very ruines are so curious, that they caused in us no smal admiration. As there is three steeples in Lincoln, so there were here three pinacles or spires very neat, large and finely carved, in most places; but the largest which stood over the crosse was beaten downe with a granado in the late wars, when as they fortified the church and held out a hot seige for their soveraighne. It was very confidently reported to us that not long [since] they had found a burning lamp in an ancient sepulchre in this church. There is such a vast deal of carvd work in all places, both on the inside and outside of this church, though most now is either defaced or quite ruin'd, and such a number of statua some wereof have been gilt, that wee could not well conceive the splendour of these things when they were at their glory, but did exceedingly admire even et Curios jam dimidios, nasumq. minorem Corvini et Galbam auriculis nasoq. carentem.

Wee were glad to see them teach a reparation, and wish them many a Cyrus for their benefactor. Taking leave of this town, wee had a pleasant journy to Coltshill this afternoon, being a small town and nothing remarkable but an indifferent high pinacle. Here wee lodged and it was debated among us whither we should crosse immediately over to Leister and so home, or fetch a compass and see Warwick and Coventry, the latter of which at last wee concluded of, and in our journey next day wee saw the ruins of Chillingworth castle, after, within a mile and a halfe of Warwick, wee entred Guy of Warwick cave in a rock, and in an old building hard by view'd his statua, which hath been abus'd by some valient knight of the post, in these late troubles, who, I suppose, counted it valour sufficient to encounter but the statua of Sir Guy. Such Don Quixot hectoring wee have had lately that I wonder how their prowesse sufferd a windmill standing in the land.

Warwick is a neat well built town, with a fair church and many fine monuments in it, but its chiefly famous for that noble tomb of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, treble gilt, and judged by the skillfullest workmen to bee second to none in England. I cannot say but in old time Mausolus his tombe might goe beyound it, but I am such an admirer of

this, dear reader, I would wish my selfe a painter for your sake to show you the picture of it.

About another very handsome tombe wee read, "Here lies servant to Queen Elizabeth, counsellour to King James, and friend to Sir Philip Sidney."

Wee walked to the castle and were very courteously intertaind, though mere strangers, by Mr. Allen my Lord Brook's chaplain, who shew about most roomes of this house not excepting the cellar, they are most of them very noble. Wee walked up to the top of Guy's tower, and saw Sir Guy's pot and such like other reliques of his. After this into the garden in which is a very high mount, which is so orderd in the going up to the top you shall scarce perceive your selfe to ascend, till you are mounted above all the countrey and have a goodly prospect of most part of Warwickshiere; but our eyes did not care to wander farre, having so fair an object nigh at hand, as this almost invincible yet incomparable delight castle, pleasently seated upon the river Aven.

This night being.....wee reach'd Coventry, whose goodly walls had been lately pulled down lest they might again bee made use of to secure a rout of factious rebells. The next day being Sunday, wee rested our selves and horses and took some notice of the city, in which there are two very large churches and three very high spire steeples: one of the steeples having lost its church: which are carv'd about and very handsomely wrought. Wee likewise saw that famous structure, Coventry crosse, and had the luck to meet with another old acquaintance here too, Mr. Richard Hopkins.

For the buildings in generall they are but mean, an oister barrell serves instead of a chimney in divers places, and most of the city is built the old wooden way, yet there may be some good houses within side, but not many gentlemen living in them.

Warwick, though the lesser place, yet for a seat is more affected by the gentry.

Hence on Munday wee went, in a very blind rode very hard to find, to Leister, where by the church they shewed us an ancient ruine, consisting of four arches, under which, they reported, in old time, that children were sacrificed. Wec

8

baited hard by the house where King Richard III. lodged the night before hee fought with Henry the Seventh. There is a neat crosse here but few good houses. Wee made hast out of towne, hoping to get forward our journey, that wee might the better reach Peterborough next day; but the way being very bad, the rain, and the soyle about Leister being most of it full of clay, forced us to lodge in a pitifull village called Bilzel, six miles from Leister, where wee had the worst accomodation in all our travaile. For supper wee could get nothing but a piece of a dolphin, or cheese, which you please, for such is the ingenity of these Bilzel dayry maids, that they forme the cheese in to the figure of fishes, but I had rather have had flesh at present. Our beds you must not suppose them too soft, nor our chambers like the best in the Escuriall, but yet wee fared better then many a knight arrant, and march away next day to Stamford, which is [a] very handsome wall'd town, with five good churches. Here wee only drank a glass of sack, having before din'd at Uppingham, and so took our leave of Rutland. Wee saw Burleigh House, a most noble fabrick indeed, seated in the middle of a walled parke, and in a short space gained Peterborough, where wee lodged this night; and went to see the minster betimes next morning, which is supported with large pillars, beautified with a handsome front quire, which is no small grace to the church. Wee went up to the top of the lanthorne, and from thence saw Ely minster, eight and twenty miles distance, having from hence a large prospect over all the fens; but intended to have viewed Ely nearer hand, but, being almost tir'd and discouraged by reason of the bad way, wee tooke over to Wisbich, riding ten mile upon a streight banke of earth, and four mile more by the side of a made river, which goes through Wisbich, having all this morning a pleasent sight of the fenes under, and by this avoyding the bad way by Whittlesea.

Wisbich is a handsome well built town, and did goe beyond our expectation. From hence wee travel'd along through marshland, and ended our circuit this night at Lin, from whence next day wee returned home, when towards night, recollecting and discoursing of all the citys and places wee

8 Qu. Billesdon?

had mette with in this our little more then fortnight's journey, to consummate all, that famous city of Norwich presents itselfe to our view; Christ Church high spire, the old famous castle, eight and thirty goodly churches, the fields about it and the stately gardens in it, did so lessen our opinion of any wee had seen, that it seem'd to us to deride our rambling folly, and fored a new admiration from us of those things which, with their often view had dull'd our conceptions, and due estimation of theyr worth; but so much for that. Our intent here was onely to recollect something of our journey, which being here finish'd, a further digression will not be admitted, if the relation bee more tedious then the journey, and our caracter of our own county may seem to savour of affectation, and wee want to bee rather our country friend then truth's, yet give mee leave to say this much: let any stranger find mee out so pleasant a county, such good way, large heath, three such places as Norwich, Yar. and Lin. in any county of England, and I'll bee once again a vagabond to visit them.

It is not to be wondered at, if, after the adventure which has just been related, the Dr. should consider a little study a salutary discipline for his two boys, who were accordingly dispatched to Cambridge. That they were busily employed there in the following year we have a solitary testimony in the following paternal epistle, hastily addressed to them both.

Dr. Browne to his sons Edward and Thomas.?

[MS. SLOAN. 1848. fol. 123.]

NED AND TOM, GOD BLESSE YOU.

[July, 1663.]

I am glad thou hast performed thy exercises with credit, though they have proved very chargeable.

Tom

? Who were then at Cambridge. The first part of this letter evidently addresses the elder son, who had recently taken his degree, M.B. at Trinity College.

Bensley1 is much satisfied with his journey. I am going out of towne, and, I doubt, return not till Monday, and so I must bee brief and have only time to present my service to all friends, Mr. Bridge, Mr. Nurse, Mr. Craven. Our assises begin not till August. Take notice of the extraordinarie overthrowe given to the Spaniards by the Portuguese.

2

Honest Tom, be of good heart, and follow thy businesse. I doubt not butt thou wilt doe well. God hath given thee parts to enable thee. If you practise to write, you will have a good pen and style. It were not amiss to take the draught of the College, or part thereof if you have time, butt however, omitt no opportunitie in your studie, you shall not want while I have it.

Your loving father,

THO. BROWNE.

No apology, it is hoped, need be offered for printing the following journal. It affords us a pleasant glimpse of the amusements of Norwich, at a time. when it was the residence of a nobleman of the highest rank, who appears to have associated without reserve with its leading families, and to have made it his study to promote the gaieties of the place. Mr. Edward Browne's own participation in those gaieties is placed in most amusing contrast with his more professional occupations. His morning dissections and prescriptions, relieved by his evening parties,—the interest he evinces in the marvellous powders of Dr. de Veau, his faith in a magical cure for the jaundice, —and not least, the gravity with which he tells of "a serpent vomited by a woman," which "she had unfor

1 Most probably a confidential servant of Dr. B's.

2 By the Portuguese, under the command of Counts Villaflor and Schomberg, at the battle of Ebora, in the summer of 1663: of which victory the first intelligence arrived in London, June 25th, 1663.