent. alcohol, 62 parts each of oil of lemons, oil of bergamot, and Portugal oil, 15 parts of neroli, and 8 parts of oil of rosemary.

Empress Eugenie's Nosegay. One part each of extracts of musk, vanilla, tonka beans, and neroli, and 2 parts each of extracts of rose geranium and sandal wood and triple essence of roses.

Esprit de Patchouli. Mix 1 part of elixir of musk and 1 part of patchouli oil with 300 parts of cologne water, and distil in a steam-bath.

Esprit de Rose triple. Mix 100 parts of rose oil with 4000 parts of rectified spirit of wine, and distil.

Esprit de Toilette Française. Dis

Allow the mixture to stand for several days, and then filter through carbonate of magnesium.

Ambergris Vinegar. White vinegar 800 parts, ambergris part, and musk part. Rub the ingredients fine in a mortar before adding them to the vinegar. Then moisten the powder with some of the vinegar, and with the remainder rinse out the mortar, put all into a flask, allow it to digest for 5 or 6 days, and then draw off 500 parts, or, at the utmost, 600 parts.

Aromatic Vinegar. Pour 300 parts of vinegar over 6 parts each of choppedup leaves of rosemary, garden sage, peppermint, bruised cloves, bruised zedoary root, and pulverized angelica root. Macerate for 4 days in a closed vessel, then press and filter.

Clove Vinegar. Digest in 800 parts of vinegar for days: Eighteen parts of

bruised cloves, 6 parts each of grated nutmegs and cinnamon, 9 parts of car nation pink blossoms, 3 parts each of mace, cinnamon blossoms, and orange blossoms; then press out and filter.

Jasmine Vinegar. Pour 800 parts of white-wine vinegar over 50 parts of jasmine blossoms, and 9 parts each_of bergamot and orange rind cut up. Let the mixture digest for 3 days, then draw off and filter the vinegar.

of white-wine vinegar over 100 parts Lavender Vinegar. Pour 800 parts of lavender blossoms, 9 parts each of chopped leaves of rosemary, gentian, and marjoram, 4 parts of thyme leaves angelica root and violet root. Let the cut up, and 3 parts each of bruised mixture digest for 3 days, draw off the liquid, strain the residue, add the liquid obtained to the first, and filter the whole through blotting paper.

Musk Vinegar. in 800 parts of white-wine vinegar: Digest for 3 days Twenty parts of blossoms of the yellow, sweet sultan flower, 3 parts of chopped rosemary leaves, and 6 parts each of bruised anise seed, bruised caraway seed, chopped angelica root, and bruised cardamons; press out, strain, and add 3 parts of musk. Let the whole stand for 36 hours and filter through blotting paper. The musk remaining upon the filter can be used several times in preparing this vinegar.

Orange Blossom Vinegar. Pour 500 parts of white-wine vinegar over 16 parts of orange blossoms, 6 of jasmine blossoms, 6 of jonquil, 6 of mignonette, 3 of heliotrope blossoms, 3 of cassia blossoms, and 2 of ground caliatourwood. Digest for 3 days, strain and filter.

Rose Vinegar. Digest in 3 parts of pure white vinegar 1 part of red roses and 1 of white. Let the whole stand for 6 days, then press out, strain and filter.

Toilette Vinegar. This toilette article, much in demand in Paris, is composed as follows: Three hundred parts of acetic acid of 6°, 1000 parts of 80 per cent. alcohol, 20 parts each of tincture of tolu and tincture of benzoin, 4 parts each of the oils of lemon, bergamot, Portugal and cedar, 2 parts of oil of limes, 1 part of neroli, 54 parts

of lavender oil, part of oil of rosemary, and part of musk.

To give the preparation an agreeable color add from 1 to 3 parts of tincture of ratanhy.

Vanilla Vinegar. Digest for 4 days in 500 parts of red Burgundy vinegar: Four parts of grated vanilla beans, 8 of pulverized cinnamon, and 2 of pulverized cloves; then press out, strain and filter.

Vinaigre de Beauté. Digest in a flask for 3 days in 500 parts of red Burgundy vinegar: Thirty parts of rose leaves, 16 of daffodil blossoms, 8 of jasmine blossoms, 3 of jonquils, and 2 each of marjoram and common balm leaves cut up; press out and strain the fluid.

Vinaigre des Dames. Digest for 3 days with frequent shaking: Three hundred parts of red wine vinegar, 50 parts of rose leaves, 18 parts each of blossoms of jasmine and carnation pinks, 9 parts each of ground rosewood and sandal wood, and 3 parts each of quassia wood and sassafras wood cut up in pieces; then press out the liquid, strain through a cloth and finally filter through blotting paper.

Vinaigre Aromatique de J. V. Bully. This toilet article is much in demand. It is composed of 30 parts each of oil of bergamot and oil of lemon rind, 12 parts of Portugal oil, 25 parts of oil of rosemary, 4 parts each of lavender oil and neroli, 50 parts of spirit of balm, and 1000 parts of alcohol. Let the mixture stand for 24 hours, shaking it frequently, and then add 60 parts each of tinctures of benzoin, tolu, and storax, and 100 parts of spirit of carnation pinks. Shake again, and after 24 hours add 2000 parts of distilled vinegar, and finally after letting it stand for 12 hours compound the mixture with 90 parts of radical vinegar.

Vinaigre d'Hébé (to Remove Freckles). Six thousand five hundred parts of vinegar, 1350 of lemons cut up in small pieces, 850 of alcohol of 85° Tralles, 225 of oil of lavender, 5 of rose oil, 60 of cedar oil, and 850 of water. Let the mixture stand for 3 days exposed to the sun, and then filter.

Apply the fluid to the skin by means of a sponge before retiring at night and let it dry. Wash the next morning with cold water.

Cucumber Essence is much used in cosmetics intended for beautifying the complexion. To prevent the juice from spoiling or becoming rancid when mixed with fat, mix the fresh juice with an equal volume of 90 per cent. alcohol, and distil off the latter. If not suthciently perfumed add fresh juice and distil.

Cucumber Milk is prepared by mak ing an emulsion from 8 parts of sweet almonds, 20 parts of fresh cucumber juice previously boiled, and of Castile soap dissolved in 6 of cucumber essence, and finally adding of tincture of benzoin.

Lily Essence. Mix 250 parts of extract of tuberoses, 33 parts of extract of jasmine, 661 parts of extract of orange blossoms, 100 parts of vanilla extract, 125 parts each of the extracts of acacia and rose, and a trace of ethereal oil of bitter almonds. The mixture must at least stand for 1 month before it is fit for sale.

Narval Bouquet. Two hundred and fifty parts each of rose essence, extract of sandal wood, patchouli essence, and verbena essence.

Moss-rose Essence. One thousand parts of alcoholic extract of French rose-pomade, 500 parts of triple spirit of rose, 500 parts of alcoholic extract of orange blossom pomade, 250 parts of extract of ambergris, and 125 parts of extract of musk.

The extract from pomades is obtained in the following manner: Five hundred parts of pomade are cut up in small pieces and placed in a capacious flask, together with 575 parts of alcohol. The flask is then hermetically closed and placed in a water-bath until the pomade is melted, when it is converted into a fine-grained mass by shaking. The mixture is allowed to stand for a few days, being occasionally shaken, and the supernatant fluid is then drawn off. By repeating this operation 2 or 3 times a weaker extract is obtained suitable for cheap perfumeries.

Odeur Fin National. Put grain of musk into a flask, pour 6 fluid ounces of 85 to 90 per cent. alcohol over it, close the flask, shake it several times, and let it stand for 24 hours; then add 5 drops of rose oil, 50 grains each of the oils of bergamot and cloves, 1 fluid

paper.

A few drops of this mixture imparts an agreeable and lasting perfume to a handkerchief.

Tea-rose Essence. Alcoholic extract of French rose pomade, triple spirit of rose, and extract of rose geranium of each 50 parts, extract of sandal wood 25 parts, extract of neroli and extract of orris root of each 12 parts.

Violette de Bois. Essence of violets 500 parts, essence of acacia, essence of rose pomade, and extract of iris root of each 100 parts, and oil of bitter almonds a trace.

White Rose Essence. Alcoholic extract of French rose pomade, triple spirit of roses, and spirit of violets of each 100 parts, extract of jasmine 50 parts, extract of patchouli 25 parts.

HAIR OILS. Flower Oil. Sesame oil 400 parts, geranium oil 400 parts, oils of lavender and bergamot of each 100 parts, "petit-grain oil" 50 parts, and angelica oil a trace.

Good and Cheap Hair Oil. By reason of competition in trade the price of hair oil has been so much reduced that in place of good olive oil cheaper oils, as sesame oil, refined cotton-seed oil, etc., belonging to the half-drying oils, are perfumed, colored, and sold as good hair oil.

Rape-seed oil is a good fat oil and, when freshly pressed and chemically pure, gives a much better and much cheaper oil to the manufacturer than the above oils, and may be still further improved by compounding it with 10 per cent. of castor oil.

Rape-seed oil is refined as follows: Pour 10,000 parts of crude rape-seed oil, freshly pressed, into a capacious flask, and add 4 parts of camphor and 40 parts of oil of cloves previously dissolved in 200 parts of strong alcohol. Mix by shaking the flask vigorously, and then add 900 parts of solution of permanganate of potassium obtained by dissolving 50 parts of the permanganate in 1000 of water. The whole is then thoroughly mixed and placed aside for a few days until the brown color of the

600 parts of diluted hydrochloric acid containing 12.5 per cent. of the acid. The mixture is allowed to stand, being frequently shaken, until the oil floats nearly clear upon the aqueous fluid, when it is poured off and filtered through paper. During all the operation the flask must be kept closed.

A good hair oil is now prepared as follows: Color 500 parts of refined rapeseed oil red with alkanet, add 50 parts of castor oil, and perfume with 4 parts of oil of bergamot, 2 parts of oil of balm, and 1 part of essence of mirbane (nitro-benzole).

II. Mix 90 parts of fresh olive oil with 3 of sweet-scented oil, and, if desired, color red with alkanet.

Another Receipt. Bruise 250 parts of fresh southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum), pour 750 parts of olive oil and 250 parts of white wine over it, boil the whole, and press out the liquid through a linen cloth. Repeat this 3 times, but every time with fresh southernwood, and add, during the last operation, 60 parts of bear's grease. This oil is claimed to be excellent for producing new hair upon bald heads.

Hamilton's Hair Oil. Pour 500 parts of fine olive oil into a glass, and add 84 parts of alkanet. When the fluid has assumed a fine dark red color, pour off the clear oil or filter through filtering paper, and add any ethereal oil, as the oil of jasmine, cloves, cinnamon, etc.

Huile antique à la Bergamotte. Mix 500 parts of pure oil of almonds or filberts with 60 parts of oil of bergamot, and let the mixture digest in the sun for 14 days, and put up in bottles.

Huile antique à l'Héliotrope. Put 4 parts of the finest oil of almonds and a like quantity of heliotrope blossoms into a glass retort, place it in a sandbath and distil at a moderate heat. Place the distillate in a cool place for 8 days, and then bottle the oil.

Huile à l'Heliotrope. The heliotrope blossoms should be picked very carefully and full-blown ones selected. The perfume is extracted by absorption with fat.

The following may be used as a substitute for the natural oil: Fifteen parts of Peruvian balsam are digested for 14 days in 500 parts of good oil, shaking