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SECTION V.

PRUSSIA, CONTINUED MECKLENBURG-HANOVER-BRUNS

WICK-HESSE CASSEL-THE HANSE TOWNS, &c.

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Routes.

Page. Routes.
LVÍ. London to Hamburg 267 LXVIII. Cologne to Berlin, by
LVII. Hamburg to Lubec and

Paderborn, Bruns-
Travemunde

· 271

wick, and MagdeLVIII. to Dobberan and

burg

· 302 Rostock

273 LXIX. Dusseldorf to Bremen, by LIX. to Hanover 274

Münster

307 LX.

Bremen and Old- LXX. Frankfort-A.-M. to Cassel 309 enburg

- 274 LXXI. Cassel to Hanover, by LXI. Hamburg to Berlin 275

Pyrmont

313 LXII. Berlin to Leipsig, by Potz- LXXII. Cassel to Hanover, by dam and Wittenberg

292
Göttingen

315 LXIII. Berlin to Dresden 296 LXXIII. THE HARTZ.-Göttin. LXIV. Dusseldorf to Berlin, by

gen to Clausthal; Elberfeld, Cassel, Eisle

Goslar the Brocken, ben, and Halle

297

the Rosstrappe, the LXV. Cologne to Hanover, by

Valley of the Bode,
Minden

300

and Alexishad LXVI. Cologne to Berlin, by LXXIV. The Hartz. NordMinden

301

hausen to MagdeLXVII. Cologne to Elberfeld, by

burg

323 Solingen

302

316

ROUTE LVI.

nesday morning, i. e. in four days

from London. LONDON TO HAMBURG,

About 25 miles from the mouth

of the Elbe lies the island of HeligoSTEAM-BOATS go twice a week, start- land (Holyland), so named from ing from London and from Hamburg the Temple of Hertha (Earth), the Wednesday and Saturday mornings: goddess worshipped by the ancient they set off so early in the morning Saxons, which stood on it. It was that it is advisable to sleep on board ceded to Great Britain in 1807, and the night before. The average pas

some fortifications are raised on it. sage is abont 52 hours, though it Its population amounts to 3000. At sometimes takes 60 or 70. A tra- the time when Napoleon had exveller leaving London on Saturday cluded England from the continent, morning commonly reaches Ham- it was important as a war-station; burg early on Monday. He has the and from its situation" near the greater part of that day to look about mouths of the rivers Elbe and Weser, him there, and he may set out for it then became a considerable smugBerlin by the Schnellpost in the gling depôt. Its male inhabitants evening, and breakfast there on Wed- are chiefly fishermen, sailors, and pilots. The sea is fast consuming Hamburg is situated at a distance its shores; and, in the course of of about 80 miles from the mouth of time, will, in all probability, leave the Elbe, at the junction of a small nothing behind but a sandbank; it stream called the Alster with the is now about two miles in circum- Elbe. Being a Free Town, the duties ference, but is diminishing

daily. levied are so small, that travellers (1.) At the mouth of the Elbe stand are not bothered with any Customthe lighthouse and town of Cux- house examination on landing, but haven, on a small angle of territory passports are usually demanded, and belonging to Hamburg. Vessels the traveller's name and profession lie ať anchor off this place waiting are entered at the Baumhaus, near for favourable winds; it is also the the port. Its population is reckoned station for the sailing packets to at 121,000. There are about 6000 Harwich. It is a watering place Jews, who, to the disgrace of this frequented by the inhabitants of free town, are treated with the utHamburg for sea-bathing. Beyond most illiberality, almost as a Pariah Cuxhaven, the left bank of the Elbe caste, being interdicted by law not belongs to Hanover ; it is for the only from enjoying the rights of most part fat and uninteresting. citizens, but even from practising The only towns on this side are any handicraft trade. Stade, an unimportant place, and Money accounts are kept in marks Haarburg, opposite Hamburg. The and schillings; there are 16 schilland on the (rt.) bank is the ter- lings in a mark. The mark banco ritory of the Duchy of Holstein, be- and rix-dollar banco are imaginary longing to Denmark; it rises into

coins. The marc banco is to the gentle slopes, covered, for some dis- current marc as 16 to 13.

The curtance below Hamburg, with wood,

rent coins are, interspersed with handsome villas and

English. gardens belonging to opulent mer

8. d. chants. On this side lies the small

The Marc Courant =121 town of Glückstadt, capital of Hol- Double Marc

= 2 stein, with 6000 inhabitants. Higher Pieces of 8 Schillings up the little fishing village of Blan

4 Sch.

0 31 kenese, with its houses scattered The Rix doll.(Specie)= 4 7 along the slope and among the trees Marc Banco (imag.) = 15$ one above another, is passed; and last of all, the town of ALTONA, which joins Hamburg, and from the river The gates of Hamburg are shut seeins to form a part of it, though every evening at dusk, and a toll, within the Danish territory. It has increasing progressively every hour risen to great mercantile prosperity, till 12, is demanded from all who perhaps to the prejudice

its neigh

pass. Down to the year 1836 neither bour, so that the Hamburgers say ingress nor egress was allowed to that its name agrees with its situa- any one after midnight; but this tion, as it is All-zu-nah (All too inconvenient regulation is now renear). It is the most commercial moved, and persons may pass and and populous town in Denmark next repass all through the night, upon to Copenhagen, having 27,000 inha- payment of one mark each. All eatbitants.

ables brought into the town are taxed HAMBURG, Inns : Belvedere;- at the gates, and even private, carHôtel de Pétersburg, well situated riages are sometimes searched, and and comfortable ;-- Hôtel de Russie, game found in them has been seized. on the Jungfersteig, has a good The executive government of the table-d'hôte.

town is vested in a council or senate,

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composed of burgomasters, lawyers, are not composed of friends of the and merchants, elected for life. The deceased, but of hired mourners, person chosen must accept the office, called Reiten Diener, dressed in or quit the city, at the same time black, with plaited ruffs round their forfeiting one-tenth of his property. necks, wigs, short Spanish cloaks, The members wear a quaint garb, a and swords. The same persons, black velvet cloak, and high crowned whose number is limited to sixteen, hat. The legislative power is placed attend at marriage festivals, and in the hands of three Colleges selected form also a sort of body-guard to the from the general body of citizens. magistrates. Their situations were

Hamburg is one of the three re- formerly purchased at a high price, maining Hanse towns, and is chiefly in consideration of the perquisites remarkable as one of the first trading and fees attached to them. Upon cities of Europe. It is intersected the death of a burgomaster or other by canals, and in this respect, and personage of importance in the town, in the antiquated appearance of its the town trumpeter, a civic officer, houses, bears a resemblance to the is set to blow a dirge from one of towns of Holland. Nearly 2000

the steeples. vessels clear out of the port annu- A large portion of the poorer inhaally: the Elbe is navigable thus far bitants live in cellars under the houses. for ships of considerable burthen, In winter, and after a prevalence of which can enter the harbour and west winds, which drive the waters transmit their cargoes in barges to of the German Ocean into the mouth the merchants' doors. Their ware- of the Elbe, the tides rise to a great houses and dwellings are generally height, (sometimes even exceeding under one roof. Much banking and 20 feet) inundating all the streets funded business is done here, and the near the river. The tenants of town possesses considerable sugar these cellars are then driven from refineries.

their habitations by the water, which The traveller must not expect fine keeps possession of them for days, buildings, or 'valuable collections leaving them filled with ooze, and here. The objects chiefly calculated in a most unhealthy condition from to attract a stranger's attention are, the moisture. A humane law comfirst, the costumes seen in the streets pels those who lodge above, to receive of Hamburg; they are not a little and succour their poorer brethren singular. Servant girls, housemaids, below at such seasons of calamity. and cooks, according to the custom The churches have little archi. of the place, rarely appear in public tectural beauty. St. Michael's has except in the gayest attire; with one of the highest steeples in Eulace caps, long kid gloves, and a rope, 456 feet high, about 100 feet splendid shawl. The last article is higher than St. Paul's, from which elegantly arranged under the arm the town and the Elbe, nearly as far so as to conceal a basket shaped as the sea, Holstein on the north, and like a child's coffin, containing dirty Hanover on the south, present themcloths, butter or cheese, or other selves advantageously to view. It articles purchased at market, as the is also the station of the fire-watch case may be. The peasants who fre- (8 39). quent the market wear a very pic- The Stadthaus is not remarkable turesque attire; they are chiefly as an edifice, but the Senate holds natives of a part of the Hamburg its meetings in it. territory bordering on the Elbe, At three o'clock the merchants, called Vierland, which is principally &c., meet in the Exchange. Near laid out in gardens, and supplies the it are the news and reading-rooms, market with vegetables.

called Börsenhalle, a sort of Lloyd's Funeral processions in Hamburg 'coffee-house, supported by subscrip

some

tions. A stranger can be introduced | though not frequented by the most for two or three days to read the respectable classes, being often the papers, after which he is expected resort of low company, deserve to be to subscribe.

looked at as one of the peculiarities of The Harmonia is another club the place. The best are the Elbe ($ 40), partaking of a literary as Pavilion, and the Schweitzer Paviwell as mercantile character.

lion. The charitable institutions of Hamburg had once the misforHamburg are on a most munificent tune to be a fortified town, and in scale. The Orphan Asylum pro- consequence was subjected to the vides for 600 children, who are horrors of a siege from the French, received as infants, reared, educated, and was twice occupied by their and bound apprentices to armies, who, under Davoust in 1813, useful trade. The Great Hospital exercised the most cruel severities in the suburb of St. George is ca- and atrocities upon the inhabitants. pable of containing from 4000 to The Rumparts no longer exist, being 5000 sick. The yearly cost of sup- levelled and converted into delightporting this admirable institution is ful boulevards or gardens, neatly laid nearly 17,0001. Its utility is not out, which extend nearly round the confined to the poor alone, as even town, and between the Two Alster persons of the higher classes resort basins. A most pleasing view of to the hospital to avail themselves the town and river, the shipping and of the advantages of the excellent opposite shore of the Elbe, presents medical treatment which they may itself from the eminence at the exhere obtain. Such patients are ad tremity of these walks 'nearest to mitted as lodgers on payment of a Altona, called the Stintfang. sum varying from 8d. to 88. a day. Outside the Damm Gate is the The House in which Klopstock the public cemetery, which deserves a poet lived thirty years and died, is visit, as exhibiting the customs and No. 232 in the Konigsstrassé. usages of Germany with regard to

Ræding's Museum is a collection the resting-place of the dead ($ 41). of odds and ends, with some real The merchants of Hamburg are curiosities, where half an hour may celebrated for their hospitality and be spent when there is nothing bet- the goodness of their dinners, as all ter to do.

strangers can testify who are well The Jungfersteig (Maiden's Walk) introduced. It is customary to give is a broad walk, by the side of a vails to servants in private houses; basin of water formed by damming -they expect at least two marcs from up the river Alster. It is the fa. each visiter. 'The English residents shionable promenade, especially re- here are very numerous, and their sorted to in the summer evenings, language is almost universally underwhen the surface of the water is stood even by the Germans. They covered with gaily painted boats are about to erect a church for them. filled with water · parties. It is selves, of which the foundation was flanked by handsome rows of new laid in 1836. At present the English houses. At the water-side are the service is performed in a temporary two most frequented cafés in the building. A British Consul and vice town. There are floating baths on consul reside here. the Alster.

Hackney coaches, called Droskies, The New Thealre is one of the ply for hire in all the principal largest in Germany, and the per- thoroughfares of the town. They formances and music generally very are good and cheap. Any distance good. The play begins at six and within the town costs about 8d., and usually ends before ten. The public if hired by the hour the charge is vall-rooms in and about the town, 1s. 6d.

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Environs. It is a very pleasant hither to walk in the gardens of the drive to descend the right bank of Schloss, and enjoy the amusements the Elbe from Altona to Blankenese. of waltzing and music. Tycho The slopes bordering on the river Brahe the astronomer, and Voss the are studded with country-seats of poet, resided here. merchants, and possess considerable In 1813, the French, under Marnatural beauty. Between Hamburg shal Davoust, threw wooden and Altona lies a sort of neutral bridge: 15,000 feet long, over the ground, a narrow strip of about half Elbe to the Hanoverian shore, or a mile, called Hamburgerburg, oc- rather, united the islands by a series cupied by low taverns and dancing- of bridges which lasted till 1818. rooms; in fact, a sort of Wapping, Their place is now supplied by a extending to the gate of Altona, steamer, which runs twice a day in where the 'uniform of the sentinel about an hour and a half between and the Danish coat of arms mark Hamburg and Haarburg. the frontier of Holstein. At the Schnellposts go five times a week further end of Altona is the suburb to Berlin. of Ottonsee, where the brave Duke Three times a week to Hanover of Brunswick died, in 1806, from the and Bremen wound he had received in the battle of Jena, In the churchyard, by

ROUTE LVII. the side of the road, and under an umbrageous elm, is the tomb of

HAMBURG TO LUBEC, Klopstock, author of the “Messiah.” by Schønberg Germ.=381 Engo Here is also a monument to the lish miles; by Oldeslohe 9. Germ. 1138 Hamburgers, who perished in =463 English miles. 1813-14 during the siege and occu

The road is one of the worst in pation of Hamburg by the French. Europe, and has been pronounced a Further on the right is Rainville's disgrace to any civilized country. It tavern and garden, overlooking the is nothing but a track marked by Elte. The house itself was inha- wheels in the deep sand, which is 'bited successively by Dumourier and here and there interspersed with Bourrienne. The view is fine, the large boulder stones. The selfish "cuisine very tolerable, and in fine policy of the king of Denmark keeps summer afternoons very respectable it in its present execrable condition, company repair hither to dine or in the hope of compelling travellers take coffee. Booth's nursery gar

and goods to pass through the Sound, dens, near Wandsbeck, contain where they must pay toll to him. many choice and rare flowers. The Failing in this, it is his wish to make amateur of horticulture will do Kiel, a town of his own dominion, wisely in purchasing seeds of stocks, the port of embarkation on the way wall-flowers, &c., which are brought to St. Petersburg, in preference to to singular perfection here. At Blan- Lubec, which would cause a useless kenese, about six miles from Ham- detour and loss of time to travellers burg, Mr. Bauer's pleasure-grounds, | going from Hamburg. It is believed thrown open to the public on Thurs- that a remonstrance from the Emdays and Sundays, are a common peror of Russia is likely soon to put resort of the cockneys of Hamburg. an end to this nuisance, and that the

In an opposite direction, about, road will forthwith be macadamized. three miles from Hamburg, 'lies the As it is, though the distance is only village of Wandsbeck, in a very pretty

38 miles, it forms, stoppages insituation. Every Sunday and holy- cluded, a long day's journey, of 10 day it overflows with visiters from or 12 hours, the more tedious because Hamburg of all classes, who repair the country is uninteresting. There

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