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and such like curiosities. Wee took boat here and cros'd this hauen, three miles, to Bayæ, passing by the ruens of Caligula's bridge, which hee made crose this arme of the sea. As soon as wee landed wee went in to the sepulchre of Agrippine, under ground; the roof wrought with diuers figures very neatly. Nigh to this is a noble castle, built by Charles the fift; Cæsar's hous, some ruines of which are yet standing ; Marius his hous; and part of the temple of Hercules, though fallen into the sea, are uisible from hence. Wee saw so many ruins that I haue almost forgot them; the most considerable are Nero's piscina admirabilis, the plaister more durable then stone, made, as they say, with the whites of egges; Nero's judgement hall and his hundred chambers, or prison, under ground; an old buriing place where they set up there urnes. From hence wee went into the Elisean fieldes, neare to which wee saw the Dead Sea and the place where Caron ferried ouer. After this wee saw the temple of Venus, another place which they called the termes 8 of Trulli. After this Cicero's baths, uery medicinall, as they report; by which are the stones of Tritola, so hot that to one standing upright they are insufferable. I crept into them a uery great way, being almost melted. Within halfe a yard of the bottom the earth is cold, but higher intolerably hot. Here they haue a naturall cure for the morbus Neapolitanus. At the bottom of the sea the sand is so hot that I could not indure it in my hand though the water bee cold. From hence wee went to the lake Avernus, the vapour of which was formerly so poisonous as to kill the birds fliing ouer it. Upon the banks of it stands the temple of Apollo. Wee went into Sibilla Cumæa's grot, which is five miles long, reaching from the lake Avernus to Cuma. On the right hand wee descended by a narrow passage into her chamber wrought in the sides with mosaique work; wee saw her bath too, and returned the same way out again. Wee passed by the lake of Lucrino, so famous in former time, now almost stopt up by the new mountain, which rose here in the memory of some of the fathers of those that are now liuing at Puzzuolo. Tis a vast mountain for so young an one, and wee had not time to goe up it, to see the riuer which 8 Therme, baths.
9 Famous for its delicious oysters.
they say runs at the top. Nigh it is the mountain Gauro, which produceth the brave Falerne wine, which will keep an hundred yeares. Wee came home by the iland Nisida, some two miles in compasse, belonging to one gentleman, who in it keeps all creatures tame by force, haueing no way to get from him. In sight of Caprea, once the delight of Tiberius, and so under the mountain Pausilippo again, with torches in our hands, it being night before wee could reach it, which wee passed safely; the better by reason that the holy virgin is gouuernesse of this cauerne, and hath a chappell dedicated to her in the middle of it. By this time you must coniecture wee had a good stomach to our supper, which wee made of pigeons, the best heare without controuersy in the world, as big as pullets. Their sauce onely lemons, which are somewhat remarkable by reason they are a sort which have no kernells in them. I could wish there were more roome to show how much I haue an ambition to sarue you.
Yours for ever, Naples, December, 16, 1664.
Mr. Edward Browne to Mr. Craven.
[Ms. SLOAN. 1868.]
Wee went from Rome to Veletri, twenty miles; from thence to Sermoneta; to Piperno; to Terracina, where are ancient walls, and an inscription on a stone concerning the draining of the fennes by Theodoric, king of the Goths, a pillar of Traian, two lyons at the gates; to Fundi, the first citty of the kingdome of Naples, where wee sawe hunting of buffalos, and a buffalo drawing of a bull that would not otherwise go forward; by Aquino to Mola and Gaieta, seated three sides in the sea; to Garigliano, where is an amphitheatre and aqueduct; to Sessa or St. Agat, where I had the first sight of the comet, being up early in the morning; to Capua, where a noble church made out of a large pretorium, a small cittadelle, and an handsome bridge.
To Naples, where wee obserued three castles, Castello Nouo, del Ouo, and St Elmo, where is the Chartreuse, the noblest conuent I ever sawe. Nouo and del Ouo haue a way vnder ground vnto each other. St. Blesa street goes quite through the citty. Rue de Toledo obseruable. Wee saw the viceroy, Cardinal d'Arragon, giue audience vnto all petitions and complaints, which hee doth once a weeke. The front of the palace, and the guards relieved. A cascade, where the water runnes through beasts mouths into a fountaine, where Neptune is made by Bernigno. Stables, souldiers, horses, casting of ordinance, the arsenall, a chappell well guilt, an hall where the pictures of all the viceroyes, good tapistrie in two roomes, hall for comedies, the mole, a fine fountain, and a canal.
Sta. Maria de Noua painted by Josapin, in the sacristie whereof lye buryed two famous captaines and the body intire of St. Jacomo de Camerera. The Jesuite's church well paynted by Joardin; in the sacristie a picture by Guido Renus. Statuas made by Caualliero Bernino. Santa Clara, wherein four pillars, brought by Constantine, of the temple of Jerusalem. Tis the oldest church in Naples.
St. Dominico maior, where the crucifix spake to Thomas Aquinas, “bene scripsisti de me Thoma.” In the sacristie are many sepultures of kings and queens in lead, placed in truncks. By it is a conuent of Jacobins, of which order there are eighteen in this citty.
St. Seuerino, paynted by Belisarius, who fell down from the roofe, brake his neck, and there lyeth buryed. Where are also the sepulchres of three brethren, killd by their vncle, the prince of Salerno.
The church of St. Gaetan, paynted by Lanfranc, hung full of tables of vowes made in time of the plague. In the front are eight Corinthian pillars which belonged to the temple of Castor and Pollux, whose statuas lye one by side of the other, and were throwne downe when St. Peter first came thither.
The noble church of the Annunciada, paynted by Bassan. Ouer the altar a canopie couered with beaten gold, a tabernacle of massie syluer about ten foote high, and on each side two angels about the same hight, of massie syluer, worth
11000 crownes. St. Luke's picture of our lady round faced. The noblest argenterie imaginable, among which a couer for the altar in syluer with statuas. In the church
In the church queen Joanes tomb, her crowne and rose of diamonds, besides cupboards full of syluer plate of vast bignesse, hangings for the whole church in satin and gold, upon cloath of syluer. Wee saw the body of queen Joane's daughter, in a chest, her hands and slippers, who dyed two hundred and twenty yeares agoe. A chappell wherein were the bodyes of twelve saints. Wee saw two of the Innocents' bodies. St. John's finger, ecce agnus dei. St. Barbara's head, which smells sweet.
Wee sawe the palace of prince Caraciolo, the gallerie filld with pictures of the best masters, of Michael Angelo's Day of Judgment; syluer tables; syluer great shell; the cabanets which play of themselues many tunes, imitating diuers sorts of instruments in one; there are fiue which dance; many looking glasses, in some of which wee saw only our backs. Rome, January 2, 1664-5.
Mr. Edward Browne to his Father.
[Ms. Sloan. 1868.]
In my last journey to Naples I met with many antiquities very remarkable ; at Terracina, a pillar sit up by Traian, the old walls of the towne, and an inscription of Theodoric, when hee drained those fenns; at Garriglano, an amphitheatre and an aqueduct; at Capua, a noble prætorium, now made into a church; at Puzzoli and Baiæ, so many as I shall not haue roome to number them. Mr. Crauen's letter here inclosed containes most of them. I went up monte Vesuvio, and a litle way into it, till the steepnes hindred me. The whole ground for 4 mile about is couered with sinders, and burnt stone; at the top the ground is burnt to a red colour, and within it in many places it lookes white. It smokes in abundance of places, both on the sides and at the bottom. The circuit of the mouth I judged to bee about three mile, the guid told us 5; uery deep. In this is another hole of aboue a mile in compasse, they say two; and in the middle of that I perceued another, which had a litle hill rais'd in the middle of it. At the foot of the Peak, after wee had mounted 4 mile, by many cracks and clefts of the mountaine, wee left our horses, and with uery much labour got up a-foot, our feet sinking each step into the ashes; but our descent was extremly pleasant, we slipping safely 10 yardes at a time, without any inconuenience but that of haueing ashes in our shoes. About this hill grows the pleasantest and the least offensive wine, to the head, of any I haue tasted in Italy. Tis much like that of Condrieu, by Lyons. The plants that I saw but few; diuers sorts of thornes and some strawberry trees. At Naples the churches goe beyond all I have yet seen, setting aside St. Peter's; and the Carthusians here beyond all other couents, the cloisters being supported by threescore large marble pillars, and paued with inlayed marble, in delicat works and fowars; in the quire are five noble pieces of 5 seuerall masters, Paulo Verronese, Guido Boloniensis, Spanioletto, Carazzio, Josapin. I saw the viceroy Cardinal Arragon, according to the custome, giue audience to all people that had any business or petitions to put to him. Caualliero Dernigno hath made many statuas here ; one that is now aliue at Rome, not inferior to Michel Angelo, as his works in Piazza, Nauona, sufficiently testify. On Christmas euen I saw the Cardinalls at supper at the Pope's at monte Cauallo. I heard the midnight musick at the Apollinari, and was at St Maria Maggiore in the morning, where the Pope was expected to say masse, but by reason of a cold hee had gotten, it was performed by Cardenall Barberin, the head of the colledge. I haue since seene some antiquities, as Mausoleum Augustij, Thermæ Dioclesianæ, Pantheon, now St. Maria di rotonda, Cestius his pyramid ; some palaces, as that of Pamphilio, Justiniano, Mont-alto, Barberini, Farnese, where the bull that was brought from Rhodes is; (some] of the most ancient and noble statuas of Rome. On St Thomas day wee were very kindly entertained by the Jesuites, with a feast and good musick. There are at present a great number of English men here at Rome, seldome so many knowne here together; and