Page images
PDF
EPUB

laid out in the English style, with 1 Reichenbach. Inn, Schwann considerable taste. 1 Görlitz. Inns: Golden Baum; The road to Breslau passes through-Brauner Hirsch. A flourishing little

a suburb of

34 Löbau (Inn, Lamm); a town of 2500 inhabitants. About six miles S. of Löbau, half way on the road to Zittau, lies Herrnhut, the mothercolony of the sect of Moravians, or Herrnhutters. It was established by fugitives driven from Austria in consequence of the persecution of the Jesuits 1721-23. They were received by Count Zinzendorf, a Saxon nobleman, who granted them an asylum and lands on this spot, and is considered their founder. The colony is settled under a hill called the Hutberg, Watch-hill, from which they call themselves the Lord's Watch, Herrn huter. It is now a flourishing little town of 1400 inhabitants, distinguished by the order and cleanliness which prevail in it. It is the seat of a bishop, and the central point of the government and commerce of the sect, which, in 1832, numbered 42 settlements in different parts of the world. The Moravians profess the doctrines of the Confession of Augsburg, but bear some resemblance to the Quakers in their inspirations and the plainness of their dress. The female costume is distinguished by various coloured ribbons. The girls wear red-unmarried women, deep red-married, blue-and widows, grey or white. The meeting-house, the sale-rooms for the articles manufactured here, and the Cemetery of the community on the Hutberg, all deserve to be visited. The Cemetery is a very interesting spot, commanding a lovely prospect, and laid out like a pleasureground, excepting the flat graveAmong them is that of Count Zinzendorf, only distinguished from the rest by its larger dimensions. Inn, Das Gemeinlogie.

stones.

In proceeding from Löbau to Breslau, the first place within the frontier of Prussia is

town, which belonged to Saxony previous to 1815; it is picturesquely situated on the Neisse, with 11,000 inhabitants. Much cloth and linen are made here. The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul is a building of the fifteenth century. In the Kreutzkirche there is a representation of the Holy Sepulchre. About three miles off, in the valley of the Neisse, rises the picturesque hill of Landeskrone, surmounted by basalt, and commanding a fine view. From Görlitz an excursion may be made into Bohemia to the Baths of Liebewerda, about 18 miles distant, romantically situated, and provided with good accommodation, though retired and not much frequented. The waters resemble those of Spa. There are some beautiful valleys around it, and in the neighbourhood the convent of Haindorf, and the chateau of Friedland, from which the celebrated Wallenstein received his title of Duke. It was presented to him with its dependent estates by the Emperor Ferdinand as a compensation for the property he had sacrificed in his cause. It now belongs to the Count Clam Gallas, and still contains some relics of its original owner, with collections of armour, pictures, &c. The ascent of the Tafelfichte, 3400 feet high, may be made from Liebewerda, from which it is about four miles distant.

Between Görlitz and Liegnitz there are two roads, equal in distance; both are given here, but the first is most agreeable from the pretty country over which it passes.

31 Lauban. Inn, Brauner Hirsch. A manufacturing town on the Queis; 4500 inhabitants.

The traveller bound to the Riesengebirge will here turn to the right and proceed by Greiffenberg, 21 German miles to Hirschberg, 4 German miles, where he falls into Route LXXXIII. (p. 340.)

3 Löwenberg, a town of 4000 inhabitants, on the Bober.

3 Goldberg. Inns: Pelican;— Drei Bergen. A town of 6400 inhabitants, who are chiefly engaged in the manufacture of cloths. It lies upon the Katsbach, a small stream, but memorable in history from the battle named after it, gained by Blücher over the French in 1813. The Wolfsberg on the W. of the town was a point severely contested. Blucher received, as a reward for his services, the title of Prince of Wahlstadt, from a small village of that name, with a convent now suppressed, between Liegnitz and Jauer. It had rained for four days in succession previous to the battle, and continued to rain while it lasted, so that powder was useless, and the victory was gained by the bayonet and the butt-end of the musket: 102 French cannon were taken. The fiercest part of the battle raged between Wahlstadt and Eicholz, near which a monument has been erected by the King of Prussia.

A great battle was fought near the same spot in 1241, between the Duke of Silesia and the army of the Mongul Tartars. Wallenstein was a pupil of the Burgherschool in Goldberg. He entered it in 1597.

2 Liegnitz. Inns: Rautenkranz; -Schwarzer Adler. This town, of 11,000 inhabitants, is prettily placed on the junction of the Katsbach and Schwarzwasser. The Rathhaus is venerable for its antiquity, and contains some old armour. The building of the Ritter Academie, an institution for the education of the sons of Silesian nobles, is handsome. The New Cemetery for Protestants and Catholics, outside the town, on the right of the road to Breslau, should be visited.

The other road leads from Görlitz to

[blocks in formation]
[blocks in formation]

BRUNN AND LANDSHUT-WITH THE
EXCURSION TO ADERSBACH.

General Information.

The range of mountains separating Silesia from Bohemia is called Riesengebirge (Giant mountains); the chief of this chain is the Schnee koppe (Snow-head), the highest mountain in Germany north of the Danube, being 4983 feet above the sea. The outline of the chain is rather swelling than bold, but within its valleys are scenes of great beauty, enhanced in the eyes of the Germans of the north by being contrasted with the wearisome flatness and monotony of their own country. It must be understood that the scenery of the Riesengebirge will bear no comparison with that of the Alps, either in elevation, grandeur, or beauty. Its beauties are limited to a pleasing variety of hill and dale, wood and water, rich verdure and fertility of soil, numerous towns and villages planted in romantic valleys by the side of rivers, inhabited by an industrious population and enlivened by prosperous manufactures. These features give to the country an agreeable aspect, and in conjunction with its Mineral Baths render it annually the resort of a multitude of strangers.

The best approaches to the Riesengebirge are from Dresden or Breslau (Routes LXXXI. & LXXXII.); the direct road from Berlin is bad, and the country traversed uninteresting.

The following are some of the most interesting points proceeding

from west to east, and passing from the Saxon and Prussian into the Austrian territory. The Moravian colony of Hernnhut, though not within the Riesengebirge, lies at a short distance from their western extremity. The Baths of Liebewerda, and Wallenstein's castle of Friedland, under the Tafelfichte, one of the highest of the range of the Riesengebirge, may be visited by making short detours from the high road. (Route LXXXII. p. 337.)

The tour of the Riesengebirge properly begins at Hirschberg and Warmbrunn (page 340), which are the most central points for making excursions, and the best head-quarters, as affording tolerable accommodation. Owing to the changeableness of the weather, the ascent of the Schneekoppe, which is usually made from Hirschberg or Schmiedeberg, very often does not repay the trouble. The river Elbe rises from the southern base of this mountain, at the head of a beautiful valley. The country between Hirschberg, Schmiedeberg, and Landshut, is the Paradise of Silesia.

No one should quit the Giant Mountains without exploring the Labyrinth of Adersbach, the most singular spot in the district, but lying within the Bohemian frontier. It may be best visited from Landshut, or Waldenburg. Between Schmiedeburg and Breslau rises the Zobten, an isolated mountain; the advanced guard, as it were, of the Riesengebirge towards the north; commanding a very extensive view.

The Riesengebirge are the theatre of the exploits of the mischievous spirit called Rübezahl, whose name is well translated into English by that of Number Nip (i.e. turnip numberer). There is hardly a mountain, or a glen, in the country without its legend of this popular demon.

There are very good inns at the towns of this district, and in remote spots on the mountains, the traveller, not over fastidious, may be tolerably well accommodated, without any

luxury, in the buildings called Baude, resembling somewhat the chalets of the Alps. Detailed information respecting the most remarkable spots in the Riesengebirge is given in this and the following Routes.

The distance from Berlin to Hirschberg is 41 Prussian miles 191 English miles.

=

This road is travelled by a Fahrpost twice a-week; a portion of it only is macadamized, and it is very uninteresting, so that, as before observed, instead of going direct from Berlin to Hirschberg, it is better to approach that place from Dresden or Breslau. As far as

11 Frankfort, a. O. the Route has been described at page 334. 41 Neuzelle. Inn: Weisser Schwann.

2 Guben (Inns: Rother Löwe; Blaue Engel;) lies on the banks of the Neisse, which are here planted with vines; its population is 7500. Thus far the road is macadamized.

3 Sommerfeld.

3 Sorau. Inns: Sonne ;-Stern ; a town of 4600 inhabitants; in a sandy plain.

2 Sagan. Inn: Ritter St. Georg; a town of 5500 inhabitants on the Bober; the Chateau was begun_by Wallenstein; attached to it is a fine garden and park. It now belongs to the princess of Curland. The road is good as far as

2 Sprottau. Inn: Deutsches Haus; a town of 3000 inhabitants. Beyond, the country is sandy, and the road heavy, running for 2 stages by the side of the Bober. Gloomy fir woods, rarely enlivened by a woodman's hut, a pitch oven, or an iron forge, spread themselves over the district.

2 Kosel. A little further on is Alt Oels. The desert disappears on reaching

2 Bunzlau. Inns: Kronprinz ;Deutches Haus; a small town of 5000 inhabitants, ou the Bober, situated on the verge of the most

picturesque as well as industrious district of Silesia, which extends as far as the mountains. In the market place is an Iron Obelisk to the memory of the Russian General Kutusoff, who died here 1813. The father of German poetry, Opitz, was born in a house in the Ring No. 66. Much pottery is made here. About 2 miles off lies the Moravian colony of Gnadenberg.

We now come upon excellent macadamized roads; the country displays at every step increasing natural beauties; a dense population, and a fertile soil. A constant intermixture of wood and verdure, hill and dale, give a peculiar charm to the landscape.

2 Löwenberg. Inns: H. du Roi; -Weisses Ross. A town of 4000 inhabitants; on the high road from Dresden to Breslau, and in a beautiful situation. At Neuland, in the vicinity, are considerable quarries of gypsum and of millstones. When about four-fifths of the stage are accomplished, a slight eminence over which the road passes, displays to the view of the traveller the fertile and populous valley of Hirschberg, bounded by the distant range of the Giant Mountains, "a ravishing prospect in any country." The Schneekoppe is seen rising in the centre.

4 Hirschberg (Inns: Deutsches Haus;-Weisses Ross), the principal town of the district, is beautifully situated at the foot of the mountain, at the junction of two small streams, the Bober and Zacken, 1000 feet above the sea, and has about 7000 inhabitants. Its once flourishing linen manufacture is greatly reduced from what it was in the middle of the last century, though a large quantity is still made here, and this is considered the central point of this branch of industry.

The chief buildings are, the Gothic Catholic Church, and the Protestant Church, which has some curious monuments in its cemetery.

The Kavalierberg, and a low firGelad eminence called Mount Helicon,

are two agreeable places of resort in the neighbourhood.

At a distance of about 4 miles from Hirschberg lies Warmbrunn. Inns Schwartzer Adler; - Anker ;Schwartzes Ross. This is a much frequented watering place, lying in one of the most romantic valleys of the Riesengebirge. The visiters usually amount to between 2000 and 3000 annually. The months of July and August are considered the height of the season. The company is not so aristocratic as that which frequents the baths of Töplitz and Carlsbad. The hot mineral springs are said to resemble those of Aix; in temperature they vary from 97° to 99° Fahrenheit. They are considered efficacious in cases of gout and rheumatism, &c., and owe their virtues to the presence of sulphur and alkaline salts. There are several Public Baths in which persons of both sexes bathe together; and in order to enter them, a ticket of admittance must be obtained from the master of the ceremonies regulating the order of precedence, according to the rank of the bearer. There are also private baths. The Russian Baths, built 1830, are the newest and best fitted up, and are provided with vapour baths in the Russian fashion. Warmbrunn originally belonged to the Convent of Grussau, but is now the property of Count Schafgotsch. The building called Gallerie or Gesellschaftshaus comprises a ball or assembly-room, and dining-room; where, as well as in the principal hotels, there is a daily table-d'hôte. The adjoining gardens, park, and allée of poplars, afford agreeable walks to invalids and water-drinkers. Gaming of every sort is strictly forbidden under penalty of a heavy fine. Very beautiful glass of various colours, manufactured in Silesia, and numerous half precious stones, found in the vicinity, and cut by lapidaries on the spot, may be purchased here, and will serve as memorials of the Riesengebirge to friends at home.

Warmbrunn is, from its centrical

situation, the best point for making excursions among the Riesengebirge. There are public conveyances daily in summer from hence to Breslau and Hirschberg.

The small river Zacken is remarkable for a phenomenon not satisfactorily explained. Its waters suddenly disappear, and cease to flow for several hours, after which they again burst forth, and assume their usual level.

The most agreeable walk in the neighbourhood is that to the Kienast, an ancient castle now in ruins, having been destroyed by lightning. It is perched on a rock detached from the main body of the mountains, and its walls rise from the brink of almost perpendicular precipices, so that it is accessible only on one side by a drawbridge. The view from it is very extensive. In ancient times the daughter of a lord of this castle, named Cunigunda, who was as cold and hard-hearted as she was beautiful, made a vow to accept no one, as a lover, who should not previously ride round the castle on the top of the outer wall. She had many suitors, but upon this announcement the greater number retired: a few made the attempt, and were dashed to pieces in the frightful abyss. The lady showed no signs of compunction or pity; she desired to remain single, and was glad to be relieved from the importunities of so many lovers, all of whom were equally indifferent to her. At last, a knight presented himself to try the perilous adventure, whose manly beauty and engaging manners interested her so much, that she repented of her vow, and beheld him with fear and trembling mount the wall upon his steed. To her

great joy he performed the exploit in safety, but to her surprise, when she advanced to throw herself into his arms as her destined bridegroom, instead of a kiss, he gave her a box on the ear, and a smart reproof, and then leaping on his steed

left her in shame and amazement. It was the Landgrave Albert of Thuringia, a married man, who, in order to punish her for her cruelty, had previously practised his steed in this dangerous exercise.

The Schneekoppe (snow-head), the highest summit of the Riesengebirge, 4983 feet above the sea, may easily be ascended in five or six hours from Warmbrunn. The traveller who makes the ascent should be prepared, if he intend to pass the night on the mountain, to sleep on straw, and he will act wisely in taking provisions with him, as the accommodation of the baude is far from good. He should also be prepared for mist, rains, and the probability of not seeing the view in consequence. The road usually taken leads by Seidorf, where guides may be found, and asses and mules are kept for hire.St. Anne's Chapel-across Rübezahls (Number Nip's) skittle ground, passing the Hampelsbaude, a humble inn or chalet, only 20 minutes' walk from the summit. Those who choose to pass the night on the mountain, for the sake of seeing the sun rise, will find better accommodation in the Grenzbaude, (called also Böhmische baude). The top of the mountain is crowned by a small chapel, standing on the frontier line of Austria and Prussia. The prospect is extensive when the state of the weather allows it to be visible. On the side of Silesia the scenery is rich and populous; on the south, towards Bohemia, it is wild and precipitous; the mountains at once sink down into the rugged glens of the Riesengrund and Aupengrund, 2000 feet below. Breslau, 45 miles off, is sometimes seen from hence, it is said. The want of water, however, is a great drawback in the landscape.

The sources of the Elbe are situated under the southern roots of the Schneekoppe. Two springs, rising in the Nawarer Wiese and Weisse Wiese, unite in the Elbegrund, and form the infant river. These are

« PreviousContinue »