portion dates from 1212; the rest of the church, including the choir and the crypt, was built 1066-69. The earlier building is in the round style, except where some repairs were executed, as is thought, after a storm in 1434; the latter shows a preponderating mixture of the pointed. "By a singular and theatrical arrangement, arising out of these various increments, its body presents a vast decagonal shell and cupola, the pillars of whose internal angles are prolonged in ribs, which, centering in a summit, meet in one point, and lead by a high and wide flight of steps, rising opposite the entrance, to an altar and oblong choir behind it; whence other steps again ascend to the area between the 2 high square towers, and to the circular east end, belted as well as the cupola by galleries with small arches and pillars, on a panelled balustrade, in the style of the Ch. of the Apostles. The entrance-door, with square lintel, low pediment, and pointed arch, is elegant; and the crypts (well worth visiting) show some remains of handsome mosaics."-Hope. The baptistery is a very elegant building, in the transition style of the decagonal church. It contains a font of porphyry, said to be a gift of Charlemagne. The sacristy, in the pointed style, is apparently of the 14th cent. It contains some painted glass.

Gross St. Martin, on the Rhine, was dedicated 1172, but its lofty tower was not added until the beginning of the 16th. cent. Its site, originally an island in the Rhine, was occupied by an earlier church, which, in 980, Bishop Warin gave to the Scotch Benedictines. The interior was modernised in 1790. In the church is an octagonal font of white marble, a Roman work of the time of the Empire, and having apparently been a labrum of a bath. "St. Martin likewise shows, internally, the Greek distribution."-Hope.

Near St. Gereon's is the Arresthaus, or new prison, built on the radiating panopticon plan.

St. Cunibert, finished in 1248, the year the Dom was begun, but in a style totally different from it, is a remarkable instance of the adherence to

the older style after the pointed style had become prevalent and perfect. The largest tower was burnt in 1376, and rebuilt in 1388, in the pointed style. It fell down in 1830, while undergoing repairs, and destroyed the vaulting of the adjoining parts of the nave and transepts: these have been restored. It contains the oldest painted glass in the country, of most glowing hues, and has an elegant portal.

St. Pantaleon, near the Bonn Rly., is in part the oldest Christian structure in Cologne, since the lower part of the great tower, and the walls connected with it, are probably not later than 980. It was built by Archbishop Bruno, with the materials of the Roman bridge and Castle of Deutz. The greater part of the present ch. is of the year 1622. It is now the Evangelic Garrison church, and its tower supports a telegraph.

St. George, 1060-74. The vaulting is later: the choir is higher than the nave: there is a crypt, and a baptistery of 1200.

The Museum (Trankgasse, No. 7, close to the cathedral; admittance fee 10 S. gr. each person; on Sundays and holidays it is open free from 10 to 12) is chiefly occupied with works of art bequeathed by Prof. Wallraff to his native city, consisting of early specimens of the School of Cologne,* which, however, are unnamed and uncatalogued. Among the more remarkable are the Last Judgment, by Master Stephan (1410) (the angels are painted of the brightest ultra-marine by this master and others of the same school); the Death of the Virgin, by Schoreel; and a Descent from the Cross, by Israel von Mechenen (1488); also a Virgin and Child, and several others, by Master William of Cologne (1380).

These pictures deserve attention as monuments of a school whose very existence was almost unknown till the present cent. We are now aware that, nearly simultaneously with the revival of painting in Italy, there sprang up a race of artists on the banks of the Rhine, and in the Netherlands, who

*See Kugler's Handbook of Painting, ◊ xi.

succeeded in raising art from the degradation into which it had fallen in the hands of the Byzantine painters, to a comparative state of excellence; and maintained that peculiar style which is seen in the greatest perfection in the works of Van Eyck, Hemling, and Schoreel. In order to appreciate thoroughly the works of the early German painters, it is necessary to see the Boisserée Collection, now in the Munich Gallery, which was itself formed at Cologne:

66

Among the pictures by modern artists, observe the Captive Jews at Babylon, by Bendemann, no less remarkable for the simple beauty of the composition, than for the depth and earnestness of feeling it expresses;" the Convent Court, in a snow-storm, by Lessing, is also good.

In the lower story are many Roman antiquities, some of which are curious as having been found in or near Cologne; besides these are several busts and statues, and one specimen of sculpture, distinguished as a work of Grecian art, of great beauty and value-it is the Head of Medusa, resembling the famous "Medusa Rondinini," in the Glyptothek at Munich, but larger, and it is said to be even finer.

Those who take interest in Art will find many private collections of pictures here; the most interesting being those of Messrs. Kerp (Johannes Strasse), Merlo (Unter Fettenhennen), Baumeister, F. Zanoli, &c. &c.; they are, however, for the most part, limited to works of the Old German masters.

The Rathhaus (Town-hall), fronting the Alten Markt and Stadthaus-platz, is a curious building, erected at different periods; the Gothic tower, containing the Archives, in 1414; the marble portal, or double arcade, in the Italian style, in 1571; the ground-floor in the 13th cent. The interior is now closed, but in the Gothic Hansa Saal were held the meetings of that mercantile confederation which at one time carried on the commerce of the world.

In the ancient Kaufhaus or Gürzenich (so called from the person who gave the ground on which it stands), finished in 1474, several Diets of the

Empire were held, and many German Emperors entertained at the hospitable board of the patrician magistrates, in the huge hall which occupies the 1st floor: here the carnival balls are given, and the Art-Union exhibition takes place in July. It has a remarkably fine Gothic fireplace.

The House of the Templars, in the Rheingasse, No. 8, supposed to be of the 12th or 13th cent., was repaired, 1840, and now serves as the Exchange and Chamber of Commerce. The Casino is a handsome building, near the theatre, provided with ball and reading rooms, where newspapers are taken in. The Regierungs Gebäude is also a handsome edifice.

Maria de' Medici died, 1642, in the house, No. 10, Sternengasse; her remains, except the heart, were carried to France. RUBENS was born in the same house, 1577.

Eau de Cologne, so renowned all over the world, is an article of considerable commerce for the city. There are 24 manufacturers, and several who bear the same name; but the original Jean Marie Farina, the rightful heir of the inventor (1670-1680), the best fabricator of Eau de Cologne, is to be found opposite the Jülichs Platz. Zanoli, Hochstrasse, also may be recommended. A box (6 bottles) costs 2 th. 10 S. gr. The value of this manufacture cannot fail to be appreciated on the spot. One of the peculiarities of Cologne, its filthiness, will not long escape the attention, or the nose, of the stranger; it occasioned the following verses of Coleridge :

Ye nymphs, who reign o'er sewers and sinks,
The river Rhine, it is well known,
Doth wash your city of Cologne:-
Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine?
But tell me, nymphs, what power divine

Baedeker, Hochstrasse 134 A, has a good store of guide books, &c.

Physician. Dr. Feist; who speaks English.

rt. Deutz (Hôtel Bellevue, surpasses in excellence all its rivals on the 1. bank), on the rt. bank of the Rhine, connected by the bridge of boats, nearly 1400 ft. long, with Cologne, and strongly fortified as a tête de pont, is a favourite

place of resort in summer evenings. The gardens at the river side afford the amusements of music, dancing, and beer-drinking to the citizens. A large barrack has been constructed here with magazines of artillery. Deutz is said to owe its rise to a castle built here by Constantine the Great. From the extremity of the Bridge, the finest view of Cologne and its ranges of buildings, extending for 3 m. along the opposite bank, is obtained. Plans have been prepared for a new tubular suspension bridge over the Rhine between Cologne and Deutz. It is to rest on piers sunk in the bed of the river, so strong as to resist the floods and ice of winter. The existing boatbridge requires to be opened to let vessels pass, by which passengers and carriages are often delayed 15 or 20 minutes: it is removed in winter.

[An exceedingly interesting excursion may be made from Cologne to the Cistercian Abbey of Altenberg, 14 m. distant, 2 hours' drive, off the post-road to Lennep. The Abbey lies about a mile from the post-house at Strasserhof, to the S. of the road, in the midst of beech forests, buried in the pretty retired valley of the Dhün, and close to the rushing stream. There is no carriage road to it, but a pathway turns off from the road, a little short of Strasserhof, through a glen. The distance is a very long mile, and parts of the way are ankle deep in very wet weather. The church is a most beautiful specimen of Gothic, the choir finished in 1265, the rest in 1379; it is 84 ft. high, and of graceful proportions. The windows contain some beautiful painted glass; and remains of frescoes may be traced on its walls. The high altar, richly ornamented with carvings, the pulpit, and numerous curious monuments of abbots and monks, knights and noble ladies, are in a tolerably perfect state. Among them are several of the Counts of Altena, and the Counts and Dukes of Berg, an ancient family allied to the reigning house of Brandenburg. has been supposed that this church was designed by the architect of Cologne cathedral; but the simplicity and solidity of the columns seem to indicate an artist of an earlier style. Observe

It

the free and natural foliage of the capitals; it is well executed, and with great taste. The choir windows are narrow, and tall out of all proportion; hidden on the outside by the projecting buttresses, and rather poor when seen within. The conventual buildings, from which the monks were turned out only about 1799, were built about 1214: they were converted into a manufactory of Prussian blue, and were destroyed in 1815 by a fire which began in them, and reduced part of the church to a state of impending ruin. In 1836 the King of Prussia (then Crown Prince) undertook its restoration. This exquisite relic of Gothic architecture has thus been saved, though at a great cost, from the destruction which was imminent. A dinner, with trout from the Dhüm, may be had at the Inn near Strasserhof, or in the Abbey buildings.]

Railroads-to Aix-la-Chapelle (Rte. 36);-express train to Paris once a-day, in 15 hours;-to Bonn (Rte. 37);-to Düsseldorf (Rte. 66);—to Minden and Berlin on the rt. bank of the Rhine at Deutz.

Steamers several times a-day, up the Rhine to Coblenz (Rte. 37), and down to Nijmegen and Arnhem (Rte. 34), and thence to Rotterdam (Rte. 12).

Schnellposts ($50) morning and evening to Coblenz (Rte. 37); to Cassel (2); to Siegen (Rte. 45 a); to Prüm and Treves; to Cleves, in 13 h.; and Nijmegen (Rte. 35).

ROUTE 36 A.

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO DÜSSELDORF, TO MINDEN, HANOVER, AND BERLIN.

Aix-la-Chapelle to Düsseldorf, by Gladbach and Neuss. Rail. 114 Germ. m. 4 trains daily, in 24 to 3 hrs.

Travellers bound to Hanover, Berlin, or N. Germany, from England or Belgium, should proceed direct from Aix to Ruhrort by this railway. They will save time and expense by taking places from Ostend only to Aix-la-Chapelle, instead

7.1 Wickrath Stat. 7.6 Rheydt Stat.

8.1 Gladbach Junction Stat. 1. A branch railway diverges to Crefeld, and to the Rhine by Herdingen and Homberg, opposite Ruhrort, whither a steamer plies across the river (Rte. 34). From Ruhrort runs a short branch railway to Oberhausen Stat., on the Cologne, Hanover, and Berlin Railway.

9.1 Kleinenbroich Stat. Not far from this, rt., stands the Schloss Dyck, residence of the family of Salm-Dyck, which once bore the title Altgraf, the principality was mediatised in the late war. The Castle is modernised, and offers little for observation, but the gardens are famous for a curious and rare collection of succulent plants.

10.4 Neuss Stat. (Rte. 35). Rhine is crossed by a flying bridge. 11.3 Düsseldorf Stat. (Rte. 34.)

ROUTE 37.
THE RHINE (C).

FROM COLOGNE TO COBLENZ.

The

rt. denotes the right, 1. the left bank of the Rhine, according as they would

"But Thou, exulting and abounding river! Making thy waves a blessing as they flow Through banks whose beauty would endure for ever,

Could man but leave thy bright creation so, Nor its fair promise from the surface mow With the sharp scythe of conflict, then to

see

Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know Earth pav'd like Heaven; and to seem such

to me,

To the above accurate description of the poet is added another in prose, from the pen of a German, because it serves to illustrate the feelings of pride and almost veneration with which the Rhine is regarded in Germany; it is indeed looked upon as the national river. "There are rivers whose course is

should Lethe be.

'Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise:

More mighty spots may rise-more glaring shine,

But none unite in one attaching maze

greater, but none which unites almost everything that can render an earthly object magnificent and charming in the same degree as the Rhine. As it flows down from the distant ridges of the Alps, through fertile regions, into the open sea, so it comes down from remote antiquity, associated in every age with momentous events in the history of the neighbouring nations. A river which presents so many historical recollections of Roman conquests and defeats, of the chivalric exploits in the feudal periods, of the wars and negotiations of modern times, of the coronations of emperors, whose bones repose by its side; on whose borders stand the two grandest monuments of the noble architecture of the middle ages; whose banks present rocks, thick forests, fertile plains; vineevery variety of wild and picturesque yards, sometimes gently sloping, sometimes perched among lofty crags, where industry has won a domain among the fortresses of nature; whose banks are ornamented with populous cities, flourishing towns and villages, castles and ruins, with which a thousand legends are connected, with beautiful and romantic roads, and salutary offer choice fish, as its banks offer the mineral springs; a river whose waters choicest wines; which, in its course of 900 miles, affords 630 miles of uninter

sea, and enables the inhabitants of its banks to exchange the rich and various products of its shores; whose cities, famous for commerce, science, and works of strength, which furnish protection to Germany, are also famous as the scats of Roman colonies and of ecclesiastical councils, and are associated with many of the most important events recorded in the history of mankind;-such a river it is not surprising that the Germans regard with a kind