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WILDNESS OF HIGHLAND SCENERY.

roof, formed a verdant ceiling of foliage. The fire place and chimney were constructed also of poles, protected however from the action of the fire by a coat of clay. I could have easily imagined myself in one of the log houses of a pioneer of our forests, had not the fantastic decorations reminded me that this whole structure was merely intended to realize a poet's dream. It was erected by a neighboring nobleman, who has thus generously contributed to the amusement of the visiters of the scenery of the lake.

The water of Loch Catrine is not so bright and clear as that of several of the American lakes. Lake George is much celebrated for its crystal waters, which are almost as transparent as air itself. It seems as if the voyager upon this lake were suspended in his boat over the rocks and abysses that appear so distinct to the eye. Every movement of the fish may also be plainly discerned by the fisherman, at a great depth, as they play about the hook, or seize the fatal bait. After completing the survey of the island, we gathered a few leaves from "the oak that jutted from the islet rock," before leaving the island, to take with us as relics, as is usually done by all visitants to this spot. The lower branches of the oak have been thus nearly stripped of leaves to supply the port folios of strangers.

From Ellen's Island we sailed several miles to the west end of the lake. On our passage, which was rendered tiresome and laborious to the boatmen by a head wind, we had an opportunity of viewing the picturesque scenery upon the shores. There is but little uniformity in this lake scenery. An ever varying succession of rude forms seems justly to have given to the pass of the Trosacks the celebrity it has acquired, as being "one of the boldest passes of the Grampians, and wildest spots in Scotland."

Loch Catrine is about twelve miles long, and on an average about a mile and a half broad, embosomed between ranges of mountains, whose jutting rocks form many bold

POVERTY OF THE HOVELS OF HIGLANDERS.

345

promontories, and irregular bays. The water is four hundred and ninety feet deep in the deepest place, as the oarsmen informed us, and never freezes in winter. The char acteristic scenery of these Scottish lakes appears to be a rugged wildness of huge mountains, among which a cottage, with a few acres of ground cultivated around it, is occasionally seen. The principal beauty to the eye of an English tourist, consists in the native wildness of flood and mountain, where

"O'er rocks piled on rocks, the eagle

Flaps his resounding wings athwart the sky."

The boatmen lashed the portmanteaux, belonging to our party, upon their backs, to transport them about five miles to Inversnaid Mill, upon the shore of Loch Lomond. We passed several streams rushing from the glens of the mountains, and leaping down from rock to rock, until they seemed to rest under a sheet of foam in the tranquil bosom of the lake, that exhibits only a few circling ripples around the spots in which the waters plunge.

Feeling a curiosity to see the interior of some of the poor hovels, built of loose stones and covered with thatch, I entered one of them for this purpose, and asked for a draught of water. The thin, blue, peat smoke was issuing from the front door as I approached it, and from every crevice of the roof. Immediately on entering, I found myself at the heels of a cow, the front door of the hovel opening into her apartment, which served at the same time for the principal way of entrance to the only furnished room of the house. This room seemed to be at once the parlor, kitchen, and bed room. An old lady was busily employed over a peat fire in preparing some wool for combing, for making worsted for plaids, The smoke ascended in eddies to the roof, and partially escaped through a hole in the thatch; for in order to prevent the drops of rain falling perpendicularly, and extinguishing the fire, the hole in

346

FURNITURE OF A HIGHLAND COTTAGE.

the thatch is not made directly above the hearth. The old lady suspended her employment as I entered, and raising herself, viewed me attentively to ascertain my wishes. The color of her countenance was sallow, or rather of a saffron shade, from the effect of the constant smoke, or peet reek, as it is here called. Her small, grey eyes appeared sunk in their sockets, as if they had retreated there from the smoke that must perpetually offend them. She was truly hospitable, offering me some buttermilk instead of water. The sharp acid of the liquid, together with the smoke of the room, caused tears to start from my eyes while the mug was at my lips.

Having bestowed a small gratuity and thanked her for her hospitality, I took a hasty glance at the furniture of her apartment. A sort of bunk, built of boards, served for a bedstead in one corner, and a few earthen dishes, tubs, and pots, with a rudely made case of drawers, seemed to constitute all the worldly gear belonging to the hovel. The floor was of earth or mud, hardened by frequent tread, The inmate, however, appeared cheerful and quite contented with her humble lot. The opposite door of the room led into the sheep fold, where the flock is kept in winter. Most of the hovels we passed are built upon the same plan, having a stable at one end, and the dwelling room opening into it. Healthy little children appeared seated at the doors, eating their bannocks or parrich, made of oatmeal. The former somewhat resembles what is called in New-England, an Indian journey cake, or Johnny cake, and the latter, hasty pudding or mush. Oats, in truth, seem to form the principal constituent of the bread.

Having stopped at a cottage to inquire the way to Inversnaid Mill, where the steamboat upon Loch Lomond touches, in her daily passage up the lake, we were answered by a shake of the head, and some Gaelic words, which gave us to comprehend that the English language was not

COSTUME.-KILT AND BUSKINS.

347

understood. Most of the highlanders whom I have met speak the Gaelic, when conversing with each other, and make use of the English only, when they address those who do not understand their native tongue.

We passed on the road several highlanders, clad in their plaids, kilts, and buskins. Where the kilt is not worn, there still seems to be a prevailing attachment to the plaid, as an article of dress, the coats, vests, or pantaloons being made of it.

Observing a group of boys, in the dress of the country, seated on a bank beneath some trees, by a bribe of a few pence, we prevailed upon one of them to allow us to examine the mode of arranging the kilt. With some diffidence, and after a little shyness, the lad fairly exhibited his garment, remaining "sans cullottes" during this novel sort of investigation. The kilt appears to be only a narrow strip of plaid tied around the waist like a petticoat, and entirely open at the bottom. We all agreed that it must be a marvellously cold dress for winter, affording but little protection by its scanty drapery from the eddying winds.*

We met a party on foot crossing from Loch Lomond to Loch Catrine. Among the number, my little travelling companion recognised a fellow-student of about the same age as himself, who had also a small knapsack upon his

During the late war between England and the United States, the officers of a highland regiment, stationed in Canada, attempted to persist in wearing their kilts-the peculiar dress of the regiment, in that inclement climate, and to brave the severe frosts of a Canadian winter with their legs exposed bare, as usual, to the keen winds. Notwithstanding they had firm hearts, they betrayed at times, when the cold was near zero, involuntary un-soldier like shivering fits, as they attended the ladies on the public promenades, or walked about with legs stiff and purple like those of turkey cocks. After a council of war, it was deemed expedient to abandon winter campaigns in their national costume, and to retreat each to snug winter quarters within a comfortable pair of breeches.

348

EMIGRATION FROM SCOTLAND.

back, and a portfolio under his arm, filled with specimens of various mountain flowers. They seemed mutually delighted at their unexpected meeting, being classmates in the same school. This little fellow had combined a botanising research with a stroll on foot among the highlands. It is truly surprising to meet two lads of fourteen years of age, travelling on foot two hundred miles, without a friend to accompany and protect them. This early inclination to explore the hills and mountains of their native country, will lead them in riper years to roam abroad, beyond the borders of Scotland, to explore other countries, or perhaps to seek their fortunes in foreign lands. It becomes, indeed, a matter of less surprise, that the Scots are a roving people, when one observes at how early an age this propensity for roaming is acquired.

There is a remarkable change of manners and habits observable in travelling only thirty or forty miles northwardly of Edinburgh and Glasgow, where the highlands commence. The wealth and refinements of the capital cities of Scotland do not extend their influence among the cold mountains, whose ungrateful soil barely yields a scanty supply of milk, oat meal and potatoes, to sustain the hardy people who dwell among them. It is from these barren districts that the principal part of the emigration to America takes place. Few are tempted to desert the fertile vales of the Clyde and Forth, or the districts south of them. The emigrants from this quarter are generally poor, and are encumbered with but little "gear" on their arrival in the United States. For this reason, an erroneous opinion prevails in the United States of the poverty of the whole country. This opinion is not warranted by fact. The valleys of the Forth and Clyde rival in fertility most parts of England; and for the amount of population, Scotland must be considered as a country rich in