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NOTES ON LISBON.
they certainly lose the power of communicating its influence to others. The Portuguese
women are by no means remarkable for per-, THE PORTUGUESE.
sonal cleanliness, and their tempers are very
bad: they are very ignorant, and very supersti. PERHAPS when taken generally, no race of tious, and consequently cannot make good men on earth (calling themselves civilized) domestic companions. They are so enslaved are more disgustingly ugly than the men of by a passion for dress, that many of very, Lisbon. Short of stature, thick-set, squalid confined incomes literally deprive themselves complexions, and eternally enveloped in their and families of every domestic comfort, that capolas (cloaks), they stalk along their filthy they may, when they go abroad to pay a streets, at once an epitome of pride, laziness, visit, to the theatres, or to mass on particular and deformity; the whole appearance gene- Saint's days, appear adorned with laces and rally crowned with a tremendous cocked hat. jewels. They are remarkably careful in the This latter, indeed, is an appendage without preservation of their clothes ; to that end, which no Portuguese (in Lisbon), from the the moment they return from church, or a prince to the barber, the footman, the postil. walk, &c., they take off their finery, and lion, and the beggar, can possibly be induced very often the chemise and capota are the to appear abroad ; and many' wear them only articles of dress retained. Their dress constantly in their houses, as also their suits often descend with religious awe to the, capotas. Their pride can only be equalled third generation. The greater number apby their meanness ; too self-conceited to propriate a particular suit to a particular day, work, even those, who call themselves gen- which suit consequently sees the light but llemen, do not blush to beg in the streets, once a year. If a female in Lisbon has not and infest the coffee-houses, and every place an extensive wardrobe, but perhaps only one, of public resort, with their fawning, detest. grand dress, and does not care to be always. able whine of poverty, though even then they seen in the same, she will change occasion scarcely ever condescend to beg in their own ally with some female friend (equally cirnames, but ask all for the love of God, or cumstanced) one day, with a second another some Saint. Say to a beggar in Lisbon, day, and so on, ringing the changes through “Here, carry this small parcel for me into half a dozen, or more, according to the ex. the next street, and I will pay you for so tent of her acquaintance. Thus a woman, doing," and in all probability he would that may be supposed to have a variety of abuse you, and tell you he was a Portuguese elegant dresses, has in fact but one, which gentleman, and not a gallego.
may be in their company, though not on The women of Lisbon may be said to be the back of its owner. handsome. Their hair is in general very The Portuguese, in many of their habits, fine, dark, and abundant, and they take and customs, retain an opposition to every great care of it; their eyes, as beautiful as other nation in Europe. Every manual any in the world, black, or very dark brown, operation they perform backwards (relatively, are expressive and melting. They equal speaking); we stir our tea from us, with the Spain in the elegance of an exquisitely fine sun; they, towards themselves, against the formed leg, ancle, and foot, of which they sun : their carpenters saw from themselves, are perfectly sensible, for their chief pride the back of the saw towards the body : their and ornament in dress seem to be directed to farriers seldom, or rather never, unless by, the stocking, and satin slipper. Their hands desire, bleed horses in the neck, but on the and arms are, in general, very fine ; the inner part of the thigh ; and they shoe former delicate and tapering; the latter, frem them in a very different posture to what we the shoulder to the elbow, partake, perhaps, do, and it always takes two men to put on rather too much of the general character of one shoe, though their horses are remarkably their person, which, for their height, inclines quiet. Corn is trod out by oxen, a custom to the very limits of en bon point. As a which, though practised in some countries, drawback, however, to so many charms, the is absolutely antediluvian. Their paviors Portuguese women are old at thirty; and use the paving mallet the very reverse to us, before an English woman is in her prime of by swinging it on the right side, and behind heauty, they are gone by, and no more re- them, before they allow it to fall on the part membered : and certainly an old Portuguese to be rammed down. I could produce inwoman is any thing but an object of admira- stances without number, in every branch of tion. Their complexions may at all times trade, of this perverseness, proving how back. be called sallow, though when young the ward they are in improvement, but will sum clearness of the skin, and the glow of health up the whole in stating what I saw one make it appear far from unpleasing ; but in morning, namely, some scavengers actually age it becomes actual parchment: in a word, employed sweeping a very steep street up a Portuguese woman, from fifteen to twenty- kill, and against the wind, in very dusty five, is a lovely object ; but after that, how. weather. Obstipacy and perverseness perever love may hold his sway in their bosoms, sonified could never beat this. Their fathery
and grandfathers may have done so before ing out, " Aqui del Rei," (here, in the them, but were not the less fools on that King's name). It is thus their sole duty to
preserve public tranquillity, and to watch
over individual security, as also to appreWATCHING THE STREETS.
hend all offenders against the laws; it is,
likewise, their duty to tum every body oad The watching the streets of Lisbon is one of the coffee-houses and public-houses at of the branches of the Police of the city, and 10 o'clock at night (when they are obliged is most excellent for such a Government as to shut up.) They always attend in the that of Portugal, but would not be submitted theatres, in the churches (on Saint-days, or to by a people so jealous of every appearance on any occasion when they may collect a of a military system as the English. It, greater number than usual)-in short, they however, deserves mention.
are every where. There are also a few troops The Portuguese absolutely think it im- of Horse Police, similar to our Life Guards, possible that a man should be able to keep who also constantly patrol the streets in awake three hundred and sixty-five nights in pairs. the year, during all weathers, watch over their personal safety, and their property ;
FISH MARXET AT LISBON. and, from this incredulity, they refuse to admit, or even to admire, our mode of watch. It consists of a few (say a dozen) opet ing our cities and towns; they, therefore, stalls by the side of the river, though on a have established a perpetual military watch, raised pavement, with a wall of about three by day and night, the duties of which are feet round it. These occupy two sides of a performed by a regiment of foot soldiers, square on the east and south, and on them composed of the finest young men through is the fish, which, though as fine as any in out the kingdom : they are mostly the sons Europe, is the most disgusting sight imaginof respectable farmers, and are selected for able, as it is never cleaned, but rather aptheir good conduct; and they think it an pears to be purposely rolled in slime and honour to be admitted into this regiment, filth ; and in that state you must purchase which is better clothed, and better paid, than it, and send it home, or go without. But any one in the service. The uniform is this is not the worst part of the concern ; blue and yellow, and they always appear for, at the back of that part of the market extremely clean and neat. The officers are which takes up the east side, at no greater mostly from the first families, and those of distance than the thickness of the parapet the higher rank are noblemen. This regi- wall (say two feet), lies a broad, but very ment is also the guards of Lisbon, as it is shallow, paved ditch, intended to carry off the only one that attends on the Royal the rain from the streets in the vicinity. This Family. The men are mostly superior to is open, not only to chance view, but you the generality of the people, there being few cannot avoid seeing it ; and it is never for of them but what can read and write ; they three minutes together unoccupied by the are quiet, and very mild and civil in the gallegos, fishermen, beggars, &c. Now, as discharge of their duty, seldom abusing their it never rains in Lisbon in summer, and power, which is very great.
consequently this place is never cleansed, These men are stationed by detachments some idea may be formed of the disgusting of from twelve to fifty men, or, perhaps, a sight and horrid stench. company, in guard-houses in different parts In vain would you seek a remedy by going of the city, from which they go in pairs, to a fishmonger's shop; they have no such armed with a musket, bayonet, and sword, and thing in Lisbon, nor do they know what it perambulate the streets, &c., that lie within means ; and such a sight as Grove's, at the district attached to their guard-house. Charing Cross, would, if transported to They are never stationary, but always walk. Lisbon, attract all Portugal to view it, ing about, day and night, and are relieved through curiosity and wonder. every two hours. As they have no fixed As, when divested of its filth, the fish is station (there being neither watch-boxes nor equal to any in the world, it might, perhaps, sentry-boxes, except at the door of each answer the speculation of establishing a fishguard-house), so you never know but you monger here, if the Government would allou have a couple of young, strong, active, and it, which is doubtful. well-armed soldiers at your elbow; and it is Among others that are very fine, may be astonishing to observe, any disturbance mentioned the soles, white salmon, John takes place, which seldom happens, how the Dory, tainha, or white mullet, the pargo, disputants will be surrounded instantaneous. and, to those who can surmount prejudice, ly, as if by magic, by eight or a dozen of the chog; the prawns are uncommonly large these men, who soon restore order, for the and fine flavoured, and the eels are not bad ;: people stand in great awe of them. You the oysters, however, are abominable. But can, at any moment of the day or night, the staple is the sardinha (a large species of collect a strong guard around you, hy shout. sprat), it is rich and exquisite, and consti.
tútes the chief food, of not only the poorer, now enjoy the use of, but from the interpo... but of all classes of people, being also very sition of the gentleman above mentioned, or cheap.
from their own resolution, which the Portu. The clergy of Lisbon (if I recollect right, guese faculty call English obstinacy. it is an exclusive grant to one convent, all
Nor is their skill in the other branches of the members of which are, and must be, of their profession superior to that in surgery. noble families) claim every tenth fish that is They have no idea of difference of constitubrought to market ; and no fisherman dares tion in individuals, either from habit or cli. sell a single fish from his boat, before he has mate. Old and young, robust and delicate, brought them to market and paid his tithe, natives of warm climates, and those from the which is collected in a most unjust and arbis frozen regions of the north, are all treated trary manner. A man is appointed by these alike. Balsams and glysters form the whole priests, who attends as the boats arrive, the extent of their practice, and are alike preowners of which are obliged to count all their scribed in fevers, colds, gout, rheumatism, fish out before him, one by one ; and while debility, repletion, and all the opposites that they are so doing, he selecis, at his pleasure, “flesh is heir to.' every fine fish he sees (by means of a sharp So far are their medical men from possess. hook which he holds for that purpose): he ing that humanity which characterizes the does not take every tenth fish promiscuously, profession in England, that they would allow but thus selects the best tenth of the whole the whole human race to perish before they cargo. As an amazing quantity of fish is would put themselves to the least inconve-, brought to market, this tenth (which, after nience. As a proof of this, a very particular serving themselves, is retailed to hawkers friend of mine, whose son, a beautiful child and the stalls) must produce an immense about three years old, was dangerously ill, revenue to the convent, or convents. When applied personally to four of the first reputed , this tithe is thus selected, the poor fisherman, professional men in the city ; but it being in in return, receives a printed permit to dispose the middle of the day (July 31), they all of the remainder ; and the hawkers, who refused to attend till the evening, alleging carry fish in baskets through the city, are that the weather was too hot to stir out till obliged to purchase, daily, a permit for so then, doing.
I have been told, and I believe it, that on one occasion a surgeon was requested to visit, a man who had been stabbed through the
body, but refused for a similar reason ; say: The Portuguese surgeons are considered ing, however, that if the wounded man would to rank very low, when compared with those come to him, he would examine him. The of other nations ; but they cannot be ex- man died before he could procure surgical, pected to excel in so difficult an art, while aid.Atheneum. they are deprived of the means of acquirement-hospitals, schools for anatomy, and dissections, being unknown in the country. One day, a very fine girl of eight years of
THE OLD GENTLEMAN. age, coming from school, fell and broke her arm : an English surgeon was immediately sent for, but he being unfortunately from home, a Portuguese one was called in, who, to make assurance trebly sure, called in two others. This happy trio, perceiving that, for days, for weeks, for months, for years, from the fall, the flesh was turned blackish, did I labour and toil in the pursuit of one determined that a mortification had already bewildering, engrossing, overwhelming obtaken place in less than an hour, on a ject. Sleep was a stranger to my eyelids ; healthy young subject !), and, without any and night after night was passed in undivided, further ceremony, cut off the poor child's unmitigated application to the studies, by arm. The English surgeon, who had been which I hoped (vainly indeed) to attain the sent for in the first instance, now attended, much desired end ; yet all through this long but only in time to lament his being from and painful period of my existence, lest those home when the accident happened ; as he who were my most intimate friends, and from assured me there was not the least occasion whom, except upon this point, I had no con. for amputation, the fracture and bruise being cealment, should discover, by some incautious no more than is usual in such accidents. word, or some unguarded expression, the Though I have here only cited one case, yet tendency of my pursuits, or the character of the practice is invariably the same. Off'with my research. the limb, in all fractures, is, with them, what It was in the midst of this infatuation, that bleeding and hot water were with Dr. Şan-' one evening in summer, when every body grado, a universal cure. I know several per- was out of town, and not more than eight sons who would have lost a limb, which they hundred thousand nobodies were left in it, I
BY THEODORE HOOK.
had been endeavouring to walk off a little of for some reason the object of your pursuit. I my anxiety by a tour of the outer circle in the am near home, if you have any communicaRegent's-park, and, hearing a footstep close tion to make, or desire any information from, behind me, turned round and beheld a vener- me, I would beg you to speak now. able looking old gentleman, dressed entirely “You are perfectly right, Sir," said the in green, with a green cravat tied round his old gentleman, “ I do wish to speak to you ;neck, and wearing a low-crowned hat upon and you, although perhaps not at this mohis head, from under which his silver hair ment aware of it, are equally desirous of flowed loosely over his shoulders. He seemed speaking to me. You are now going into to have his eyes fixed on me when for a mo- your lodgings in Marlborough-street, and as ment I looked round at him; and he slack. soon as you shall have divested yourself of ened his pace (however much he had pre- your coat, and enveloped yourself in that viously quickened it to reach his then position blue silk gown which you ordinarily wear, relative to me), so as to keep nearly at the and have taken off your boots, and put your same distance from me as he was when I first feet into those morocco slippers which were noticed him.
made for you last March by Meyer and Nothing is more worrying to a man, or to Miller, you purpose drinking some of the one so strangely excited as I then was, more claret which you bought last Christmas of irritating, than the constant pat, pat, of foota Henderson and Son, of Davies-street, Berke steps following him. After I had proceeded ley-square, first mixing it with water; and at my usual pace for about ten minutes, and immediately after you will apply yourself to still found the old gentleman behind me, I the useless and unprofitable studies which reduced my rate of going, in order to allow have occupied you during the last five or six my annoyance to pass me. Not he; he years." equally reduced his rate of going.
“Sir,” said I, trembling at what I heard, Thus vexed, and putting faith in inferior “ how or by what means have you becomes age and superior strength, I proceeded more possessed of these particulars, I rapidly ; still the old gentleman was close “No matter,” interrupted my friend ; “ if upon me; until before I reached the gates of you are disposed to indulge me with your Park-crescent, leading to Portland-place, I society for an hour or so, and bestow upon me had almost broken into a canter, with as little a bottle of the wine in question, I will exm success as attended my other evolutions. I plain myself. There, Sir,” continued he, therefore resumed my original step, and you need not hesitate ; I see you have al. thinking to effect by stratagem what force ready made up your mind to offer me the could not accomplish, I turned abruptly out rights of hospitality; and since I know the of Portland-place into Duchess-street--the old ladies of your house are advocates for old gentleman was at my heels: I passed early hours and quiet visitors, I will conform the chapel into Portland-street--for a mo. in all respects to their wishes, and your conment I lost sight of him; but before I had venience." reached the corner of Margaret-street, there Most true, indeed, was it, that I had dehe was again. At that time I occupied termined, coute qui coute, to give my new-old lodgings in the house of two maiden sisters friend an invitation and a bottle of wine ; and in Great Marlborough-street, and considering before he had concluded his observations we that the police-office in that neighbourhood were at the door of my house, and in a few. would render me any aid I might require to minutes more, although my servant was abrid myself of my new acquaintance, should sent without leave, we were seated at a table. he prove troublesome, I determined to run on which forth with were placed the desired for my own port at all events.
refreshments. I crossed Oxford-street, and in order to My friend, who continued to evince the give myself another chance of escape, darted most perfect knowledge of all my private down Blenheim-steps and along the street of concerns, and all my most intimate conthat name; but the old man's descent was as nexions, became evidently exhilarated by the rapid as mine; and happening, as I passed claret ; and in the course of one of the most the museum and dissecting rooms of the agreeable conversations I had ever particia eminent anatomist Brookes, to turn my head, pated, he related numerous anecdotes of the my surprise was more than ever excited by highest personages in the country, with all of seeing my venerable friend actually dancing whom he seemed perfectly intimate. His in a state of ecstasy along the side of the manner of telling his stories afforded internal dead wall which encloses so many subjects evidence of their accuracy, and was so capti. for contemplation. At this moment I re- vating, that I thought him, without excepsolved to stop and accost him, rather than tin, the pleasantest old gentleman I had ever make the doorway of my own residence the encountered. arena of a discussion.
It was now getting dark, the windows of “Sir," said I, turning short round, “you, my drawing-room open, the sashes up, and will forgive my addressing you, but it is im. the watchman's cry of past " ten o'clock," possible for me to affect ignorance that I am was the first announcement to me of the rapid.
flight of time in the agreeable society of my ing the power of knowing the thoughts of friend.
others, you are never to reveal the fact that “I must be going," said he ; " I must you actually do possess such a power; the just look in at Brooks's."
inoment you admit yourself master of this “ What, Sir," said I, recollecting his gro- supernatural faculty, you lose it.” tesque dance under the wall in Blenheim. “Agreed, Sir," said I; “but are these all street, over the way ?”
the conditions ?” “ All," said my friend. “ No," replied he,“ in St. James's. To-morrow morning, when you awake, the
power will be your own; and so, Sir, I wish “ Have another bottle of claret," said I, you a very good night.” 66 and a devil"
“ But, Sir," said I, anxious to be better At this word my friend appeared seriously assured of the speedy fulfilment of the wish angry, and I heard him mutter the word of my heart (for such indeed it was), “may “cannibalism.” It was then quite dark, and I have the honour of knowing your name and as I looked at his faee, I could discern no address.” features, but only two brilliant orbs of bright * Ha, ha, ha!” said the old gentleman : fire glittering like stars; those were his eyes, my naine and address. Ha, lia, ha !-- my the light from which was reflected on his name is pretty familiar to you, young gentlehigh cheek bones and the sides of his nose, man; and as for my address, I dare say you leaving all the rest of his face nearly black. will find your way to me, some day or another, It was then I first heard a thumping against and so once more good night.” the back of his chair, like a gentleman Saying which he descended the stairs and switching his cane;" I began to wish he quitted the house, leaving me to surmise who
my extraordinary visitor could be; I never “ Sir,” said the old gentleman, “ any dis- knew ; but I recollect, that after he was gone, guise with me is useless; I must take my I heard one of the old ladies scolding a leave; but you must not imagine that this servant girl for wasting so many matches in visit was unpremeditated, or that our meeting lighting the candles, and making such a was accidental : you last night, perhaps un- terrible smell of brimstone in the house. consciously, invoked my aid in the pursuit to I was now all anxiety to get to bed, not which you have so long devoted yourself. because I was sleepy, but because it seemed The desire of your heart is known to me; to me as if going to bed would bring me and I know that the instant I leave you, you nearer to the time of getting up, when I will return to your fascinating study, vainly should be master of the miraculous power to seek that which you so constantly languish which had been promised me: I rang the to possess."
bell—my servant was still out-it was un. * I desire ," I was going to say,
usual for him to be absent at so late an hour. thing ;” but the pale fire of his dreadful eyes I waited until the clock struck eleven, but he turned suddenly to a blood-red colour, and came not; and resolving to reprimand him in glistened even more brightly than before, the morning, I retired to rest. while the thumping against the back of his Contrary to my expectation, and, as it chair was louder than ever.
seemed to me, the ordinary course of nature, “ You desire, young gentleman," said my considering the excitement under which I was visitor, " to know the thoughts of others, and labouring, I had scarcely laid my head on my thirst after the power of foreseeing events pillow before I dropped into a profound slumthat are to happen : do you not ?"
ber, from which I was only aroused by my serI confess, Sir," said I, convinced by the vant's entrance to my room. The instant I question, and by what had already passed, awoke I sat up in bed, and began to reflect that he, whoever he was, himself possessed on what had passed, and for a moment to the faculty he spoke of_" I confess, that for doubt whether it had not been all a dream. such a power I have prayed, and studied, and However it was day-light; the period had laboured, and
arrived when the proof of my newly acquired “ You shall possess it,” interrupted my power might be made. friend. “ Who I am, or what, matters little; " Barton,” said I to my man, “ why were the power you seek is wholly in my gift. you not at home last night ?"
You last night, as I have just said, invoked “ I had to wait, Sir, nearly three hours,” me you shall have it upon two conditions.” he replied, “ for an answer to the letter which "Name them, Sir," said I.
you sent to Major Sheringham.” « The first is, that however well you know “ That is not true," said I ; and to my what is to happen to others, you must remain infinite surprise, I appeared to recollect a in ignorance about yourself, except when series of occurrences of which I never had connected with them."
previously heard ; “you went to see your “ To that,” said I, “I will readily sweetheart, Betsy Collyer, at Camberwell, agree."
and took her to a tea garden, and gave her “ The other is, that whatever may be the cakes and cider, and saw her hoine again : conduct you adopt in consequence of possess- you mean to do exactly the same thing on