MALTA. trance being less than 500 yards. It possesses great advantages as a harbor, being free from danger, GIBRALTAR has not inaptly been termed the key of and the shore everywhere so bold, that a line-ofthe Mediterranean, and following up the simile, battle ship may lie close to it, and take in a supply Malta may be compared to the spring of the lock, of water from pipes laid down in several places, or possessing advantages from its strength and situation, her provisions, without the aid of boats. The norwhich cannot be too highly appreciated by England. thern shore is but slightly varied from the straight There is, however, this difference in the two places, line, but to the southward the coast is deeply indented that while the former has had Nature for the chief by three inlets: the first, immediately on passing engineer, the latter is indebted almost entirely to art the point of entrance, called Bighi Bay, where the A detailed ac- French had commenced a palace for Napoleon, for its almost equal impregnability. count of its extensive lines of fortification would ex- which, after remaining thirty years in an unfinished ceed our present intention, which is to confine our-state, has at last been converted into a naval hospiselves to those points more immediately connected with the Grand Port of Valetta, of which the above is a sketch. The approach to Valetta. situated near the eastern point of the island, is highly picturesque and interesting; the fortifications, close to which vessels must pass, seem sufficient to annihilate the most powerful naval force that could be sent against it. There are two harbors separated from each other by a narrow neck of land; but the northern and smaller of the two is solely appropriated to the purposes of quarantine, a penance which is strictly enforced, as the inhabitants have already had an awful lesson, in the dreadful plague with which they were visited in 1813. The southern, or Grand Port, is large, safe, and commodious, running up, in a south-west direction, a mile and three-quarters; the breadth at the en tal; secondly, a narrow creek, called Porto della Galera, or Galley Port, where the galleys of the knights were laid up; and, lastly, Porto della Sanglea. The two last are perfectly land-locked. On the Valetta side the shore is one continued line of wharves, on which stand the Pratique-office, the Custom-house, the Fish-market, with ranges of storehouses both public and private; and along these wharves merchant vessels generally lie to discharge and load their cargoes. The Galley Port is principally appropriated to the establishments connected with the naval arsenal, whose storehouses and residences of the officers occupy the greater part of its shores. The dockyard is at the head of the creek, the victualling-office and cooperage along its eastern shore; and although its greatest breadth does not exceed 250 yards, the depth of water is sufficient to admit of two-decked ships lying at the situation. dockyard to undergo their necessary repairs; the "speroneras," being constantly employed running to western side is resorted to by merchant vessels and fro. Provisions are cheap and abundant, but when making a long stay. The shores of Port San- butchers' meat is indifferent. There is a lighthouse glea are chiefly occupied by private yards for build-in Fort St. Elmo, occupying a very advantageous ing and repairing merchant vessels; beyond which, up to the head of the harbor, the country is open. The entrance to the harbor is defended by Forts Ricasoli on the east, and St. Elmo on the west, whose walls rise almost immediately from the seashore, and by Fort St. Angelo, a quadruple battery, the lowest tier of which is nearly level with the water. This fort stands at the extremity of the tongue which separates the Galley Port from Bighi Bay, and completely flanks the entrance. The next point, separating the Galley Port from Port Sanglea, is also protected by a battery, besides which a line of fortification surrounds the town on both sides the harbor, with bastions, where most conducive to the general defence, and towards the land the utmost ingenuity of art has been lavished to render the town impregnable. The Maltese are an industrious and active, though by no means a fine race of men; the poverty of their living superinduces diseases, among which ophthalmic complaints are the most prevailing. The streets of Valetta are thronged with a squalid set of the most persecuting beggars, whose snpplications for "carita" are as incessant, and more annoying to the ear, even than the ringing of the bells. Valetta itself is built on the narrow neck of land which divides the two ports, occupying an area of 560 acres. The first stone was laid in 1566 by the famous Grand Master, John de la Valette, after having, the year before, obliged the Turks to abandon a protracted and vigorous siege against the Order, who then inhabited the opposite shores of the island called Burmola and Isola. The new city, however, soon surpassed the other parts in population, buildings, and commercial importance, and now gives name to the whole, which properly consists of five distinct quarters, or towns, viz., on the north side of the port, Valetta and Floriana, and on the south side, Vittoriosa, Burmola, and Isola; the three latter enclosed in an extensive line of fortification called the Cotonera. The streets are at right angles to each other; and being built on an elevation inclining on either side, most of the transverse streets are necessarily constructed with flights of steps, which Lord Byron has justly anathematized as "cursed streets of stairs," an expression that might be drawn from the most pious while toiling up them on a sultry summer's day. The houses are low, never exceeding a second The boats, which are very numerous, afford a story; built of the stone of the island, and are prostriking and pleasing feature in the general appear- vided with balconies to most of the windows, and ance of the place: though seemingly very clumsy, flat terraced roofs, which, in commanding situations, they are rowed with great velocity by the natives, furnish an agreeable resort in the cool of the day,who stand up and push at the oar; they are safe and also to catch the rain, which is conducted by pipes commodious, always kept remarkably clean, and to a cistern, with which every house is provided. painted with the gayest colors, having an eye on There are likewise public fountains, the source of each side of the stern; they are also provided with whose supply is in the southern part of the island, a white cotton awning, and curtains for fine weather, and conveyed to the city by means of an aqueduct. and a more substantial covering for rain; they are The streets are generally wide and well paved, with well regulated, and their hire is very moderate. a broad footpath on each side; but the glare caused The boat-races, which are frequent, offer a very lively and animated scene. The water is beautifully clear, and generally crowded with boys bathing, many of whom spend nearly as much time in that element as on shore; the Maltese are universally good swimmers and divers; and the numerous fastdays of the Catholic church give employment to many in supplying the market with fish. Malta is very subject to the oppressive and enervating" sirocco," or south-east wind; but the "gregali," or north-east wind, is that which blows with the greatest fury, and, blowing directly into the harbor, causes a sea across the entrance that would be dangerous to small vessels, and cuts off the communication across from Valetta to Vittorioso. The surf there beats against the walls of the fortifications with impetuous violence; it has even at times removed the guns from the embrasures of Fort Ricasoli, and the spray has been carried over the top of the palace. The island produces some excellent fruits, among which are the oranges and melons for which it is particularly celebrated, but the market is chiefly supplied from Sicily, a number of large boats, called by the reflection of the sun on the sandstone is so intolerably distressing to the eyes as to render walking out during the middle of the day almost impossible. The Palace, at present occupied by the governor, was formerly the residence of the Grand Master of the Order; it is a large and handsome quadrangular building, with a spacious courtyard in the centre; it stands about the middle and highest part of the town, and on it is the signal station. It contains some beautiful specimens of tapestry, and paintings of the Grand Masters, and has a very extensive armory attached to it, with curious specimens of armor and weapons. Before this palace is an open space called Piazza St. Giorgio, used as a military parade, and enlivened in the evenings by one of the regimental bands. Near this is the cathedral of St. John, the tutelar saint of the Order, a vast, though externally a remarkably plain and unostentatious edifice within is a spacious oblong area, and on each side are aisles, with particular altars or chapels for the different nations composing the Order, adorned with paintings and sculpture according to the zeal or riches of the " Tongue," as it was technically called, to himself, puffed up with vanity, swelling with importance, and who make a pretence of doing something, by occasionally visiting a lawyer's office, to read a page or two of Blackstone. The end of such a youth it needs no prophetic vision to see. "It is as plain as the way to market," as Dr. Franklin would say, that he will turn out a low, despised, and miserable tool. Perhaps the Penitentiary will bring him up, perhaps the gallows. But if he escape these, it will be to hang like an incubus on those of his friends, who, for pity's sake, have not the heart to send him where he deserves. which it belonged. The whole pavement is, how-where young men have nothing to do but to dress ever, richly emblazoned with the armorial bearings according to the latest fashions. He is quite indeof the knights, in mosaic. The appointments of this pendent, and uses language to his seniors that might cathedral suffered greatly during the temporary pos- be considered uncourteous in a king. He faces all session of the island by the French; a handsome classes and conditions without a blush, and dares to silver railing round one of the altars escaped their look with contempt on the honest apprentice, whose sacrilegious rapacity only by being painted. The generous soul would outweigh a thousand as light as vaults below the cathedral are also curious. Be- his own. The companions he chooses are like sides St. John, Valetta abounds in churches, the incessant ringing of whose bells is among the greatest nuisances of the place. Although the island has been in possession of the English since 1800, no Protestant church has been built; a small chapel in the Palace, and one at the Dockyard, being the only places of worship of the Established Church. The next objects are the hotels, or inns of the different nations, where they held their meetings: these still retain their distinguishing appellations, though now variously applied, some to quarters for officers of the garrison, some to private individuals, and one, having the only large room floored with plank in the town, The above is a true picture of many of the young has become the scene of public assemblies. Valetta men who may be seen daily in our streets. You has its banks and exchanges, and there are also meet them at every corner, in all public resorts, public hospitals, a very good theatre, and coffee- at all parties of pleasure, riding, sailing, laughing, houses fitted up with marble, where the visiter may talking, joking eternally, apparently with money enjoy that luxury in a hot climate, ice, brought over enough, more impudence, and less brains. But how from Etna. There are two libraries, one which be- they all contrive to keep body and soul together, longed to the Knights, comprising about 40,000 without work, always spending, and never earning, volumes of Greek, Latin, French, and Italian works; we confess is sometimes a mystery to us. When the other a subscription library, established by the a project of pleasure is talked of, the expense is English residents. least talked of, and the least considered. Of one thing we are certain, that we are fast verging to a nation of paupers. It is impossible for a people to live long in idleness, enjoying the luxuries and blessings of life, without greatly diminishing the resources of comfort and wealth. To be prosperous as a people, each must do his part-at least do sufficient labor to gain his own support. Valetta, on the whole, is a gay and interesting place, not only from its former eventful history and chivalrous masters, but from its present state. Its commercial activity, its political importance, and its central situation in the Mediterranean, all conduce to make it the resort of a great variety of nations, ranks, and characters, from all quarters of the globe. Parents are guilty in this matter. They should not permit their great lubberly boys to hang on them for support, when they are well able to labor, and WHAT DOES THAT YOUNG MAN DO FOR when to work would promote their health, and make A LIVING? 66 them cheerful and happy. You do them a mighty wrong, while you dandle them in folly, and nurture "WHAT does that young man do for a living?" them in extravagance, and tell them how manly they is the common inquiry, as some foppish, well-dressed appear, when you know, you must know, the deleindividual passes by. Nothing nothing at all," terious consequences. If your great boys will not is the frequent reply. "But what supports him in work, you should not support them; drive them his extravagance?" None can tell-but we, being away if they are lazy, and it will be for their good a Yankee, have the privilege of guessing. That and your glory in the end. Let them see that they young man that dresses in broadcloth, carries a cane, must depend upon themselves, as you have done and is so extremely polite to all his acquaintance- before. It is a burning shame for aged parents to especially the ladies-is the son of a man in mode- be burdened with the support of stout rugged boys, rate circumstances, who finds it difficult to sustain men in size, but pigmies in knowledge, sense, and himself with a moderate income. His son wishes manners, at the time of life when their children to be a gentleman, and lives without labor. The should take them under their protection and care, father in his folly refuses to put him to a trade, or and provide for their health, comfort, and happiness. send him to work on a farm, hoping that something may turn up, by and by, when business will be better, for his son to obtain a good living without work. He is now obliged to dispense with the luxuries of life-perhaps with some of its comforts, for his son to keep up appearances, and get into good society, as that kind of company is termed, its name and nature. The richest endowments of the mind are temperance, prudence, and fortitude; prudence is a universal virtue, which enters into the composition of all the rest; and where that is not present, fortitude loses by an ascending angular point, which, when the mouth is closed, passes within the upper jaw; the upper ONE of the angler poets, whom Walton loved to jaw also, if viewed from below, is likewise angular." quote, says : "I care not, I, to fish in seas; Fresh rivers best my mind do please, But the gray mullet only ascends and descends rivers with the flow and ebb of the sea. It haunts the shallow waters on the coast of England, never going far from land; and though it ventures up rivers, it invariably returns with the tide. Walton does not once mention having angled for the gray mullet, but had he done so, the sport would have called into exercise all his skill and all his patience; for so careful is it not to swallow any large or hard substance, that it has a trick of getting the bait into its mouth and of rejecting it if suspicion be at all excited. Even if hooked it is often only in the lips, and it then plunges with much violence, and often effects its escape. The gray mullet spawns about midsummer. The general color of the adult is a darkish gray, with a tinge of blue, and the sides and belly, which are white, are marked by dark longitudinal lines. The form of the mouth is very peculiar, and is thus described by Mr. Yarrell:-"The lower jaw is divided in the middle Besides the gray mullet there are two other species, the thick-lipped gray mullet, which abounds in considerable numbers on the coast of Cornwall, England, and another, of which Mr. Yarrell caught a specimen at the mouth of Poole harbor, which is remarkable for the shortness of its form. Cuvier remarked that the species of European mullets had probably not been well ascertained. The mullet for which the Romans gave such extravagant prices for their entertainments is altogether a different species. By experiments which have been made for ascertaining whether salt water fish could be kept in ponds of fresh water, it has been found that the gray mullet has actually improved. Some fry were put into a pond of three acres in Guernsey, when about three inches in length, and in four years they weighed four pounds, and were "fatter, deeper, and heavier than those obtained from the sea." When enclosed within a ground-sein or sweepnet, as soon as the danger is seen, and before the limits of its range are straitened, and when even the end of the net might be passed, it is its common habit to prefer the shorter course, and throw itself over the head-lines and so escape; and when one of the com pany passes, all immediately follow. This disposi- | wherein this church is described as having "a small tion is so innate in the gray mullet, that young ones tower, a good stone front, and a small marble stone, of minute size may be seen tumbling themselves ornamented with copper, to bear the pax." Weever head over tail in their active exertions to pass the speaks of a "wondrous antient monument," by trahead-line. A mullet less than an inch in length has dition, said to belong to the family of Gray, of Gray's been known to throw itself repeatedly over the side Inn. The church and its now well-thronged graveof a cup in which the water was an inch below the yard have been long noted as the burial-place of such brim. But when a solitary fish has been left in the Roman Catholics as die in London. Almost every net, and all means of escape are prevented, it will tomb bears a cross, and the initials of Requiescat in then make a desperate effort to pass through one of pace. May they rest in peace! It has been asthe meshes, retiring previously to the greatest pos- signed as a reason for this, that in the south of sible distance, and then rushing at once towards that France still stands another such old church, dedipart of the net which appears to offer the most in-cated to the same saint, in which masses are said for viting chance of escape; when it finds itself held the souls of all the dead interred at St. Pancras in by the middle, it then quietly submits to its fate. England. Here also, it is said, hangs the last bell Carew, the Cornish historian, kept some gray mullets which tolled for mass in that country. in a salt-water pond, which became so tame, that they would assemble together at a certain noise which he was accustomed to make. Like all old English churches, its walls still strive to rescue from oblivion the names of such as moulder in their neighborhood. Old Pancras has its monuments. Some families connected with property in the neighborhood of course find place: A "London merchant," also, who witnessed the "Great Fire ;" "Daniel Clarke, Esq., who had been cook to Queen Elizabeth;" Samuel Cooper, a miniature-painter, who was intimate with the author of "Hudibras," and whose pencil has left us likenesses of the most celebrated statesmen, wits, and beauties of his stirring age. A portrait of Cromwell is his chief work. His manner approaches closely to that of Vandyke, and his pictures are in great esteem all over Europe, fetching great prices. Cooper was related to Pope, too; his wife was sister to Pope's mother. The churchyard, likewise, has its monuments: Woodhead, a great champion of the Romish faith, and by some reputed the author of "The Whole Duty of Man;" Leoni, a Venetian, architect to the Elector Palatine, who died here just a century ago; also a Count of the Holy Roman Empire, de Haslang, envoy from the Elector Palatine to the court of England. To the list the last few days has added another name, in that of Dr. Kenny. Of the worthies associated with the church, those of Paley and William Sherlock may be remembered. They were both prebends of Pancras. Close by is a chapel, and behind it a tomb erected by Sir John Soane, the donor of the Soane Museum, which is an object worthy of notice. Is a quaint old Gothic pile, built of stones and flints, and certainly as old as the thirteenth century. Now that it is coated with plaster, it has lost a good deal of the forsaken, weather-beaten, decaying look of which the old chronicler speaks; albeit more than five centuries have passed away since its foundations were laid. It is small, and consists of a nave and chancel, having at the west end a low tower, and "dome-like roof." In the old records of St. Paul's (Lib. L) is a visitation, which took place in 1251, At the threshold of life Hope leads us in- And is it not a dream of a fancy proud, |